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Time+Tide
The Shield and the Anchor together at last: Tudor is coming into our London Discovery Studio for an exclusive four-month residency.The post Everything you need to know about the Tudor x Time+Tide Library & Lounge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
A beautiful product is nothing without a good package, and the same goes for watches. You can design the most stunning dial, back it up with a stellar mechanical movement, but put it in a case that doesn’t match, and it all falls flat. And it’s a real challenge for watchmakers and brands to get […]
Time+Tide
Vintage Seiko is the perfect starting point for dipping your toes into vintage collecting without breaking the bank.The post These three affordable vintage Seikos deserve your attention appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Timex Diver Here’s a nice little vintage Timex diver to start us off this week. Timex has definitely had a resurgence of late with them re-issuing older models for that retro look. Their original vintage offerings were definitely on the…more affordable side. That said, they are still cool and have some classic cache if you ask me. This 1970’s diver style watch has a chrome plated case that looks to be in good shape, and a plastic bezel that looks great. The dial and hands have a nice design to them and they are in excellent condition as well. The watch is powered by an early Timex non-quartz electric movement that runs fine per the seller. Neat piece that should be affordable and fun to wear. View auction here Vintage Seiko 7009-8109 Next up is a vintage Seiko 7009-8109, complete with original bracelet, box and papers. This is one of those everyday type Seikos, not really a dress watch and not really a sports watch, sort of an in betweener. The 37mm steel cushion case looks to be in nice shape, with some marks from aging but still showing the original brushed finish. The blue dial looks great, with simple stick markers and hands, and the always-present Seiko day/date win...
Monochrome
Born in the Black Forest and best known for instrument chronographs like the 417 ES and Pioneer series, Hanhart also has a quieter thread that predates its stopwatch fame: the wristwatches of the 1930s (cal. 36/39), valued for clarity and everyday utility. The Silva line infuses that heritage into a modern, time-only series. It is […]
SJX Watches
World time watches are notoriously imperfect, often out of sync with the realities of daylight savings and partial-hour time zone offsets. Yet their appeal endures thanks to their mechanical ingenuity and jet-set romance. The Richard Mille RM 63-02 Worldtimer stands out in both respects, with a planetary differential that enables the wearer adjust time zones with a simple twist of the bezel. Limited to just 100 pieces, the RM 63-02 offers commanding presence thanks to its 47 mm case in 18k rose gold and titanium, and its bold pink and burgundy colourway. While not a fit for every wrist or every budget, it’s nonetheless more wearable and accessible than expected. Initial thoughts From a strictly practical standpoint, the standard format for world time watches is inherently flawed, as about half the world observes daylight savings time for about half the year, and a fifth of the world’s population lives in time zones with partial-hour offsets. Flaws aside, they capture a certain jet set romance, and are frequently beautiful or clever. Richard Mille’s world timers are the latter, and maybe even the former too, depending on your disposition. The RM 63-02 is clever in its operational and conceptual simplicity, though the actual implementation is quite sophisticated, enabling the user to adjust to local time with a simple turn of the bezel. This functionality is reminiscent of the IWC Timezoner, which was itself based on a patent acquired from Vogard. Richard Mille’s app...
Teddy Baldassarre
Similar to Switzerland at the heart of Europe, Japan has a hierarchy of complexity in its watches, with brands like Grand Seiko often being the first to come to mind in the luxury segment. However, just like the artistic free spirits from Switzerland who uphold centuries-old principles of the craft, there is a brand with tremendous mystique that is quickly emerging as a name to be reckoned with. It simply goes by the name, Credor. A Brief History of Credor Watches Much like Grand Seiko, Credor was born as a luxury offshoot of Seiko, established in 1974 to produce precious metal watches under the "Crêt D'or" name, which translates from French as “pinnacle of gold”. The name evolved to “Credor” in the 1980s, which saw the introduction of the brand's triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. It remained as a co-brand with Seiko on watch dials throughout the ‘90s, was sold mainly in Japan, and appeared on watches that combined luxury with sport, along with select jewelry pieces. The focus on both kinds of watches – the luxury-sport and the jewelry – had one distinct commonality: a specific focus on design with a bent toward capturing a certain opulent fervor of the 1980s and ‘90s. You can see some similarities in these watches as what was coming out of Switzerland by way of a certain Gérald Genta (and the connection between he and Credor doesn’t stop there). Credor In The 1990s The 1990s are something of an inflection point for the brand, when the Seiko...
