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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge Time+Tide
Grand Seiko challenge Welcome Mar 5, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge

Welcome to the Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword! For those joining us for the first time, each week we will post a new crossword for you to solve with clues that revolve around a particular watch-focused theme. Knowing that most of you come to the site each day on your mobile phones, we settled on having … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #3: The Grand Seiko challenge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch Time+Tide
Panerai Luminor Mar 5, 2022

The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch

Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. Introduction: The Panerai Luminor When … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon SJX Watches
Mar 3, 2022

Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon

A start-up that focuses on design and watchmaking, Kross Studio was founded in 2020 but has already rolled out several pop culture-themed watches, including a desk clock in the form of the Batmobile from 1989’s Batman as well as a tourbillon wristwatch modelled the Death Star from Star Wars. Timed to debut just before the premiere of the latest Batman movie, the Batman Tourbillon once again relies on the central tourbillon movement that Kross has used in its past editions, but restyles the tourbillon cage to resemble the “Bat Signal” searchlight. Initial thoughts As was the case with Kross’ earlier watches, the Batman Tourbillon excels in terms of design. Though the brand has launched different editions with the same case and movement, the Batman watch is unique in style and theme. The tourbillon cage, for instance, has been transformed into a distress signal made famous by the “Caped Crusader”. And while the earlier Death Star Tourbillon was equipped with conventional hands, the Batman watch does away with  traditional hands, rendering the it much more futuristic. That said, the Batman theme gets in the way of the movement. The Bat Signal frame that sits over the tourbillon obscures an otherwise interesting, oversized central tourbillon. This compromise would be more acceptable if the cage was more figurative and decorative as on the Death Star Tourbillon – where the cage is shaped like the titular planetary laser – which would have made the dial more aes...

Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine Quill & Pad
Mar 3, 2022

Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine

Over the last few days, Dan-Andrei Kluska has watched the news in horror. He has lost sleep, he has cried a lot, and he feels that he has been paralyzed by the eruption of war in Europe. After the first shock wave passed and his tears dried, he started to think about the future and was sincerely fearful because a nuclear war would wipe out humanity as we know it. Here he challenges us all to do something (and some have answered the call).

This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This Time+Tide
IWC Ingenieur SL designed Mar 3, 2022

This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This

As watch enthusiasts progress in their collecting, each proceeding hunt is typically dictated by the box they want to check off next. Brand, complication, sports, dress etc. But serious horology heads often target creations based on their designers, and one designer who has attracted the hearts, minds and wallets of watch buyers around the world … ContinuedThe post This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bindi Block 8 Pinot Noir Australian Wine: A Peacock’s Tail Of Exploding Flavors Quill & Pad
Mar 2, 2022

Bindi Block 8 Pinot Noir Australian Wine: A Peacock’s Tail Of Exploding Flavors

There is one Australian winemaker who has not only been extraordinarily consistent, but produced world class Pinot (and Chardonnay), vintage after vintage, across the board: Bindi Wines, thanks to owner and winemaker Michael Dhillon. It would be a brave critic to leave Bindi out of any list of great Aussie Pinots and Ken Gargett rates the small winery among the very top.

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued? Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Limited Editions are Mar 2, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued?

Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into how Omega Speedmaster Limited Editions are rocketing in value. Today we are going to dive into the market status of first generation A. Lange & … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London SJX Watches
Mar 1, 2022

Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London

The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022. Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A. Pillars of the brand Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting. Lange 1A The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia. One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th annivers...

Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site Time+Tide
Seiko Monaco” chronographs Mar 1, 2022

Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Over the last five years or so, the luxury watch auction market seems to have grown more and more inaccessible for many collectors.  Economist Stephen … ContinuedThe post Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Mar 1, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon

The average person thinking of Louis Vuitton will have a lot of inspiration from which to draw their impressions. Between the $4000 handbags, $700 T-shirts, and even $1000 bucket hats, the image that Louis Vuitton paints is a surprisingly broad spectrum of wealth across high-fashion and streetwear. Leather goods, fragrances, clothing and eyewear are just … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Revives Feb 28, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976

Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...

Five takeaways from my time with the Tutima M2 Seven Seas S Time+Tide
Tutima Feb 27, 2022

Five takeaways from my time with the Tutima M2 Seven Seas S

There are multiple categories of watches out there. Dress, casual, chronograph, pilot; each with their own look and prerequisite capabilities. And with these options on the table, you’ll find many collectors simply pick one and begin scouring the internet for a brand’s interpretation of the category. It’s at this point that a good brand displays … ContinuedThe post Five takeaways from my time with the Tutima M2 Seven Seas S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial: Should It Be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner Feb 27, 2022

Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial: Should It Be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? – Reprise

Are there special vintage watch dial variations named after notable women in a vein similar to that of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? Nick Gould was wondering just that and researched. Finding a photo of Vanessa Redgrave wearing a Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with "Explorer" dial in 1966, he ruefully opines that this rare model would sound so much cooler as the Rolex "Vanessa Redgrave" Submariner rather than what collectors call it now: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer dial.

