Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero C.01 x Collective
A new version of the El Primero, for a new kind of watch club.
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Hodinkee
Revolution
Gift from the Stars: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3
In between major technical breakthroughs, Jaeger-LeCoultre decides to dress its Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 with slivers from the stars.
Revolution
A. Lange & Söhne: Greater Than the Sum of its Parts
Wei Koh spends some quality time with Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne at the Hampton Court Concours d’Elegance.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): And The Moon Takes It
The 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Calendar and Astronomy category is for mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication. And this year all six watches have strong chances at the prize. Our panel isn't unanimous in selecting a winner, but close to it: the moon wins!
Revolution
The Tonneau: 10 Barrel-shaped Watches
Neither a round or square, the tonneau watch remains a popular, stylish option, proving curvy is sexy.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar
Having been one of the first brands to work with watch customiser Bamford Watch Department, Zenith has one gone one further with the Chronomaster El Primero Radar. Featuring a striking aesthetic reminiscent of the 1970s, it was designed by Bamford for Zenith, and will only be available at the watchmaker’s boutiques. In short, it is an official boutique edition designed by a former aftermarket customiser. Bamford Watch Department was founded by George Bamford, an entrepreneur who made a name for himself selling customised watches and clothing, but who also happens to be the son of a construction equipment tycoon. His watch division made its name customising Rolex watches, but has now become the official customiser for Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Bulgari, all companies of luxury conglomerate LVMH. According to Zenith, the red and brown livery of Chronomaster El Primero Radar was inspired by a 1916 pocket watch Mr Bamford spotted during a visit to Zenith’s factory in Le Locle. Mr Bamford used that to create the “retro-futuristic aesthetic” of the El Primero Radar. The dial is a graduated brown, while the sub-dial at three has five hashmarks that are the “negative of the [Zenith logo of a] star”, according to Mr Bamford. Dial aside the watch is identical to the standard Chronomaster El Primero, with a 42mm steel case that contains the El Primero 400 B movement. Key facts and price Chronomaster El Primero Radar (ref. 03.2082.400/02.R830) Diameter: 42mm Heigh...
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Creating The Iconic Enamel Dial Of The Patek Philippe Ref. 2526
An inside look at a special enamel dial and the modern artisans looking to recreate its original charm.
Quill & Pad
A Reader Asks: Should I Buy A Steel Rolex Daytona With Cerachrom Bezel (At Double The Retail Price)?
We recently received a message from a reader considering buying a stainless steel Rolex Daytona with ceramic bezel. He seems to have found a nice piece, box and papers, unworn, at a (seemingly) reasonable price. However, he asks, is it sensible to buy at double the retail price?
Time+Tide
Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow
Editor’s note: OK, yes, it seems as though every time you scroll through Instagram these days, it’s highly probable that your feed will be inundated with myriad “rainbow” bejewelled-bezel timepieces. And whether you’re for or against them, there’s no denying it – these bedazzled technicolour flex watches are firmly solidified in the zeitgeist of current … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is This Really About Precision?
The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's 2019 Chronometry category awards mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Our panel clearly wishes that there were more empirical evidence for the claims of high precision and is split on the winner. What's your favorite?
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Hamilton Pilot Pioneer Mechanical
Hamilton revives a British classic, first made for the RAF.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite
When Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Gyrotourbillon in 2004, it was an incredibly exciting watch, and arguably marked the high water mark of Jaeger-LeCoultre as a maker of contemporary complications. Fifteen years on, the Gyrotourbillon has cycled through many iterations, most more complex or sophisticated than the original but none quite as revelatory. Variants include the compact and slightly more affordable Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon and the more recent Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetuel. The latest to join the line-up is the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite, which is a third generation model dressed up with fired enamel, meteorite and aventurine. The chronograph sub-dial and digital counter are at nine o’clock, with the day-night display at three One of the most complicated versions of the Gyrotourbillon, the Gyrotourbillon 3 combines the double-axis tourbillon with a single-button chronograph with digital, instantaneous 60-minute counter as well as a day and night display. The tourbillon features two spherical , aluminium cages containing a cylindrical hairspring in the centre. The cages rotate in opposing directions and at a different rates, working to eliminate the gravitational errors caused by the changing position of the wearer’s wrist. And more importantly, it’s a compelling visual spectacle on the idea. Space rock and artisanal craft The sub-dial for the time at 12 o’clock features a meteorite centre ringed by an ...
Quill & Pad
Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier: One Of The Best Australian Reds
The top six Aussie reds? Ken Gargett thinks that most lists would include Penfolds Grange, Henschke Hill of Grace, and Bass Philip Reserve Pinot Noir, though such is its rarity (and price) that it tends to be more talked about than tasted. But there's one under-the-radar wine from the Canberra area that should also be on that list: Clonakilla's sensational Shiraz Viognier.
