Teddy Baldassarre
New Seiko Presage Classic Watches In 38mm With Silk-Inspired Dials
Seiko debuts four Presage Classic models in a new 38mm wide case with textured dials inspired by silk.
Results for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco
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Teddy Baldassarre
Worn & Wound
ochs und junior Introduces the “anno sandblasted” Annual Calendar
Despite my besten Bemühungen, when it comes to learning the German language, I’ve never found it to be very einfach, dear reader. But I haven’t let that cloud my judgment with German and Swiss brands. Especially those with Teutonic-sounding names like ochs und junior. Now hitting the two-decade mark since it was founded in 2006, the Swiss brand’s latest release shows it has no interest in stepping outside of its distinct design language of highly stylized, stripped-down watches with a clear “Weniger ist mehr” philosophy. We see this throughline in the new anno sandblasted. Available in 39mm and 42mm case sizes, this release upgrades the brand’s existing annual calendar with a sandblasted dial. But as you can see, the calendar display is undeniably the most eye-catching part of this watch, creating something that is just as much about the form of the watch itself as it is about the function. Even so, at first glance, it may be a bit hard to understand (not unlike the genitive case, but I’m not bitter…). To do this, the Ludwig Oechslin designed annual calendar replaces conventional windows and text displays with a series of holes read directly (and I’m told “intuitively”) from the dial. The 31 holes around the perimeter show the date, with the ten-minute markers acting as five-day reference points. For example, the 30-minute marker also marks the 15th day of the month. A smaller group of seven holes shows the weekday, while 12 holes show the month, b...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Tudor Monarch
Tudor marks its 100th birthday by reviving the Monarch with a completely new look — one that captures the spirit of the brand’s founding decade, reinterpreted for the 21st century. The Monarch manages to be both sporty and dressy, with a distinctive design and upmarket build that proves Tudor has aspirations beyond the Black Bay. Initial thoughts Tudor turns 100 stronger than it’s ever been. The brand that once trafficked in cheaper versions of Rolex models can now bring compelling products like this to market with impressive regularity. That said, the brand tends to be at its best when it comes to sports watches like the Black Bay — what Tudor calls its ‘classic watches’ have had less market impact. In this context, the Monarch represents a major step forward for Tudor. It’s dressy without looking derivative, and robust enough for everyday wear. In short, the Monarch rules. Image – Tudor Much of Tudor’s current collection takes heavy inspiration from its deep back catalogue. That isn’t the case for the Monarch, which shares nothing with the 1990s and 2000s Monarchs save for the name and shield at 12 o’clock. Instead, the Monarch’s design celebrates the earliest years of Tudor — the 1920s — which was a transitional period in which wristwatch production had not yet equalled that of pocket watches. Watchmakers at the time weren’t yet sure what kinds of wristwatches people wanted, and the era is marked by expressive and experimental designs. Beca...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Citizen's New "The Citizen" And Attesa Recrystalized Titanium Limited Edition Eco-Drives
What We Know Citizen recently announced two new limited-edition models as part of its celebration of the 50th Anniversary of its light-powered Eco-Drive movements. For those not in the know, Eco-Drive relies on any light source—not just solar—to power the movement and build a pretty impressive power reserve (in most cases). That adage holds true for the watches that they released most recently. Let's start with the one that will probably resonate the most with our audience: the new limited-edition version of "The Citizen." Limited to only 400 pieces, the watch features a relatively classic case design, measuring 40mm by 12.2mm, with the brand's proprietary Super Titanium case treated with Duratect Platinum. This is capped by what the brand calls its deep indigo-blue Tosa washi paper dial, with gold-colored (not true gold) accents on the applied indices and date surround. Washi paper, a special type of Japanese mulberry paper, was hand-dyed using natural lye fermentation to create a deep indigo color while preserving the paper's texture. More specifically, the color, called Kachi-iro, is a deep shade of indigo that is traditionally considered lucky because it is pronounced in the same way as the word for "victory color." Inside the case is the Cal. A060 Eco-Drive movement. When fully powered up, it has 18 months of power when in power-save mode. In addition to hours, minutes, and seconds (and hands and indices with lume), the movement has a clever perpetual calendar set...
