Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

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SJX Watches

Louis Erard Debuts Aug 25, 2023

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration

Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style.  The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...

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Worn & Wound

Timex Pushes Boundaries Aug 24, 2023

Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2

Timex takes their relationship with Giorgio Galli a step further with a new iteration of the series called, naturally, the GGS2. The new watch retains much of the drama of the S1 (which our Ed Jelley reviewed here), but ramps up the minimal nature of the design language with a near sterile black dial set within one of the most unique cases you’re likely to find under $1,000. As with all of the Timex Giorgio Galli watches, there’s plenty to appreciate in the small details, and with even fewer components brought to the table here, those details matter all the more. The S2 is chic on the exterior, and this time, gains a bit of Swiss cache on the inside.  The S2 sets the stage for a new generation of Giorgio Galli watches from Timex, revealed in its most elemental form here that is easy to imagine spawning additional variations. The all black dial set under a sapphire crystal is framed by a single applied ring that hosts a notch for each hour of the day. It’s a stark scene but everything that’s there makes a big impact. The structure of that ring is subtle, but it’s mirrored in the hand-set in both design and tone. Only the word Timex appears at the top of the dial, while the Giorgio Galli and S2 Automatic labels are relegated to the bottom of that ring ring structure. While the dial has certainly evolved, the case retains its signature injection-molded skeleton execution with titanium inserts for the movement and caseback. It’s a bit exotic feeling and sets this ...

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Worn & Wound

Farer Launches Aug 24, 2023

Farer Launches the New Tonneau Collection, with Colors Inspired by European Cities

British brand Farer’s latest collection is an ode to form and aesthetics. Called the Tonneau Collection, the three watches each show that style doesn’t have to lack substance; but can, in fact, be a jumping-off point for great design and a reliable watch. As the name denotes, each watch within this collection has a barrel-shaped, rounded rectangle case, mixing clean lines and smooth curves all in one. At just 35mm, it’s a watch that balances comfort on the wrist while still having a covetable presence when worn, and this is due in part to the particular color combinations that Farer used for the collection. Each of the three color options embody the spirit and energy of a particular city: Milan, London, and Paris. Milan’s vibrant emerald fumé dial is a callback to green-glazed ceramics that traversed the ancient world and still has a timeless sophistication – just like Milan. The emerald green is paired with polished silver batons, a stainless steel case, and a rich brown St Venere leather strap to balance the urbanity of the Northern Italian city. London is a nod to the Mod era of the 1970’s, with Farer being inspired by two-handed watches of this time period. With clean lines and a ridged pattern around the face, one can appreciate the geometry that goes into a well-designed timepiece. The dominant colors (or should I say colours) of this watch are blue, white, and red, each perfectly in balance to not compete but complement one another. The London model is ...

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Seiko Land Tortoise Tool watches Aug 22, 2023

Out of Office: The Wandering Bezel of the Seiko Land Tortoise

Tool watches are, as the name suggests, utilitarian by design. When I bought an SRPG13, the green Seiko Land Tortoise with a compass bezel, I thought I was purchasing yet another tool watch with practical non-timekeeping functionality. After an overnight family backpacking trip, I’m not convinced my field watch is the useful tool I tried to force it to be. The Land Tortoise is a tool watch- in the sense that it’s technically capable of tasks beyond displaying the time. True North can be found with any analog watch by pointing the hour hand at the sun, bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the sun to find South, and then locating the opposite point to identify North. A compass bezel is an enhancement that allows the wearer to mark North after finding it. This summer our family of four is section hiking the entire Monadnock-Sunapee Greenway Trail; A 50 mile peak to peak path through New Hampshire’s backcountry. What better place to put this tool to the test than on the first section of the trip? The day before our first overnight section, as I organized gear, sprawling out sleeping pads, a tent, trekking poles and various knick-knacks across our living room floor, I made sure to put on the SRPG13. I pictured standing on a mountain top, getting the kids set up with a celebratory lunch, lining up the hour hand, and then bisecting with ease. With a real compass in my pack, I was excited to check my accuracy.  Two miles away and 2000 feet above the parking lot whe...

