Quill & Pad
Tennis And Watches: A 2019 Resumé Of The White Sport’s Ticks And Tocks
Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the exploding juxtaposition between watches and tennis so far in 2019, taking stock of who's sponsoring what and why.
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Quill & Pad
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Rock And The 3 Timer Rock Gold (Live Pics & Pricing)
The same rugged looks, but a very different business.
Revolution
Introducing the RM 50-04 Manual Winding Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen
Richard Mille introduces the RM 50-04 Manual Winding Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen powered by the calibre RM 50-03
SJX Watches
G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium
A year after Casio debuted the G-Shock “Full Metal” in stainless steel with a matching bracelet – and the whopper in solid 18k yellow gold – it has announced the G-Shock 5000 Series in titanium. The new launch is not a limited edition per se, but will only be produced for a limited time. Like last year’s “Full Metal” edition, the G-Shock GMW-B5000TB takes its cues from the original G-Shock DW5000 of 1983, but in matte black titanium with gold accents. But more intriguingly, the titanium case and bracelet are coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC) that has a granular finish meant to mimic the look of the rubber case of the standard G-Shock. The use of titanium means the new G-Shock is significantly lighter than the steel equivalent, weighing just 110g – a third less than the G-Shock “Full Metal”. And the G-Shock in titanium has a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, an upgrade over the mineral glass found on the steel version. Function-wise the G-Shock titanium edition is identical to the steel model. It’s solar-powered and incorporates a world time, stopwatch and alarm, as well as Bluetooth connectivity to a smartphone with the G-Shock app. An additional all-titanium G-Shock with a laser-engraved camouflage motif, the model GMW-B5000TCM-1, has been leaked online, but not yet announced officially. It will likely be launched later in the year. Key facts Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium with DLC coating Water resistance:...
Time+Tide
MY WEEK WITH: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, and how I got completely turned around to loving it
When it came up that a review of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato was on the editorial agenda, Felix cocked an eyebrow and said, “Are you going to write about your reaction when you first saw it?” Yes, I thought, when the time comes, I will. So here we are. The day that I first laid eyes … ContinuedThe post MY WEEK WITH: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, and how I got completely turned around to loving it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Insider View: Industry status and major Trends
We will begin to carry the monthly Luxury Industry Performance Index by Dr. Frank Muller, CEO of TBTL, and special correspondent to Deployant writes.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Badger Islander Wristwatch
Badger Watches makes it debut on Kickstarter with the Islander, an automatic wristwatch with an interesting tonneau-shaped case. While most tonneau cases are made up of multiple curved lines, the Islander case is composed of several straight lines and flat surfaces, giving it a slightly 1970s vibe. The brand is based in Singapore – a city-state that’s an island – which is where the model name comes from. Affordable watches like the Islander usually work best if most of the effort is concentrated on one element; here the focus is undoubtedly the case. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 48mm long, the case is steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’s stamped from a block of steel, giving it softer edges and corners than if it were milled, but with a price tag of under US$400 that’s more than enough. Four dial colours are available, including one in silver with blue accents that’s a 99-piece limited edition. With only minimal text on the edge, the dials have the same stamped radial motif, along with tapered hands reminiscent of the Marc Newson-designed Ikepod watches. The date window is placed at six o’clock to maintain the symmetry of the dial. The Islander is powered by a Sellita SW200-1, which is a clone of the ETA 2824. A low-cost but robust movement, the SW200 has a shortish 38-hour power reserve. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Height: 11mm Material: Steel Water resistance: 50m Movement: SW200-1 Functions: Hours, minutes, and second; date W...
