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Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #24 “Nautilus Knowledge” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Oct 22, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #24 “Nautilus Knowledge”

With the recent drop of novelties from Patek Philippe and the unveiling of the successor to the Nautilus ref. 5711: the 5811/1G, we decided now is the perfect time for a bit of Nautilus trivia courtesy of the Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword. See how you fare below.The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #24 “Nautilus Knowledge” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap Time+Tide
IWC collaborate Oct 22, 2022

IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap

Brand collaborations are becoming almost as popular now as vintage dive-watch reissues, so much so that the phenomenon now extends to straps as well as watches. Although it may seem a little ridiculous at first, anything which motivates watch companies to become more creative and branch out from the norms is a great thing in … ContinuedThe post IWC collaborate with Mr Sabotage on special-edition camouflage strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X5 Powered by Kenissi SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Oct 22, 2022

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X5 Powered by Kenissi

Historically reliant on ETA and Sellita, Bell & Ross is employing Kenissi movements for the first time in the BR-X5. Though evidently evolved from the BR05, the BR-X5 is endowed with a more complex, modular case. That, in addition to the high-spec Kenissi movement, means the BR-X5 is the new flagship sports watch for Bell & Ross (B&R;). Initial thoughts The BR-X5 is very much typical B&R; in terms of aesthetics with its squarish bezel secured by screws and legible dial. In fact, it is easy to mistake this for the BR05 at a distance, but up close it is clear that the BR-X5 is a big step up in terms of quality. The Kenissi movement certainly outperforms the ETA and Sellita calibres found in the BR05, while the case has a more complex construction that gives it more versatility in terms of materials. The BR-X5 is making its debut with a model entirely in steel as well as a fancier version in titanium and carbon that best illustrates the modular, layered construction of the case The improved case and movement, however, come at a price. The BR-X5 costs about 50% more than the equivalent BR05, a premium that is easily justified by the technical improvements. However, relative to the rest of the B&R; line-up the BR-X5 is pricey for a time-only watch, which means it will likely only make sense for those who appreciate and understand the tangible qualities of the watch over its less expensive siblings in the B&R; catalogue. Familiar design, new mechanics The centrepiece of the BR-X5 is...

How Do You Top The Sensational De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono? By Customizing It, Of Course – Reprise Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono? Oct 22, 2022

How Do You Top The Sensational De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono? By Customizing It, Of Course – Reprise

What Makes Me Tick loves watches made by small independent artisans because they fully embody the visions of their makers, who have put blood, sweat, and tears into creating them. Among the independent brands, De Bethune is most probably his favorite. In fact, no "probably" about it: De Bethune is his favorite. Here's how his customized DB28 Maxichrono came to be.

Hublot Introduces Big Bang Unico Gourmet in Damasteel SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Big Bang Unico Oct 22, 2022

Hublot Introduces Big Bang Unico Gourmet in Damasteel

A watchmaker that endlessly experiments with new materials, Hublot has once again employed a novel alloy for its quintessential sports chronograph. Inspired by the brand’s celebrity-chef brand ambassadors who include Anne-Sophie Pic and Yannick Alléno, the Big Bang Unico Gourmet has a case of Damasteel, a striking, patterned steel that’s often used for high-end knives. Initial thoughts The Unico Gourmet is typical Hublot in how it employs a novel material for visual effect. For that reason it will surely appeal to existing fans of the brand who enjoy the Hublot aesthetic. But the case material is Damasteel – not generic Damascus steel but a proprietary alloy made with a patented process by a Swedish specialist. While the alloy has been used in watches before, it’s more often used for pricey custom knives. The unusual metal means the watch will appeal to nerds who appreciate materials technology. The watch happens to look good and also different from the average Hublot. The patterned steel echoes the aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, creating a coherent combination of textures. In other words, the material is perfect match for the Big Bang. In contrast, it’s easy to image that an ordinary round watch with conventional dial would have been overwhelmed by the intricate texture of Damasteel. Since the watch is already loud with its striking pattern, it has been wisely been scaled down to just 42 mm, which is small for a Big Bang. As a result, it will sit w...

HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun Time+Tide
Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers Oct 22, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun

Laco are phenomenally popular with Flieger wearers as they’re one of the affordable brands to have made those original pilot’s watches during WWII. Now, the brand are as strong as ever and have branched out significantly from what could be considered their staple. The Laco Scorpion is a new extension to their Squad Watch collection … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Laco Scorpion 39 collection delivers rugged, 39mm dive watches with a sense of fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Country megastar Luke Bryan’s social media is a horological thirst trap Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2022

Country megastar Luke Bryan’s social media is a horological thirst trap

Country megastar Luke Bryan has a frankly astounding watch collection, but you wouldn’t know it going by how little he’s spoken about the subject. Yet, if you pay attention to his Instagram feed, it seems he’s wearing something new in just about every post. And why shouldn’t he? Sales-wise, those homespun ditties are no joke: … ContinuedThe post Country megastar Luke Bryan’s social media is a horological thirst trap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2022

“We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811

During the farewell tour of the 5711 Nautilus, we were led to believe the model was bidding adieu from the catalogue – at least in its time and date only configuration. It was a bit of a drawn-out goodbye, with a final run of green dial 5711 watches that were then followed by a limited-edition … ContinuedThe post “We made enough,” says Thierry Stern. There are no plans for a steel Nautilus 5811 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera “Cortina Watch” with a Green Gemstone Dial SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 21, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera “Cortina Watch” with a Green Gemstone Dial