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Worn & Wound

Aug 22, 2023

Back To School With The Windup Watch Shop

Yes, it’s that time again. When the summer slowly fades into fall and you’re desperately trying to regulate your sleep into somewhat of a “normal” schedule. “Back to School” is not all bad though. It’s an excellent opportunity to experience independence, learn a little something, and further yourself or your children as individuals. We wouldn’t be here talking about it if we didn’t think it was also an excellent opportunity to gear up with some new clocks, watches, and EDC accessories that’ll make your transition back to school a bit easier (and more fun) for you and your family. Let’s check our some of our favorite pieces of kit for getting back to school. Yes, it’s that time again. When the summer slowly fades into fall and you’re desperately trying to regulate your sleep into somewhat of a “normal” schedule. “Back to School” is not all bad though. It’s an excellent opportunity to experience independence, learn a little something, and further yourself or your children as individuals. We wouldn’t be here talking about it if we didn’t think it was also an excellent opportunity to gear up with some new clocks, watches, and EDC accessories that’ll make your transition back to school a bit easier (and more fun) for you and your family. Let’s check our some of our favorite pieces of kit for getting back to school. The post Back To School With The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Refs Aug 22, 2023

In Depth: Inside the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Refs. 5002 and 6002

Long the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch until it was superseded by the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 (and ref. 6175), the Sky Moon Tourbillon was arguably the brand’s first uber-complication. It was certainly the brand’s first double-faced wristwatch, continuing a lineage of two-sided grand complications that included the famous watches made for Henry Graves Jr. and James Ward Packard and the more recent Calibre 89. Boasting 12 complications, it debuted as the ref. 5002 in 2001 and then evolved into the ref. 6002 in 2014. The ref. 6002 has a more elaborately decorated 44 mm case, along with a revamped calendar display, but is otherwise unchanged in functional and mechanical terms from its predecessor, the ref. 5002 that was slightly smaller at 42.8 mm. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002P, the very first variant of the model The ref. 5002 featured a relief decoration on the case band done by machine Despite their comparable sizes, the ref. 6002 is far and away the more striking watch because the fully engraved case and enamelled dial. In fact, the ref. 6002 is probably as over the top as a classically-inclined grand complication can get. Both references are powered by the R TO 27 QR SID LU CL, a multi-layered movement made up of 705 parts. In a world first, we’ll take you inside the movement and show you each of the layers. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R that remains in the current catalogue The ref. 6002 is engraved on almost every surface, even the minu...

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Worn & Wound

Aug 21, 2023

Hanhart’s Elegant Pioneer Silva is an Exercise in Refined Simplicity

Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt.  To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models.  The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...

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Time+Tide

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort Aug 21, 2023

The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription

This marks the third montre de souscription from Monochrome Monochrome aimed to design a “warm, discreet, and traditional” take on the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force This edition stands out with its usage of maillechort, or German silver, for the movement These days, whether standard models or limited editions, many try to leverage bold colours … ContinuedThe post The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Aug 19, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Retro Goodness Abound at Monterey Car Week, a Comprehensive Guide for Vintage Military Watches, the New GiantMouse Iona V2, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Presented by Artem Straps This week’s Watches Stories & Gear is brought to you by Artem Straps. Artem is a modern watch strap maker out of Australia creating high quality sailcloth-style watch straps. With a philosophy built on artisnal craftsmanship and fine engineering, the Artem sailcloth-style watch strap is designed to ensure the highest level of comfort and functionality, without compromise. After much testing and iteration, Artem developed a meticulous material selection process which landed on a unique blend of materials that offered just the right finish, flexibility, and water resistance. The upper side of their straps are an embossed synthetic, while the underside is a combo of coated leather and natural rubber. The results are impeccable, made with a quality usually only found in very high-end OEM straps. Visit artemstraps.com to learn more about the brand and its array of products. The Sailcloth Watch Strap collection is currently available by Artem Straps Monterey Car Week In Full Effect 1969 Lamborghini Islero S Via RM Sotheby’s If you haven’t heard by now, Mon...