SJX Watches
The Patek Philippe approach to watchmaking has developed through a steady accumulation of choices. Since 1839, the manufacture has refined its mechanical language through proportion, regulation, and clarity in construction. Each calibre reflects priorities shaped by experience, built for durability, and adjusted for lasting performance. Understanding the technical evolution of Patek Philippe requires attention to the principles that govern its construction: structural integrity, material stability, and a consistent focus on functional accuracy. Many manufacturers embraced modernity through visible transformation and stylistic experimentation, while Patek Philippe evolved through careful integration of innovation that served enduring mechanical aims. Its development follows a logic defined by proportion, restraint, and the pursuit of lasting technical harmony. The modern-day, expansive manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva From Jean Adrien Philippe’s keyless winding system of the 1840s to the introduction of silicon components in the twenty-first century, progress has remained guided by internal reasoning and accumulated skill. Each movement expresses a study of mechanical relationships refined over time, where advances emerge from clarity of purpose and precision in design. The chapters that follow trace this progression through its historical sequence. Each period reflects a technical response to changing demands: the shift from pocket to wrist, the rise of automati...
Hodinkee
The auction blends reflection with foresight on the next ten years. It will also likely set the record for the largest total sale price in the history of watches.
Monochrome
Dive watches span the spectrum: retro throwbacks that trade on romance, do-it-all desk divers that split time between meetings and marinas, and true instruments built for cold, dark water. This segmentation is very much in place at Oris, and the Aquis Pro 1000m belongs in the last category. Previously available with a manufacture Calibre 400 […]
SJX Watches
This December at its New York auction. Sotheby’s will bring one a hitherto secret collection of complicated Patek Philippe watches to market, The Olmsted Complications Collection. Accrued by late financier Robert M. Olmsted over six decades, the collection includes watches commissioned by the most prominent American collectors of the early 20th century, including Henry Graves Jr., Thomas E. Emery, James M. Morehead III, and Elliot C. Lee, some of which were completely unknown to the public until now. An “Extra” quality observatory watch made for Henry Graves Jr. It couldn’t be better timed either, with the flagship lot being a previously undocumented Patek Philippe perpetual calendar desk clock, just months after the brand launched its modern equivalent. Better still – at least for American bidders – these watches are already stateside, avoiding the hefty import taxes levied against Switzerland. In addition to rare and exotic pocket watches, the auction also makes room for a few watches with more mainstream appeal, including a Rolex ref. 6100 with a cloisonné enamel dragon dial. The Thomas E. Emery Desk Clock The headline lot is a Patek Philippe desk clock made for one Thomas Emery – the same client who commissioned Patek Philippe’s first wrist-borne perpetual calendar in 1925. Until now there were only two publicly known Patek Philippe perpetual calendar desk clocks, those made for James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. Like its siblings, Emery’s desk ...