Revolution
The Greatest Watch You’ve Never Heard Of: Longines Nonius
The Longines Nonius was a valiant attempt in the late 1960s to crack the elusive puzzle of making the chronograph ever-more accurate.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer
Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a super in-depth breakdown of 2019’s most controversial watch
This week, the Chopard Alpine Eagle was released, marking a brand new collection from Chopard, their first in decades. It revives the design of their first ever sports watch, and the brand’s first ever steel watch. Based on the St. Moritz from 1980, the Alpine Eagle features the same stainless steel case and integrated bracelet, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a super in-depth breakdown of 2019’s most controversial watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The MB&F; HM9 'Flow' Red Gold
Honoring the Golden Age of automotive and aircraft design with a gold case.
Deployant
Review: High Stakes - The Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the roulette-themed Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino in rose gold, first unveiled in Baselworld 2019.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked In Black Ceramic
One of the hottest watches on the planet just got even hotter.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 “One-Off” in Platinum
With this year being the 50th anniversary of its defining movement, Zenith has unveiled several limited editions to mark the occasion, including a three-piece set and a remake of the El Primero A386 in 18k gold. Now the ultimate anniversary watch has just been announced: the one-of-a-kind El Primero A386 in platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, and a 50-year warranty. This one-off watch – it’s marked as such on the case back – was designed in collaboration with Phillips, the auctioneer led by Livia Russo and Aurel Bacs. And the watch will be sold by Phillips in November, with all proceeds going to a Swiss charity that helps children with cancer. It’s the first ever El Primero in platinum, and also the first with a lapis lazuli dial. Commenting in the announcement, Zenith chief executive Julien Tornare states unequivocally: “This will be the first and sole El Primero in platinum.” Materials aside, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard A386 remake. The case is 38mm, fitted with sapphire crystals front and back, while the movement is the El Primero 400. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Material: Platinum Water resistance: 50m Dial: Lapis lazuli Movement: El Primero 400 Functions: Time, chronograph, date Frequency: 36,000bph, or 5Hz Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 50 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Price and availability The Zenith El Primero A386 in platinum will be sold at the Geneva Watch Auction: X that takes place on November 9-10, 2019. It has n...
Revolution
The Creation of the Valjoux/ETA 7750
A young team headed by a 24-year-old movement specialist pulled off a technological coup that resulted in the robust, low-cost, ubiquitous Valjoux/ETA 7750.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The GPHG Chronograph category is interesting this year thanks to the mix of the old and the new, including a brand-new futuristic material in one and a record-breaking thinness in another. Our jury is split on choosing a winner, but not quite split down the middle.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Maria & Richard Habring To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The independent watchmakers will discuss designing and producing proprietary watch movements.
Revolution
At the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition with Thierry Stern
Revolution Founder Wei Koh speaks to Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern about the motivations behind the travelling Patek Philippe Watch Art Exhibition.
Revolution
The Revolution Guide to the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition
Your definitive guide to the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition 2019 in Singapore Marina Bay Sands from September 28 to October 13.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: The Rarest G-Shock
Jack looks into the G-Shock's past with some insight from the visionary behind the original model.
Quill & Pad
What Makes Up The Soul Of A Watch: A Contemplation (With Beautiful Imagery) - Reprise
Why watches? Ask what makes a watch enthusiast tick and the idea of the “soul” of a watch might well feature in the response – the idea that something elevates the watch from a cold object of engineering to something of greater import. Here Ryan Schmidt tracks "soul" down and gets contemplative on its nature along with some very special imagery.
Deployant
The new Tutima Flieger Automatic in green
While the brand has moved into the realms of haute horologerie with minute repeaters, in-house chronograph movements, top-grade finishing, it also retains an accessible collection. The Flieger Automatic is one such watch.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Creating Future Icons Or Rewarding Existing Ones?
The GPHG Iconic category is for watches entered as “men’s or ladies watches from an emblematic collection that has exercised a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years.” Our panel is split, but has a clear favorite. Is it also yours?
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Singapore 2019 Ref. 5531R
Originally introduced in 2017 for the Grand Exhibition in New York, the Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R was the first minute repeater that could chime the local time, as opposed to a conventional world-time repeater that would only strike the home time. The reference then entered regular production in 2018 with a cloisonné enamel of Lake Geneva, or the lac Léman as locals know it, a recurring motif on Patek Philippe enamel watches. Patek Philippe has now unveiled a special-edition version for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition 2019 in Singapore, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the city centre of Singapore, along with the country’s name listed on the city disc in place of Beijing. It joins the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R as one of the grand complications created especially for the event. As was always the case, the watch is in red gold and measures 40.2mm wide. it features hand-guillochéd, hobnail pattern on the case band as well as on the repeater slide on the left. In it is the self-winding cal. R 27 HU which features the patented repeater mechanism that chimes the time of the city at the 12 o’clock position on the world time mechanism. While a minute repeater usually operates independently from the world time and thus chimes only the home time, the two mechanisms in this case are mechanically coupled. The hour snail of the repeater is continuously driven by the time zone wheel of the world time mechanism. ...