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Worn & Wound

Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 Aug 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Inside the Collection: Divers That Break From Convention

The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules.  In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 18, 2023

20 Affordable GMT Watches for Budget-Conscious Travelers

Of all the different types of complicated timepieces, watches with a GMT or second-time-zone function are among the most useful in everyday life, especially for those of us who travel frequently, do long-distance business in other parts of the world, or some combination of both. Until relatively recently, if you wanted such a watch with a traditional mechanical movement (as opposed to a digital or quartz option), you could expect to pay a fairly hefty price for it. Fortunately, a growing number of watch brands - large and small, well-established as well as plucky newcomers - have started to make GMT watches that are attainable for newer, less affluent aficionados while also being robustly built and thoughtfully designed. In this article, we spotlight 20 of these affordable GMT watches, in ascending order of MSRP, all of which fall under the $2,000 threshold. (If you’re interested in a broader look at the GMT watch category, and might be convinced to spend a bit, or a lot, more, check out our original list of the best GMT watches.) Under $1,000: Timex Q Timex GMT Price: $229, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Always known for its value proposition, mass-market Timex has also gotten onto the radar of vintage-watch fans in recent years by reproducing some of its cult-favorite historical models, seeking out the sweet spot between historical flair, modest dimensions, and great pricin...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Dome Clocks Aug 17, 2023

Allure and Architecture – Patek Philippe Dome Clocks

A fixture in the Patek Philippe catalogue in the second half of the 20th century, the Dome Clock can nonetheless be considered a rather odd creation when juxtaposed against the main product lineup. Still today, the company seems rather keen on prolonging and even strengthening a product range that, otherwise, should have gone extinct decades ago. A few years after being introduced, Dome Clocks – formally known as Pendulette Dôme – began to appear as unique pieces with an unreasonable amount of exceptional artistic handwork mainly based on cloisonné enamel. And even though the timekeeping mechanism housed inside evolved over the years, it also became secondary, while its unusual and particular shape remained a unique artistic canvas becoming inextricably intertwined with Patek Philippe itself. The influence of accuracy, precision and Observatory Competitions Following the period where prestige was measured by the number of medals and prizes handed out during the historic World Fairs of London, Paris or New York, the growing accuracy and precision of timekeepers required different metrics. One that could only be conceded by Astronomic Observatories during demanding chronometric competitions. The prominent dome at the United States National Observatory in Washington D.C. Image –Wikimedia Commons From 1879 onwards, chronometric contests at the Astronomical Observatory of Geneva became an institution in how watchmakers promoted the overall quality of the watches they ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Aug 17, 2023

Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide

A watch complication, by definition, is any function offered by a timepiece that is in addition to its primary function of keeping the time. Despite the name, watch complications don't really have to be, well, all that complicated: that date display you glance at before signing a check qualifies as a complication even though it's not nearly as complex and dynamic as, say, the split-seconds chronograph you use to time racing laps or the world-time function you consult before making a call home on an international business trip. Here we run down the major watch complications from the simplest to the most mechanically sophisticated, and provide an example of each. Date Complications: Date Window Probably the most common of “small complications,” this is simply a display of the date via a numbered disk that passes under an aperture in the dial, usually positioned at 3 o’clock, 4:30, or 6 o’clock. Unless the watch is an annual or perpetual calendar, this date will need to be manually adjusted forward at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. Some watches, like the Rolex Submariner, enlarge this display by placing a magnifying lens over the window. Large Date This one also goes by “big date” “grande date,” or “panorama date,’ and is essentially just a larger version of the standard date display, though it usually uses two date disks (one for the tens numeral and the other for the ones) rather than one, and a double window, with each numeral appearing in...

