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Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.
The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.
Quill & Pad
I’m not sure it’s possible to experience a Spike Lee film without being changed in some profound way. Lee loves writing with a pen, and Montblanc's new fountain pen in his honor is crafted in classic black resin with a sleek cap and decorated with Lee’s signature eyeglasses. Purple, the artist’s favorite color, also figures prominently.
Hodinkee
Back to the basics for this shortened week of HODINKEE Vintage, and black-dial sports watches headline the litter.
Time+Tide
I do love a good 38-40mm vintage-infused diver’s watch and, while some have come and gone from my box, they always tickle my fancy. But I also enjoy a touch of bling in my tool watches. Nothing against monochrome sharpness and the pure white print on a matte black dial, but like a watch-addicted magpie, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The J12 bridges fashion and horology. To find out how, read this big black book from the maison behind the little black dress.
SJX Watches
At the opening of its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva, Patek Philippe took the covers off a suite of watches and clocks decorated with artisanal techniques, including a new version of its ultra-fancy grand complication, the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R. First offered in blue enamel, and then black, the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 was the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s catalogue, until the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 and Grand Sonnerie ref. 6301. But the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains the most ornately decorated amongst its peers, with every surface of the case – and even the hands – engraved with arabesques and the dial in cloisonné enamel. Initial thoughts Enormous at 44 mm wide and over 17 mm high, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is an expensive, complex wristwatch that looks, well, expensive and complex. It’s often a statement piece for the segment of clients who find a Richard Mille affordable but unrefined, the new rose-gold variant makes sense. The metal is the most popular for high-end watches, globally but especially in Asia. It is warmer and richer, making the watch seem even more luxe – a useful characteristic in watch like this. The rationale for the Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold is clear. As a watch, I am certain it will be impressive, probably even more impressive than the earlier versions of the watch due to its brighter colours. It’s too baroque – and of course unaffordable – for most, but the target demographic w...
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Time+Tide
The best way to describe 2020 is that it was a black hole. Obviously there were far more serious casualties and situations, but the watch community sorely missed being able to get together and share our love for watches. Fortunately, the rising social media platform Clubhouse filled the void, but as we like to say … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Suave elegance with muscle and a touch of rose gold – the Grand Seiko SBGE251 is bold at 44mm, but sits softly on even a small wrist while radiating bags of presence. As a superb alternative to a GMT-Master II, the classic combination of rose gold and black turns up the style considerably if you’re … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGE251 is a tough GMT with a luxurious twinkle of rose gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched just last year, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is the flagship model in Audemars Piguet’s oft-discussed line of run watches. Executed well in almost every way, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph underscores the potential of the family. But more importantly, the watch encapsulates AP’s strengths. Despite being known largely for the Royal Oak, and widely criticised for the Code 11.59 and then the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, AP remains AP. The brand is a long-established, top-tier watchmaker that knows how to make fine watches. That is amply evident in the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned online at launch, though the virtual mob’s rage was overdone, taking the weakness of specific models and generalising it across the entire line. The dials on the three-hander and chronograph were bland, but the other models were more appealing. But the Code is in fact an impressive collection in terms of finish and construction – though some dials still can be improved – especially the octagon-within-a-circle case that’s difficult to appreciate in photos. But the Code 11.59 has gained traction since, especially with the subsequent facelifts that combined smoked, lacquered dials and two-tone cases that immediately made the watch more attractive. At the same time, highly complicated models have joined the line up, including the open-worked tourbillon and Grande Sonnerie, which add to...
Deployant
Bell & Ross releases its new BR 03-93 GMT watch with a two-tone 24 hour bezel. Borrowing soft drink nomenclature, the red and black bezel or coke bezel, is a more vibrant variant to the earlier BR 03-93 GMT.
