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Where to begin with Seiko in 2019? The Japanese watchmaker has been on a veritable roll for quite some time now, but for the last year of the decade, they really delivered. Whether it be the new Prospex LX Line Diver taking home the prestigious award for best Diver’s watch at GPHG 2019, a completely … ContinuedThe post These were 5 of the best new Seiko watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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It’s safe to say that 2019 was a good year for TAG Heuer, with the Swiss watchmaker celebrating 50 years of their iconically square Monaco wristwatch with four striking limited editions. It wasn’t just about the Monaco, however, as TAG also brought out some great new additions to their storied Carrera line-up as well as … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer’s triple threat of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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2019 was an exciting year for Tudor, as the iconic Swiss watchmaker released several models that collectively surprised and even inspired the greater horological community. And while some of the novelties unveiled last year were contentious at the time, I think people’s attitudes have softened towards them and, more importantly, it’s just great to see … ContinuedThe post 3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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2020 has barely begun and Longines has already come out swinging with this - the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. Representing the latest addition to the Swiss watchmaker’s ever-popular Heritage Collection, the Classic Chronograph 1946 is a faithful re-creation of a timepiece Longines produced back in the ’40s. The pared-back aesthetic of this homage piece … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Karel Rotation by talented Czech watchmaker and new AHCI member Ludek Seryn.
Hodinkee
The third-generation watchmaker will discuss the evolution of Caliber 321. (The movement that went to the Moon!)
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The more you look at different watches, the more critical you become, as you better understand what the watchmaker and designer were trying to achieve, and how successful they were at executing it in the final watch. This year, I got a lot of opportunities to handle hundreds of different watches, both new and vintage, … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Loved the world over by collectors and watch brands alike, the Zenith El Primero has been keeping the world on time since 1969. And Rolex choosing to use the movement was high praise for Zenith indeed. The El Primero is still considered an exceptional chronograph to this day, and watchmaker Aston Tracy explains why.
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There are myriad impressive things about Seiko’s Presage collection. But if we had to single out one overriding thing that the Japanese watchmaker’s dress watches do better than almost anyone else, rather predictably, it would be their dials. Pound for pound, the Presage dress watches and their rapturous range of dials represent amazing value for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The beautifully brown Seiko Presage SRPD36J1 and SSA392J1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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François-Henry Bennahmias is one of the most successful chief executives in Swiss watchmaking: since taking the top job at Audemars Piguet in 2012, revenues at the watchmaker have more than doubled, to well over a billion Swiss francs. He took some flak earlier this year with the high profile launch of an entirely new line, the Code 11.59, which was widely panned at the time. But Mr Bennahmias appears to have been partially vindicated after the unique Code 11.59 skeleton tourbillon (which I was surprisingly drawn to) sold for a million francs – more than four times its presale high estimate. But Mr Bennahmias does not seem to be the sort to look back reflectively, he is forging ahead full speed with rolling out new iterations of the Code 11.59, while also working on “huge” and “very cool” collaboration that will be announced in mid 2020. During a recent visit to Singapore a month ago, Mr Bennahmias discussed the Code 11.59, while dropping a few hints about an upcoming vintage remake, as well as the upcoming partnership. The interview was edited for clarity and length. I really like what you have done recently with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Skeleton in black ceramic. At the same time, I hear that there are some updates and extensions planned for the Code 11.59 in 2020. Can you talk anything about that? No. [With a smile] Can you say anything about the Code 11.59 for Only Watch, which is a two-tone skeleton of sorts? I saw the watch in Geneva; two-tone doe...
