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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Mancheront Pacer delivers an ingenious twist on the Pulsometer function Time+Tide
Nov 15, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Mancheront Pacer delivers an ingenious twist on the Pulsometer function

It’s easy to forget that this hobby we love had its origins in life-changing situations. These watches we wear were once more than just physical expressions of our stylistic tastes. They helped plot our courses over land and sea. They enabled some of the bravest people of a generation to rendezvous for war-time missions at … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Mancheront Pacer delivers an ingenious twist on the Pulsometer function appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

AFL superstar Buddy Franklin teams up with Zenith and what that means for the brand Time+Tide
Zenith Nov 15, 2021

AFL superstar Buddy Franklin teams up with Zenith and what that means for the brand

Lance “Buddy” Franklin is a sporting giant in both the literal and metaphorical sense. Standing at 1.99m tall, the Sydney Swans forward is the seventh-greatest goal-kicker in AFL history and the most recent player to have notched 100 goals in a season. Today, it’s been announced that he’s been snapped up by Zenith as a … ContinuedThe post AFL superstar Buddy Franklin teams up with Zenith and what that means for the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The alternative sports watch: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, new in Titanium case Deployant
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 new Nov 13, 2021

The alternative sports watch: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, new in Titanium case

The watch is an excellent offering from the brand, and is very appealing within the the dive/sports range chronograph segment. Overall, the watch looks great, and has a pedigree movement to run it. At a retail price of US$28,700 for 18K white or rose gold and US$18,500 for titanium, the watch presents a much welcome variety to the dominant Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert” Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Nov 13, 2021

HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert”

IWC have the pilot’s watch game sussed out and their Top Gun series are among the toughest of the bunch, with a no-holds barred approach to the watch as a vital flight instrument. You might recognise a whiff of nostalgia in the large sword hands and classic onion crown big enough to twiddle with proper … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Nov 11, 2021

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...

The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive Nov 10, 2021

The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue

I love my Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Spring”. It gets a lot of wear time on my wrist because I enjoy its cherry blossom inspired pink hue, making it a very distinct timepiece. But it is not just the hue that is compelling. Its “rock pattern” texture (as the brand refers to it) is a fan-favourite … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” everything we hoped for? Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” Nov 10, 2021

Is the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” everything we hoped for?

Speculation has been rampant ever since Tudor announced their renewed partnership with Marine Nationale. With the vintage M.N. issued divers highly coveted and collectable, many were excited for a chance to own a modern take on such a watch. We previously gave our own predictions, detailing what was likely, unlikely, and most fitting for a … ContinuedThe post Is the new Tudor Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” everything we hoped for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Nov 10, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”

Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers. Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic. The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s Initial thoughts Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados. The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn...

Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson spotted wearing an IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar at the premiere of Netflix’s “Red Notice” Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Nov 10, 2021

Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson spotted wearing an IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar at the premiere of Netflix’s “Red Notice”

When a film has three huge Hollywood names on its marquee, you know a lot of eyeballs will be tuning in. Reportedly Netflix’s highest budget film to date, the $200m USD production Red Notice stars Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, Ryan Reynolds, and Gal Gadot and is jam-packed with action sequences to provide viewers with some … ContinuedThe post Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson spotted wearing an IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar at the premiere of Netflix’s “Red Notice” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet FPJ H Moser & Nov 9, 2021

Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021

Luxury watches can command exorbitant price tags at charity auctions and when piece uniques are on the table, the bidding wars inevitably heat up. We saw this recently during the Pink Dial Project auction, which Time+Tide was proud to be a partner of, and the trend continued at Only Watch, one of the largest recurring … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X Revolution
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X Nov 9, 2021

Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

Thirty years after the last Countach left its factory, Lamborghini announced a 21-century environment-conscious remake in August this year: the Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4 hybrid. A perfect complement to this insane piece of engineering and design is the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X, the latest creation from the manufacture’s partnership with Lamborghini Squadra Corse.

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch Time+Tide
Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium Nov 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch

Fifty Fathoms.  It’s a reference to an antiquated British unit of measure of approximately 91 and a half metres, but in the realm of horology, it’s synonymous with one of the first (along with Rolex’s Submariner) purpose-built dive watches, and its history is long and storied. First introduced in 1953, the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The New Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A Deployant
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref Nov 8, 2021

Review: The New Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A

The annual calendar complication is synonymous with Patek Philippe. Not only does the brand have a sizeable collection of annual calendar pieces, it was also the first brand to commercialise the complication back in 1996. Ten years later, the annual calendar complication was combined with the chronograph for the first time in a Patek PhilippeRead More

MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else Time+Tide
Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine Nov 8, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else

NOTE: This article has been updated to reflect Isotope Watches recently making a change to the movement within both the Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and the Hydrium Will Return. I’m going to share with you a very unpopular opinion of mine. Limited Editions (LEs) absolutely have a place in the wristwatch market. When I say that, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Isotope Watches Hydrium Burnt Tangerine and Will Return are fresh, bold and unlike anything else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG SJX Watches
Nov 7, 2021

Interview: Raymond Loretan, President of GPHG

A member of Switzerland’s diplomatic corps for some two decades – he was the Swiss Consul General in New York City until 2007 – Raymond Loretan was tapped to become the President of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Just before the 2021 awards ceremony took place in Geneva, we sat down with Mr Loretan to get his thoughts on how the GPHG has evolved and where it is going. Raymond Loretan making the opening speech at the 2021 GPHG ceremony. Photo – GPHG Benjamin Teisseire: You have overseen profound changes at the GPHG since you took over as president in 2018. Is everything going as planned? Raymond Loretan: So far yes. We created the Academy last year and it represents a big change in paradigm for the Grand Prix. It worked well with the 350 members but with some glitches, which we have now learned from. This year, it worked even more smoothly with over 500 members of the Academy. No technical issues with the digital platforms and academicians were involved at all stages in the selection process. But the goal is to double this number of academicians in the next two to three years. That’s because it is the way to assert the three principles on which the Grand Prix is built. First of all is the Neutrality that has been questioned in the past. With this new way of working, this important pillar will be guaranteed. The second one is Universality. The more people coming from all over the world, the better this diversity will be represented. And it...

Winter is Coming: Five Time+Tide Shop straps for the cold Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2021

Winter is Coming: Five Time+Tide Shop straps for the cold

In the northern hemisphere, it’s that time of year again. The rubber straps slowly retreat to your watch drawer, followed closely behind by those metal bracelets. As the temperatures decrease, the feeling of cold steel or stiff rubber on your wrist isn’t at all enjoyable. Thus we turn to the warmth of leather or the … ContinuedThe post Winter is Coming: Five Time+Tide Shop straps for the cold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more Time+Tide
Unimatic Nov 6, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more

In today’s watch world, Unimatic are punching above their weight. Founded in 2015 by two Italian industrial design students, this relatively new company has established a clean and unique core style in an environment flooded with start-ups and Kickstarter watches. Often the key to good design (and indeed writing) is to edit down.  Just because you … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.