3,477 articles · 11 videos found · page 75 of 117
Time+Tide
Inspired by an unusual art movement, Trilobe's latest releases expand on the brand's colourway offering.The post Trilobe contrasts light and dark with the Nuit Fantastique Ombre and Lumière appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In its original form, the Piaget Polo is an all-gold watch emblematic of 1970s style, but the model’s latest incarnation is the opposite. The Polo Skeleton Ceramic has an ultra-thin movement open-worked in a clean, geometric style, presented in brushed black ceramic case. Based on the original in steel, the Polo Skeleton Ceramic is dressed in restrained colours of black, grey, and dark blue, for a minimalist, low-key aesthetic. Initial thoughts The modern Polo has evolved since its original form of 2016, and with the evolution the model has gained its own character. While the original version felt like a typical luxury-sports watch with its patterned blue dial and prominent bezel, the skeleton in ceramic looks original. The matte black ceramic case matches the technical appearance of the movement, though I would have preferred grey or even white Super-Luminova. The blue lume matches the rotor and Piaget’s corporate colour, but it is too unorthodox (and it also glows less brightly). Though finished with the same alternate brushed and polished surfaces as its steel counterpart, the ceramic case feels more refined given the comparative challenge of finishing ceramic to the same degree as steel. The cal. 1200S1 is open worked in a modern style that is typical of many current skeleton movements. All of the bridges have clean lines and surfaces, which complements the case and dial aesthetic. The movement finishing is industrial-haute horlogerie, though I would have employed ...
Deployant
Piaget, the pioneer of ultra thin movement debuts their first ever ceramic watch at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024. The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic. The bold use of new materials is a testament to the Maison’s commitment to watchmaking excellence and innovation.
SJX Watches
Conceived as an affordable sub-brand of MB&F;, M.A.D. Editions has become a runaway success by making an MB&F;-esque design accessible. Now the concept has been further refined with the M.A.D.1S, where the suffix stands for slimmer, Swiss, and single cylinder. The case is thinner by almost 4 mm, and now contains a Swiss-made movement that indicates the time (approximately) on a single cylinder. Initial thoughts The original M.A.D.1 was a fun watch that was affordable but expensive, and extremely thick at almost 19 mm. The slimmed down version has sleeker proportions, and the same price tag, but offers comparatively better value. The M.A.D.1S is priced at CHF2,900, just like the original version. Like the original, the M.A.D.1S is priced well for a watch with a little bit of the MB&F; magic, but expensive for a watch of its build and movement. However, the M.A.D.1S is comparatively less expensive, and conversely offers a bit more value, because it has a slightly more upscale movement inside. Mad but more wearable Two versions of the M.A.D.1S are available, one with a blue dial and the other in purple. The blue is available to the public, while the purple is only for “Friends & Tribe”, namely associates of the brand and owners of MB&F; watches. Both will be sold via an online raffle, as is convention for the M.A.D. watches. Both editions are otherwise identical, with a case that’s substantially slimmer than the original M.A.D.1. While the original was almost 19 mm high, th...
Deployant
Grand Seiko releases a new watch in the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGA499.
Quill & Pad
From the moment Lange launched the first Datograph in 1999, it was a watershed for its maker and the industry at large. At the time, Lange was still a young brand, and it had only recently embraced display casebacks: the jump from seeing nothing with a solid caseback to the sensational caliber L951 was a quantum leap.
WatchAdvice
In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences. But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...
SJX Watches
As the official timekeeper of the 37th America’s Cup soon taking place in Barcelona, Omega is marking the occasion with the Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup. A time-only version of the brand’s signature dive watch, the latest Seamaster features most of Omega’s material and movement innovations, including a laser-engraved ceramic dial and METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. The special edition also sports yachting-specific elements, including a blue ceramic bezel with a regatta countdown scale and a seconds hand counterweight in the form of the America’s Cup trophy. Initial thoughts As a special or limited edition, the new Seamaster is not especially interesting since Omega does a lot of them, with several commemorative editions for each sporting events it’s part of. And it’s not just for sports but also the James Bond film franchise. But as a new Seamaster, the America’s Cup edition works well. For one it’s a good value proposition at US$6,500 on a bracelet, particularly given the specs and features. At the same time, the blue-and-white aesthetic is appealing, especially with the clean, no-date look. And there’s the subtle detail on the minute hand with a gradual colour fade finish that is novel and so far unique in the Omega catalogue. So leaving aside that it’s yet another commemorative watch – it could do without the large logo on the sapphire back – the America’s Cup edition stands out as of the more appealing Seamaster models. A...