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Created to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s prolific Spring Drive movement, SBGY002 is a limited edition dress watch for discerning fans of the Japanese watchmaker’s signature snowflake dial. Hewn from solid 18k yellow gold, the case of the rarified timepiece is signature SBGY and, as a result, measures in at just 38.5mm and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The timelessly elegant Grand Seiko SBGY002 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just over two weeks ago the annual George Daniels lecture took place at the City University of London, an institution supported by the late watchmaker’s charitable trust. This year’s speaker at the sold-out event was none other than Roger W. Smith, protege and successor to Daniels. Just over an hour long, including questions, the lecture is erudite, accessible and packed with nerdy trivia, like the fact that a movement running at 28,800 beats per hour will make 252,288,000 vibrations per year. Roger explained the history and rationale behind the mechanical watch, and how watchmakers are working to improve it even today. That naturally led into the lubrication-free co-axial escapement invented by Daniels (pictured above), which Roger delves into in a satisfyingly detailed manner, like comparing the sliding friction of a lever escapement against the tangential impulse of the co-axial. Fortunately, the entire proceedings were recorded and are now available online:
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USP – the acronym for “unique selling point”. A watchmaker’s USP is paramount to their success, and if you look at the general consensus of what’s considered the best brands out there, they’ve all got it - they each excel at something that puts them a cut above the rest. Whether it’s Rolex and their storied … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An educator by profession, Josh Shapiro had a longtime interest in watchmaking, which sharpened into a pursuit of traditional engine turning in 2013. After several years of practice – and a roomful of guilloche machines – the self-taught guillocheur and watchmaker produced a handful of dials for American watchmaker David Walter in 2016. And last year Josh launched his own brand, J.N. Shapiro, which he now pursues full-time, while remaining a part-time vice principal at a high school in Los Angeles. His debut watch was the Infinity Series, named after the Infinity Weave, a proprietary guilloche pattern he invented. The first J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series delivered, the watch pictured here, was finished earlier this year – and is numbered “N.01”. Though Josh offers a variety of options for the case and dial colours, this watch hews closely to the prototype, with a rose gold case, silver dial, and blue hands. It’s important to note this is actually the first watch Josh sold, and consequently shows some of the inevitable inconsistencies of a watchmaker’s early work. There are a couple of stray marks and burrs on the dial, and a bit of lint, but the early work of independent watchmakers is usually inconsistent, which is part of the hand-finished charm, and also proof of how artisans evolve. Josh’s subsequent dials have improved tremendously. Josh Shapiro with one of his straight-line machines. Photo – J.N. Shapiro The Infinity Series has a simple but effect...
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Tissot has a stellar reputation for well-made watches at notably affordable prices, like the recent Ballade Powermatic 80 or Heritage Petite Second. Switzerland’s biggest watchmaker by production, Tissot maintains a vast portfolio of vintage-inspired, dress and technology-focused watches, including a skeleton wristwatch with modern styling. Skeletonised watches are intriguing as the intricate mechanics that make a movement tick are front and centre. Combining both aesthetics and mechanics can be a tough nut to crack, however, as legibility in particular suffers when a movement is open-worked. Tissot managed to nail both looks and legibility with the T-Complication Squelette, which retails for a little under US$2000. At 43mm in diameter and 12mm high, the T-Complication Squelette is a sizeable watch on the wrist – it has presence – but also an expansive canvas of gears and springs. The stainless steel case is fully brushed with substantial “horn” lugs, and a handful of interesting details that contribute to its character. Most notably is the asymmetry on its upper right flank that is not initially obvious. The case subtly widens from the crown to the top-right lug, filling the angular space between the lug and case that’s present on the other three lugs. And the signed crown has an interesting knurled pattern reminiscent of a turbine, creating a subtle mechanical motif that is echoed in the movement. The bezel is relatively narrow and simply gets out of the way....
Time+Tide
Everyone’s first Rolex purchase is important - it’s a milestone that, for most, carries with it a great amount of pride and sense of accomplishment. And for almost all of us out there lucky enough to have bought their inaugural timepiece from the legacy watchmaker, it isn’t something that was entered into lightly; we have known … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The flying tourbillon wristwatch for women – the Legacy Machine FlyingT – that MB&F; launched last year foreshadowed its latest watch – the Legacy Machine Thunderdome, boasting the fastest ever triple-axis tourbillon developed by independent watchmaker Eric Coudray. No doubt multi-axis tourbillons are hardly new, especially after Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled its first Gyrotourbillon in 2005 – which was also developed by Mr Coudray – but the LM Thunderdome takes the concept further by every metric, primarily by building on past ideas to achieve higher cage velocities than ever before. Most intriguingly, the Thunderdome movement incorporates a tourbillon lever escapement first devised by Albert H. Potter – a talented American watchmaker who worked in Geneva in the late 19th century – as well as an unusual multi-axis tourbillon that utilises a carrousel for its outermost cage, christened the TriAx. The ingenious construction of the tourbillon is thanks to Mr Coudray, who now runs complications workshop TEC Ebauches and is best known for the numerous exotic tourbillon movements he has developed. After his two-decades at Jaeger-LeCoultre where he became the resident technical genius, Mr Coudray worked for several brands of varying levels of credibility, including at Cabestan where he perfected its vertical tourbillon, and more recently at Cecil Purnell, where he created the Spherion tri-axial tourbillon, which has a similar construction to the Thunderdome. Besides...