Time+Tide
Sun’s out, guns out: 3 ace watches to kick off the summer vibes
Yes, we’re somewhat getting ahead of ourselves here, but with the abject misery of Australia’s particularly dismal winter now in the rearview mirror, it’s time to start thinking about ideal summer watches. What’s more, thanks to the land of Oz perpetually being six months behind the Northern Hemisphere’s summer style, we’ve already got a pretty … ContinuedThe post Sun’s out, guns out: 3 ace watches to kick off the summer vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch
One of Switzerland’s most important timepiece museums, the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), is raising funds with a limited edition, rising hours wristwatch that’s both cleanly styled and affordable. Arriving some 14 years after the first, minimalist MIH watch created by independent watchmakers Ludwig Oechslin and Paul Gerber, the MIH Gaïa watch, named after the annual Gaïa Prize given out by the MIH, is the result of a collaboration between watch industry suppliers located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the hometown of the MIH. The MIH Gaïa watch will be crowdfunded, and a minimum number of orders will be needed for it to enter production. Importantly, the MIH Gaïa watch is priced at about US$2400, half what the original MIH watch with an annual calendar cost about a decade ago, making it a compelling value proposition. A local collaboration Each aspect of the watch, from design to the case, was the work of a local supplier. Some are little known outside the industry, like buckle maker Cornu & Cie, while others are famous – the dial was made by Jean Singer & Cie, best known for the dials it made for Rolex and Patek Philippe in the mid 20th century. Slightly bowl-shaped, the case of the watch is inspired by the MIH building, while the domed dial is inspired by the spherical Gaïa Prize trophy. Time is indicated on two discs: rising hours in a window at 12 o’clock, and the the minutes on a disc just below. It’s a classically sized timepiece...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique
Audemars Piguet’s latest watch for ladies is an elegant complication, or more specifically, a simplification with a twist. Inspired by a wristwatch from the 1980s, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique has only a single hand for the hours, and nothing else. But the hour hand doesn’t travel in a circle, instead it traces the oval shape of the case. Single-handed pocket watches already existed in the 18th century, when the precise time was not a concern for most people. But Audemars Piguet revived the concept in 1982 with the original Philosophique, a one-handed wristwatch styled like a pocket watch, with its crown at 12 o’clock. Though it was a men’s watch, the original Philosophique is tiny by modern standards, measuring just 32mm in diameter, making it significantly smaller than today’s Millenary Philosophique for ladies. Available in white or pink gold, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique features a striking, contrast case finish of granular “frosted gold” and mirror-polished surfaces. Inspired by Florentine jewellery, the frosted surface is achieved by hand, with a sharp tool that creates tiny indentations on the gold. The dial is finished with an irregular “hammer-like” surface, echoing the case decoration. But more intriguing than the decoration is the trajectory of the hour hand. Instead of travelling in a circle, the hour hand follows an elliptical path, tracing the outline of the oval Millenary case. This is possible because the hour...
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous!
With our second set of predictions we take a look at the Ladies Complication category, a surprisingly packed collection of timepieces for women with more than an added moon phase or power reserve. These are very clearly designed to be different, and while we are collectively pretty sure one already has the win in the bag, it will definitely be an interesting category for the judges this year. Our panel was unanimous in its selection of one very beautiful and cleverly complex timepiece.
Hodinkee
The Value Proposition: The Montblanc Heritage GMT
A classic travel watch that ticks all the right boxes.
Deployant
Review: In With the New - The Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G
As the Ref. 5170 is put to retirement, we bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G.
Revolution
A History of the Dive Watch
In the unforgiving depths under the sea, the dive watch has but one function: to determine when you must turn back, or never at all.
SJX Watches
Habring² Introduces the Salmon Collection
Austrian watchmaker Habring2, highly regarded for its smart, affordable watches, has just revealed the Salmon collection. The new line-up is made up of all of the brand’s key models, but with each watch now offered with a salmon dial. Once found occasionally on vintage watches and now a popular shade for that reason, salmon dials are a novelty for Habring2, led by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. The brand typically offers its watches in more straightforward shades of silver, blue, black or grey. The salmon colour Habring2 opted for is a strong pink, closer to salmon than copper or pink gold. Here are a few photos of the watches “in the metal” supplied by the Habrings to show how the salmon dials vary in tone depending on the light. The top of the line model is the Perpetual Doppel, recently launched to mark the brand’s 15thanniversary. Its salmon dial is combined with silvered numerals and blued steel hands, the only model in the Salmon collection with heat-blued hands. The range also includes the entry-level, time-only Felix as well as the single-button Chrono-Felix. Both measure only 38.5mm in diameter, and are also the amongst the thinnest watches made by Habring2. And the more complicated models are the Doppel Felix split-seconds chronograph with its “bullhead” pusher layout, and the inventive COS Felix. Short for “crown operated system”, the COS chronograph is activated entirely via the crown, which is turned either forwards o...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248
Grand Seiko has something of a reputation for finely finished understatement. This watch is, well, a little extra. That’s not to say that the Grand Seiko SBGE248 isn’t as finely finished as you’d expect, it’s just that, thanks to its popping blue and gold colourway, this Grand Seiko isn’t under anyone’s radar. Which, honestly, is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Blue, gold and oh-so-bold, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces the Regatta Countdown Chronograph
A Swiss brand now owned by Citizen Watch of Japan, Frederique Constant excels at complications in an affordable and reasonable manner, and now it has added the Regatta Countdown Chronograph to its repertoire. Unlike many yachting watches that are often over-designed with nautical details – think pennants and lots of colours – Frederique Constant has kept its regatta chronograph clean. Priced a bit over US$3000, the Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown has two key elements: central chronograph seconds hand and five circular apertures lined up under 12 o’clock. The apertures function as a 5- or 10-minute regatta countdown timer; this records the time just before the start of a race when yachts position themselves for the best spot at the starting line. When the chronograph is inactive, the apertures show white discs. Once started with the pusher at two o’clock, the apertures turn blue one by one, with each aperture representing one elapsed minute. After five minutes, and five blue apertures, the five-minute countdown to the race begins. The apertures progressively change from showing blue to orange, again at the rate of one a minute. The dials – blue or silver – are straightforward, apart from the countdown windows, and decorated with a hobnail guilloche. Luminous hands match the luminous baton hour markers. Rated to 100m, the case is steel (or gold-plated steel), and 42mm in diameter. Notably, it’s fitted with an upscale, “box-type” sapphire crystal that has ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark
The brand celebrates New Zealand's All Blacks with a rare limited edition.
