Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Gone But Not Forgotten: My Favorite Pieces That I've Let Go Over The Years
'Tis better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all. -Alfred Lord Tennyson
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
29,541 articles · 1,986 videos found · page 764 of 1051
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Every Watch Tells A Story: How Borna got lucky with his Universal Genève Polerouter
It was the end of last year at the Time+Tide Club party. Drinks were poured and Santa hats were circulated. Watches were admired and discussed. There were further drinks. Impressed by the horological range on display, Andrew suddenly decided we should shoot some video of different people discussing their watches and unpacking the personal stories … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: How Borna got lucky with his Universal Genève Polerouter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet
Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: Our Latest Pre-Owned Arrivals
Panerai, Rolex, Jaeger, and more.
Deployant
New: Urwerk UR-100V Full Black Titanium Jacket
Urwerk releases a new version of their UR-100 in a new all titanium case and bracelet - the 25 piece limited Edition UR-100V Full Metal Jacket.
Time+Tide
“Price on application”: the most annoying three words any watch buyer can ever hear
I recently had to write a round-up of 24 of the most intriguing watches of 2022. The brief was for a glossy lifestyle magazine with an upmarket audience and some of the glossiest paper stock you’ll ever see. When it came to the reviews, all the usual suspects were present and correct from Rolex to … ContinuedThe post “Price on application”: the most annoying three words any watch buyer can ever hear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Entry Level: The Least-Expensive TAG Heuer Is One For The Masses
Since 1986, the TAG F1 has been a go-to first watch. And last watch.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: It's Showtime! Watch Spotting At The Apollo Theater Spring Gala
Rub the stump for good luck and let's dive on in.
Hodinkee
Interview: What Can Watches Learn From Streetwear?
Eric Peng Cheng, watch mega-collector and founder of streetwear brands Bait and Undefeated, might have the answer.
SJX Watches
Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic
A brand that made its debut just last year, Furlan Marri is all about affordable watches with retro style – just like many of its peers that entered the business around the same time. But the brand manages to set itself apart with a keen sense for design and details, something that was evident in its inaugural model, a quartz chronograph modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Now the brand unveils something that’s arguably more compelling, the Reference 2116-A “Black Sector”. Once again vintage in style with compact proportions, the “Black Sector” is however automatic. Initial thoughts My first impression of the Reference 2116-A was positive. The styling is appealing and it is well priced, despite being a major step-up from the quartz chronograph in terms of case quality and the movement. In fact, the 2116-A is very well priced. It costs about US$1,250 but brings along fancy features such as artfully finished “cow horn” lugs, which is typically found on more expensive watches or actual vintage watches. At the same time, the watch is replete with retro details that collectors will like. That includes a properly proportioned dial where everything is laid out just nice, in contrast to many modern-day “sector” dial that can appear sparse. And the Breguet numerals may not be original or novel, but they are pleasing. As appealing as it is, the 2116-A still has a few shortcomings, at least for me personally. One is the wide cover for the central boss of th...
Deployant
New: Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition
Chopard Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition. New with two novelties - a 1000 piece steel along with 250 in stainless steel and ethical 18-carat rose gold.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED
It’s a Tuesday night in New York City and I’m a few blocks away from Times Square. To anyone on the street, I’m just heading down a set of stairs to the subway. Instead, I’m knocking on an inconspicuous door at the bottom of the first flight of steps. It’s to a small bar called … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A
It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated
Big, bold and built like a tank. That’s the condensed version of the new Fortis Marinemaster M-44, which is a take on the best adventure watch possible by the brand from Grenchen. Normally lauded for their flights to the stratosphere and beyond, the Marinemaster is an under-the-radar choice from an already under-the-radar brand. From the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Four + One: The Black Pumas' Co-Founder Treats His Guitar Like He Treats His Rolex
Adrian Quesada came to our shoot packing a diverse collection of watches – and a rare Gibson.
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Havid Nagan's Paradoxical Sport Watches Are The Year's Unexpected Hit
Cali-based founder Aren Bazerkanian is inspired by Armenian culture, classical Swiss-French watchmaking, and West Coast architecture.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Why Even Bother To Make A Magazine?
Chatting about the creation, content, and design in the latest issue of HODINKEE Magazine with Nick Marino and designer Mike Renaud.