Monochrome
Introducing – Bremont is Back to Military-Approved Watches with the HMAF Collection
Bremont’s lineup of rugged pilot and military tool watches has earned the British brand commissions for bespoke watches for military personnel and specialist groups around the world. Since 2019, Bremont has been permitted to use the signs, symbols and heraldic badges of the Ministry of Defence’s (MoD) three armed services – the Royal Navy, the […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Best Affordable Dive Watches If You’re Tired of the Seiko Turtle
Explore the best alternatives to the Seiko Turtle when you want a different, affordable diver. See how the models fare across durability, lume, value, and more.
Monochrome
First Look – The New-Generation Ulysse Nardin Freak X; Smaller, More Versatile and with new Movement
In 2019, Ulysse Nardin launched the Freak X. More compact, more accessible and equipped with a conventional crown, it retained the essence of the original Freak (no hands, no dial, and no crown) introduced in 2001 by visionary watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, while adapting it for everyday wear and a broader clientele. Now, as the manufacture […]
Monochrome
Industry News – The EPHJ 2026, Where the Future of Watchmaking Takes Shape Behind The Scenes
Every June, Geneva becomes the meeting point for the world of high precision. Held annually at Palexpo (June 16 to 19, for the 2026 edition), the EPHJ trade show brings together more than 20,000 visitors and over 800 exhibitors from the watchmaking, jewellery, microtechnology and medical technology sectors, making it the largest high-precision industry exhibition […]
Worn & Wound
Enthusiast Spotlight: Tom Place Talks Stunt Work, Watches, Gear & Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical 36 mm
For stuntman Tom Place, watches aren’t simply accessories. They’re tools with a purpose. They also serve as reminders of the people, stories, and qualities that have shaped his life and career. Those qualities of perseverance and passion are at the heart of Hamilton’s America 250 celebration, and you’ll have a chance to experience them firsthand […]
Fratello
Moonwatch Dials: The Most Expensive Book I’ve Ever Bought
It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for the Omega Speedmaster, and over the years, I’ve collected several of them. But beyond the watches, I also find myself collecting Moonwatch-related items, such as old catalogs, pins, pens, boxes, and books. To date, the best book on the topic is Moonwatch Only. From the […] Visit Moonwatch Dials: The Most Expensive Book I’ve Ever Bought to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Angelus Instrument de Mesures – Three Vintage-Inspired Scales, Modernized
What We Know Angelus is bringing back one of my favorite traditional chronograph designs with the new multi-scale Instrument de Mesures. The new version of their 2025 GPHG Chronograph award-winning monopusher features three scales for telemeter, tachymeter, and pulsometer, and comes in a black or white dial, harkening back to early 1930s and 1940s chronograph designs where chronographs were pure utility. Powered by the manually-wound A5000 movement, a version of a La Joux-Perret 5000-4 (a movement manufacturer which is under the same ownership umbrella as Angelus), the watch measures 39mm by 9.25mm with a stainless steel case and display caseback, a single co-axial crown pusher for the chronograph, and 30m of water resistance. The movement has a 42-hour power reserve and runs at 3Hz. If the movement architecture looks familiar, LJP owns the rights to the famous THA monopusher movement. The telemeter scale allows you to calculate distance by measuring the time between when you observe something and when you hear it. The tachymeter, of course, allows you to measure speed over a distance. And the pulsometer allows you to check your heart rate. Combining all three can be a mess of a thing, but long ago, the watch world settled on this beautiful stacked set of scales with a snailed, swirling effect. The watch also features lume at the hour markers, hidden in the three scales. The new Angelus Instrument de Mesures is limited to 25 pieces in each dial version and retails for ...
