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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 30, 2021

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On - Reprise

Late in 2015 the news came through that A.H.C.I. co-founder Svend Andersen had sold his company. But how did Andersen get here? Let's take a quick tour of more than half a century's worth of independent horology the Danish way to find out, which includes an extravaganza of worldtimers, unusual erotic watches, and even poker-playing dogs.

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Revolution
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Jun 29, 2021

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Wei Koh gives his initial takes on the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, which takes its lead from the first iteration of the Bronze watch, with a brown dial and bezel insert. He walks us through the creation process of the bronze-aluminium alloy they use, also demonstrating the new clasp on the bracelet called T-Fit, which allows the wearer to alter the length by 8mm quickly and without the need for any tools.

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Original Revealed WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Original Revealed Let’s Jun 29, 2021

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Original Revealed

Let’s rewind a little, back to 2019. Zenith was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the El Primero and presented a box of 3 watches limited to 50 sets. Included in the set was the highly sought after A386 re-edition in steel. The only way to get your hands on this piece was to buy the box set, which came with a fourth slot for a forth-coming “1/1000th of a second” chronograph, to be released at a later time. Yes there were other A386 anniversary editions that can be had separately, but they came in precious metal. What people wanted was the steel A386. Zenith kept teasing the market with various versions of it, but not the exact iconic version that was released in 1969, as one of the first to house this ground-breaking chronograph movement.  Then in 2020, the Manufacture edition dropped, with a prototype dial that was found in a little box up in the attic where Charles Vermot hid the tools, parts, and plans to build the El Primero back in 1975. The idea was that you could only purchase the Manufacture edition when you visit the Zenith Manufacture. Sort of like a gift shop purchase at the end of the tour. It would be extremely difficult to come by as you’d have to have made the trip to Switzerland to pick one up.  Look, we gotta give it up to the product designers and planners. hats off to Romain Marietta, who probably has one of the best jobs in the industry. This was a superb idea. This guaranteed exclusivity and collectability. But then we all knew what happene...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Peren Nera Rogue is a future-proof take on a mythical 60s diver Time+Tide
Jun 27, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Peren Nera Rogue is a future-proof take on a mythical 60s diver

Gone rogue: UK / US /adjective: “Behaving in ways that are not expected or not normal.” You might think this a tough-talking opening pitch, but when you add the back story of the Peren brand and the new Peren Nera Rogue, it makes sense. The owner Andy Bica-Popi hails from Transylvania (yes, the logo does … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Peren Nera Rogue is a future-proof take on a mythical 60s diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Being Jun 25, 2021

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT

Being best known for its aviation-instrument watches, it is logical that Bell & Ross also does well with watches that keep track of a second, and now a third, time zone. The brand’s catalogue includes a variety of travel watches, with the latest being the BR 03-93 GMT. It’s an improved version of the brand’s longstanding dual time zone in a square case, now enhanced with a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel in “Coke” colours that allow it to display the time in up to three places. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross (B&R;) launched the original BR 03-93 GMT in 2016, which was the brand’s first wristwatch to combine the signature square case with a second time zone. The first-generation model has a fixed bezel, limiting its functionality to just two time zones. Subsequently, B&R; introduced a model with a rotating, 24-hour bezel – allowing it to track a third time zone – but in a more conventional round case. The BR V2-93 GMT, the first B&R; watch to feature a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel. Photo – B&R; While the square BR 03 case and rotating second time zone bezel might seem like an obvious combination, it has never existed, until now. The new BR 03-93 GMT is the first to install a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel on the brand’s best-known case design. Given B&R;’s roots in “tool” watches for pilots and other professionals, I’m surprised that it took as long as it did for B&R; to combine the two. The 24-hour bezel is executed in the familiar halves of black and...

Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids. Time+Tide
Casio GMWB5000RD-4 While supposedly red Jun 24, 2021

Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids.

