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California Dial

Mixed Roman / Arabic numeral dial: Rolex Bubble Back 1934, Panerai Italian Royal Navy 1939, modern Panerai Radiomir.

Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Feb 26, 2026

Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo”

An eighties icon that is finding fresh footing, Raymond Weil has extended its GPHG-winning dress watch collection with the Millesime Small Seconds 39 mm “Tuxedo”. Available in three appealing colourways, the Millesime features Art Deco-inspired typography that brings a surprising degree of energy to the line-up’s familiar sector-style dial. Initial thoughts Raymond Weil was one of the biggest names in Swiss watchmaking in the 1980s and 1990s. Raymond Weil himself was one of the first entrepreneurs to see a future for mechanical watchmaking amidst the rubble of the quartz crisis, launching his eponymous brand in 1976. While peak production is in the past, the brand seems to have rebounded with a collection of well-received dress watches and savvy limited editions. The new Millesime Small Seconds embodies the carefully considered details that have underpinned the brand’s recent resurgence. It’s not revolutionary by any means, but at just US$2,295 it offers an affordable entry point to the world of Swiss dress watches. Affordability is one thing, but appeal is another. Fortunately the 39 mm Millesime hits many of the right notes in each of the three colourways, including a so-called ‘tuxedo’ configuration in either classic back and white or on-trend burgundy, as well as a dark blue option that might be the dark horse favourite. Art Deco trio All three models have a few key things in common, starting with the stainless steel case. The Millesime measures 39 mm in ...

Introducing – Embark Upon a Space Odyssey with the Ressence Type 9 IKE Monochrome
Ressence Type 9 IKE Feb 26, 2026

Introducing – Embark Upon a Space Odyssey with the Ressence Type 9 IKE

A compact evolution of Ressence’s signature pebble-shaped case designs and original display of the time that circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun, the Type 9 is the brand’s smallest, lightest and most accessibly priced watch to date. Given its minimalist display and compact (wearable) proportions, the Type 9 has been singled out […]

The 10 Best Gold Chronographs in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 24, 2026

The 10 Best Gold Chronographs in 2026

Let's face it: a gold chronograph is not exactly the most subtle style of wristwatch you can sport. Combine the high complication, the complex multi-level dial, and the gleaming precious-metal execution of the case (and, in some instances, also the bracelet), and the result tends to be a prominent, weighty, and expensive timepiece that inevitably attracts attention. Unlike standard, three-handed gold dress watches, gold chronographs are not built to be shy, discreetly hiding their assets beneath a shirt cuff. All the more reason, then, to make sure that if you're bold enough to rock one of these watches, that the face it's presenting to the world is one that inspires awe and admiration. Here are 10 of our favorites from an elite lineup of respected watchmakers.  [toc-section heading="Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding Chronograph"] Price: $95,400, Case Size: 41mm, Case Height: 11mm, Lug Width: 23mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Audemars Piguet Caliber 4401 Audemars Piguet’s frosted white gold, used here for the 41mm case of a vibrant, blue-dialed chronograph within Audemars Piguet’s flagship Royal Oak collection, is achieved through a process of hammering the gold with a diamond-tipped tool to create tiny indentations - a process that dates back to ancient Florence. The dial’s surface is enhanced with the signature Royal Oak Grand Tapisserie texture and highlighted by contrasting golden-toned subdials at 3, 6,...

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic Review: Stealth Meets Genta Design WatchAdvice
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Feb 20, 2026

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic Review: Stealth Meets Genta Design

The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic is a stealth watch with Genta’s DNA baked into the material. But does it stand on its own? Let’s find out! What We Love The Ingenieur design is adapted to black ceramic Dial legibility is still present Finishing of the material makes this a standout watch What We Don’t Lack of the quick link adjustment system on the bracelet The all-black look may not be for everyone’s tastes The 42 mm sizing makes this watch wear different to the Ingenieur 40 and may not suit a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur dominated IWC’s 2025 Watches & Wonders releases, expanding into new sizes and materials. And, of course, there was the quickly sold-out green dial inspired by the vintage Ingenieur SL worn by Brad Pitt in F1: The Movie. But one model possibly stood apart from the rest: the 42 mm all-black ceramic Ingenieur. Not because it was louder, but because it fundamentally changed how the Ingenieur is built, worn, and perceived. We were lucky to catch up with IWC’s CEO, Chris Grainger-Herr, who explained that developing the Ingenieur in an all-ceramic case and bracelet wasn’t as simple as remaking the watch in a different material. Ceramic is notoriously hard to work with, and it is not a case of a simple material swap. It requires a lot more attention – one reason why the Ingenieur is in a slightly larger 42 mm size. Myself, Chris Grai...