Time+Tide
Eschewing the pretence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
My 8-year-old daughter has taken to wearing my G-Shock to school. The watch sits on her wrist like a rubber brick. The strap is pulled tight to the last hole, so it loops all the way around until the end sticks up like a black tongue. It’s about the coolest thing I’ve ever seen. She … ContinuedThe post Trying to get your kid into watches – without putting them off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Negroni Bear goes barefoot to the Maldives dressed in the epitome of tropical black-tie chic.
SJX Watches
Rolex has released new references of the Cosmograph Daytona with meteorite dials, in each colour of gold as well as the option of a bracelet or silicon Oysterflex strap. The versions on Oysterflex are matched with a black ceramic bezel, while the bracelet models featured gold bezels. Initial Thoughts Meteorite dials on Rolex watches are not new – the meteorite dial with Roman numerals made its debut on the Daytona almost two decades ago – and the current lineup includes features both the Day-Date and GMT-Master II with meteorite dials. The meteorite dials will be available in all three colours of gold (from left): Everose, white, and yellow gold The new arrivals are essentially a modest facelift – they share the same case, bezel, and mechanics as current gold Daytona – albeit one that is very well done. They are certainly eye-catching, especially combined with high-contrast black registers (the first-generation meteorite dials had matching meteorite registers). The new look is fairly priced. Depending on the case metal and choice of bracelet, expect to pay a premium of 10-15% over a standard gold Daytona model. Exotic dials Made of a slice of iron meteorite, the dial is first etched with acid to highlight the Widmanstätten pattern, the streaky motif created by the crystalline structure of the material, and then polished. But it still retains a slightly textured surface, unlike the perfectly smooth lacquered finished of most Daytona dials. As is conventional for...
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty one sees Rolex revamp both its Explorer references, just in time for the 50th anniversary of the model. The new Explorer II ref. 226570 gets a new movement, while preserving the familiar style of previous model, the ref. 216570 that was launched exactly a decade ago. That means a second time zone hand in orange; fixed, brushed steel bezel; a largish, 42 mm case; and a white or black dial. While the new Explorer II is similar to its predecessor in terms of aesthetics – though the case is slimmed slightly and bracelet widened – it is powered by the cal. 3285, one of the latest-generation Rolex movement. Initial thoughts The new Explorer II is a major technical update thanks to the new movement, but in terms of look and feel, it is likely indistinguishable from its predecessor. Anyone who was a fan of the preceding model – this is a superior version of the same because the new movement is substantially better. But for those who thought the 42 mm case was too wide, it’s still 42 mm, albeit with redesigned lugs to make it slightly narrower. I find the 42 mm case a bit too big, but the version with the “polar” white dial has long been a favourite, and the new movement makes it more appealing, notwithstanding the case. For what it costs at retail the Explorer II is an excellent buy – as most Rolex watches are – though it’ll probably be tough to land one for now. Nips and tucks The Explorer II has a 42 mm case made of Oystersteel, which Rolex’s o...
Revolution
Following on from the sell-out blue and white 90th anniversary Popeye GMT, Bamford is launching the second watch in a blue and black livery in a limited edition of 100 pieces.
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Time+Tide
The Iridium Torpedo arrives to offer a different take on the budget-friendly dive watch with monster specifications for minimum spending. With looks that stray closer to glamour than “tool watch”, it doesn’t shy away from being highly capable and seriously tough. The Torpedo is available with a black, blue, grey, or green dial, and the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A watch that combines the famous octagonal case with an innovative movement, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is unquestionably the most technically interesting time-only Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak. And then there’s this bejewelled version that’s certainly a lot more extravagant, but at the same time shows off the details and finishing of the movement better. Initial thoughts This watch is the ultimate black-tie watch – time-only and eminently classical in size at just 37 mm. In fact, it’s quite a bit smaller than the 41 mm standard model, making it a discreet fit under a cuff that will probably be secured by diamond-set cufflinks. It’s also dressed up with a glossy crocodile strap and a lot of generously sized, baguette-cut diamonds – a technically-inclined watch that takes its bling seriously. But this is not just another octagonal watch with diamonds. The movement relies on a novel technical concept for better timekeeping, but its technical merits are usually overlooked because it is installed inside a “hot” watch. And this particular version of the movement is more attractively executed here than on the standard models. Because movement here is plated in silvery rhodium – no doubt to match the dazzling whiteness of the diamonds – it’s more appealing than on the non-jewelled versions that have a dark grey ruthenium finish that’s almost black. While the finishing of the two is essentially identical, the dark finish obscures much ...
