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Cartier opens new Sydney flagship boutique – here are 3 watches to check out Time+Tide
Cartier opens new Sydney flagship Nov 24, 2022

Cartier opens new Sydney flagship boutique – here are 3 watches to check out

Cartier is, at least in my opinion, the hottest watch brand right now. Whether it’s the Cartier Crash London that sold for over US$1M, Tyler, The Creator’s recent flex of his armful of vintage and modern references from the storied brand, or the fact that the general consensus of the watch media at Watches & … ContinuedThe post Cartier opens new Sydney flagship boutique – here are 3 watches to check out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Chronographs at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe made Nov 24, 2022

Highlights: Chronographs at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition SJX Watches
Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin Nov 23, 2022

Hands-On: Piaget x Phillips Altiplano Origin China Edition

Descended from Piaget’s ultra-thin dress watches that first emerged six decades ago, the Altiplano is the brand’s quintessential dress watch in the modern day. Minimalist and refined, the Altiplano is pared back, legible, and well-proportioned – not to mention very thin – as expected from a brand that launched its first ultra-thin watch in 1957. The latest addition to the ultra-thin lineup is the 21-piece limited edition that emerged from a collaboration between Piaget and auctioneers Phillips, the Altiplano Origin China Special Limited Edition. It will be available only at Piaget boutiques in China with the exception of the prototype numbered “00/21” that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale on November 28. Initial thoughts Ordinarily found with a conservative and somewhat plain silver dial, the Altiplano gets a major makeover with a lacquered green dial paired with pink gold hands and indices that liven up its usual monochromatic look. It’s clearly a dress watch yet manages to stand out against all the other dress watches. That said, the dial is almost perfect, but not quite – the date window with a white date disc looks out of place. I would have preferred the dial to do away with the date altogether. The case remains the same as the standard model with a wearable and modern size of 40 mm matched with a thinness of just 6.36 mm that’s further enhanced by the slim lugs. Its height, or lack thereof, is thanks to the cal. 1205P, among the...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 23, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Christie’s Hong Kong Auction

Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph “JPS” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 23, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”

Having just announced a limited edition with a gold case and semiprecious stone dial, TAG Heuer has debuted another all-gold Carrera, the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”. It features an 18k yellow gold case matched with a black-and-gold dial inspired by the 1158 CHN chronograph of the 1970s, a colour combination better known as the “JPS”. That’s is short for John Player Special, a cigarette brand that sponsored the Lotus Formula 1 team in the 1970s. Its brand colours were black and gold, which was also the paintwork for the Lotus race cars. That led to the “JPS” label for the Rolex Daytona in the same colours, though the nickname has since been applied to sports chronographs in the same livery. Initial thoughts The Carrera “JPS” is essentially the same model that’s usually seen in steel, but now given a luxe makeover with a gold case and “JPS” dial. In typical Carrera style it opts for a two-counter look with a “ghost” seconds at six, resulting in a vintage vibe although the case is a very modern and slightly chunky 42 mm in diameter. But the new Carrera really is all about the dial, which is no doubt meant to evoke what is now a million-dollar watch. While the market for vintage Daytonas has plateaued or even declined since its peak four years ago, the Daytona “JPS” has continued to sell for large sums, with a handful crossing the million-dollar mark over the past year. Besides the rarity of the model, the value also reflects the intrinsic appe...

12 "Cheap" Watches That Look More Expensive Than They Are Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 22, 2022

12 "Cheap" Watches That Look More Expensive Than They Are

There are a lot of cheap watches out there, and to be honest, many of them look the part. Making a watch that is inexpensive enough to appeal to a broad audience yet also capable of impressing a discerning watch enthusiast with its build quality, finishing, movement, and design is a challenging task for even the most experienced and resourceful of watch manufacturers. The brands and models we spotlight below, in our humble opinion, successfully tread the line between entry-level value (prices range from under $100 to just shy of $600) and noteworthy quality and aesthetics.  Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price: $65, Reference: A168GW-9VT, Case Size: 38.6mm x 36.3mm, Case Height: 9.6mm, Crystal: Resin Glass, Water Resistance: Water-Resistant, Movement: Quartz Digital While its most iconic contribution to the watch world is undoubtedly the mega-popular G-Shock, Japan’s Casio offers different styles of digital timekeeping in its retro-influenced Vintage series, the most “expensive-looking” of which is this gold-toned model with a rectangular resin case, a stainless steel bracelet, and an electro-luminescent backlit display screen. The watch features an array of useful functions including a 1/100-second stopwatch with elapsed times and split times, daily alarms, hourly time signals, an auto-calendar, and timekeeping options in both 12-hour and 24-hour format. Best of all, this combination of high functionality and gilded flair can be had for under $70. Scurfa Diver O...