Monochrome
Founded by master watchmaker Gerd R. Lang (1943-2023) in 1983, Chronoswiss rowed against the tide of quartz to become a key player in the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. Renowned for exceptional craftsmanship and a penchant for regulator displays, Lang’s brand released the Opus chronograph in 1995, the world’s first serially produced skeletonised automatic chronograph, revealing […]
SJX Watches
The cal. 4132 inside the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” is a rare evolution of one of the most revered chronograph movements in modern watchmaking. Based on the long-running cal. 4130 platform, the new movement was developed specifically for the Daytona “Le Mans” unveiled in 2023 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the famed endurance race. While visually similar to the cal. 4131 found in current-production Daytonas, the cal. 4132 incorporates a clever mechanical upgrade that allows it to record up to 24 hours of elapsed time. Given the relatively simple upgrade from a 12-hour to 24-hour counter, the cal. 4132 might seem like a weekend project for a brand with the engineering might of Rolex, but the reality is more nuanced. To achieve this, Rolex engineered a compact differential gear set that doubles the timing capacity without altering the core movement architecture, leaving the movement dimensions unchanged. As with many Rolex innovations, the cal. 4132 reflects the brand’s quiet obsession with functional longevity and serviceability. The latest Daytona movements reveal a degree of decorative finishing unseen in past generations of Rolex movements An already quirky base For over two decades, the Rolex cal. 4130 stood as the benchmark for industrial chronograph movements. Launched in 2000, the cal. 4130 was the first in-house chronograph movement developed by Rolex. The movement was lauded for its compact architecture, low component count, and ease of service – a...
SJX Watches
On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer pushes the boundaries of modern sport-luxury with the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Twin-Time. A bold fusion of technical design, dual-time functionality, and everyday wearability, it’s the Carrera reimagined for a new generation. Lightweight, futuristic, and full of attitude, this is modern TAG Heuer at its best! What We Love The futuristic take on the Carrera has never looked better: the skeletonised dial is visually stunning and full of depth. The GMT functionality adds genuine, real-world practicality to the timepiece. Wrist presence is undeniable. It’s a watch you can’t take your eyes off, offering excellent value for money. What We Don’t The case thickness remains on the larger side; even with the added function, it could be refined further. It would’ve been great to see the winding rotor colour-matched to the dial, perhaps in the same teal green. The hour and minute hands can occasionally get lost within the skeletonised dial during certain lighting conditions. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 TAG Heuer launched the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport in late 2024 as a bold new evolution of the Carrera line, sharing much of the collection’s DNA while having a “futuristic” aesthetic look. The Chronograph Extreme Sport collection brings together the brand’s racing heritage with now a more refined, sharper, and aggressive look, all the while using new cutting-edge materia...
Hodinkee
We're back in Monaco for the start of the fall auction season, and there are so many special watches to see.
Monochrome
Irish pop-rock icons U2 once sang “Two Hearts Beating As One”, a phenomenon that’s no stranger to any of us, but in watchmaking, we call this Resonance! And resonance is mastered by only a handful of watchmakers, one of whom is Armin Strom! The concept of resonance is far from new, and was discovered by […]
Worn & Wound
One of my worst traits-according to my husband, my therapist, and the middle school youth pastor-is that I am greedy. Unfortunately, I have to agree. It’s not that I want everything; it’s just that I want choices. Well, luckily for me, dear Reader, Tissot has delivered. Their latest release, the Tissot Classic Dream, powered by the Powermatic 80 movement, now comes in seven new references. For others, this may feel like overkill, but for me? It’s just right. Each of the new Classic Dream models has all the makings of a daily driver. These dress watches clock in at 40mm, but don’t wear large on the wrist. Part of that is thanks to the watch’s proportions: Tissot has given the simple, no-frills dial plenty of room to “breathe,” leaving only the thinnest sliver of stainless steel as the case. Add in a variety of dial colors and metal options-yellow gold PVD, rose gold PVD, blue sunray, black sunray, you name it-and there’s truly something for every style. And if that’s not enough, each watch comes with the option of a leather strap or a bracelet. It’s a Swiss buffet of options, if you ask me. The real star here is the Powermatic 80 movement, powering the Classic Dream series for the first time. As Tissot notes, this makes Swiss automatic watches even more accessible to a broader audience. The Powermatic 80 promises (you guessed it) up to 80 hours of power reserve and consistent performance for all-day, everyday wear, with an average daily precision...