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Seiko Aug 16, 2023

Brew Introduces the first Mechanical Metric, a Limited Edition of 500 Pieces

Brew has been on a hot streak with their Metric ever since the first examples were shown back in the summer of 2021. In the time since, brand owner and designer Jonathan Ferrer has iterated on the basic Metric principles to great effect, adding new dial colors as well as gold and black PVD coated cases that transform the 1970s sport watch in terms of its character and overall presentation. But until now, the Metric had always been built on the same Meca-quartz platform, with a VK68 hybrid movement built by Seiko that allows for quartz timekeeping and a mechanical chronograph operation. Today, Brew unveils the Metric Automatic, the first Metric powered by a mechanical movement, and the first non-chronograph in the line.  A lot of the design cues here will feel very familiar to Metric owners and longtime Brew fans. The 1970s vibes of the original Metric (as well as watches like the Retrograph and Retromatic) really come primarily from the case, which in the case of the Metric resembles a rounded square, with a bracelet that appears to be integrated to the case. The size is also key – the Metric Automatic comes in at the same svelte dimensions as its Meca-quartz counterpart, with a diameter of 36mm, a lug to lug span of 41.5mm, and a case height of just 10.75mm. It’s a refreshingly compact design, and really does feel like a vintage watch on the wrist.  For this first mechanical Metric, we get a simple black dial with chunky hour markers and Arabic numerals counting off...

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Grand Seiko challenged one another while Aug 16, 2023

The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration

Some things are as sure as the rising sun, and in the Land of the Rising Sun, that means nature-inspired dials from Seiko…King Seiko, to be exact. As friendly divisional rivals in the 60s and early 70s, the workshops of King Seiko and Grand Seiko challenged one another while pushing the technical and aesthetic envelope of Japanese watchmaking. While some consider GS victorious as the KS name was sunsetted in 1975, the reality is that both were instrumental in establishing Seiko’s mid-century identity. More recently, Grand Seiko has spun off as a high-end, independent brand, and the King Seiko nameplate was rebooted in February of last year as a more premium offering within Seiko. Today, we take a look at a watch that isn’t entirely new yet brings an interesting flourish to the recently resurrected collection. The SJE095’s specifications are reasonable for the average wrist: 38.6mm x 45.8mm x 10.7mm, 5 bar water resistance, and powered by in-house caliber 6L35 (28,800 vph, 45 hour power reserve, +15/-10s a day) with a date complication and boxed sapphire crystal. Like the other SJE and SPB-reference King Seikos, it features a striking stainless steel case, sharp angles, and expansive flat surfaces, attributes of the original 1965 KSK on which the entire modern KS line is based. This new dial features a self-repeating pattern of circles and fine lines known as kiku tsunagi-mon. This particular design holds special significance in Japanese culture for several reasons....

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Aug 16, 2023

Marchesi di Grésy Italian wines: Rates among Barbaresco’s Greatest Grand Crus

The Marchesi di Grésy estate is now one of Barbaresco's most highly regarded, if not the region's greatest - for many, Barbaresco's first - Grand Cru, even if not officially designated as such.

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Worn & Wound

Aug 15, 2023

Ollech & Wajs Issues the OW 56 M, a Limited Edition Made from Mostly New Old Stock and Up-Cycled Components

We’ve seen a number of compelling releases from Ollech & Wajs in the years since the brand was relaunched, but the new OW 56 M is something genuinely different, and not simply another plumbing of the back catalog. At a glance, the OW 56 M resembles any number of other Ollech & Wajs releases. It has a brutish charm about, presents as a true tool, and is without any unnecessary adornment. But this watch sets itself apart with the literal components it’s made from, with a number of the watch’s parts being new old stock or refurbished from an earlier Ollech & Wajs era.  The 38mm case used for the OW 56 M has been upcycled from stock originally acquired by Ollech & Wajs in the 1990s. While the brand doesn’t provide exact manufacture dates for the cases, they say they were acquired in the late 90s, but made “several years earlier.” If that puts the manufacturing period at sometime in the late 80s or early 90s, we’re looking at cases that are right on the edge of vintage. The design of the case itself is straightforward, and right in line with the brand’s pilot watches that date back to their inception in 1956.  The movements are ETA 2824, and are taken from OW’s unused stock. All movements used for the 56 M have been serviced and reconditioned after a prolonged period of sitting on the proverbial shelf. Of course, the ETA 2824 is one of the most reliable workhorse movements, with untold thousands in working without incident over many decades, so it’s quite ...