Hodinkee
Business News: TAG Heuer Announces It Will Be Title And Timing Partner Of The Porsche Formula E Team
Two icons reconnect in what may be the future of motorsports.
Deployant
Chill out TGIF: Portraits with the Leica SL + Summilux-SL 50MM F/1.4 ASPH
We took the Leica SL + Summilux SL 50mm f/1.4 ASPH out for a spin at two events we attended, and present the portraits. Also a mini-interveiw with Moser.
Revolution
Automatic Chronographs of the 21st Century
It’s been 50 years since the first automatic integrated chronograph was created. Here’s what’s been developing since then.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The NOMOS Metro 33 In Rose Gold
The latest gold NOMOS, in an old-school size, with an in-house movement.
Revolution
The Watch Face: Dive Watch Dials
Delve into the history of dial design and the elements that make up some of the most famous watch faces of our time. In this part: dive watch dials.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
Welcome to Quill & Pad’s predictions for the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Ladies category in which the team picks favorites and explains why. Our panel isn't unanimous, but does have a clear favorite in this category. Read on to find out which watch should succeed here!
Revolution
Walking The Ultra-Thin Line: The Audemars Piguet RD#2
The Audemars Piguet RD#2, the brand’s record-breaking prototype, is now available in a production version as the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5
Apple’s introduction of its latest watch includes the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, essentially the smartwatch plus an Hermes leather strap and watch faces exclusive to the Hermes edition. Amongst other incremental improvements, the new Apple Watch has an “always-on” face that dims when you turn away, instead of going dark as on the previous generation of the watch – and it’s achieved without comprising the 18-hour battery life. And the standard Series 5 is also available in a variety of case materials, including the usual steel or aluminium, as well as ceramic for the more upscale versions. For the first time, brushed titanium is also a case option. The Single Tour strap with the Della Cavalleria motif on the lower half of the strap The luxury of Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, on the other hand, is dictated only in two case styles: Space Black and polished steel, each in either 40mm or 44mm sizes. The 40mm cases are available either with a standard length, “Single Tour” strap, or an extra-long “Double Tour” strap. Both styles of straps are a combination of colours – a solid shade and a printed motif taken from the Hermes “Della Cavalleria” scarf. Double Tour The Space Black is actually a steel with a black coating, and it’s matched with a sleek, all-black dial and matte black strap for a sleek look that is very much unlike the usual smartwatch. Price and availability The Apple Watch Hermès Series 5 with Single Tour strap is priced at ...
SJX Watches
Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age
Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...
Deployant
New: A. Lange & Söhne The LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE “25th Anniversary”
The ninth of ten new Lange 1 for this year celebrating the 25th Anniversary is the LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE “25th Anniversary”. Details here.
Revolution
Introducing the TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 The Hour Glass Edition
TAG Heuer adds to the list of watches created to celebrate the 40th anniversary of renowned Singapore retailer with the Monaco Calibre 11 The Hour Glass Edition.
SJX Watches
Raketa Introduces the Copernicus, the Soviet Space Watch Remake
Produced in the 1980s, the Raketa Kopernik was a nod to the Soviet Union’s space exploration, a Soviet Moon watch of sorts. The hour hand took the form of a golden disc, representing the Sun, while the minute hand was the Moon, taking the form of a large ring. Once an hour the Sun and Moon hands would overlap for an eclipse on the wrist. Named after Nicolaus Copernicus, the Kopernik was imaginatively designed but a typical Soviet-era timepiece in terms of quality. Now Raketa has recreated the original design as the Copernicus wristwatch, which is still made in Russia but boasting upgraded fit and finish. The rocket factory Raketa is Russian for “rocket”, and it is a brand of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in St Petersburg. Founded in 1721 as a stoneware manufacturer, the factory has produced watches since the second world war. Now run by its owners – an Englishman and a Frenchman – Raketa produces has a vertically integrated factory as well as an online store. The Raketa Copernicus has an abstract dial with the Sun and Moon hands against an off-centred sphere that represents the Earth. And it has a graduated colour that goes from dark blue to black, evoking the darkness of outer space. The Copernicus has a steel case – either black-coated or polished – that’s 40.5mm in diameter and a thick 12mm high. It’s fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and mineral glass on the back. Inside is the cal. 2615 automatic movement that is derived from a Sovie...