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph is now available in 38mm Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph Nov 22, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph is now available in 38mm

Hamilton is an industry leader for watch cameos in film. Their timepieces have been interwoven into many silver screen narratives, with recent Christopher Nolan movies like Interstellar and Tenet a prime example of a watch not just simply being placed on an actor, but also a core element and story device of the plot as well. In Interstellar, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph is now available in 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 22, 2022

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...

Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit Time+Tide
Nov 21, 2022

Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit

Back in August we covered the idea of a “negative leap second“, in which, due to the record short day lengths a backward leap second may need to be instituted to reconcile time. At the time I thought the subject was done and dusted, as scientists did not believe any alarms needed to be rang … ContinuedThe post Australia is ready to vote to ditch the leap second at upcoming Paris summit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Does the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck 传承 offer the most hypnotising dial of the year? Time+Tide
Atelier Wen Nov 21, 2022

Does the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck 传承 offer the most hypnotising dial of the year?

After the wildly successful launch of Atelier Wen’s first batch of their handmade guilloché-dialled Perception, the brand is collaborating with Austen Chu of Wristcheck and @horoloupe fame. Cased in a grade 5 titanium case and sporting a gorgeous jade green dial, the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck edition carries the “传承” name, which stands for “New … ContinuedThe post Does the Atelier Wen Perception Wristcheck 传承 offer the most hypnotising dial of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads Time+Tide
Nov 21, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads

Trafford are shaping up to be a brand who are impossible to pin down, but if their releases continue the trend of happy surprises then we can only hope that never stops. Their first watch was a chronograph dedicated to 20th Century racing drivers-turned-spies, and their second watch is this new Crossroads. Despite a British … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2 Time+Tide
Laco s classic chronograph returns Nov 20, 2022

Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2

As one of the clear leaders of German-made pilot’s watches, Laco’s chronograph releases are few and far between. While the flieger essentials Type A and Type B get lots of attention – an archetype that Laco summited with their customisable Flieger PRO – the chronographs of the German air force were far less common but … ContinuedThe post Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable Time+Tide
Nov 19, 2022

Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable

Platinum is the acceptable form of heavy metal. The reason for this isn’t just down to the lack of spandex trousers and apocalyptic imagery. It’s simply hard not to be seduced by a platinum watch. Here is the ultimate stealth-wealth material that visually offers the discretion of stainless-steel. And yet pick up a watch like … ContinuedThe post Platinum status: The psychological reason why we think heavy watches are more valuable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s dearer than your Nov 18, 2022

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters

It’ll be no surprise to you to hear that another rapper has been on record showing off their watch collection. Tyler, The Creator, however, is no ordinary rapper. His collection doesn’t include iced-out Rolexes and Patek Philippes dearer than your first-born, no. The Californian’s tastes lie in a brand that’s seen an incredible resurgence in … ContinuedThe post Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Doppel 38 SJX Watches
IWC three decades ago Now Nov 18, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Doppel 38

Habring² has scaled down its signature split-seconds chronograph to create the Doppel 38, which retains all of the key features of the original but in a more compact case. Still having the “bullhead” pusher layout that characterises the split-seconds chronographs of Habring², the Doppel 38 is smaller and thinner than its predecessor, but continues to be powered by the proprietary hand-wound A11R calibre. Initial thoughts Long one of the best values in terms of sub-US$10,000 chronographs, the Doppel is perhaps the archetypal Habring² watch since it’s descended from the complication Mr Habring invented at IWC three decades ago. Now vastly improved and refined by Mr Habring, the Doppel possibly the most accessible split-seconds chronograph on the market – in itself a major point of appeal. But the original Doppel was 42 mm, not massive but large enough to make someone who prefers smaller watches think twice. Personally I thought the larger Doppel was sized well for its particular type of complication, but the Doppel 38 is unexpectedly compact, especially at just 11.5 mm high. Beyond making it more wearable for more people, the new dimensions will no doubt give the Doppel 38 a slightly more retro feel, although the dial styles on offer are thoroughly modern. And it remains affordable as such things go, with a retail price of about US$7,900 before taxes. A value-proposition split-seconds Like many of the recent watches from the brand, the Doppel 38 is simple in sty...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1463 “Tasti Tondi” Nov 18, 2022

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction

With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...

My top five picks from the Ineichen Complications auction Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Breguet Nov 18, 2022

My top five picks from the Ineichen Complications auction

The auctions at Ineichen never disappoint and, on December 3, that track record continues. Because on that day, at 2pm CET, bidding will begin for their Complications: Dates & Calendars auction. Fifty lots of some of the most complicated and beautiful watches from storied brands like Vacheron Constantin, Breguet and JLC. So much complicated goodness that … ContinuedThe post My top five picks from the Ineichen Complications auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.