The Audible Joy of Alarm Watches Worn & Wound
Vulcain Feb 20, 2026

The Audible Joy of Alarm Watches

One of the most useful watch complications in horological history is also one of its most forgotten.  The ring of a mechanical alarm may seem like a lost artifact, like a rotary phone dial or a manual transmission, all once the necessities of 20th century civilization. And yet, functionality of a settable and mechanical-winding alarm into the tiny confines of a wristwatch is an impressive mechanical feat, one underrated among dive bezels, world timers, pulsations scales, and tachymeters.  The alarm watch was meant for the everyman, whether they’re travelers, titans of industry, or merely early risers. Just like there is appreciation for a watch’s ability to do more than just tell time, there is the aural sensation for a watch to produce something more for the senses than just sight. Eterna was the first to patent an alarm caliber as early as 1908, eventually introducing an alarm wristwatch in 1914 at the Swiss National Exhibition in Berne. It was an impressive achievement, but it wouldn’t last: there was the problem that the alarm could only sound for less than 10 seconds, barely enough to rouse a moderate sleeper, as well as the fact that when the alarm was set, accuracy suffered.  However, the Eterna did achieve something significant: it spurred Vulcain, in nearby La Chaux-de-Fonds, to begin developing its own alarm mechanism in 1942. The resulting Vulcain Cricket, debuting in 1947, fixed its predecessor’s shortcomings: namely, separate barrels for the alarm s...

Hands On: Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Blue Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Feb 20, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Blue Enamel

One of the most complicated offerings rolled out during Breguet’s landmark 250th anniversary collection from last year, the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 is a new take on a complication (and movement) that’s been in the brand’s catalogue for decades. The 7365 repackages a historical, but reworked, calibre inside the new style case also used for the Classique Souscription, matched with a striking blue enamel dial that nonetheless retains the classic Breguet hands and numerals. The result is bolder and brighter than the average Breguet, but still recognisable. Initial thoughts More than any other anniversary model, the minute repeater 7365 demonstrates the rejuvenation of Breguet led by chief executive Gregory Kissling and his team. Even though the foundations of the watch go back decades, the 7365 looks fresh. It still looks and feels like a Breguet, but it doesn’t feel derivative. The case is similar to that found on other anniversary models, and a good diversification away from the old-school Breguet wristwatch case with straight lugs. Importantly, the case is quite a bit smaller than that of the 7365’s predecessor, which gives this a much more elegant profile. The dial is beautifully furnished with solid gold numerals and hands, but the bleu de France dial is too bleu for my tastes. It’s a few shades too bright for something this classical. That said, I can see the appeal of the colour, especially for someone who feels the average Breguet is too conser...

Introducing – The Summer-Ready Citizen Tsuyosa Shore, now with Rotating Bezel Monochrome
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore now Feb 20, 2026

Introducing – The Summer-Ready Citizen Tsuyosa Shore, now with Rotating Bezel

Ever since its introduction in 2022, the Citizen Tsuyosa collection has left its mark on the accessible, sporty-chic, automatic watch market. In a nutshell, it is one of the most advisable models for anyone looking for a fairly-priced, stylished and well-built watch. Over the years, we’ve seen several evolutions, with new dial colours, a smaller […]

Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGX359 and SBGX361, Featuring their Smallest and Thinnest Quartz Movement Yet Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 16, 2026

Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGX359 and SBGX361, Featuring their Smallest and Thinnest Quartz Movement Yet

While design hallmarks have come and gone, few say “Grand Seiko” quite like the iconic Snowflake dial, first introduced in 2005. Inspired by the frosty Hotaka mountain range in the brand’s home prefecture, Nagano, light plays across the fine texture to emphasize the slight variations in depth on the surface of the dial. The result is nothing short of stunning, and helped shape Grand Seiko and their philosophy of the “Nature of Time”. So how do you build on an icon? You introduce tasteful variations. Easier said than done, of course, but Grand Seiko has done it successfully before, by introducing the Skyflake dial, a light blue version of the Snowflake. And now, we have two new Snowflake and Skyflake models to showcase the evolution of the icon: the SBGX359 and SBGX361, in a compact 33mm case, making them the smallest in the Grand Seiko 9F line yet. Even more impressive is the 9.1mm thickness, which is only possible thanks to the Caliber 9F51 quartz movement, which is the first new movement in the 9F line since 2020, and allows for an accuracy of ± 10 seconds a year. In natural Grand Seiko fashion, each movement is hand-assembled by watchmakers at the Shinshu Watch Studio at the brand’s Shiojiri facility and feature three-month aged quartz crystals and a manual regulation switch for accuracy fine-tuning during servicing. All of that is to say that this is not a basic quartz movement; it’s a Grand Seiko quartz movement, which is sure to excel in both function ...

Introducing: The Baltic MR Moissanite - The Final MR…For Now Fratello
Breguet style or dressy roulette-inspired Feb 12, 2026

Introducing: The Baltic MR Moissanite - The Final MR…For Now

Baltic’s MR, which stands for “micro-rotor,” is the perfect affordable flex on the wrist. The 36mm watches in the collection feature a sturdy field-watch case paired with either a Breguet-style or dressy roulette-inspired dial and, to top it all off, a micro-rotor movement. For around €700, the Baltic MR offers unmatched style and attitude, even […] Visit Introducing: The Baltic MR Moissanite - The Final MR…For Now to read the full article.