Monochrome
A relatively young brand founded by two close friends, Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al-Marri, Furlan Marri started its life on Kickstarter in 2021 with a nicely designed collection of meca-quartz chronographs. The goal of the brand was to “bring back emotional watchmaking with thoughtful design (…) with details rarely seen at this price point”. And […]
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin has revealed a new take on its flagship complication, the Freak S Enamel, now offered with a silvery titanium case and with the choice of either red or turquoise translucent flinqué enamel over an engine-turned guilloché dial. While mechanically unchanged, the cleaner case design and high-gloss dial plate transform the overall visual impression and intensify the focus on the central carousel, which serves as both the time display and the heart of the movement. A limited edition of 50 pieces in each colour, the enamel edition is the fourth member of the Freak S family, which was launched in 2022 as a higher-end, dual-balance evolution of the Freak Vision. Initial thoughts Since its debut a quarter century ago, the Freak collection has given Ulysse Nardin (UN) freedom to push the boundaries of movement design. While the usually crownless case and central carousel have become familiar over the years, each iteration still manages to feel like an experiment. The new enamel edition is the most aesthetically restrained Freak S yet; paradoxically, it also feels the most luxurious, trading exotic material combinations for polished titanium and brightly coloured enamel. The result is a watch that feels as radical as ever, but more refined. The 45 mm case, for example, is the simplest Freak S case to date: no carbon flanks, and no PVD coating. The traditional brushed and polished finish helps the large case fade into the background to allow the enamel dial and starshi...
Time+Tide
American brand Monta updates its Triumph model for the first time since 2017, offering aesthetic and technical refinements.The post Monta celebrates its ongoing success with a re-designed Triumph model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Today, we take a look at a new chronograph, the Aera C-1 Chrono. The brand, for those previously unaware, hails from Britain and was founded in 2018. Since the beginning, the small team has focused on designing minimalist, robust timepieces. So far, the company has produced a diver, a series of field watches, and a […] Visit Introducing: The Aera C-1 Chrono to read the full article.
SJX Watches
More Seiko watches have gone to space than any other brand, save for Omega and Casio, and Seiko brings back the most prolific of them all, the multi-function Rotocall. For the 2025 reissue, the brand has gone for authenticity over reinvention, retaining the original 37 mm case size and bezel-operated function selector, while making a concession for a more practical sapphire crystal. Named for its nifty rotating bezel, the vintage Rotocall was most frequently worn on NASA Space Shuttle missions. The remake is available in three colourways, plus two limited editions for the Japanese market, the reissue of this 1980s favourite delivers a heavy dose of nostalgia. Initial thoughts If the Speedmaster Professional is the “Moon Watch”, the Rotocall may as well be called the “Shuttle Watch”. NASA purportedly flight qualified the Rotocall around 1983 and, according to Robert Jackson, who maintains a database of watches used in space, Rotocalls crossed the Karman line nearly 200 times during the Space Shuttle program, which lasted until 2011. Today, vintage Rotocalls are quite desirable, and unlike NASA-issued Speedmasters, which were government property, astronauts paid for and were allowed to keep their Rotocalls. Sotheby’s sold Kathy Sullivan’s watch, which she took to space twice – and once to the seafloor in the Challenger Deep – for over US$20,000 a few years ago. The Rotocall may be the most faithful of Seiko’s recent reissues; it’s the same diameter – 37...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Zenith Chronomaster Sport debuted back in 2021 and has evolved into one of the brand’s most compelling contemporary chronographs (and that’s saying a lot for Zenith). There was a lot of initial chatter about some similarities to the Rolex Daytona because the collection debuted with a panda and reverse panda dial model with ceramic bezel and, while the comparisons are certainly valid, it does warrant a reminder that the Daytona indeed used to be El Primero-powered. Earlier in 2025, Zenith went all out on the blue theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders in celebration of its 160th anniversary. The star of the show may have been the return of the Caliber 135 in the G.F.J. (see more on that one right here), but the supporting releases didn’t hold back either, boasting bright blue ceramic cases and bracelets. Together, this trio of watches comprise the Zenith 160th anniversary collection, touching on each of the cornerstones of the brand’s modern architecture. The watch I am going to focus on here is the Zenith Chronomaster Sport rendered nearly in its entirety in blue ceramic, showcasing a very different side of the brand’s most popular modern chronograph. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Context The Chronomaster collection has been around since 1994, building on the rather illustrious history of precision timing (outlined in more detail right here) that Zenith is known for. In 2021, Zenith found its modern stride with the release of the Chronomaster Sport with a blac...
