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Auction Watch: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Sells for Record US$662,000 SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2020

Auction Watch: Philippe Dufour Simplicity Sells for Record US$662,000

Sotheby’s fall watch auction in Hong Kong included a diverse selection of independent watchmaking, including two examples of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, both with silver guilloche dials. The first to go on the block was a 37 mm specimen in white gold with a movement number of 68. It sold to a client represented by Joey Luk of Sotheby’s watch department for HK$3.528m including fees, which is a little over US$455,000. That was substantially above the US$250,000-300,000 range that the Simplicity had generally sold for, setting a new record for the model. The next lot was a 34 mm Simplicity in platinum, numbered “100”. And then the record was broken. After a few minutes of back and forth between an online bidder, as well as phone bidders represented by Ms Luk and John Chan, also of Sotheby’s watch department, Mr Chan’s bidder triumphed with a bid of HK$4.1m. Inclusive of fees, the total was HK$5.136m, or about US$662,000, well over double the most recent high for the Simplicity. Part of the reason behind the price is rarity, not only absolute but also relative to other Simplicities. Platinum is unquestionably the rarest metal version for the watch, and 34 mm examples is are regarded to be fewer than 37 mm. The record price for both watches bode well for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary “00/20” – fresh from maker and offered by Mr Dufour himself – that will be sold at Phillips’ November auction in Geneva.  

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Infinity: Black Onyx Dial, Steel Case, And Vintage Flair Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Infinity Black Oct 5, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Infinity: Black Onyx Dial, Steel Case, And Vintage Flair

Girard-Perregaux plays cleverly off the intense blackness of the onyx dial of the Vintage 1945 Infinity by crafting the logo, hour indexes, and second hand in pink gold. To Martin Green's eye, the combination of the steel case with the pink and white metal hands creates an interesting dynamic that works very well in combination with the Vintage 1945 Infinity’s art deco design.

5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Bulgari Sep 29, 2020

5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta

This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R – No Skeletons In This Closet Deployant
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5180/1R – Sep 28, 2020

Review: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R – No Skeletons In This Closet

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R The Patek Philippe Calatrava is many things: elegant, dainty, simple, dressy, thin. One thing it is not, is exhibitionist – well, at least not until the Ref. 5180 came along. First available in white gold, Patek Philippe’s openworked wonder was, to say the least, polarising. But that didn’t stop theRead More

Why big men look “stunning” in small watches, starring the Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson, the ‘King’ Lebron James and Audemars Piguet Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Sep 26, 2020

Why big men look “stunning” in small watches, starring the Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson, the ‘King’ Lebron James and Audemars Piguet

The conversation kicked off with a comment by watch collector and dealer Eric Ku in the most recent Watch & Chill episode (skip to the timecode in the description). “I was obsessively watching this show Ballers… with the Rock. In this last season, [he] was wearing the purple Frosted Gold Royal Oak chrono. I distinctly remember him … ContinuedThe post Why big men look “stunning” in small watches, starring the Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson, the ‘King’ Lebron James and Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition: hands-on review Deployant
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Sep 26, 2020

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition: hands-on review

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer was first released in Baselworld 2009 with two versions – white and rose gold with silver dials. In Baselworld 2016, the watch was updated with a blue in-house manufactured dial. The 2020 version now comes with a new case design, noticeably the bezel and a differently finished movement. 

MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’ SJX Watches
Casio nally collaborations Sep 22, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’

Conceived as an imagined, 19th-century take on MB&F;’s uber-modern, sci-fi inspired Horological Machines, the Legacy Machines (LM) draw inspiration from the aesthetic of the era – and the works of Jules Verne – to create a steampunk-meets-classical-watchmaking timepiece. Now the spirit of the LM have been made tangible with the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’.  The series is limited to just eight watches in red gold, each featuring a dial depicting a scene from Verne’s novels, rendered in minute detail with the hand engraving of Eddy Jaquet, a Swiss artisan who has worked with an array of watchmakers but perhaps best known for his work on Voutilainen watches. Initial thoughts The new LM Split Escapement (SE) is a departure from the typical MB&F; watch, which usually emphasises technical aspects, like movement construction or finishing, or case design and materials (and occasionally collaborations with contemporary artists). Instead the new LM SE is all about artisanal craft, something that is familiar territory for independent watchmakers like Voutilainen but novel for MB&F;. Though such artistically decorated timepieces are not a traditional strength of MB&F;, the result is an attractive watch. The engraving is impressively done, and avoids appearing monochromatic thanks to its depth. The intricate, pictorial engraving also complements the style of the LM, making the whole greater than the sum of the parts. In fact, it can be argued that the original LM SE w...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 18, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001