SJX Watches
Obituary: Philippe Stern, Pivotal Leader of Patek Philippe
Philippe Stern, who served as general director and later president of Patek Philippe from 1977 to 2009, died yesterday at the age of 88. Under his stewardship, the Geneva manufacture was transformed from a small, workshop-scattered operation into the global benchmark for fine watchmaking, a position it holds to this day. He was the third generation of the Stern family to lead the company. His grandfather Charles, alongside his brother Jean, had acquired Patek Philippe from insolvency in 1932 from their position as the firm’s trusted dial supplier. His father Henri had built the company’s modern international distribution network and established the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York, laying the commercial foundations on which Philippe would build. Father and son, Henri and Philippe Stern. Image – Patek Philippe Philippe Stern became managing director in 1977, at the height of the quartz crisis. The timing could not have been more demanding. Swiss watch industry employment was collapsing, from roughly 90,000 workers to a fraction of that figure within a few years, as electronic timekeeping rendered the mechanical watch commercially marginal almost overnight. Many established manufacturers collapsed, merged, or abandoned mechanical production entirely. Stern’s response defined his presidency. He kept the tooling, retained his engineers, and committed Patek Philippe irrevocably to mechanical watchmaking at the precise moment the industry consensus ran in the opposit...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
14 Best Watches With Excellent Legibility That Won’t Make You Squint
After hands-on testing, these field, pilot, digital, and tool watches stood out for making the time easy to read without fuss.
Hodinkee
“La Pilota” – A New Tudor Film Tells the Story Of A Record-Setting Aviator and Her Watches
In Greek mythology, there is the well-known story of Icarus, a heady youth whose lofty aspirations send him flying on homemade wings of feathers and wax. In its cautionary denouement, Icarus flies too high and gets too close to the sun, melting the wax, sending him crashing back to Earth. If Carina Massone Negrone knew the story of Icarus, she would also likely have known that the greater the altitude, the danger is not the sun's heat but extreme cold and a lack of oxygen. And yet, in 1935, the Italian aviator set an altitude record in an open-cockpit piston-powered airplane that remains unbroken to this day. Tudor has just debuted a short documentary film about Negrone, called "La Pilota: The Daring Story of Marchesa Carina Massone Negrone", which covers the flying pioneer's remarkable life and the watches—Tudors, of course—that she wore. Carina Massone Negrone was a "marchesa," a noblewoman by her marriage to a marquise, and could have enjoyed a life of ease in her palazzo in Genova. But her adventurous spirit compelled her to pursue activities that might have seemed "unladylike" in 1930s Italy. She was an avid swimmer and skier and fished the Mediterranean for sharks. And in 1933, at the age of 22, she took flying lessons from an Italian fighter pilot and became the first woman to get her pilot's license from the Reale Unione Nazionale Aeronautica. Only a year later, she set an altitude record for a seaplane by flying to 5,544 meters. But she wasn't done yet—far f...
Hodinkee
Breaking News: F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance Achieves $13.9 Million – Becomes Fifth Most Expensive Wristwatch Ever Sold
It felt inevitable. Just over six months after an F.P. Journe narrowly missed joining a certain historic list of wristwatches dominated by Patek Philippe and Rolex with the $10.75 million sale of Francis Ford Coppola's personal FFC at Phillips New York (a record for the brand), one finally reached that rarified air. François-Paul Journe invented it. He made it. The market made it historic. The F.P. Journe Souscription Chronomètre à Résonance no. 007 is now the fifth-most expensive wristwatch ever sold and the third-most expensive watch sold not for charity. Arguably Journe's most important and emblematic model, a confluence of details made this example—which crossed the auction block on Saturday, June 13—the one to own, at least according to bidders. To the tune of almost $14 million, no less. In some ways, it seems the perfect cap to a wild shift in the market where, in less than a year, F.P. Journe has become more closely watched than other previously preferred blue-chip brands and references. And yet, the market is so hot that there were a number of remarkable results from the New York, Geneva, and Hong Kong auctions. Not for nothing, but a Patek Philippe 5004 is now a $5 million watch, not only blowing out the previous non-charity record ($1.5 million for Michael Ovitz's platinum example, which was sold last fall), but eclipsing the 5004T for OnlyWatch (which sold for $4 million, give or take, back in 2013). And the fresh-to-market pink gold, satin-cased Pate...