Worn & Wound
I’m not a big “upgrader.” I’ve never been hugely interested in having the latest thing. My style of collecting (or, arguably, of “accumulating”) has always come more from a deep-seated urge for completionism, rather than a desire always to have the best or newest. When I do take the plunge on something, I try to get exactly what I want, or the best option available, and then, typically, I’m pretty happy with it. It’s why I’m still using the iPhone 12 Pro Max I bought five years ago (it works perfectly), why I was totally comfortable - in buying my first gravel bike this summer - to opt for an older model year of the Cannondale Topstone instead of the shiniest brand new version, and why I’ve felt absolutely no urge to pick up a more recent iteration of my beloved Omega Seamaster. Still, occasionally, a meaningful update comes along that genuinely grabs my attention. Most recently, that happened with the watch I’m reviewing here: the Traska Venturer GMT, now in its sixth generation. There was a time, when watches and writing were a hobby and not a vocation, that I was the “NWA-every-other-week” type, but as my collecting has slowed down, and since I’m lucky enough to satisfy much of my urge for novelty through work, I’m much more restrained in my purchasing habits. The result of this is that I’ve somewhat fallen off the microbrand treadmill, the constant in and out of FedEx boxes from my house now primarily a professional concern, rather t...
Hodinkee
The young duo has created a brand new caliber and expanded their design language, which is likely to grab new customers.
Fratello
Today, we’ll look at tasteful updates by Blancpain to its Villeret collection. Aside from the well-known Fifty Fathoms, these are the watches most people think of when considering the brand. After all, this collection was an integral part of Blancpain’s relaunch in the ’80s. For today, three models have been reinterpreted with golden-hour hues. Let’s […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
The Flyway Fata Morgana is the latest addition to Isotope’s collection of characterful, design-first watches. Inspired by the rare optical phenomenon in which land and sky appear to merge, it represents perhaps more of a poetic concept than a mere wristwatch. This new 36mm model introduces a mirror-polished titanium dial to an already rather exotic […] Visit Introducing: The Isotope Flyway Fata Morgana - A Mirror-Polished Optical Illusion to read the full article.
Time+Tide
With these new "Golden Hour" updates to three key models, Blancpain's underrated Villeret line gets its time in the sun.The post Blancpain updates its Villeret line with subtle, yet well-considered tweaks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A hit when it was launched a dozen years ago – time does fly – the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon was the first-ever Speedmaster in ceramic. Now Omega has refined and reworked the concept – the case is now almost 1 mm thinner – while retaining the all-ceramic construction and distinctive aesthetic. The new Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (DSOTM) makes its debut in four variants. The first two stick closely to the original, right down to the same automatic cal. 9900 movement, but in a slimmer format. More notable is the manual-wind version containing the cal. 9908, the first DSOTM offering with this movement, making it even thinner. And it has no date to boot. Rounding out the quartet is the Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon (GSOTM) that is also manual-wind but powered by the historically-based, Moonwatch-famous cal. 3861. This adopts the lunar-textured surface, front and back, first seen on the Apollo 8 edition. The first manual-wind DSOTM that has a black-and-red livery Initial thoughts Contemporary collectors are spoiled for choice when it comes to the Speedmaster, which is available in seemingly endless configurations. While that’s arguably a criticism, it demonstrates Omega’s industrial prowess, which enables the brand to deliver large volumes of watches that are objectively high quality and equipped with some of the industry’s best chronograph movements, without keeping customers waiting. Regardless of the shade of grey or black, the watches are ins...
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