The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights Quill & Pad
Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning Feb 26, 2022

The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights

Twenty-five years – a quarter of a century – is a long time. But it’s not that long for a watch manufacturer. In 1996, Chopard's co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele proudly introduced Caliber 1.96 to the world, his brand's very first in-house movement. Here Martin Green highlights a few of his favorites from the 25-year-old L.U.C collection.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names Time+Tide
Feb 26, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names

Last week we launched our first ever Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword, and based on your feedback you guys were really happy with it – which makes us all here at Time+Tide very happy. As promised, this is not a one and done. Each week, we will post a new crossword for you all to solve … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Feb 26, 2022

Nomos Introduces the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray”

One of the four original models that Nomos launched as its inaugural collection in 1992, the Tangente is the brand’s longest-running model, having grown both literally and metaphorically – the case has expanded from a tiny 35 mm to today’s 41 mm, while the line has grown to include dozens of models. Now the Glashütte watchmaker has just given the automatic model an update to create the Tangente Neomatik “Platinum Gray” with a restrained dial that has a subtly sparkling grained finish and a case available in either 35 mm or 39 mm. Initial thoughts Despite being a simple iteration of an existing model, the Platinum Gray is a pleasing addition to the range. The highlight is the elegant dial, which calls to mind another watch made in Nomos’ hometown, the platinum Lange 1 nicknamed “Stealth” for its silver-on-silver palette. But the Tangente is clearly different – and far more affordable – as it looks less formal with its large Arabic numerals (and ironically the typography was inspired by vintage Lange wristwatches). Like other recent Nomos watches, the Platinum Gray is a variation on a theme – essentially just a new dial – which makes it repetitive. The lack of innovation or novelty can leave Nomos feeling unexciting at times, though the strong design identity and affordability of the brand remains appealing, as does its affordability. With a price tag that starts at US$3,070 and rises to US$3,780 depending on the case size and back, the Platinum ...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith Time+Tide
Zenith Hey there Time+Tide readers Feb 25, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith

Hey there Time+Tide readers, This is Ricardo and I’m going to hijack Zach’s Friday Wind Down to broadcast this urgent message. WATCH MEETUPS ARE BACK BABY! This past week, the pandemic stars aligned and I was able to safely attend the release party for Worn and Wound’s 10-year anniversary piece; a Seiko 5 pilot watch. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Worn & Wound 10th anniversary party and zero gravity Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lustau 125th Anniversary Sherry: Spanish Liquid Gold Quill & Pad
Feb 24, 2022

Lustau 125th Anniversary Sherry: Spanish Liquid Gold

To celebrate its 125th anniversary in 2021, Lustau released a set of three special sherries at the end of last year. These only come as a set, and there are only 2,500 bottles of each of the trio. Beautifully packaged, they have never been seen before, and they represent not only the history and the very DNA of Lustau, but also the three towns of the sherry triangle with one wine from each. Ken Gargett thinks that for sherry lovers these are an absolute must.

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik platinum grey Feb 24, 2022

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style

Synonymous with high quality and original design, NOMOS serves up an update to one of their most emphatically Bauhaus designs. This pairing of Tangente models showcases the new platinum grey dial colour, which adds welcome variety to the line-up of mostly white and blue offerings thus far. Tangente – Bauhaus personified Famously conceived by Walter … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Feb 24, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

One of Patek Philippe’s longest standing and most important retailers in Asia, Cortina Watch celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2022. In that half century, Cortina has grown from a single store in Singapore to one of the biggest retailers in Southeast Asia with a network of 45 stores and remains controlled by the founding Lim family. As it was with its 25th anniversary in 1997, Cortina is marking the milestone with a limited edition Patek Philippe – the same model in a different guise in fact. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” preserves the design of the earlier anniversary edition, but dresses it up in a more contemporary grey and silver livery. Importantly, the ref. 5057 was a brand-new reference conceived for Cortina, which means the new edition is only the second time that the reference is seeing light of day. Initial thoughts The ref. 5057G is notable in several ways. For one, it is unusual amongst retailer editions in having complications instead of being a time-and-date Calatrava, no doubt a reflection of the especially strong ties between the Stern and Lim families. Second, the ref. 5057G harks back to the watchmaker’s aesthetic of the 1990s with its dial and hobnail bezel. This sets it apart from Patek Philippe’s recent watches, which mostly have a more contemporary style. And the ref. 5057G is intrinsically attractive. I have yet to see the watch in person, but I’ve examined the preceding ref. 5057R several ...