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026
Oh yes, indeed, it is already Sunday again! Time flies, doesn’t it? The one upside of life rushing by is that it is already time for another Sunday Morning Showdown, our weekly highlight. This week, Thomas and Daan throw two minimalist, design-first dress watches into the ring. Thomas puts forward the classic Nomos Tangente Neomatik […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Revival of a Charming Chimer with the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater
Unveiled by Angelus at Watches & Wonders 2026, the Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater is a re-edition of the brand’s pioneering mid-century automatic, waterproof quarter repeater wristwatch, which was already a rarity in its day. Engaging sight, sound and touch, we’re going hands-on with the more luxurious, 15-piece limited edition of this charming chiming revival piece […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The Norqain Wild One Skeleton X-Lite & Wild One Skeleton Chrono
Since their official launch in the UK in 2025, Norqain has been on a tear. The brand is growing here and abroad, which says something in the current climate. Sure, the watches are a luxurious expenditure, but they’re fun, wearable, and capable. Today, I’ll briefly share some hands-on thoughts on two recently released Wild One […] Visit Hands-On: The Norqain Wild One Skeleton X-Lite & Wild One Skeleton Chrono to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Grand Seiko Masterpiece, A Patek 570, A Certina DS, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Uniplan
It's somehow nearly halfway through June, and your reward is a chance for a breather with a few interesting watches to distract you from the heat. While, to my knowledge, Hodinkee has no specific editorial policy for supporting sports teams, given that it's a New York-based publication, it feels only fair to note that I hope the NBA Finals conclude tomorrow and the Knicks get their (long-overdue) chip, and I hope the long-suffering fans get a chance to absolutely freak out. Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Cartier pocket watch sold for €3,980, the Explorer sold, but the auctioneer didn't list the price and hasn't answered my email yet, the Gruen Techno Quadrant sold for €1,300, the Tudor Ranger II for €1,600, the Broad Arrow Polerouter for £6,200, and the Railmaster did not sell. On to the main course. Strays Photo courtesy Dannenberg. If you're looking for ways to jump-start a relationship with a local watchmaker, or if you're simply in the mood for what promises to be an equally fun and maddening series of projects, here's a tantalizing box of Valjoux 72 parts/movements/dials/cases (if yes on chronographs but no on that particular option, here's a box of Tissot parts and here's one of Lemania and Valjoux parts). Crazy for LIP watches? It's your lucky day (well, technically, next Friday is). Photo courtesy Finarte. Perhaps you, like me, have felt an odd urge toward asymmetric watches of late; if so, this Vacheron Constantin should get your motor running, and, ...