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It has been a big year for Panerai’s distinctive Submersible range, with the new and now standalone collection featuring heavily at the watchmaker’s 2019 SIHH showing. The amphibious timepieces, while varied, have been a great opportunity for Panerai to show off some of their newest innovative materials. Case in point is this Submersible, the BMG-TECH … ContinuedThe post Rolling in the deep with the Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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This has unquestionably been the year of the contentious steel sports watch, with just about every watchmaker and their Bernese entering the fray in what has to be the most hotly contested genre of timepieces in the current watch market. Chief among these new steely provocateurs is Chopard’s Alpine Eagle. We’ve been fortunate enough to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Chopard’s svelte Alpine Eagle 41mm with Bernina Grey dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Horological disruptors Hublot are hosting an exhibition right now at the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts (MUDAC) in Lausanne, Switzerland … but it’s not for watches. No, the Swiss watchmaker is hosting what is said to be one of the best sneaker exhibitions ever assembled. And while this may sound slightly off-brand for … ContinuedThe post Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Having recently coming a licensee of the U.S. Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron, better known as the Blue Angels, IWC is marking the occasion with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”. Already the longtime licensee for the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School – hence the Pilot’s Watch Top Gun editions – IWC is the latest watchmaker to sign with the Blue Angels. The team has had several watchmakers become licensees over the years, first Breitling in the 1990s, followed by Citizen. The new Blue Angels chronograph is in blue and yellow, the colours of the Blue Angels’ emblem. The dial is a dark, metallic blue with a yellow track for the hours. The case is in matte black ceramic and measures 44.5mm wide. The Blue Angels logo engraved on the back Inside is the cal. 89361, the brand’s top of the line, in-house chronograph. It’s an automatic movement with IWC’s signature Pellaton winding mechanism. The chronograph has both a flyback function as well as the hour and minute registers co-axial at 12 o’clock. Key facts and price Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels” Ref. IW389008 Diameter: 44.5mm Height: 15.7mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 89361 Functions: Time, date, and flyback chronograph Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz Power reserve: 68 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Limited edition: No Availability: From November 2019, at both boutiques and retailers Price: US$...
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Editor’s note: With so much attention and speculation surrounding the all-steel variants of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak 15400 and now 15500, it’s easy to forget that the Holy Trinity watchmaker also offers their most prized timepiece in two-tone steel and 18k Pink Gold. And while it’s easy to comprehend why the stainless steel variants are … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang collection is unquestionably one of the most varied and nuanced in the Swiss watchmaker’s catalogue. The quintessentially tonneau-shaped timepiece, which has only been around since 2014, has spawned quite a few different iterations, in a number of different sizes and materials, since its inception. In fact, as of right now, … ContinuedThe post 3 Hublot Spirit of Big Bangs for 3 different occasions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![Sotheby’s to Sell A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Service Watch in Steel [Withdrawn]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/lange-1815-steel-service-watch-3.jpg)
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Long before the Odysseus “sport-elegant” watch, A. Lange & Söhne already had a serially produced timepiece in stainless steel. In the late 1990s, just as the brand was rapidly gaining traction as the preeminent German watchmaker – remember that it had only unveiled its wristwatch collection in 1994 – the company rolled out the fabled 1815 service watch. (NB: Sotheby’s has withdrawn the watch from the sale.) The rationale behind the watch was simple: a loaner for clients who had sent in their Lange wristwatch for servicing. Staying true to the exceptionally high standards the start-up brand had established for itself, the loaner was not a disposable or cut-rate watch. It was a time-only 1815 that was almost identical to the standard model – with the same highly finished movement and solid silver dial – except the case was steel while the dial was black with white markings, a colour not available on the regular production watch. Note the case back engraving. Photo – Sotheby’s Reputedly around 80-120 of these service watches were made. They were produced in small batches over a period, perhaps over a handful of years from the late 1990s to the early 2000s. The number might not seem like much, but with the company being relatively new at the time, the number of watches returned for servicing was presumably quite small. The movement in the service watch is finished to exactly the same level as that on a standard watch. Photo – Sotheby’s The 1815 serv...