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Worn & Wound

Hublot s Lightens Up Aug 15, 2023

Hublot’s Lightens Up with the Big Bang Unico Sky Blue

More and more, the luxury industry is looking to redefine what it means to be a “neutral” color. Instead of black, why not try a dark red? Instead of tan, a hunter green may do the trick. And if navy is a bit passe, then perhaps a lighter blue has just as much sophistication, but with a bit more impact on the wrist. Or, at least that’s the case with Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Sky Blue. Inspired by summer sunshine and the cloudless skies that accompany it, Hublot’s latest watch is vibrant while remaining refined. To accomplish this balance, Hublot has leaned into their brand identity as a watchmaker that marries technical precision with a robust design language. The watch has a strong presence on the wrist at 42mm, which is enhanced by the added details, such as the metal rivets, crown, and complementary colored strap. The case of the watch itself is made of high-tech, ultra-tough ceramic, something the Swiss brand has become known for in the industry, that gives Hublot a lot of control over the color of their end product.  The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is powered by an in-house automatic movement called the Unico. Composed of 354 pieces and providing over 72-hours of power reserve, the Unico HUB1280 movement is a celebration of the Swiss watchmaking tradition. Like many watches in Hublot’s various collections, the Sky Blue has a skeletonized dial, allowing the wearer to witness the internal workings of this watch throughout the day. The Big Bang Unico Sky Blue is l...

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SJX Watches

Tudor Pelagos FXD & Pelagos Aug 15, 2023

Review: Tudor Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”

Having signed on as the sponsor for the Swiss syndicate competing in the 2024 America’s Cup, Tudor recently unveiled the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”. Both watches have carbon composite cases – a first for Tudor – while the FXD Chrono is an entirely new model. The two timepieces mark Tudor’s partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but are also official-issue watches for the team, so the crew of Alinghi are wearing either one of the two, both during training and as they challenge for the 37th America’s Cup taking place next year. Key takeaways Both feel more solid than expected for carbon-composite cases, which is reassuring. The carbon composite cases have the same design and detail as their equivalent metal counterparts. The blue and black colour combination is unusual and takes some getting used to, while the branding on the flange is not apparent on the wrist. The value proposition is outstanding as expected for Tudor. The chronograph has an edge in terms of appeal due to its slightly better value proposition as well as the visual appeal of the complication matched with the Pelagos design. Pelagos FXD Chrono (left), and Pelagos FXD Initial thoughts Tudor watches usually look much as they do in photos, but the two Alinghi watches look quite different, and much better, in real life, particular in terms of dial colour. The dial colour appears purplish in the stock images, but it’s a dark blue ...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Cartier Aug 14, 2023

Cartier Watches for Men Buyer's Guide

Once dubbed “The King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings” by no less a personage than King Edward VII of England, Cartier is regarded by many watch aficionados as a jewelry house first and a watchmaker second - and a watchmaker prone to feminine, jewel-bedecked watches at that. Historically, however, nothing could be further from the truth. Cartier’s horological roots run even deeper than its high-jewelry history, and the French-Swiss luxury powerhouse has contributed some of the most historic and influential watch designs in the world, many of them aimed at men long before their appeal expanded to women.  Family Foundations  Louis-Francois Cartier (above, 1819-1904) apprenticed under master watchmaker Adolphe Piccard before founding his eponymous company, at the age of 28, in Piccard’s Parisian workshop in 1847. As Cartier’s watches and jewelry found widespread success, and an esteemed client list that included royalty like Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon III, the firm moved to more luxurious quarters in the Palais-Royal District and eventually to the current world headquarters at 13 Rue de la Paix. Louis-Francois passed the reins of the growing company to his son Alfred in 1874, and Alfred brought in his sons to succeed him toward the end of the 19th Century. It was this third generation of family ownership, under brothers Pierre, Jacques, and Louis Cartier, that truly catapulted Cartier from the boundaries of France to the world stage. While Jacqu...