Patek Philippe has just taken the covers off the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001, a medium-sized take on its original dual-time zone aviator’s watch. Originally launched in pink gold, and then in steel as a limited edition, the compact pilot is now available in white gold. Now very much a familiar part of the Calatrava range, the pilot’s watch was a surprise when it was first launched. A radically new design for the classical watch manufacturer when it debuted in 2015, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time sparked some controversy, mainly centred the generic aviator’s watch look and the oversized pushers. Several additional models later, the Calatrava Pilot is a full collection of watches, ranging from the time-only limited edition made for the New York Grand Exhibition to an alarm that chimes like a repeater, and now the mid-size Travel Time in white gold. Initial thoughts While the sporty look suits the original model with its large 42 mm case, the smaller case appeals to people with more traditional tastes or smaller wrists, making the new mid-size version an intuitive and complementary edition to the line. It’s essentially a more wearable version of an appealing watch. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time looks more youthful than the average Calatrava, though that’s changing with recent releases like the ref. 6007A, owing to the oversized numerals and large pushers. Still, in traditional Patek Philippe style, the overall feel is refined for a pilot’s wat...

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Santos or Ebel – Sep 14, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary

Originally just a model name for the bestselling watch of the brand MDM (short for Montre des Montres), Hublot got off the ground with one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that a first in combining yellow gold with a rubber strap. The brand is now 40 years old and a global success thanks to a late-in-life rejuvenation. To commemorate the occasion – which chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe hinted at in January – the brand has unveiled the sleek and simple Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary modelled on the original Hublot wristwatch of 1980. Minimalist in style, the anniversary watch sticks to the restrained look of the maritime-inspired original – hublot is French for “porthole” – but is substantially larger to cater to modern tastes. And like the original it is available in 18k yellow gold – combining the precious metal and rubber was a novelty in 1980 – but also in titanium or black ceramic. The 1980 model in steel (left) and the anniversary edition Initial thoughts While modern-day Hublot watches are often maximalist and sometimes over the top, the anniversary Classic Fusion is the opposite, a look that works well with the case and bezel. The 1980 original was a compact, pared-back watch that was at odds with the fashionable watches of the era – think two-tone Cartier Santos or Ebel – and proof that less is more. The dial of the remake sticks closely to the original, with a white-on-black date that is a welcome improvement. But the addition of ...

INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions Sep 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now)

Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models - in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO In ‘Tenet,’ The First Action Spectacle In Theaters Post COVID-19 Lockdowns Quill & Pad
Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Sep 12, 2020

Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO In ‘Tenet,’ The First Action Spectacle In Theaters Post COVID-19 Lockdowns

'Tenet' is not the first time Hamilton has collaborated with wristwatches on a Christopher Nolan movie; the first was The Murph created for 'Interstellar' back in 2014. And like 'Interstellar,' 'Tenet' uses time as one of its main themes, running like a gold thread through the complicated plot. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the Navy Khaki BeLOWZERO models that Hamilton created as a prop and as a limited edition release.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 9, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

Perhaps the most interesting watches of the “Homage to F. A. Lange” 175th Anniversary collection, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” is the only watch of the trio that is a distinctly new model. The thinnest split-seconds chronograph made by Lange to date, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is the first Lange chronograph in the gold alloy, a point of distinction enhanced by the uncommon black dial. Initial thoughts The 1815 Rattrapante is the first watch to feature the L101.2, a new movement that’s derived from the calibre in the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. Surprisingly slim for a highly-complicated Lange, its appeal is boosted by the high-contrast black dial with gold markings – always an attractive combination but one rarely found on a Lange wristwatches. That said, it is highly likely that the 1815 Rattrapante will make its way into the regular catalogue – chief executive Wilhelm Schmid explicitly declined to comment on that – which would not make this a one-off creation. The 175th anniversary trio Streamlined split Undoubtedly the most interesting watch in the line up, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is a brand-new model, though it is essentially a simplified version of the 1815 split-seconds with perpetual calendar. And it is the only watch in the trio that’s exclusive to Lange boutiques. Described by Mr de Haas as a split-seconds chronograph for the client who wants something slimmer and simpler than the flagship Triple Split...

INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit” Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner ref 122610LV – Aug 31, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit”

Green is known to be a special colour for Rolex. In recent eras, to buy a new Rolex sports watch that had any parts fabricated in this particular green you would have to secure a stainless steel Rolex Submariner “Hulk”, yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II, or yellow gold Rolex Daytona. It is usually quite rare … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner ref. 122610LV – the Ceramic “Kermit” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 and Massena Lab Introduce the Erwin LAB02 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aug 31, 2020

Habring2 and Massena Lab Introduce the Erwin LAB02

A year after the debut of the Erwin LAB01 in bronze, which sold out swiftly, Massena Lab has discreetly launched the followup. Announced only to “friends and family” via email, the Erwin LAB02 retains the familiar “sector” dial, but in a two-tone rose gold and silver finish. As with the first instalment, the LAB02 is made by Habring2 and designed by Massena Lab, a watch-creation studio founded by industry insider William Rohr. Initial thoughts Habring2 are always excellent value, and the Erwin LAB02 has the added appeal of having been designed by Mr Rohr, a veteran watch collector. Though the design is not novel – it is based on a vintage Patek Philippe – the look is extremely appealing, and it has been executed with a careful attention to detail, as evidenced by the textures of the dial for instance. While the original edition sold out in an instant, the LAB02 is a low-key launch, with the watches being delivered over a period of months, which makes it easier to land one. So it is accessible not just in price – a bit under US$6,500 – but availability, a useful thing when it comes to small-run limited editions. Vintage inspiration The new Erwin models itself on a 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 that had a similar, dual-colour dial. Illustrated Mr Rohr’s well-honed eye for detail, the dial of the Erwin is not just made up of twin colours, but also two surface finishes. The rose gold-plated chapter ring has a fine, concentric pattern, while the si...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Aug 27, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge

With its iconic complication being the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges – albeit one that is somewhat forgotten today – Girard-Perregaux has created a variety of simpler watches centred on the same concept of prominent movement bridges. The newly-launched Free Bridge is the latest to join the line up, and while it is superficially similar, it boasts an exotic silicon balance wheel (that was probably created with help from its sister company). Initial thoughts The Free Bridge has a modern, technical-looking aesthetic that is currently popular, but it is more than a faddish watch. That’s because it’s equipped with an intricate, extra-large balance wheel made of silicon, one that is far more advanced than everything else at this price point – with the exception of the Ulysse Nardin Freak X. Though not identical, the balance wheel is similar enough to the one in the Freak X that it becomes obvious the Free Bridge balance is derived from that in the Freak X, which is unsurprising since both watch brands are owned by luxury group Kering. The balance wheel makes the movement special from a technical perspective, and also makes the US$17,000 price tag easier to swallow. That said, the Free Bridge seems to sit in no man’s land – it is neither entirely classical nor modern, in contrast to the Freak X which is an out and out contemporary watch. As a result, the Free Bridge isn’t particularly outstanding visually, unlike the Freak X. Upgraded with a new balance The F...

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their dark side at Geneva Watch Days Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their Aug 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their dark side at Geneva Watch Days

Girard-Perregaux is not holding back at the Geneva Watch Days, launching their complete but limited Infinity Editions, a tempting collection set around the dark opulent theme of gold, polished black onyx and titanium. At first, it seems an incongruous marriage of past and future: the rarely seen deep gloss black of onyx associated with jewellery … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their dark side at Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot and Ferrari create new Esports series with Assetto Corsa, and a little help from their friend, Charles Leclerc Time+Tide
Hublot Aug 13, 2020

Hublot and Ferrari create new Esports series with Assetto Corsa, and a little help from their friend, Charles Leclerc

One of the most interesting things about the Coronavirus pandemic is how everyone has had to adapt to the new norm. Social distancing, working from home, Zoom catch-ups and stockpiling booze and toilet paper like it’s gold bullion. All part of a day’s work in 2020. It’s also been fascinating and, for the most part, … ContinuedThe post Hublot and Ferrari create new Esports series with Assetto Corsa, and a little help from their friend, Charles Leclerc appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The new DOXA SUB 300 is slimmer, COSC-certified and more refined than its tool watch origins Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300 Aug 11, 2020

HANDS-ON: The new DOXA SUB 300 is slimmer, COSC-certified and more refined than its tool watch origins

The meteoric resurrection of DOXA over the last 18 months has been both exciting and heartwarming to witness. What started out as a strong showing at Baselworld 2019 (think solid gold SUB 200T and SUB 200) has been followed by a succession of compelling offerings that neatly bridge the gap between heritage and contemporary watchmaking. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new DOXA SUB 300 is slimmer, COSC-certified and more refined than its tool watch origins appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.