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Time+Tide
Seiko's entry-level GMT movement has been making the rounds, most recently landing in the Presage Cocktail Time GMT.The post The 4R34 brings classy utility to the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer has unveiled their latest Carrera, another collaboration with Porsche, officially dubbed the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963. As watch enthusiasts know, there’s a range of how “Porschey” these collaborations get. Sometimes they simply have the German automaker’s badge slapped onto the watch somewhere, and sometimes the connection is very inside baseball, like when TAG made a new chronograph movement that accelerated at the same rate as a classic 911. This new watch is somewhere in the middle, with some clever visual winks to the car that inspired it, but nothing new under the hood. The new watch takes its specific inspiration from Porsche’s success in endurance racing. The Porsche 963, developed under Le Mans Daytona Hybrid regulations, is the current pinnacle of Porsche’s expertise in endurance, a tradition that goes back decades. This is an aggressive take on the Carrera, which is a watch that we’ve seen wear many different capes in recent years. It’s a platform that is perhaps most at home as a traditional, elegant, gentleman’s racing chronograph, but can flex into something far more contemporary with relative ease. The 44mm case is stainless steel and coated in black PVD, and has been accented with a carbon fiber bezel with a tachymetric scale. Naturally we get a complex, skeletonized dial (nothing says “modern and contemporary” like skeletonization, I guess) as well as plenty of lume. The lume is actually what most closely links t...
SJX Watches
Panerai’s origins lie in highly luminous dive watches for the Italy’s Marina Militare – and its signature models are named after luminescence – and the brand’s latest continues that tradition. Equipped with a miniature lighting system, the Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is the fourth of Panerai’s LAB-ID “concept” watches. The PAM01800 is powered by a movement with twin mainsprings, and the lighting module having four mainsprings of its own for 30 minutes of illumination. Initial thoughts Amongst Panerai’s recent launches, the PAM01800 is the most interesting both in terms of technology and relevance to the brand’s history. Though such lighting systems have been done before by Van Cleef & Arpels and De Bethune, the one inside the PAM01800 is more advanced, being brighter as well as having a longer power reserve, up to 30 minutes of illumination in fact. And it is a fitting nod to vintage Panerai watches that were generously lumed pocket watches modified for the wrist. At 49 mm, the PAM01800 is slightly ridiculous in size, and almost the same size as the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, but not far from the dimensions of historical Panerai watches. However, the PAM01800 is expensive at CHF92,800. Despite the interesting technology, the price feels ambitious, particularly since Panerai never really had durable success with its highest end offerings. Motor-driven lume A project that took some eight years to complete according to the brand, the PAM01800 was devel...
Fratello
As Mike Stockton recently announced on Fratello, TAG Heuer has updated its large Aquaracer. The 43mm model got a 1mm downsize, new caliber, and new dial, among other changes. Mike did a great job describing all the changes but did not have the chance to try the new watches on. Since then, I have, so […] Visit Hands-On With The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date And GMT to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...
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Monochrome
Singer Reimagined, founded by Rob Dickinson of Singer Vehicle Design fame and Marco Borraccino, a watch designer, raced into the watch world with the Track 1, an incredible 1970s-inspired chronograph with a high-end movement designed by watch wizard Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Capitalising on the profound ties between petrol heads and cog heads, Singer Reimagined is […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Watch Co. of Japan has been making watches for 100 years, and a glance at the brand’s current portfolio reveals that quite a few of those watches are dive watches. It’s not surprising, since Citizen has been in the business of supplying watches for divers since the early 1980s, and has been extending the variety of styles, functionalities, and even movement types available in the various collections ever since. So how do you decide on whether you want your first (or next) Citizen dive watch to be an Eco-Drive or an automatic? An everyday-wear Fugu, a multipurpose Aqualand, or a deep-diving Eco-Zilla? Our comprehensive guide is here to help you, with a brief history of Citizen dive watches and a rundown of all the styles available today. Swiss watchmakers began embracing purpose-built, water-resistant divers’ watches in the early 1950s, while their contemporaries in Japan came aboard a decade or so later. As many history-minded watch enthusiasts are aware, it was Citizen’s competitor, Seiko, that released the first Japanese-made divers’ watch, in 1965. However, Citizen’s Parawater, regarded as the first “water-resistant” Japanese watch, preceded it to market six years earlier, in 1959. The Parawater watches (as above) were waterproof to 50 meters of depth, an impressive feat for the era, and they were the forerunners of Citizen’s contemporary line of dive watches, which began in the 1960s but really kicked into gear with the release of the Promast...