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Worn & Wound

Oris Releases Aug 14, 2023

Oris Releases the Dat Watt Limited Edition II, their Second Collaboration with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat

The latest release from Oris, and one that highlights their ongoing Change for the Better initiative, is a sequel of sorts to a watch that became a cult hit when it was released in 2021. The Dat Watt Limited Edition II is very much in the same vein as the original Dat Watt Limited Edition, but with a few twists to make this new LE its own thing. Its release comes alongside an announcement from Oris that they’ve extended their relationship with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) by another two years, the organization that works to protect the Wadden Sea, which provides the inspiration for the new watch.  The Wadden Sea covers 11,500 square kilometers in northern Europe, and includes shoreline in Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. This intertidal zone is a unique geographical space in that it happens to be the world’s largest unbroken tidal flats system, and is in a largely undisturbed state, thanks in part to the efforts of the CWSS. Because of the area’s size and the fact that it has been so well protected, it’s an important area for the study of the 10,000 species that live there. The Wadden Sea has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 2009 based on its importance to global biodiversity.  Like the first Dat Watt Limited Edition, this new release uses the Aquis diver as a platform, here in its 43.5mm footprint. The dial’s green tone is inspired by the waters in the Wadden Sea’s salt marshes, which act as critical natural storage for CO2. Thi...

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Worn & Wound

Ressence Type 8S There Aug 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S

There is a big difference between seeing a watch at a trade show, meetup, or boutique and living with one. In the former experiences, it’s very easy to be immediately taken with something. The energy of the environment, the thrill of trying on watches, perhaps a champagne or two, create a level of excitement that overlays everything you touch and see. As such, the watches we get to experience in these shows need to be taken out into the less flattering light of the real world to truly know if that excitement was genuine, or just a by-product of the situation in which they were introduced. One brand I’ve always been very taken with, especially when I’ve gotten to handle their wares at Watches and Wonders, is Ressence. For those unfamiliar with the Haute-independent brand, it was founded by Benoît Mintiens in 2010 with the goal of rethinking how a watch displays time. The solution found didn’t recreate the wheel, though it did heavily modify it. Utilizing a patented module design called the Ressence Orbital Convex System or ROCS, Mintiens, an industrial designer by trade, eliminated the use of classic hands. Instead, the whole dial becomes an active surface for telling the time with satellite sub-registers floating within a larger, always-in-motion, display. In 2022 they unveiled the Type 8, their simplest and lowest-priced model. The following year, they introduced it in a lovely, pale green and called it the Type 8S, for sage. Both years I left their booth a bit g...

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Worn & Wound

Zodiac Aug 12, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Rowing Blazers Slated to Hit Target Retail Stores with Latest Collaboration, Creative Director Turned Watchmaker, & Marking a Momentous Occasion with the CW&T; Time Since Launch Capsule

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Rowing Blazers x Target Rowing Blazers x Target Debut Expansive (and Affordable) Collection Via Rowing Blazers x Target Rowing Blazers has been a common sight here on Worn & Wound for their uber-cool collaborations with watch brands such as Seiko, Zodiac and Tudor. It has been a way for Jack Carlson and company to incorporate the brand’s distinct style that blends the use of bold colors and patterns with design cues drawn from a wide spectrum of inspiration spanning between oxbridge-aesthetic and sportswear. The New York based brand and design studio has now turned their sights to Target as their next collaborative dance partner, offering up their largest collection yet at the wallet-friendly prices you’d find at the one-stop-shop big-box retailer. Via Rowing Blazers x Target The Rowing Blazers x Target collection spans over 100 pieces that includes apparel for adults, kids and even your four-legged family members, countless accessories, home decor and for outdoor play. Like any collaboration Rowing Blazers finds themselves involved with, the products come wit...