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches — Lex’s Picks From Dennison, Panerai, And Certina (Again)
The heat is on once again. The Fratello team members will share the best summer watches according to them, and I’ll kick off the hottest series of the year. I’ve picked the best summer watches I could find, ranging from sub-€1k to above €10k and beyond. Sun’s out, watches out! I’m not sure if it’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches — Lex’s Picks From Dennison, Panerai, And Certina (Again) to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-05 36MM Blue Diamond Eagle Diamond
Lately, no matter where I turn, I feel that I’m confronted with small watches, with exotic dials, and, with increasing frequency, set with diamonds or precious stones of some kind. It’s a well established trend at this point across both very high end luxury brands and more accessible fare, so it should never really be a surprise when a watchmaker takes a stab at something small and blingy. What is sometimes interesting to clock, however, is how a brand positions a watch like this, because there are multiple clear strategies and I think it’s interesting to consider what it says about the brand depending on the route they take. Watches in this category, or watches that bump against this category, tend to be watches that can traditionally be marketed toward women exclusively. If they’re relatively small and set with diamonds, they can be seen as inherently feminine, almost across the board. Some brands, however, lean into the current moment that is seeing men and women appreciate watches in this category. Bell & Ross, who have just released the BR–05 36MM Blue Diamond Eagle Diamond (yes, that’s the actual name of the watch) have taken the former approach. The watch “asserts a femininity that is both timeless and contemporary,” according to their press release. The Blue Diamond Eagle Diamond (let’s go with BDED from here on out, an acronym that will almost certainly never be repeated in these pages) is a new take on the just released (in March) BR-05 36 mm ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Urwerk UR-120 Blue Planet Is The Collection’s Closing Chapter
Whenever Urwerk bids farewell to one of its watches, you know they will give it a special send-off. In the past, we’ve seen some excellent final salutes, such as the UR-10 SpaceMeter Blue, the UR-230 Black Star and the excellent UR-220 RG. And today it’s time to bid adieu to one of Urwerk’s coolest space-inspired […]
Monochrome
First Look – The New Angelus Instrument de Mesures, Three Historic Chronograph Scales in One
Throughout all its phases of life, Angelus has been responsible for several milestones in wristwatch history, including some of the earliest chronographs with calendar indications. Its robust eight-day movements famously found their way into vintage Panerai watches. Succumbing to the quartz crisis, the brand’s revival began in 2011 under La Joux-Perret’s ownership. In recent years, […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Hodinkee Magazine Volume 16
It's summer in NYC. The Knicks are up 2-1 in the Finals. The pace has slowed a touch with the warmer weather, but the cold brew is still coursing through our veins, and society is sorting itself into two camps: people who stand in line for Dot Cake and those who do not. You can draw your own conclusions there. In other words, the city is immaculate right now. At Hodinkee HQ, that can only mean one thing: it's time for our new summer issue. Transatlantic by Design: How Tiffany & Co.'s watchmaking has always moved between New York and Switzerland, by Malaika Crawford. Volume 16 arrives with two covers. One celebrates Tiffany & Co.'s new Timer while looking back through the brand's remarkable watchmaking archives. The other marks 100 years of the Rolex Oyster with one of our most ambitious Reference Points to date, a deep dive into the Oyster Perpetual and the enduring influence of Rolex's most foundational watch. Written by former Hodinkee editor and Bring A Loupe alumnus, Rich Fordon. Reference Points: Rolex Oyster Perpetual by Rich Fordon. 100 years of the Oyster case proves a blueprint for everything Rolex does. Elsewhere, Nora Taylor spends time with Knicks guard Josh Hart, discussing basketball, collecting, and the watches that have accompanied him throughout his career. Independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi contributes a personal essay on craft, responsibility, and the act of building something intended to outlast its maker. Then Jason Heaton revisits the legend o...
Monochrome
First Look – The New MB&F; HM12 The Guardian, A Sci-Fi Horological Machine with a Robot Companion
Childhood imagination and science fiction to inspire high-end watchmaking? Why not, and MB&F; is proof that it can be a successful combination. Since the launch of HM1 in 2007, Maximilian Büsser’s concept laboratory has consistently transformed memories of spaceships, supercars, aircraft and robots into complex mechanical creations for the wrist. Some of the brand’s memorable […]
Monochrome
First Look – The DUG Glashutte Purist Typ 2 Is Good-Old Honest Watchmaking
If there’s one epicentre of watchmaking outside of Switzerland that can measure itself with Le Locle or the Vallée du Joux, it’s Glashütte. This small region in the far east of Germany was once known for its rich iron ore deposits and very active mining culture. But as deposits ran dry and prosperity dwindled, people […]
Monochrome
First Look – The DUG Glashütte Purist Typ 1 Is Good-Old Honest Watchmaking
If there’s one epicentre of watchmaking outside of Switzerland that can measure itself with Le Locle or the Vallée du Joux, it’s Glashütte. This small region in the far east of Germany was once known for its rich iron ore deposits and very active mining culture. But as deposits ran dry and prosperity dwindled, people […]
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With Cartier’s Most Versatile Santos de Cartier Yet?