Fratello
On the 10th anniversary of the Escale collection, Louis Vuitton introduces its new Escale Time-Only Automatic watch with caliber LFT023. Four new references are available, each with a 39mm case in rose gold or platinum and a leather strap. Louis Vuitton Escale Many of us, including yours truly, have been craving more new dress watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of Journe's Japan boutique, F.P. brings out a brand new manually-wound caliber.
SJX Watches
Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve. Initial thoughts Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet. Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1. Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment. The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range. Bang for your buck The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time a...
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Time+Tide
Stealthy, retro-futuristic, unashamedly masculine and powered by a tasteful in-house movement, this Chanel hits different.The post The Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the most masculine watch Chanel has ever produced appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Today, Omega is expanding its Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch collection with two new bicolor/two-tone models. It’s an exciting day for those who may have wanted the latest movement and updates but found the all-steel models too boring and all-gold versions too expensive. In other words, these two new Moonwatch variants could be the perfect middle ground. […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To Two New Bicolor Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Known for its military-inspired instrument watches, Sinn revisits one of its signature models with the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph. Updated in terms of the movement and case, the new 903 makes its debut with three dial variants, including a limited edition featuring an attractive light blue dial. Initial thoughts The 903 St is curious for bearing a striking similarity to the Breitling Navitimer – a result of Breitling having sold the rights to produce the Navitimer when it went bust during the Quartz Crisis. While the earliest versions of the 903 were essentially rebadged Navitimers – Sinn having bought the components from Breitling – the new 903 is a Sinn creation and also better than previous generations. The 903 St II in classic black Compared to earlier generations of the model, the 903 St II is streamlined and improved. Upgrades include removing the fiddly second crown at ten (so the slide rule is now directly operated via the bezel), the addition of luminous blocks for indices, and an applied logo. The appeal of the new 903, however, does have one caveat: the date between four and five remains, but only on the regular production version. It’s absent on the limited edition, but that arguably should have been done for all variants. The standard 903 St costs US$3,730 with a leather strap, and an additional US$240 for a bracelet. The 500-piece limited edition model is priced at US$4,170. The affordable price makes it a more attractive proposition than ma...
Monochrome
Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]
Fratello
Horage, one of the odd ones out in the watch industry, presents the fourth model in its Lensman series, the Lensman 1.2. It’s another technically exciting offering equipped with an upgraded version of Horage’s K-TOU movement. But one should not ignore the watch’s appearance either. With its white dial and strap, the Lensman 1.2 is […] Visit Introducing: The Lightweight And Refreshing Horage Lensman 1.2 to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...
Time+Tide
A new dial, a new movement, and a new material make up what could be the definition of a Grand Seiko dress watch in the future.The post The Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003 are classier White Birch evolutions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In 2022 MB&F; launched its first ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO. A twin-chronograph constructed by Stephen McDonnell, it was a clever reinterpretation of the split-seconds function. Today MB&F; upgrades the concept with the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum that boasts a revised movement incorporating an additional flyback function. Initial thoughts The LM Sequential Flyback is certainly polarising in terms of style and technique, like most MB&F; creations. The original Sequential EVO was praised for its exceptional and creative movement construction, though the utility of the twin chronograph was debated. The LM Sequential Flyback now adds a flyback function to the package, which may seem excessive. But that misses the point: the question of utility needn’t be answered nor asked. Such a timepiece goes far past the realm of practicality and needs to be judged simply by what it is: an incredible concept painstakingly executed. We already explored in detail how Mr McDonnell implemented the Twinverter system of double chronographs mechanisms while making the complex movement chronometrically-potent, despite the obvious challenges. I recommend reading the original story, as it thoroughly explains the beautiful mechanical subtleties of the watch. In the original Sequential EVO, the layered and complex construction of the movement meant the flyback function couldn’t be reliably implemented. Mr McDonnell ultimately dropped the idea and focused on perfecting the rest of t...