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D Deployant

Deployant

Aug 11, 2023

New: Hanhart Pioneer Silva

Hanhart releases a new model to join their Pioneer collection – the Silva. As usual for Hanhart, the novelty is pitched at the modestly priced segment. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New: Hanhart Pioneer Silva The Hanhart Pioneer Silva will be available on www.hanhart.com for EUR 890, inclusive of EUR 19% VAT. CommentaryRead More

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Aug 11, 2023

In Depth: Marco Lang Zweigesicht-1

Marco Lang made a comeback in 2020 with his eponymous brand and the Zweigesicht-1. The year before the German watchmaker departed his prior brand after disagreements with the investor who was the majority owner, which allowed Mr Lang to revert to being a true independent watchmaker. Despite a relatively conservative face, the Zweigesicht is quirky and original from a technical perspective. Zwei gesicht translates as “double faced”, which describes the watch literally. It has two faces, one on each side of the case, both of which indicate the time. The watch can be worn on either side thanks to lugs that are removable (in an operation that requires delicate manual work). And the movement incorporates a novel, and perhaps unnecessary, shock recorder. Initial thoughts To start with, zwei gesicht is a mouthful for non-German speakers. Perhaps for that reason, fellow German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne opted for made-up words like Zeitwerk and Datograph. But despite the unfamiliar name, the watch is elegant in form, measuring under 10 mm high, and impressive in decoration and construction. The zwei gesicht nature of the watch gives it two distinct appearances, a low-key conventional front and an elaborate, mechanical reverse. Two-faced watches are not new by any means, but Mr Lang’s approach is notable for rely on conventional lugs and by consequence, maintaining a classical appearance. In contrast, most double-faced watches are either rectangular or have unusual lugs. T...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Longines Redesigns HydroConquest Aug 10, 2023

Longines Redesigns HydroConquest With New GMT Collection

Longines’ polarizing dive watch collection, the HydroConquest, has received a major overhaul from the Swatch Group brand, featuring a GMT compilation for the first time since 2007. This is still a true dive capable watch through and through, integrating the GMT component in a more subtle manner than you might imagine. As we’ve come to expect from Longines recently, this new collection is kicking off with a plethora of earth tone color schemes, and multiple strap options. There is some retro-inspiration happening here, but this one doesn’t feel like a throwback. If you weren’t fond of the 5 stars of the dial of the Zulu Time, this might be the one you’ve been waiting for.  The new HydroConquest is built within a steel case that measures 41mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, and places a large rotating bezel assembly front and center. Rather than placing the 24 hour scale on the bezel, they’ve reserved this element for the watch’s diving ambitions, and it is graduated to the minutes as you might expect. The 24 hour scale is moved to the rehaut  at the perimeter of the dial, and is bi-color to separate the halves of the day. It’s a graceful implementation that retains enough functionality to be practical, though perhaps not quite as quick to read at a glance compared to other GMT watches. Moving into the dial things get a bit more interesting still, with some unusual but welcome decisions being made that help this watch stand on its own. First, the dial ...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Grand Seiko pays homage Aug 10, 2023

King Seiko Turns to the Geometry of the Chrysanthemum

Seiko has unveiled a limited-edition iteration of its vintage-inspired timepiece, the King Seiko. The King Seiko SJE095 features a textured dial adorned with a uniquely Japanese motif-a geometric pattern known as kiku tsunagi-mon inspired by the chrysanthemum flower. Save for the patterned dial, the limited edition maintains the compact case profile found in the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 was earlier this year.  Initial thoughts While the latest King Seiko models have a notably streamlined case, the stylistic resemblance to the original from 1965 bordered on being a vintage remake. Fortunately, Seiko has decided to create a standout iteration (albeit a limited edition) that, as is often the case with Seiko and Grand Seiko, pays homage to Japanese culture in the dial decoration. The highlight is the intricate geometric pattern on the dial. Besides evoking traditional Japanese cut-glassware, the engraving possesses a degree of elegance, while upholding a sense of balance in the dial. The balance could have been improved if the date window were absent, allowing the engraving to run uninterrupted across the dial.  This limited edition carries a price of US$3,400, just US$100 more than the standard King Seiko. The small difference makes this a no-brainer over the regular production model, though it can be argued this is somewhat pricey in absolute terms for a mid-range Seiko model. Rooted in tradition This limited edition draws substantial inspiration from the chrysanthe...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Aug 9, 2023

Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation

Here’s a character watch we never saw coming. To celebrate the 79th birthday of Smokey Bear (famous for his “Only you can prevent wildfires” tagline), Vero is releasing a pair of officially licensed Smokey Bear watches. It’s actually a natural partnership for Vero. As a fire prevention mascot, Smokey is well known in the Pacific Northwest, where Vero is based. And Vero’s brand identity very much leans into the culture of love for the outdoors – it’s a huge part of every watch they make, both in terms of the aesthetics (with designs and colors inspired by Vero’s Oregon home) and their robust nature (the Workhorse comes immediately to mind). These new watches have a charm factor that’s just about off the charts if you grew up seeing Smokey on TV warning you about the dangers of forest fires, but they’re also Vero through and through.  First up is the Smokey ‘44 watch, which takes its inspiration from the types of early field style watches that would have been in use the year Smokey made his debut. The dominant feature here is the large cathedral hour hand, paired with Arabic numerals in a distinctive gothic typeface. Vero says this typeface was chosen to match iconic mid century signage found in the US National Parks System. The Smokey ‘44 watch includes the familiar illustration of Smokey (wearing his hat, of course) at the 12:00 position, with “Only You” text right underneath, a reference to his iconic catchphrase.  The Smokey ‘64 is perhaps...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Glashütte Orig... Aug 9, 2023

Summer Shades for the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph

Glashütte Original has released the latest variations of its vintage-style sports chronograph, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. First introduced in 2014, the watch is defined by a squarish case, integrated bracelet, and in-house movement. Now the German watch brand has unveiled a limited edition pair that feature matte, lacquered dials in either ochre or grey-blue. Initial thoughts Given the niche appeal of its obviously-retro case, it is unsurprising that the Seventies Chronograph doesn’t receive as much attention as most sports watches derived from that period. It doesn’t quite have the same look of the most popular watches of the 1970s (think sports watches from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet). That’s something of a shame considering the excellent, integrated chronograph movement inside. Hopefully, the introduction of brighter dial options will boost its appeal. Certainly, the new dial offerings align with the current trend for coloured dials, particular the dial in light blue that’s much like the shade found in the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection. This dial update significantly improves the models in terms of visual appeal as it gives the model a more lively appearance compared to earlier versions that had conventional dark, metallic finish dials. Priced at US$14,100 on a rubber strap and US$15,300 on a matching bracelet, the new models cost slightly more than the standard models. But given these are limited editions in colours will not be seen a...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Aug 8, 2023

Pöhlmann-Bresan Premieres with the Prestige

The Prestige from the newly renamed Pöhlmann-Bresan (the brand started life as Junge Uhrmacher) is one of the latest additions to Saxony’s long and storied history as the epicentre of German watchmaking. Based in Dresden, just a short drive from the nation’s horological heart in Glashütte, the Pöhlmann-Bresan workshop is up and running with all of the traditional hand skills one might expect. Remarkably, this has been achieved just ten years after the founders met each other while working with and learning from Marco Lang while he was still at Lang & Heyne. Initial thoughts The watch in question is the perfect showcase for the artisanal techniques mastered by founders Lukas Pöhlmann and Josef Bresan during their careers thus far. Inside is the Pöhlmann-Bresan JU26-01 that was originally designed by LIP and subsequently produced under licence in the Soviet Union as the Pobeda cal. 2608. Pöhlmann-Bresan found this calibre attractive because of its unusual bridge architecture. The JU26-01 before being mounted in the case, showing the depth that has been achieved. Thanks to the central seconds hand wheel being set directly above the centre wheel of the gear train, the bridges are uncommonly high. This double-layered effect means that incredible visual depth can be achieved if the train bridge is appropriately skeletonised, as Messrs Pöhlmann and Bresan have done here. Additionally, the rapidly-moving central seconds wheel acts as a natural and dynamic focal point, a...

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