Feel free to judge me. After reading my story on wanting a demure 36mm Carrera reissue in 18K gold on a leather strap, you might think I’m losing my marbles buying this dazzling all-metal purple G-Shock, the CasioGMWB5000RD-4. While supposedly red, close-up it’s a vibrant flash of mad purple-ish burgundy. And boy does it it … ContinuedThe post Am I too old for a purple G-Shock? Don’t ask my kids. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Unveils the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze SJX Watches
Tudor Unveils Jun 23, 2021

Tudor Unveils the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Tudor debuted a teaser about its upcoming launch last week – showing the forging of a case component –  and now it has taken the covers off its very first boutique-only model, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. The new boutique edition combines the compact size of the Fifty-Eight with the alloy found on its prior bronze dive watches. The new model sports a bronze “rivet” bracelet, which is a first for Tudor. And unlike earlier Black Bay Fifty-Eight models, the new version sports an all-new, micro-extension clasp known as T-Fit that brings the wearability of the Fifty–Eight to another level. The new Fifty-Eight is delivered on a bronze bracelet along with an additional fabric strap Initial thoughts Despite boasting several “firsts” for Tudor  – as well as being a good-looking watch – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze sticks to a familiar formula. It has a brown bezel and dial found on the first-generation Black Bay Bronze, as well as Arabic numerals at the quarters that are a hallmark of the Tudor’s bronze watches. But the minor change in case size is significant, a result of the gulf in perception between the 39 mm and 41 mm Black Bay cases. The two millimetres that separate the two sizes are markedly obvious in the metal. The compact format of the new Black Bay in bronze means it’ll wear better, much like the standard Fifty-Eight. And it’ll also have a more retro feel since its case size is close to that of vintage dive watches, which will complem...

Up Close: Ophion OPH 786 Vélos SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Jun 21, 2021

Up Close: Ophion OPH 786 Vélos

A Spanish brand that got its start in 2016, Ophion has refined its offerings substantially since then. Two years ago Ophion debuted its third and most accomplished model, the OPH 786 Vélos. Though based on the original OPH 786 that has a hand-wind movement with a five-day power reserve, the Vélos does everything better. While the design relies on familiar elements like Breguet numerals and teardrop lugs, the Vélos boasts notably fine details. The Breguet numerals, for instance, are applied and elegantly formed, while the guilloche is tidily engraved. But the Vélos gets there almost entirely by machine, mostly CNC milling, which means it is more affordable than it looks, with the guilloche version priced at about US$3,700. Initial thoughts The Vélos is a good looking watch. Admittedly, the look is fairly generic in its classical design, but it has charm, especially considering the quality of execution relative to the price. A strong value proposition is the best way to describe the Vélos. Even though it is made entirely by machine, the dial is the best feature of the watch. It boasts a strongly three-dimensional appearance, thanks to the substantially-sized appliqués. And because the dial parts are made by machine, they are precisely shaped, which gives it an expensive look. The movement is also a key factor behind the value proposition. It’s a solid calibre with useful features, including a five-day power reserve. And it has been extensively customised for ...

EDITOR’S PICK: Cooking with Chin Chin and Hublot, with Head Chef Ben Cooper Time+Tide
Hublot Jun 18, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Cooking with Chin Chin and Hublot, with Head Chef Ben Cooper

Editor’s note: Melbourne is known for a few things. It’s been voted the Most Livable City in the World, it does a lot of great cultural events, but it’s also a serious foodie destination. One of the most popular restaurants is Chin Chin, a city joint that offers an Aussie take on bold Asian flavours. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Cooking with Chin Chin and Hublot, with Head Chef Ben Cooper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Tank Talk With George Cramer And Martin Green: Behind The Scenes (Video) Quill & Pad
Cartier Tank Talk Jun 14, 2021

Cartier Tank Talk With George Cramer And Martin Green: Behind The Scenes (Video)

Martin Green had the pleasure of participating in the Cartier #TankTalk with George Cramer, which saw Cartier's Amsterdam boutique staff sharing experiences selling these watches on a daily basis and George and Martin sharing how they perceive the different models. This gave everyone more in-depth insights, strengthened by the presence of historic Tank models as well as the entire new Must collection.

Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Jun 14, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique

Announced last year and finally complete, Vacheron Constantin’s flagship boutique in the United States just opened today in Manhattan on 57th Street, just as New York City is coming back to life post-pandemic with summer around the corner. Replacing its former location uptown at the corner of East 64th Street and Madison Avenue – which was the brand’s first boutique in the country – the new store is quite literally bigger and better. The brand’s former space was a one-story location in a quieter neighbourhood, but now its home is a two-storey building with an interior spanning 4,500 square feet, and neighbours that include several notable watchmakers and retailers, including Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet. The new boutique is also the opening act for Alexander Schmiedt, who was recently tapped to lead Vacheron Constantin in the Americas. A watch-industry lifer whose family has roots in the business, Mr Schmiedt was formerly head of Vacheron Constantin in the Middle East, and prior to that the chief of Montblanc’s watch division. Open plan and welcoming The relocated store is kitted out with a new-look interior that slightly more contemporary than the outgoing decor that was heavy on dark wood. Characterised by golden hues and geometric shapes, the store has airy, floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal the rich colours inside, along with a selection of watches that are dangerously inviting. In a nod to the brand’s long presence in the United States, the bouti...

Corum Marks 10 Years of the Golden Bridge Automatic SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux  – Jun 13, 2021

Corum Marks 10 Years of the Golden Bridge Automatic

While known for unorthodox designs such as the Coin, Bubble and Admiral’s Cup, Corum’s piece de resistance is the Golden Bridge. Devised by independent watchmaker and ACHI co-founder Vincent Calabrese in 1980, the delicate, elongated movement remains a watchmaking feat. In 2011, Corum debuted the automatic Golden Bridge movement that was wound by an innovative weight that slid on rails. To celebrate the decade since that milestone, Corum has created the 10th Anniversary Golden Bridge Automatic, which puts the movement within a larger case with a wraparound sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts I’m not the biggest fan of Corum’s better known designs, which are often oversized and ostentatious. The exception is the Golden Bridge, which is to Corum what the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is to Girard-Perregaux – a movement defined by its construction and aesthetics. I’ve always liked the Golden Bridge – the baguette shape is not only unique, but also a mechanical marvel. The automatic Golden Bridge further stands out for its vertical winding mass, instead of a traditional rotor. My pick of the collection Starting at about US$35,000 in titanium, the 10th Anniversary Golden Bridge Automatic is actually rather well-priced, considering the movement. In fact, the new anniversary models are priced lower than their 2011 counterparts. The watch is available in either titanium or titanium and rose gold, along with diamond-set variants Smoked Sapphire Like the original...

Breguet Introduces New Looks for the Marine in Titanium or Gold SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces New Looks Jun 13, 2021

Breguet Introduces New Looks for the Marine in Titanium or Gold

Perhaps the epitome of formal, classical style, Breguet took a more modern direction when it revamped the Marine in 2018, giving its line of sports watches a sportier and cleaner aesthetic. The overhauled Marine was launched in three models: the entry-level Marine 5517 (which we did a hands-on review of), the Marine Chronographe 5527, and the top-of-the-line Marine Alarme Musicale 5547. Three years on, Breguet is gently facelifting the Marine Collection with new variants in titanium or rose gold – blue dials for the titanium models and slate-grey for rose gold. Initial thoughts Although not the most novel – these are just new case and dial combinations – the facelifted Marine watches are nevertheless noteworthy simply because they look substantially better. For one, the blue dials on the titanium models are eminently more striking than the mid-grey of the 2018 models, which gave them a more industrial feel. At the same time, the sunburst finishing is more obvious in blue. And pairing of blue and titanium is also unusual, as Breguet usually reserves blue dials for its white gold watches. The Marine in titanium and blue Similarly, the new slate-grey dials for the rose gold models give them more character than the original versions in silver that lacked contrast. The juxtaposition between the warm case metal and the cool dial is intriguing and eye-catching. And the colour and brings out the wave guilloché better. Starting at US$17,300 for the ref. 5517 in titaniu...