SJX Watches
Business News: Sam Hines Joins Online Auctioneer Loupe This
A watch auction veteran who has had stints at all the major auction houses – Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips – Sam Hines has just been named managing director of Loupe This, the online-only watch auction platform that was established last year. Mr Hines will be based in Hong Kong, where he will oversee the soon-to-open Loupe This operation in the city. Unlike traditional auctioneers that hold seasonal sales with the online sales in-between, Loupe This has auctions opening and closing every weekday. In the 12 months it’s been in operation, Loupe This has sold over US$15 million of watches, including major lots like a 1967 Cartier Crash “London” that sold for over US$1.5 million. Now also a shareholder in Loupe This, Mr Hines (pictured above left) joins cofounders Eric Ku (centre) and Justin Gruenberg (right), who are both prominent vintage watch dealers in the United States. Having turned a teenage hobby into a profession, Mr Ku got his start as a specialist in vintage Rolex, though he has since diversified into other genres of collectible watches as well as watch restoration and repair. Mr Gruenberg, on the other hand, had watches in his blood, having been born into the business; his father, Donald, was a major vintage watch dealer since the 1980s. The record-setting 1967 Crash that sold on Loupe This in June 2022 The pair decided to form Loupe This to cater to the increasing and unending demand for watches. “The appetite for watches is all year long,...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots)
A strong selling point for Oris watches are their value-driven pricing. The majority of their watches are priced under $4,000 USD, their Sellita-driven pieces the most approachable (closer to $2,000 USD) and their in-house calibre watches not much more (just below $4,000 USD). But the accessibility of their pieces is not limited to competitive pricing, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris launches its largest cherry Aquis yet alongside a duo of subtly two-toned calibre 400 driven divers (live shots) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Chatting with the Zenith CEO: Julien Tornare – an insider look into this grand maison
We caught up with Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith recently when he was in Singapore and he gave us some interesting inside look at the grand maison.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price
To be honest, there’s no shortage of racing-inspired chronographs in the world. The inherent link between motorsports and watchmaking essentially guarantees that brands will leap on that theme for design, with elements of high-precision engineering and timing-based supremacy binding the two worlds together. So, with the popular genre so saturated, what do the young French … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Depancel Serie-A Allure is a handsome chronograph at an attractive price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria
Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...
Time+Tide
The best women’s watches of 2022 so far…
There was a time when a women’s watch could be spotted from a mile away. Unnecessary diamonds, pretentious numerals, overpriced quartz movements and generally lazy design are all hallmarks of the stereotypical “ladies” watch. However, recent years are showing a long-awaited era of exploration from brands who have finally decided to respect feminine diversity. The … ContinuedThe post The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon
With hair neatly parted and pocket square cheekily stuffed into his breast pocket, Takuma Kawauchiya doesn’t look like a former guitarist in a rock band that once toured around the world. But music’s loss has been the watch world’s gain in a very big way. The Grand Seiko R&D; engineer and watchmaker is responsible for the T0 Constant … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: Takuma Kawauchiya unpacks the wonders of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #10 “Independent Manufactures”
Independent watchmaking presents some of the most exciting offerings the watch world has to offer today. Try your hand at the below, and find out just how well you know your independents.The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #10 “Independent Manufactures” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Cartier “Model A” Mystery Clock For a Good Cause
While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition
If Grand Seiko is known for one thing only (and they’re certainly not), it’s their breathtaking dials, and their latest limited edition pushes that tradition further skyward with the release of the high-precision, quartz-powered SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. This light blue-dialled beauty showcases the brand’s exquisite finishing work, with an ethereal, pillowy texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Four + One: There's Nothing Funny About Nick Lowe's Vintage Omegas
Before heading on tour with Elvis Costello, the singer-songwriter shares his love of watches and art.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Watches Find A Way! Jeff Goldblum Wears A Unique Customized Rolex Milgauss In 'Jurassic World: Dominion'
He spares no expense with this DLC-coated monster in our watch-related movie of the week.
SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces the Hakuto-R GPS Chronograph
Having debuted the world’s first titanium wristwatch in 1970 – it was the X-8 Chronometer with a case of nearly pure titanium – Citizen now boasts some 50 years of experience with the lightweight metal. Now the brand has taken its materials expertise into outer space, literally. Citizen supplies its proprietary Super Titanium alloy to ispace, a Japanese company that specialises in robotic spacecraft technology for landers and rovers. Ispace utilises Super Titanium for the legs of the lunar lander slated to launch around the end of 2022. Known as Hakuto-R, the ispace lunar programme now as its own commemorative watch, the Citizen Hakuto-R Collaboration Satellite Wave GPS F950. Its case is naturally Super Titanium but some components are made of “Recrystallised Titanium”, a unique, textured alloy that evokes the Moon’s surface. Initial thoughts Like many high-end quartz watches, the Hakuto-R is an electronic grand complication – it features a perpetual calendar, world time, a 1/20th of a second chronograph, and then some. Though this isn’t the first Hakuto-R collaboration, it is the most appealing in terms of aesthetics. It looks the part for a high-end quartz watch – even without the GPS sync it will run within five seconds a month. It has busy, complex aesthetics entirely appropriate for a watch packed with various cutting-edge features. But like Citizen’s other high-end electronic watches, also excellent fit and finish on the external components suc...