Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

40,055 articles · 235 videos found · page 751 of 1343

Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim Fratello
Rolex Market Price Jan 21, 2024

Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim

Today, I’d like to share an interesting verdict from the Dutch Institute for Financial Disputes (Kifid) in a case between an insurance company (Achmea Schadeverzekeringen N.V.) and a consumer. The consumer had an insurance policy with an additional clause for valuable goods. Importantly, this additional insurance also covered the loss/theft of valuable goods outside the […] Visit Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Fratello
Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs Seiko Jan 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! We hope you woke up with a nice cup of coffee this Sunday morning and are ready to vote for your favorite watch in this week’s battle of the divers. This week, it’s going to be like David versus Goliath. In one corner, we have the new Formex Reef […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Formex Reef 39.5mm Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster to read the full article.

Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex Fratello
Citizen s Jan 20, 2024

Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex

When you read the name Zenith, what comes to mind? Radios? Televisions? Well, at one point in its history, the watch brand Zenith was owned by the Zenith Radio Corporation of America, so that’s not completely weird, especially if you’re American. But for non-US citizens and, in particular, watch-focused ones, Zenith means El Primero - […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex to read the full article.

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet Jan 19, 2024

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review

Raymond Weil, founded in 1975 by its eponym and now owned and operated by the Bernheim family, is one of only a handful of independently owned Swiss watchmaking companies, alongside historic, prestigious maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Geneva-based company, however, occupies a different niche than those two high-horology powerhouses, having firmly established itself as a purveyor of “affordable luxury”  - producing well-designed watches with wide appeal that nevertheless rarely gain attention in the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. That all changed in 2023, however, when the sublimely refined design of the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds model took the coveted Challenge award in the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève (GPHG), the watch world’s equivalent of the Oscars. With its sober but meticulously embellished sector dial and slender case, the watch represents a throwback to a style of understatedly elegant dress watch that few seem to be making anymore. I had a chance to wear one for a couple weeks for a hands-on review. (To get Teddy's video take on the watch on our dedicated Reviews channel, click here.) Case: The round stainless steel case of the Millesime (the term comes from the world of fine wine, and appropriately translates to “vintage”) will settle perfectly into many enthusiasts’ sweet spot, at 39mm in diameter, and its thickness of just under 11mm (10.9mm, to be super-precise) will ensure that it set...

Special Pen Spotlight Worn & Wound
Jan 19, 2024

Special Pen Spotlight

Our love of wristwatches is part of a greater passion for mechanical things of all kinds and sizes. On one end, analog cars capture our imaginations, while on the smaller side, something as simple as a well-executed ballpoint pen can also provide satisfaction. That’s exactly why we are dedicating today’s Chronicle to highlight a few of the pens from the Shop. Here are three we would happily use and recommend to family and friends. All three happen to also be featured in promotions and sales, so hop on over to the Windup Watch Shop Pen Page to discover these – and many more – today. If what you are looking for is out of stock, don’t sweat it; we are constantly checking and restocking pens. And, of course, remember to sign up for our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Our love of wristwatches is part of a greater passion for mechanical things of all kinds and sizes. On one end, analog cars capture our imaginations, while on the smaller side, something as simple as a well-executed ballpoint pen can also provide satisfaction. That’s exactly why we are dedicating today’s Chronicle to highlight a few of the pens from the Shop. Here are three we would happily use and recommend to family and friends. All three happen to also be featured in promotions and sales, so hop on over to the Windup Watch Shop Pen Page to discover these – and many more – today. If what you are looking for is out of stock, don’t sweat it; we are constantly checking and ...

Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II Fratello
Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Jan 19, 2024

Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II

British watchmaking has carved out a niche for itself thanks to a handful of strong brands leading the pack. And with the newest versions of the Fears Brunswick 40, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill attempts a daring feat. Together with top US retailer Topper, we are treated to a blend of Californian nature and British watchmaking. Many small […] Visit Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II to read the full article.

A Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes a Reality, Proving that Everyone Loves a Pizza Party Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes Jan 19, 2024

A Studio Underd0g April Fool’s Joke Becomes a Reality, Proving that Everyone Loves a Pizza Party

What do Canned Unicorn Meat, a Tauntaun Sleeping Bag, an Apple Store Playmobil set with optional Line Pack, and the Studio Underd0g 01 SERIES Chronograph Pepper0ni have in common? All of these were introduced first as April Fool’s pranks before eventually transforming into real products (except the Apple Store Playmobil set - still a little mad at that one never making the leap). Back in the halcyon days of the internet, ThinkGeek specialized in this sort of April Fool’s nonsense. Today, Studio Underd0g is joining forces with Time+Tide to bring a little bit of that fun back. You may remember that back in April, Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc (with some help from Time+Tide’s Andrew McUtchen) released a teaser video for another in the brand’s line of food-inspired watches. But where previous releases like the Watermel0n, Strawberries & Cream, or Pink Lem0nade have been mostly content to draw their bright color palettes from eponymous inspirations, the Pepper0ni promised a more… overt take on its namesake. While it quickly became apparent that the idea of a pizza-inspired 01SERIES Chronograph was meant as a one-off gag to celebrate the internet’s favorite holiday, apparently a huge number of you pizza/watch enthusiasts reached out asking after the watch. Now, nine months later, what was once a joke has become a reality - well, actually, two realities - because the real-life version of the Pizza Party chronograph comes in two distinct flavors: Pepper0n...

Hands-on - The Rectangular Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone in Rose Gold Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone Jan 19, 2024

Hands-on - The Rectangular Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone in Rose Gold

In 2019, Moritz Grossmann ventured into the scarcely populated territory of rectangular watches, unveiling three dial variants in five different versions as part of the Art Deco-inspired and appropriately named Corner Stone series. The Corner Stone featured a specially designed shaped calibre with a central hour and minutes display and a small seconds sub-dial at […]

Introducing - The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar SRPK75 & SRE014 with Gradient Dials Monochrome
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Jan 19, 2024

Introducing - The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar SRPK75 & SRE014 with Gradient Dials

Not a habitual fountain of inspiration, the dials of Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Time watches are inspired by Japan’s famous cocktail culture. If cocktails might not strike you as a typical Japanese product, the scenes filmed in the skyscraper bar of Lost in Translation reveal how consolidated the cocktail scene is in Tokyo and the extreme […]

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Worn & Wound
Rolex   Jan 18, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00

I think there’s a certain trajectory to watch collecting that the vast majority of enthusiasts will be familiar with. It’s been discussed at length, and might even represent something of a self fulfilling prophecy at this point. It goes something like this: you start out with the fan favorite affordables, dabble in big Swiss brands that take a depreciation hit and can be found readily on enthusiast buy/sell/trade platforms, discover the insane variety and value of microbrands, and then eventually, if it’s a brand that has meant something to you before you even knew that watch collecting was a thing, you wind up at Rolex.  This is vastly oversimplified of course, but a version of this has happened to me and many collectors I know personally. Muy own observation though is that it’s what happens next that really determines where you go in the hobby. Because there’s a path where you just keep acquiring Rolex sports watches like Pokemon. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that – they are objectively excellent watches to own. But I think a certain number of collectors have a Tony Soprano, late season 6 moment sometime after picking up that GMT-Master or Submariner, and ask themselves: is this all there is? $8000 Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Case Titanium Movement Schwarz-Etienne ASE200 Dial Plum Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 40.7 x 49mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Ye...

Exploring WatchCharts Marketplace, a New Watch Sales Platform Backed by Historical Pricing Data Worn & Wound
Jan 18, 2024

Exploring WatchCharts Marketplace, a New Watch Sales Platform Backed by Historical Pricing Data

An all too common refrain from watch collectors is that the experience of buying a watch can be something of a headache. While you might be wined and dined if you buy directly from the boutique of a high end luxury brand, the reality is that most of us are hounding forums and enthusiast marketplaces trying to score a deal. But with the open market comes a lot of uncertainty. How do you know if you’re getting a good deal? And how do you know if the person you’re chatting with is going to send you more than an empty box?  The WatchCharts Overall Market Index as of 1/17/24 WatchCharts, the watch market research platform whose primary goal is to bring price transparency to watch consumers, recently launched their own buying and selling platform that seeks to alleviate some of the stress. There are a lot of buying and selling platforms for watches, so the addition of one more to the growing matrix of watch shopping options isn’t necessarily newsworthy, but the involvement of WatchCharts adds a new wrinkle to something that is so familiar to watch collectors that it’s part of the very fabric of the hobby. On the surface, WatchCharts Marketplace looks like any other buy/sell/trade platform. But under the hood, it’s leveraging WatchCharts data that collectors who use the platform will already be familiar with. “We’ve dedicated the better part of five years to collecting, analyzing, and understanding watch market pricing and trends,” said WatchCharts founder Charle...