Revolution
IWC’s New Fliegerchronograph takes inspiration from the Iconic “Black Flieger” from the mid-1990’s, but upgrades the ceramic case to groundbreaking Ceratanium, and an in-house movement.
Time+Tide
H.Moser have become central to the revival of deep fumé or degradè dial finishing. Their deep colours captivate your attention like no flat black dial ever could. In this video we check out the the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red, which certainly lives up to its colourful name. This luscious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: You’ll get lost in the spellbinding dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
When the Tampa Bay Buccaneers took the field on Monday morning (in Australia), February 8 against the Kansas City Chiefs in the Super Bowl, Ken Gargett pulled out a Romeo y Julieta Churchill. The poor thing was a solo stick in a lonely humidor and the foot was very ratty, torn and tattered, but otherwise it appeared in good condition. And as it was a gift, who was he to complain. But it turned out to be a stellar cigar and the perfect accompaniment to a cracking game.
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Quill & Pad
The Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono with black or blue dial on rubber strap or integrated steel bracelet is a perfect amalgamation of the most successful details given the Bell & Ross treatment. For Joshua Munchow, this is a great watch that has arrived at the height of the steel sports watch party for maximum fun. And it's relatively affordable.
Deployant
Zenith released their new El Primero chronograph early this year. It comes in two dial variants black or blue and in either bracelet or fabric strap. The bracelet version is priced at US$10,000 while the fabric at US$9,500. A key differentiator is its movement which uses a high beat chronograph seconds capable of measuring 1/10th of a second.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: It only debuted 12 months ago, but the Hublot Big Bang Integral collection has already established itself as a mainstay within the brand’s lineup. Launched with variants in King Gold, titanium and black ceramic, the bracelet is so cleanly designed with its artful blend of polished and brushed surfaces highlighting its razor-sharp facets, … ContinuedThe post This bracelet is an integral part of Hublot’s future – here’s why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The brand of humour peculiar to H. Moser & Cie. has been expressed in many ways – some of which resulted in legal blowback – but the best known was always the Swiss Alp Watch of 2016. Essentially a high-end mechanical wristwatch that resembles the Apple Watch, the oblong timepiece is now taking its curtain call with a final, 50-piece run. Featured an endlessly black dial coated in Vantablack – the blackest of black substance that absorbs almost all light – the Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade continues the entertaining aesthetic of its predecessors, with a little added humour in the form of a subsidiary seconds that takes the form of the spinning “loading” indicator found in Apple products. Initial thoughts Derived from an earlier iteration of the Swiss Alp Watch with an all-black, “sleep” dial, the final edition is a droll watch that’s easily the most amusing of the series. Though the Swiss Alp Watch has the same form as the Apple Watch, it is notably larger. Despite being a truly minimalist watch, it does sit large and chunky on the wrist. Legibility is surprisingly excellent despite the near-monochromatic dial, as the polished, dark-grey hands have good contrast against the Vantablack dial. But the Swiss Alp Watch is no horological joke. In fact, it is equipped with one of Moser’s top end movements, the HMC 324. It’s a rare movement Moser has used only in one other model that didn’t sell very well. Unusual for being tonneau shaped, the HMC 324 boas...
Time+Tide
The Super Bowl is fast approaching, and as a New Yorker it pains me that Tom Brady and the Tampa Bay Buccaners will be battling it out with Kansas City for the championship. While the Houston Texans did not make it all the way this year, I can imagine at least 15 people in the … ContinuedThe post NFL quarterback Deshaun Watson gifts 15 of his teammates $13.6K Hublot Big Bang watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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