New Corum Golden Bridge Automatic For 2021: Linear Winding Never Looked So Good Quill & Pad
Corum Golden Bridge Automatic Jun 12, 2021

New Corum Golden Bridge Automatic For 2021: Linear Winding Never Looked So Good

Of all the watches extoling the virtues of the mechanical movement, no other piece does it as simply, cleanly, or in as straightforward a manner as the Corum Golden Bridge. The 10-year-anniversary version of the Golden Bridge Automatic sees some aesthetic changes made to its avant-garde case, and in particular the iconic sapphire crystal.

#Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko but Jun 12, 2021

#Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs

Seiko diving watches are invariably fantastic. But we all eagerly anticipate the deep blue hues and structured dials of the Save The Ocean releases which, for me, are yearly high points within the Prospex range for dial art, coming close to the brilliance of big brother Grand Seiko, but at great prices. Here, we’re pairing … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready For The European Championships With The Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020 Quill & Pad
Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready Jun 11, 2021

6 Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready For The European Championships With The Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020

In the spirit of enjoying soccer again at the highest level, Elizabeth Doerr highlights six Hublot ambassadors and friends of the brand associated with Euro 2020. They'll be wearing the limited edition Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020 smartwatch, which features an app dedicated to soccer enabling users to follow the competition in real time.

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection Jun 10, 2021

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true

The last release of the Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection provoked extreme jealousy all around the world. The reason for this is that it was only available in the USA, which seemed dreadfully unfair for the rest of us. Thankfully, the collection is now back and this time it’s available for all. Despite the prodigious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster It was only Jun 10, 2021

Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster

It was only a couple of weeks ago that we spotted a rare Rolex Submariner on Antiques Roadshow, the valuation of which left its owner with tears in his eyes. The team at Antiques Roadshow have now served up another horological treat, with a gentleman bringing in his Omega Speedmaster for the experts to study … ContinuedThe post Antiques Roadshow crowd shocked by valuation of Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jun 9, 2021

Svend Andersen Marks 40 Years with the Jumping Hours Platinum

Andersen Genève turned 40 in 2020 – making the brand one of the longest-established independent watchmakers in Switzerland. The brand is, in fact, a pioneer in the field. Founder Svend Andersen, an octogenarian who was born in Denmark but moved to Switzerland in 1963, set up the AHCI in 1985 alongside Vincent Calabrese. Andersen Genève is best known for inventive and novel complications, often built as a module to be added onto a base movement, such as the secular perpetual calendar that needs no adjustment even after centuries – but on an ETA base calibre. Many of the brand’s creations are hand-made, bespoke timepieces built to the client’s specifications. The brand commemorated its 40th anniversary with four models that encapsulate its historical specialties, a diamond-set, Louis Cattier-style world time, a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin that combines the Russian watchmaker’s Joker display with an automaton on the back, and a jumping hours. The final watch in the anniversary quartet is the first in platinum, the Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary with a 21k-gold dial engine turned by hand. Initial thoughts The Jumping Hours is charming in both design and construction, but for the fact that it is the brainchild of a pioneer independent watchmaker. Save for the case material, the new Jumping Hours is identical to its rose gold predecessor, so it’s not particularly novel. But the guilloche blue dial works exceptionally well with the white-metal case, mak...

Joe Rogan talks aliens with Neil deGrasse Tyson, but what’s on his guest’s wrist? Time+Tide
Jun 8, 2021

Joe Rogan talks aliens with Neil deGrasse Tyson, but what’s on his guest’s wrist?

Joe Rogan, the man behind the most successful podcast on the planet, The Joe Rogan Experience, recently interviewed American astrophysicist and scientist Neil deGrasse Tyson on the show. Naturally, because Joe Rogan likes to delve into conspiracy theories whenever the chance arises, the conversation inevitably turned to UFOs. What does Neil deGrasse Tyson think about … ContinuedThe post Joe Rogan talks aliens with Neil deGrasse Tyson, but what’s on his guest’s wrist? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Jun 5, 2021

History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari

In this non-chronological multipart series called “History of Ferrari Watches,” Elizabeth Doerr takes us through a comprehensive look into the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari collaboration, which took place between 1993 and 2004 and culminated in the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Tribute to Enzo Ferrari Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges perpetual calendar chronograph.

Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again) SJX Watches
Seiko Reinterprets May 27, 2021

Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again)

Twenty-twenty marked 55 years since Seiko’s first foray into dive watches, which was the ref. 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Naturally, it introduced myriad vintage remakes to mark the occasion – not only of the “62MAS” but also other dive watches of the era like the ref. 6105 “Turtle”. A year on, Seiko continues with a pair of remakes: the 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS” (ref. SPB239) and the 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation “Turtle” (ref. SPB237), both powered by the mid-range 6R35 movement, making them affordable. The “6105” remake with a textured grey dial Initial thoughts There have been numerous remakes of Seiko dive watches, including several limited editions – but all are practical, affordable watches, so more isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The result is a variety of iterated case and dial combinations with something for almost everyone. The new models are as good looking as their immediate predecessors, since they are essentially alike save for minor tweaks, namely the woven-fabric strap and dial colour. The “62MAS” remake with a brown “sunburst” dial Each model is delivered with a pair of NATO-style fabric straps that add a bit of vintage charm to the look, especially compared to the rubber straps usually found on dive watches. Although the fabric straps are merely, well, fabric straps, they are special. The straps are braided with the technique known as seichu, traditionally used to weave obijime, the co...

Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline SJX Watches
Cartier May 22, 2021

Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline

After a weak first half, Richemont’s business started its turnaround in the second half of the financial year, which ended in March 2021. From a 25% year-on-year revenue decline in the first half at constant exchange rates, the Swiss luxury group enjoyed a 36% rise in sales in the last quarter. As a result, revenue for the full year was down just 5% compared to the year before, to slightly over €13 billion. The healthy numbers and positive outlook helped send Richemont shares past 100 Swiss francs during trading, a five-year high. Divergent fates Beneath the strong recovery in the group’s numbers lay a recurring theme: a disparity in performance between regions, channels, and divisions. This echoes that of its rivals and the broader luxury-good industry – characterised by a strong recovery in Asia, moderate recovery in the United States, and continued weakness in Europe. And within the group, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are powering ahead, leaving most of its watchmakers lagging. Continuing a trend that began in the third quarter, sales in Asia Pacific – all Asian countries except Japan – rose by a staggering 106% in the final quarter, boosting revenue in the region by 22% for the year. Asia Pacific sales are now the largest proportion of Richemont’s revenue at 45% of the total, compared to the historical one-third share. The performance was driven by strong sales in China, both in Richemont’s physical stores and its online mall on Alibaba’s Tmall Lu...

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium Launched May 19, 2021

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium

Launched just earlier in the year, the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium is a follow up to the original, which was historically faithful in terms of the design. The new titanium version, however, is more compelling. The titanium BigEye retains the same design, but gets a new look with the blue dial and titanium case. Both substantially change its look and feel for the better, while retaining the usual affordability of Longines’ many remakes. Initial thoughts The new Avigation BigEye departs from the typical Longines formula for remakes, which to faithfully reproduce as far as possible, right down to the spotting on old dials. In contrast, the Avigation BigEye in titanium preserves the design of the remake, but renders the dial in a clearly modern texture and colour. And of course the case is titanium. Notably, the new Avigation BigEye, along with other recent remakes like the Legend Diver in bronze, appear to mark a shift in Longines’ strategy for its historically-inspired watches. Instead of concentrating merely on one-for-one replicas, Longines is making them more interesting with modern colours and materials. That’s a good thing, especially given the obvious fact that Longines’ designers have shown themselves to possess a good eye. They manage to tweak existing designs while preserving the spirit of the original, as demonstrated by the BigEye in titanium. The result is a lightweight, and good looking watch. It does have the shortcomings of the steel versio...