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch Fratello
Victorinox Knife Watch Even though Jan 18, 2024

#TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch

Even though it feels like wearing a bar of chocolate on your wrist, the Sicura Safari knife watch is a pure wonder. It had been a long time since I put it on my wish list, and I finally got one. I really thought it would be much easier to find it… I was wrong. […] Visit #TBT Going Wild With A Sicura Safari Victorinox Knife Watch to read the full article.

First Look - The New Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection Jan 18, 2024

First Look - The New Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection

Hamilton has a particularly rich history in the production of rugged tool watches. Starting with high-precision pocket watches for railroad companies in the late 19th and early 20th century, Hamilton went on to supply the U.S. Armed Forces and Navy in both World Wars with marine chronometers and robust wristwatches. With the advent of aviation, […]

Industry News - Richemont Reports Sales up by 8% For Third Quarter, Jewellery Taking the Lead over Watches Monochrome
Cartier IWC JLC Jan 18, 2024

Industry News - Richemont Reports Sales up by 8% For Third Quarter, Jewellery Taking the Lead over Watches

Switzerland-based luxury conglomerate Richemont Group has just issued its trading update for the nine months ended 31 December 2023. The group, which includes brands such as Cartier, IWC, JLC and Vacheron, reports sales up by 8% at constant exchange rates and by 4% at actual exchange rates to EUR 5.6 billion for the last quarter […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down Jan 18, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve

Jaeger-LeCoultre begins the new year with an enhanced version of one of its signature watches, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve. While largely maintaining the design of the existing model, the new variant has a new look with a pink gold case, more cohesive styling and most notably, an upgraded movement with silicon parts and a longer power reserve. Initial thoughts Although present in the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) catalogue for over two decades in one form or another, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve doesn’t get as much attention as its Master collection siblings, not to mention the famed Reverso. However, given the brand’s historical status as a vertically-integrated movement maker, the new Master Power Reserve plays to the JLC’s strengths since it retains the familiar design while installing all-new mechanics in the form of the cal. 938.  The update is a practical one, since the new calibre has a longer power reserve of three days. However, the update is not an accessible one from a price perspective, since this enhancement is currently exclusive to this boutique-only pink gold version and has not been extended to the steel model. The update will almost certainly make its way into the more affordable model some time in the future, so it’s a matter of waiting. JLC was historically known for its value-oriented pricing, an edge that has been dulled somewhat in recent years as its prices have crept upwards. This watch illustrates that, even if it is still priced ...

Delma Announces an Affordable Swiss Made Tourbillon to Celebrate their 100th Anniversary Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Jan 17, 2024

Delma Announces an Affordable Swiss Made Tourbillon to Celebrate their 100th Anniversary

Delma is celebrating its Centennial Anniversary in 2024. Family owned and operated in Lengnau, Switzerland, Delma watches has been in continuous production since its inception in 1924. To mark this tremendous milestone, they have created something quite special. Introducing the Delma 1924 Tourbillon. Yes, you read that correctly, a Tourbillon, limited to just 100 pieces. Historically, the Tourbillon complication has been reserved for ultra high-end watch brands to flex their horological muscles, while at the same time commanding equally high prices. In recent years, however, brands like Tag Heuer and Horage have brought these prices down to the realm of relative affordability. Delma wanted to do the same, while also making sure the movement was 100% Swiss. What is the big deal with Tourbillons? Simply put, the Tourbillon places the escapement and regulator within a rotating cage that revolves 360 degrees in 60 seconds, effectively negating any positional errors. Tourbillon calibers have a reputation for being rather delicate, and are often fitted to dress watches in precious metals. With the help of their Swiss supply partners, Delma has gone the extra mile to ensure these watches are shock resistant to 5000g and antimagnetic to 2000 gauss.  This sporty 41mm hand wound watch is made of 316L stainless steel and is nearly completely brushed, except for the beveled edges lining the top of the case. There is a display back, to admire the movement and it is fitted to a matchin...

Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock Worn & Wound
Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock Jan 17, 2024

Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock

Welcome to the latest Chronicle! Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we know as well as anyone that time-telling doesn’t stop with wristwatches, and today’s piece is part of a larger series covering clocks and other non-watch timing instruments. Somewhat overlooked and underappreciated, wall clocks are far more than simple background pieces; they are functional decor with the ability to tie a space together while adding a touch of personalization. Today’s spotlight is on a special Seiko that is at once familiar and refreshing. Get your command hooks and hammer and nails ready, and let’s take a closer look. Welcome to the latest Chronicle! Here at the Windup Watch Shop, we know as well as anyone that time-telling doesn’t stop with wristwatches, and today’s piece is part of a larger series covering clocks and other non-watch timing instruments. Somewhat overlooked and underappreciated, wall clocks are far more than simple background pieces; they are functional decor with the ability to tie a space together while adding a touch of personalization. Today’s spotlight is on a special Seiko that is at once familiar and refreshing. Get your command hooks and hammer and nails ready, and let’s take a closer look. The post Special Clock Highlight: Seiko Watch Dial Wall Clock appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date SJX Watches
Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Jan 17, 2024

Oris Introduces Cricket-Themed Big Crown Pointer Date

Oris gives its signature model a subtle makeover with the Big Crown Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration with Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC). This release commemorates the pair’s three-year collaboration that began in 2022 and combines a 40 mm bronze case with a creamy white dial. Initial thoughts The Big Crown Father Time is best described as a cricket-themed variation of the bronze Big Crown Pointer Date. The cricket element, however, is subtle and practically absent from the dial, which is not a bad thing since it gives the watch the widest possible appeal. Setting aside the cricket theme, the contrast between the dial elements and the dial itself is appealing. The watch stands out in terms of legibility due to this contrast. The cathedral hands and extra-large crown add a nice touch that evoke vintage Oris models. And though I’m typically a fan of fluted bezels, this one works well. This is equipped with a Sellita SW 200-1 instead of an in-house movement. However, with a retail price of US$3,100, it is still acceptable value. “Father Time” Sitting on top of the clock tower, Father Time is the weathervane at Lord’s Cricket Ground and was gifted to MCC in 1926 by architect Sir Herbert Baker. Because Lord’s is the “Home of Cricket”, and the MCC once the sport’s governing body, Father Time is one of the globally recognised symbols of the sport. The Big Crown Pointer Date, on the other hand, is synonymous with Oris. Introduced in 1938 as a pilot’...

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon It’s Jan 17, 2024

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon

It’s proving to be a bumper crop year for dragon-themed watches, and brands from all walks of life are deploying their creativity to create something inspiring for the upcoming Year of the Dragon. While it’s only natural to associate Roger Dubuis‘ Excalibur collection with the wonderfully over-the-top Arthurian-inspired Knights of the Round Table editions, it […]

The Marlin Jet is a Sleek New Addition to a Classic Timex Collection Worn & Wound
Timex Collection Jan 16, 2024

The Marlin Jet is a Sleek New Addition to a Classic Timex Collection

The 1960s stands out as one of the most influential decades in shaping modern design and culture. Two decades into post-War America, the ’60s embodied hope, opportunity, and expansion. This transformative era not only aimed for the moon but also ushered in a jet-setting culture that offered a fresh, futuristic perspective on classic mid-century design. Drawing inspiration from this dynamic period, the Marlin Jet, the latest addition to the Marlin line, encapsulates the essence of the ’60s. True to the Marlin lineage, the Jet seamlessly blends contemporary and retro design elements into a versatile daily-wear timepiece. With a modest 38mm size, this watch effortlessly transitions from day to evening, fitting under a suit jacket or hoodie without losing its sense of style. Beyond its brushed 38mm stainless steel case, the Marlin Jet’s allure lies in the domed Hesalite crystal, a defining feature that adds a new dimension to Timex’s retro-futuristic vision. This crystal spans the entire top surface, smoothly integrating into the flat case sides and leaving only the lugs exposed. The transition from the case sides to the case back mirrors the crystal’s dome, creating a coherent case profile and adding significantly to an aesthetic that is reminiscent of what “futuristic” looked like in the Jet Age. Additional design highlights include the silver-white concave dial, featuring a crosshair pattern and a 24-hour format sub-dial beside the 9 o’clock marker, bringing...