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TAG Heuer has been using its venerable chronograph-equipped Calibre 16 movement for more than two decades now. In fact, the storied movement has been utilised by the Swiss watchmaker in a great many of its models since 2005, when it was first released in the then new and completely overhauled Carrera. It’s pretty easy to … ContinuedThe post 3 TAG Heuer Calibre 16s that can do it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Just days after the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue made for Only Watch 2019 sold for a record 1.8m Swiss francs, the watchmaker has unveiled the regular production version of the same – the Astronomic Souveraine. While the last unique F.P. Journe produced for Only Watch eventually made into production in a significantly different form, the Astronomic Souveraine is largely the same. Save for the steel case, dial colours, and movement decoration, the Astronomic Souveraine is identical to the unique Only Watch creation. Inspired by a pocket watch Francois-Paul Journe produced in 1987 – itself inspired by the earlier works of Breguet and George Daniels – the Astronomic Souveraine has 18 complications, shown on two faces on each side of the case. These include showing both mean solar time and sidereal time, as well as an annual calendar, equation of time, tourbillon with remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism, and a minute repeater. Despite its complexity, the indications are remarkably well-presented, and furthermore, can all be adjusted via a single crown. Though the case is 44mm wide – the largest wristwatch ever by F.P. Journe – it remains notably compact at just 13.8mm high, helped in part by his ultra-thin minute repeater mechanism with flat hammers and gongs. As with most F.P. Journe watches, the dial on the front is solid gold, as are the bridges and plate of the movement. The 758-part cal. 1619 is equipped with double barrels, which are partly visible ...
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Independent watchmaker Raul Pages debuted his first wristwatch in 2016, after several years spent restoring watches and clocks at Parmigiani and then the Patek Philippe Museum. Limited to just 10 watches, the Soberly Onyx wristwatch contained a reworked and highly decorated Cyma movement from the 1950s. The very last of the series, however, is strikingly different from the rest. The Arabic Calligraphy pièce unique is a custom commission from a European client, an important collector of both vintage and modern watches who already has two other Soberly Onyx watches. The client wanted a cloisonné enamel dial bearing the phrase ٱلْـحَـمْـدُ للهِ, or alhamdulillah. Most commonly used by Muslims but also by Arabic speakers of other denominations, it translates as “thank God” or “praise be to God”. Raul recruited Jean-Luc Peter, an enamel artisan who has also done work for Hermes, to create this dial. Elegant and striking in form, the phrase is executed in a mustard enamel and outlined in fine gold wire, as is traditional for cloisonné enamel. It sits agains a vivid green background that complements the rose gold hands and case beautifully. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard Soberly Onyx, which has a polished onyx stone dial. That means the case is 40mm in diameter and a slim 9.3mm high. Inside is a movement that started out as a Cyma 586K from the 1950s, but one that has been heavily modified by Raul. The bridges were reshaped and ...
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TAG Heuer has just unveiled the all-new Monaco 02, and it’s a big deal because it’s the first Monaco in the storied watch’s 50-year history to utilise a completely in-house movement. As a result, the Swiss watchmaker is kissing goodbye to the old Sellita SW300-based Calibre 12 movement, which has been a stalwart of the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer bids adieu to the Monaco Calibre 12 with a Final Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Shortly after Seiko announced it was pulling out of Baselworld 2020, fellow Japanese watchmaker Citizen announced it was staying put, along with all of its subsidiary brands, save for Arnold & Son. According to a report in Chronos Japan, the decision was made in the summer, after some internal debate as to whether or not to remain in Baselworld, where Citizen has long boasted one of the most avant-garde booths, year after year. The Citizen booth at Baselworld 2019 Citizen – which launched a record-setting quartz watch at Baselworld 2019 – might have moved to the recently announced Watches & Wonders in Geneva, but that did not happen. So the brand, along with its subsidiaries Bulova, Frederique Constant, Alpina, and Miyota, will continue to exhibit at Baselworld. Only Arnold & Son, a relatively high-end Swiss brand also owned by Citizen, will exhibit at Watches & Wonders. According to an industry source, the remaining major Japanese watchmaker, G-Shock maker Casio, will also continue to show at Baselworld. Source: Chronos Japan
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In a first for watchmaking, an establishment watchmaker has collaborated with an auctioneer in creating a pair of limited edition wristwatches, resulting in the El Primero A386 designed by Phillips. The tie-up has resulted in a pair of watches, one in steel with a “tropical” dial, and the other in striking black and gold – with the total number made being just 69, a nod to the year of the El Primero’s launch. The two watches are actually part of the same creative process that spawned the platinum El Primero A386 One-Off that will soon be sold for charity. Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips were responsible for conceiving the look of both watches. According to Phillips, the duo imagined being designers of the brand-new El Primero in 1969, rather than looking back from today and creating a modern remake. The yellow gold El Primero is consequently a combination that was common back in the day – think Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” though never produced by Zenith. And the steel version is not actually a “tropical” dial, rather it is a reference to the brown colours fashionable in design and apparel during the 1960s. Hence it has its sub-dials in three shades of brown, a riff on the “tricolour” registers of the original A386. And the steel watch comes with a bonus: a steel “ladder” bracelet with straight end links that’s a replica of the same found on the original A386. Key facts and price El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition Ref. 30.P38...
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