Review: The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Oceania Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Oceania Limited Feb 11, 2026

Review: The New Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Oceania Limited Edition

To celebrate the partnership with the World Surf League, Breitling has released a new SuperOcean Heritage Oceania limited edition in 42mm and 36mm, the perfect summer watch pair! What We Love The white dial is great for summer Blued hands and indices are a really nice touch The new Milanese bracelet is super comfortable on the wrist What We Don’t The domed crystal is still an issue, but less so with the white dial No comfort adjust on the bracelet for the warmer days A rubber strap option could have been a good inclusion as well Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 According to the latest data, around 85% of Australians live no further than 50km from the coast. And the majority of those are based on the East Coast. We are an island nation after all, with most of the interior of the country uninhabited. So, for those reading this who live in Australia, the ocean isn’t a backdrop; it’s a way of life for many. From the long, rolling breaks of the Gold Coast to the raw, reef-lined coastlines of North Queensland, to the rugged beaches down south. We, along with our New Zealand cousins, love the sand and surf. So it is no surprise that the Breitling SuperOcean is a great-selling watch in this part of the world. Originally conceived in the 1950s as a professional dive watch with a distinctly elegant edge, the SuperOcean Heritage has since evolved into something broader: a watch that speaks to ocean cultur...

Aurum Awakened: Armin Strom Unveils the New Tribute 2 Aurum Edition Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Unveils Feb 11, 2026

Aurum Awakened: Armin Strom Unveils the New Tribute 2 Aurum Edition

The new Armin Strom Tribute 2 Aurum caught my attention immediately with its striking gold-coated mainplate hand-finished with the rare tremblage engraving technique, giving the dial-side an exceptional textured surface that plays with light and depth. The post Aurum Awakened: Armin Strom Unveils the New Tribute 2 Aurum Edition appeared first on Quill & Pad.

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime SJX Watches
Patek Philippe World Time ref 5330G Feb 10, 2026

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime

One of Louis Vuitton’s most distinctive complications, the Escale Worldtime was recently revised and upgraded, giving it improved legibility and an in-house movement. The nips and tucks have given the watch a sleeker, more refined aesthetic, while making the technicolour dial more readable. It’s still far from a “tool” watch, but the second-generation Escale Worldtime has all of the charm of the original that’s now grounded in solid, credible watchmaking. Initial thoughts I’m biased because I am a fan of the original Worldtime, right from when it was launched in 2014. The original was decidedly impractical, way too expensive, but an imaginatively different take on the classic Louis Cottier world time. The new model has all of the appeal of the original, but with a superior execution in substance and form. The new version has smoothed out all of the rough edges of the original, quite literally in some respects. The case is now finer, with more refined lines and a gently domed crystal, for instance. Functionality has improved substantially with a hand for the minutes and a jumping hours display. And the movement is now a latest-generation calibre, part of a family of industrial-haute horlogerie movements developed by LFT that is an achievement on its own. The LFT VO12.01 movement features a 22k pink gold rotor with a guilloche rim The Escale Worldtime costs over US$90,000, or about 10% more than the Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5330G in white gold. The Escale, ...

Introducing – The Snow-White Alpina x Label Noir Alpiner Manufacture Date Special Edition Monochrome
Alpina x Label Noir Alpiner Feb 10, 2026

Introducing – The Snow-White Alpina x Label Noir Alpiner Manufacture Date Special Edition

Renowned for its rugged all-terrain watches for outdoor adventures, Alpina goes off-piste with its new Alpiner Manufacture Date watch made in collaboration with Geneva customisation expert, Label Noir. Reflecting Alpina’s close ties to the alpine world, the Alpina x Label Noir features a snow-white dial and an unprecedented (for the brand) hammered case. The 130-piece […]

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Feb 10, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...

Urwerk’s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V in Ceramic SJX Watches
Urwerk s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V Feb 9, 2026

Urwerk’s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V in Ceramic

Urwerk continues to iterate its most accessible model with the UR-100V “LightSpeed” Ceramic. The Lightspeed is essentially a variation of an earlier model, with ceramic composite replacing carbon composite. The ceramic composite incorporates fibreglass and carbon fibre, giving it a textured surface and greater strength. Though it’s relatively affordable compared to other Urwerk models, the UR-100V still retains the brand’s signature elements, including a wandering hours display and various astronomical-time indicators on the dial. Initial thoughts The UR-100V now exists in a multitude of variations, perhaps too many, but the Lightspeed stands out as one of the most interesting in both material and style. The ceramic composite case is appealing for both its appearance and utility – it is hard, strong, and lightweight – and is being used for the first time by Urwerk. It also doesn’t cost that much more than earlier versions of the model, making this iteration more compelling. More broadly, I would have liked Urwerk to vary the display across the UR-100V line, beyond the case material, making each iteration more distinct. As they stand, most share the same dial and indications, with only the case changing for each edition. Light and white Because the case is a ceramic composite rather than pure ceramic, it has a textured surface with a slight glossiness. These characteristics stem from the fibreglass and carbon fibre sheets within the composite, explaining the w...