Parmigiani’s Mastery Showcased in Dragon Chiming-Automaton Clock SJX Watches
Ming Automaton Clock Originally presented Jan 16, 2024

Parmigiani’s Mastery Showcased in Dragon Chiming-Automaton Clock

Originally presented in 2012 to that Year of the Dragon – and reputedly priced at over US$3 million at the time – the Parmigiani Le Dragon et la Perle du Savoir has been restored just in time for this Year of the Dragon that soon begins in February 2024. Now renamed Tempus Fugit, the automaton made up of a dragon chasing a flaming pearl, a traditional motif in Chinese culture. Initial thoughts This exemplifies Parmigiani’s mastery of ultra-high-end automatons and clocks that were a key part of its offerings in the 1990s. During that period, only Parmigiani and Gerald Genta specialised in such extraordinary creations. Although this was produced in 2012, it certainly evokes the sculptural automaton clocks of that earlier period. Such extravagant automatons clocks are rare today – only Van Cleef & Arpels regularly creates such one-offs now – but are undeniably impressive. Like its peers, the dragon automaton combines goldsmithing, gem-setting, automata construction, and of course clockmaking, all techniques mastered by Parmigiani thanks to its restoration department, which was historically the best in Switzerland. Naturally, the brand’s affordable and relatively more ordinary wristwatch offerings don’t possess the same extravagant craft, but it is good to know the scope of the brand’s capabilities. The dragon chasing a pearl A familiar motif in Chinese folklore, the dragon chasing a flaming pearl represents the pursuit of wisdom, prosperity, or power. Here it ...

Introducing - The Unexpected Delma 1924 Tourbillon, Marking the Brand’s 100th Anniversary Monochrome
Jan 16, 2024

Introducing - The Unexpected Delma 1924 Tourbillon, Marking the Brand’s 100th Anniversary

Delma has rightfully earned its recent reputation for producing highly capable, functional, and accessible dive watches. However, the brand’s history, tracing back to its establishment in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town, reveals a broader range of offerings […]

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star Worn & Wound
Ming little more than Jan 15, 2024

Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star

I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances Jan 15, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Enhances the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve with Subtle Updates

Many in the watch community are predicting that 2024 will be year where we see a wider adoption of avant-garde and modern design as the pendulum continues to swing away from vintage inspired classicism. This is a good thing, and worth celebrating. But there will always be a market for elegant, classic designs. The kind that have been nailed down and perfect for decades, and define the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mentality. There isn’t a brand out there that is more in tune with this style of watchmaking than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Similar to Rolex, they iterate slowly, and don’t adhere to the (false) notion that buzzy new releases are required as part of an industry cycle. They just kind of do their thing, and it almost always results in a beautiful object. Their latest, the Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, is familiar in many ways but has several small changes that make it even more refined.  Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra thin watches are a niche of a niche unto themselves. For years, even before the current Thinness Wars really took shape, JLC has been adept at getting the best possible performance from impossibly thin movements, and taking advantage of their diminutive dimensions by housing them in exceedingly well designed watches that take full advantage of their size. For the new Master Ultra Thin Power Reserve, JLC’s Caliber 938 has been reworked slightly to increase the total power reserve to a healthy 70 hours without drastically changing the movement...

The Wild New Behrens Orion One Worn & Wound
Behrens Orion One Behrens 2012 Jan 15, 2024

The Wild New Behrens Orion One

Behrens 2012 is one of the most exciting young brands working in the ever growing affordable avant-garde space. Based in China, Behrens has developed a cult following as of late, riding primarily on the strength of the impressive “Ultralight,” a futuristic design that is typical of their house aesthetic, weighing in just 20 grams. Given the Ultralight’s impressive specs and unique design, the $7,600 price tag feels almost like a bargain, but a look through the Behrens catalog reveals that they have a number of gems at prices that are truly affordable. Their latest watch, the Orion One Automatic, is a little more approachable in terms of price point, but is perhaps the brand’s most outlandish design yet. It’s yet another example of a watchmaking aesthetic that was previously reserved for six figure timepieces working its way down into the affordable segment.  The case of the Orion One recalls something between a spaceship and what you’d see under the hood of a modern supercar. It’s the kind of thing that barely resembles a watch, at first, but reveals its form and complexity as you observe it. The first thing you notice is likely the array of gears under the sapphire crystal window at the top of the case, where you’d normally find a dial. Here, the only time telling function is a running seconds hand at the center.  Time is read through a “twin roller” time display system at the 6:00 position. It’s fairly intuitive, but in a position that you’re li...

Introducing - The Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, with Green Enamel Dial for 2024 Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar Jan 15, 2024

Introducing - The Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, with Green Enamel Dial for 2024

In 2012, Blancpain introduced the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, an extremely complex watch fusing the Chinese and Gregorian calendars, complete with a moon phase complication that coincided with the Year of the Dragon. Twelve years have passed, and the dragon is back in the limelight again. To mark this twelve-year cycle, Blancpain’s latest interpretation of […]

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...