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin introduces the new Patrimony Manual-Winding, with an updated movement, new dial colour, and striking strap colours.
Quill & Pad
When Rolex put the Sky-Dweller Caliber 9001 in a Rolesor case in 2017 (“Rolesor” is a Rolex term for stainless steel and gold) and dropped the price down to $14,400 Chris Malburg became a player. And, as he soon discovered, so were a goodly number of other Rolex admirers. Here is why he bought this watch and what happened then.
Quill & Pad
For a watch to qualify as a COSC certified chronometer, the movement not the cased watch) has to be precise to -4 sec to +6 sec per day and that’s more than precise enough for most brands. But Ferdinand Berthoud is not most brands.
Time+Tide
Seiko engineer Yoshikazu Akahane dreamt up the revolutionary Spring Drive movement technology in the late 1970s. But what is it?The post What is Seiko Spring Drive? Is it quartz? Is it mechanical? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited Edition marks Stowa's commitment to craftsmanship and design. This timepiece, limited to only 10 pieces, features a modern and military aesthetic with a highly functional approach. It houses a Valjoux 7754 chronograph movement with an uncommon single minute subdial and GMT handstack.
Monochrome
A new name on the independent watchmaking firmament arises, as Chinese watchmaker Neo Kung presents his Orienta. With experience working for the Seagull and Shanghai movement manufacturers, Neo Kung has a deep understanding of what it takes to build a movement. And by the looks of it, he knows what he’s doing! His Orienta has […]
Monochrome
With 100 years of watchmaking under its belt, Delma has quite a rich history. To honour this momentous occasion, Delma has released a fresh ice-blue limited edition of its stout Montego. This automatic chronograph is known for its robustness, fitted with a very reliable automatic chronograph movement and a bold and powerful look. It ties […]
Fratello
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar is a beautifully designed annual calendar. Today, we’ll look closer at this 18-carat red gold beauty that blends functionality with an elegant layout. It features a stunning movement that’s put on display on the flip side. Glashütte Original is a brand that brings back fond memories. I was in Chicago with […] Visit Hands On: The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2021, Tissot introduced the PRX collection, a lineup that perfectly captured the essence of its 1970s inspiration with a barrel-shaped case, integrated bracelet, and quartz movement. A few months later, the design was reissued, featuring the Powermatic 80 movement. It quickly became clear that the series was perfectly in tune with the growing trend […]
Quill & Pad
The Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité has a stunning movement while maintaining the design language of the Place Vendôme. This may seem trivial to some but for a brand that has always had a strong design culture, designing a movement around the desired appearance is still quite impressive.
Fratello
Atelier Wen has taken up the mantle of providing insightful looks at Chinese watchmaking. With the Inside The Atelier video series, we are treated to an inside view of different suppliers of the brand’s end product. Today’s video focuses on movement-making with a rare behind-the-scenes tour of the Liaoning Peacock Watch Company in Dandong. Back […] Visit Atelier Wen Releases The Second “Inside The Atelier” Video to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
We’ve gone hands on with the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10, and after a week with this piece on the wrist, here’s what we think! What We Love: Its undeniable wrist presence! Unique in-house movement with 10-day power reserve The Meccano-inspired design elements What We Don’t: Is large and won’t suit all wrists Clasp can irritate the wrist a little if the strap is too loose Not as versatile as other Hublot offerings Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This is the first time that I have personally had the opportunity to review a piece from Hublot. Yes, I’ve worn them before and had many times to play around with them, but never in a capacity where I’m actively putting pen to paper (So to speak) and sitting down and writing my thoughts on them. It’s a different exercise doing this compared to just wearing the watches and appreciating them for what they are and enjoying them. I mean, how many times do you sit down and write 2000 words on your daily wearer? It makes you think differently about it, especially as you try and put yourself in someone else’s shoes who may be considering a new purchase. No pressure at all! The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10. Big, blue and beautiful! Having had a fair bit of exposure to Hublot over the last few years, I’ve come into this review with a little more knowledge than had I done this prior, and as I’ve discovered time and time again, the more knowledge you have around...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
MeisterSinger, famous for its single-hand display, continues to iterate on its signature design. Despite the limitation of a single-hand movement, the German brand has proven to be very creative and versatile. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has pleased watch enthusiasts with calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hours, power reserves, and more, all in its own style. This month MeisterSinger is back with the Special Edition №3 watches and bright blue accents.