SJX Watches
Oak & Oscar has just launched its second chronograph, the Atwood, a modern take on vintage racing chronographs that’s powered by a manually wound Sellita AMT5100M. The movement is a derivative of the Valjoux 7750 that has a few tricks up its sleeve, namely a column wheel and flyback functionality. Chicago-based Oak & Oscar was founded in 2015, making it part of the early wave of ‘micro brands.’ Over the past nine years, the brand has managed to develop its own recognisable minimalist aesthetic across a range of versatile go-anywhere, do-anything sports watches. Initial Thoughts I tend to be fond of Oak & Oscar’s designs, and a lot of that has to do with the expert use of colour. The Atwood is offered in three colourways that are each appealing in their own right, and will feel familiar to fans of the brand. The brand’s signature orange seconds hand is complemented by matching accents on the sub-dials, a stylistic choice that evokes sporty ’70s chronographs like the Tudor Monte Carlo. But the design still manages to feel fresh, thanks in part to the brand’s own strikingly modern typeface. The Atwood is the brand’s second chronograph, after the Jackson which debuted in 2017. The Atwood addresses one of the few shortcomings of the Jackson, which is the latter’s 14.5 mm case thickness. The 39 mm Atwood is comparatively slim at just 12.9 mm, a figure that includes the domed sapphire crystal, meaning that visually it will appear even thinner. While the dimensio...
Worn & Wound
Massena LAB has announced a new collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès inspired by one of the most important Patek Philippe watches of the last century. The Absinthe, which serves as the direct follow-up to the pair’s massively successful 2022 release, the Magraph, brings together a proprietary hand-wound movement, a strikingly green dial (reminiscent of the infamous spirit for which the watch is named), and all the vintage charm we have come to expect from Massena LAB in one surprisingly affordable (and highly limited) package. William Massena is one of those rare figures in the watch industry who everyone seems to know. He’s an outsized presence who seemingly manages to be everywhere at once and have a hand in every facet of the watch industry. Over the last few years though, his name has come to be associated primarily with Massena LAB, where he consistently produces some of the most talked about limited editions and collaborations on the market. This latest release follows closely on the heels of a watch introduced last month. That watch - a collaboration between Massena LAB, Pagès, and Phillips Auction House in association with Bass & Russo - debuted the M690 movement used in the Absinthe and drew inspiration in its layout from the iconic (and record-setting) 1952 Patek Philippe ref. 2458 produced for J.B. Champion, Jr. That watch was one of only two Patek wrist watches to have been fitted with an Observatory-grade movement, and its unique d...
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Time+Tide
With a pink Comblémine dial and completely over-engineered movement, this Moritz Grossmann is a prime example of Glashütte watchmaking.The post Moritz Grossmann and Art in Time team up to benefit the Princess Grace Foundation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
While its primary focus has been the highly successful PRX collection for a couple of years, last year, Tissot decided to go back to basics by discreetly reinterpreting one of its classics, the Chemin des Tourelles collection. Subtly redesigned, upgraded mechanically with a Powermatic 80 movement and offering new and elegant dial designs, the revamped […]
Fratello
Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A wristwatch synonymous with biceps and AR-15s, Seiko’s H558-5009 “Arnie” continues to maintain its popularity in the watch collecting community today. Aside from its screen time in several Arnold Schwarzenegger films, its hefty 46mm case and rather sophisticated analogue-digital movement make the Arnie a unique and desirable timepiece. Other variations of the Arnie include the “Upside Down Arnie” H601-5480 and “Baby Arnie” H556-5029, both of which have their own following and are collectible in their own right. Unfortunately, their typically high price tags in today’s market make these variants fairly unobtainable to the everyday hobbyist looking for a fun weekend watch. However, the Seiko Sports line’s 1980s catalog is far more diverse than one might imagine, and within it exists the perfect alternative to the bulky Arnie and its cousins. The H601-8020’s Inception and Design While Seiko’s history is well documented by the company and its dedicated fanbase, little information exists regarding the brand’s Sports SQ line. Their initial attempt at durable wristwatches came by way of the Seiko 5 line––starting in 1963 with the Sportsmatic 5––but the roots of SQ and Sports branding is a little less clear. Focusing only on the US market, it can be assumed SQ began appearing on dials somewhere in the mid 1970s and the Sports moniker (in this specific use) shortly after in the early 1980s. Of course, there are several variations of “sports” u...
Fratello
It has wide, massive lugs, a Grand Seiko vibe, a mechanical hand-wound movement, a date with magnifier, and no lume, just the contrasting beauty of the sunburst dial and polished hands and indexes. Oh, and let’s not forget an attractive price tag. You might say these things make this Seiko Cronos Self Dater a perfect […] Visit #TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget to read the full article.
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