I take Cartier’s titanium version of the Santos de Cartier hands-on to see if it really is the more versatile option in the brand’s signature collection. What We Love: A fresh take on a Cartier icon Much more suited as a daily wearer Light, robust and still has a sense of elegance What We Don’t: No open caseback for the 1847 MC movement Price point may feel high compared to other sports watches that also showcase movement Would love to see more dial colours for variation Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s not every day that we see Cartier venture outside the norm with the Santos de Cartier collection. For years, this collection has been one of the more appealing sporty-dressy everyday watches on the market, bringing together sporty proportions, a clean dial aesthetic, and a bracelet design that wraps beautifully around the wrist. But what has made it such a standout and appealing choice is that unmistakable Cartier charm: refined, instantly recognisable, and versatile enough to sit somewhere between a sports watch with dressy appeal and a daily wearer. The Santos’s history goes all the way back to 1904. As the story goes, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a practical way to tell the time while flying. Rather than having to reach for a pocket watch mid-flight, which was the norm at the time, Santos-Dumont wanted something tha...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink”
Patek Phillippe’s 2026 collection is diverse, but one of my favourites is paradoxically one of the least novel: the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016 with a metallic “sand beige” dial and rose gold case. This is merely a new dial for a model that’s been in the collection for 20 years so it is not genuinely novel – though the movement has been upgraded and improved over that period – but it is appealing. The new ref. 5396R is handsome, and importantly, subtly evocative of vintage “pink on pink” watches, which pairs well with its traditional layout. Initial thoughts For anyone who likes old-school Patek Philippe design, the new ref. 5396R is likely the best looking annual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Both the colour and style are classic with a capital “C”. Ironically, it is perhaps the least interesting because neither the design nor movement are new, but this illustrates the fact that the appeal of a watch is more than just intrinsic feature and specs. Good looks, however, come at a price. The new ref. 5396R costs CHF54,000, or about US$67,000. It’s expensive but not outrageously so compared to the competition. For example, it’s about 5% pricier than the recent Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar, which is a better watch in most tangible respects, but not quite as pretty as the Patek Philippe. The premium pricing reflects Patek Philippe’s privilege as it has both the status and history to price as it desires – which the brand deserves. But ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition
What We Know Among collectors I know and respect, Chopard has been somewhat quietly picking up steam. The launch of a dateless L.U.C. 1860 with a rosy salmon-toned dial in 2023 was a bit of a turning point, bringing the model—compact and beautifully finished—to a broader audience, and with it, Chopard. Revolution was early to the party with its own limited edition, featuring untreated 3N yellow gold and a Lucent Steel case. For that release, the dials were made by Metalem, which makes the dials for Philippe Dufour's Simplicity. Now, the idea is back with a new model with similar dial treatment, with a twist. The new L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-Edition comes 26 years after the groundbreaking Quattro model, which featured a 9-day power reserve. This time, the same untreated 3N yellow gold dial is made in-house by the Chopard team, while the watch is still cased in Chopard's proprietary Lucent steel. There is a power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock, small seconds, and a date at 6 o'clock. The hour and minute hands are high-polished dauphine shapes with kite-shaped applied hour markers that have a faceted mirror-polished finish. One of the reasons that collectors value Chopard's L.U.C line so much isn't just the quality of the function of the movements, but the quality of the finishing. Yes, the caliber 98.01-L movement doesn't have sharp edges for interior angles like has become so popular these days, but the Côtes de Genève and anglage are still sublime. The four large...