Monochrome
Initially introduced in 2022 as part of the 50th-anniversary celebrations of the Royal Oak, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked was first released in steel (reference 16204ST), featuring a steel-grey skeletonized movement and contrasting pink gold hands and indices. Following this, the watch was also made available in pink, yellow and white gold cases. While the […]
SJX Watches
Mechanical escapements remain the most fascinating and enticing field of horological study even in the 21st century. At its core, an escapement has a simple purpose: restore lost energy to the oscillating organ while regulating the discharge speed of the going train – thus allowing for time measurement. Straightforward as the concept is, executing an escapement well is a completely different affair. The escapement is perhaps the element of the mechanical movement that has undergone the most iterations since its invention. The reason is simple: escapements were, and remain, imperfect systems. In fact, the escapement is often the least efficient aspect of a mechanical movement in terms of energy transfer. That’s why watchmakers and engineers have devised innumerable variants in the search of the ideal escapement. Explaining escapement efficiency In physics the efficiency of a system is the proportion of useful work done relative to the total work done by said system. The result, measured as a percentage, speaks to the energy conserved within the system. For example, an 80% efficiency means that 20% of the total available energy is lost, with the remaining 80% usefully conserved. That said, an efficient escapement isn’t necessarily chronometrically-potent, since there are more criteria, apart from energy conservation, which reflect in a movement’s accuracy. The way in which escapement parts impulse to the balance, the proximity of the equilibrium point and the deg...
Quill & Pad
MB&F; movement constructor for LM Perpetual,Stephen McDonnell’s focus was split between ease of use, durability, and packaging. Ease of use comes in the form of an independent corrector for each of the day, date, month, and leap year. Unlike most perpetual calendars, the MB&F; LM Perpetual has a permanent freestanding button for advancing each display; no separate tool is required.
WatchAdvice
We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...
Worn & Wound
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
Monochrome
Ultra-thin watchmaking is a fascinating topic, one of our favourite areas of expertise here, at MONOCHROME. Ultra-thin watchmaking is horology at its purest, a no-compromise search for the slenderest movement that has to be considered a true complication. While high-watchmaking often seeks to bring as many complications as possible in a single movement, ultra-thinness is […]
WatchAdvice
The Cartier Santos Dumont is a watch beautifully frozen in time – aesthetically and functionally true to the original, and it’s still as relevant as ever in 2024. What We Love Classic and timeless design Thin, elegant, and comfortable on the wrist Movement is smooth and appropriate for a dress piece What We Don’t Wears larger than anticipated (due to my small wrists) The pin buckle is finicky at times and hard to adjust A display case back would be great! Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ah, Cartier: One of the pillars of modern watchmaking as we know it. Even though they are a High Jewellery Maison, their knowledge of horology is storied and epic, and through their achievements, sparked some of the most important innovations in the history of this beautiful art. I’ve known about Cartier and their reputation my whole life, but other than occasionally peering into their boutique and looking through the window, I always thought my opinion of them would never extend further than their occasional appearances in rom-coms, music, and other pop culture. The Cartier Santos Dumont Getting into the watch business gave me a whole new perspective on what I knew about the Parisian brand. Getting into Watch Advice also allowed me to take a massive deep dive into Cartier’s history, which naturally garnered a new respect for them. The Santos was the first ever wristwatch? How crazy is that? I won’t nerd you o...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) first unveiled the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 2016, in full-sized 41 mm format. It’s a technically interesting take on the brand’s signature luxury-sports watch. While it is a time-only watch, the skeletonised movement sports a pair of mirrored, superimposed balance wheels and hairsprings. Though already available in 37 mm with a sparkly “frosted” case or entirely gem-set, the 37 mm model wasn’t offered in the classic Royal Oak finish. Now the movement makes its debut in a compact 37 mm case in the traditional brushed-and-polished finish. It’s available in either pink or white gold with the open-worked movement colour-matched to the case metal. Initial thoughts The Double Balance Wheel model is something of a halo model for the Royal Oak range. Though it is not complicated in the functional sense, it is equipped with an interesting feature that theoretically contributes to chronometry. Add to that the distinctive aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, and the result is a watch that is classical Royal Oak in design yet more sophisticated in technical terms. The original 41 mm model, however, was fairly large, and the angular form of the Royal Oak accentuated the size. The original 37 mm models were extravagant and perhaps too over-the-top for everyday wear. The new pair is easily more wearable and should appeal to a wider audience. The new models are each priced at US$98,100, which is comparable to the earlier versions...
Fratello
Please, come closer. It’s worth it. When you do, you can find that the movement inside the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium comprises 194 parts and features no fewer than 16 types of manual finishing. This results in a sophisticated and impressive watch that is both complicated and minimalistic; indeed, it is a paradox in […] Visit Hands-On With A Hyper Watch: The Complicated And Minimalistic Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium to read the full article.
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