Singapore watch retailer Cortina continues with its roll-out of special watches to mark its golden jubilee. Following limited editions from Blancpain, Patek Philippe, and H. Moser & Cie. comes the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Cortina Watch. While it might sound like yet another vintage-inspired chronograph, the latest Carrera is unlike anything TAG Heuer has done before. Instead of the usual steel, the case is 18k yellow gold, while the dial is made of maw sit sit, a little-known green gemstone found only in the northern parts of Myanmar. And the hour markers and hands are of course 18k yellow gold to match. Initial thoughts The base-model Carrera powered by the in-house Heuer 02 calibre is an appealing watch to begin with, especially in steel where it’s an affordable proposition with a historical design. But it is primarily a practical, everyday watch, which is arguably what it should be given its history as a motorsports chronograph. The Cortina edition, however, is the opposite. It is pricey, very much so in fact, but it is special. Green is the fashionable colour in watchmaking now, so you might be forgiven for feeling weary when faced with yet another dial in the colour. But green dials certainly capture the zeitgeist of today, and perhaps personify the “hype” watch culture exemplified by the famous olive-dial sports watch. The new Carrera, in contrast, runs counter to that. It is definitely green, but the natural stone dial means it is a intrinsically v...

My Top 6 Independent Watches From The Upcoming October 29 Ineichen Auction ‘Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons’ (With Videos Of The Watches) Quill & Pad
Oct 20, 2022

My Top 6 Independent Watches From The Upcoming October 29 Ineichen Auction ‘Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons’ (With Videos Of The Watches)

“Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons" is the title of the upcoming Ineichen two-part watch auction on October 29 and December 3, 2022, and it’s a title that attracted Ian Skellern's attention. There are 50 watches in the auction, a nice mix of both big and independent brands, so it’s well worth scrolling through the online catelogue, especially if money is burning a hole in your wallet because you can’t find a retailer with stock.

VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Oct 20, 2022

VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons

Homogenous design. In a marketplace where it seems consumers have tunnel vision towards particular design segments, watch manufacturers have often bent to the trend of the moment rather than forge their own path. While many watch geeks love innovation and fresh aesthetics, brands do not always see the incentive from the broader marketplace. Speake-Marin, however, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Oct 20, 2022

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer

A Briton who has been the Heritage Director at TAG Heuer since March 2021, Nicholas Biebuyck is in charge of the brand’s museum and archives. Like his peers at other brands, Mr Biebuyck’s role goes beyond historical papers and vintage watches. He participates in product development and marketing, while being a brand ambassador, especially in bringing the brand to enthusiasts and collectors. But Mr Biebuyck also experienced a swathe of the watch industry prior to his role at TAG Heuer. He was previously a watch specialist at Bonhams and then Christie’s before joining Blackbird Watch Manual, a specialist magazine based in Hong Kong. Mr Biebuyck, who now lives in Switzerland with his family, also gained an insight into the art of managing clients with earlier stints as a “Genius” in an Apple Store and then marketing private-jet charters in Africa. The hand-finished movement in the one-off Monaco Only Watch 2021, a hint of where TAG Heuer might be headed And so Mr Biebuyck was wearing several hats when he was in Singapore recently during the Formula 1 Grand Prix weekend, when TAG Heuer staged an exhibition dedicated to its history in motorsports. We got the opportunity to quiz him on several topics, including where TAG Heuer is headed and how the brand balances its glamorous motorsports history with its avant-garde innovation. And we also gain his thoughts on the vintage Heuer market, especially after the high watermark of the Heuer thematic auction in 2017. SJX: ...

The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition Time+Tide
Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies Oct 20, 2022

The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition

Hamilton’s history is a rich one. After taking over existing manufacturing facilities in Pennsylvania and establishing the Hamilton Watch Company in 1892, the brand was first focused on producing accurate railroad pocket watches, before shifting production to wristwatches after WWI, eventually only producing military watches during WWII. The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket watch focuses on … ContinuedThe post The new Hamilton Railroad Pocket embodies an American tradition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction Time+Tide
Oct 20, 2022

My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction

At Time+Tide, we love a good auction. The thrill of the bids and the hunt for the bargains make them by far the most exciting way to go watch shopping, and there’s often some interesting and alluring products lining the catalogues. Zach and Ricardo have previously had their turns with Ineichen, but now it’s my … ContinuedThe post My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmons Calavera SJX Watches
Chopard Oct 19, 2022

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmons Calavera

Konstantin Chaykin returns with another variation of his signature Wristmon “rolling eye” wristwatch, this time inspired by El Día de Muertos. Translating as “Day of the Dead”, the Mexican festival celebrates the departed and has served as inspiration for watchmakers as diverse as Chopard and Swatch. Modelled on the sugar skull candy known as calavera made for the festival, the latest from the Russian watchmaker is the Calavera. Like the other Wristmons, it has an exuberant face with the typical features of a Wristmon – time is indicated by the eyes while the mouth is a moon phase display. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin has created many Wristmon variants – the most recent was inspired by the titular yellow characters of Minions – which makes it seem like a great many have been produced. But in reality each edition is a small run of 20 or less watches, which means the aggregate number of watches is modest. Still, the appeal of the various Wristmon editions vary; because of their similar complications, the models tend to converge on each other. The Calavera, however, stands out. With its bright colours and curlicues, the striking face easily evokes the Mexican festival, while being distinct from other Wristmons. Familiar dimensions As is typical for a Wristmon, the dial is fairly complex. Here it’s comprised of 12 components, with the base featuring a stamped radial-wave guilloche and finished in a bright silver meant to resemble powdered sugar of ...

Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Monochromatic Top Gun’ Oct 19, 2022

Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore

Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...

VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes Time+Tide
Oct 18, 2022

VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes

Having distributed watches for Yema and Heuer in the 1970s alongside producing their own spectacular chronographs, it’s surprising that Le Jour have so far focused on other styles such as their SeaColt and Coral divers. Now, the time has come for them to embrace their true heritage and release the Le Jour Le Mans - … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.