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Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture Hodinkee
Hermes Jun 9, 2026

Photo Report: Inside Hermès Horloger Manufacture

We've all been told at least once in life to stick to our own lane. It's an old trope that historically holds merit. Stick to one discipline, master it, and you'll succeed. But in 2026, the rulebook has changed in almost every aspect of life, and sometimes those one-trick ponies aren't the ones leading the charge; they're actually left in the stable. La Montre Hermès S.A in Brugg, Switzerland. In watchmaking, it transpires that the latest crop of brands to realize this are the names we most associate with being wider fashion houses. Empires sustained by hand-stitching legacy into cloth, amplified in the theatre of the catwalk, now play in the watchmaking arena. We've witnessed many of these names turn to watchmaking as an additional arm to their already bulletproof name, and crucially, they're delivering watches with real merit. For Hermès, despite having a presence in watchmaking since the early 20th century, with Universal Genève as the brand's watchmaking partner from the 1930s and the production of exclusively Hermès-signed pieces such as desk clocks, this rise has been built brick by brick since the 1970s. Outfitting horses came first, then their riders, and it quickly proved that true luxury comes from mastery, not scale. During the 1970s, the maison decided to build schools to train artisans the Hermès way, passing along hand-stitching, leather cutting, and scarf-printing techniques from master to apprentice. While other names pursued mass production or outsour...

The Swatch Collaboration Effect - Here’s What Happened (This Time) Fratello
Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Jun 9, 2026

The Swatch Collaboration Effect - Here’s What Happened (This Time)

The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop watch resulted in long queues at Swatch boutiques worldwide. We witnessed the chaos and mayhem at several of them on May 16th. Police had to enforce order, stores had to close, mall owners were angry, and managers of nearby shops were pissed because they couldn’t open or had […] Visit The Swatch Collaboration Effect — Here’s What Happened (This Time) to read the full article.

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition Jun 9, 2026

Rolex Oyster 100 Years Exhibition in Shanghai

Making its debut in Shanghai, Oyster Story is an all-encompassing, immersive exhibition to mark the centenary of the Rolex Oyster water-resistant watch case, arguably the foundational achievement of the world’s largest luxury watch brand. Oyster Story takes place at June 10-28 at the West Bund Dome Art Center, a former cement factory in a district that was once an industrial area but is now being transformed into an arts and culture hub. The large, domed-shaped building on the banks of the Huangpu River covers almost 100,000 square feet, allowing for a comprehensive journey into the Oyster and Rolex history. The exhibition includes historical Rolex watches, including the actual timepieces worn by explorers and adventurers on landmark expeditions. The watches on show comprise those owned by Rolex “as well as privately owned watches kindly loaned for the event” according to the brand. Also on show is an in-depth look at modern-day Rolex watchmaking. “Cases, bezels, bracelets, dials, materials, movements: every stage of watchmaking is showcased here”, allowing a look into arguably the most advanced high-end-industrial watch manufacturing in Switzerland. The brand’s advances in timekeeping are also illustrated by the atomic clock developed by Rolex. Amongst other things it serves as a reference clock for Rolex watchmaking. Oyster Story is free to enter and open to the public.  

Timex Expands their Atelier Line with New Chronographs Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Atelier Wen Jun 8, 2026

Timex Expands their Atelier Line with New Chronographs

Lots of ink has been spilled in the short span of time since the launch of the Formex Aria on the topic of small brands (microbrands, if you must) going upmarket and playing at significantly higher price points than consumers are accustomed to. When a brand releases a watch that is multiple times the cost of the watches they are already associated with, it can cause a near panic in the watch enthusiast community. Lots of “HOW COULD THEY?” type comments appear on websites like ours, Instagram, and over beers at local meetups as collectors grapple with the idea that watch brands, which are also businesses that support the lives of real human beings, might attempt to make the most of the increased popularity our hobby has received in these past few years.  And that’s really what it is, right? The mainstreaming of watches has led brands like Formex, Christopher Ward, Atelier Wen, and others to feel confident in their expansion upmarket. Gone are the days when microbrands appeal solely to value conscious consumers – they have the eye of at least some traditional luxury buyers as well, and the ambitious watches they’ve developed and the prices being asked are a reflection of that. Timex, of course, is not a microbrand, but their Atelier line is a significant move into a higher pricing tier, and some of those same dynamics are in play, I think with the release of two new chronographs in the brand’s highest end line of watches.  You might remember the Atelier collect...

Reviewing TAG Heuer’s Limited Edition Carrera Glassbox Tourbillon Australian Edition WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer s Limited Edition Carrera Jun 6, 2026

Reviewing TAG Heuer’s Limited Edition Carrera Glassbox Tourbillon Australian Edition

Does TAG Heuer’s Australian Edition Carrera Glassbox Tourbillon add enough sporty flavour to this traditional complication? Let’s find out! What We Love: Green and gold – our national colours! Gorgeously reframes the historic tourbillon Wears relatively slim and close to the wrist What We Don’t: No hacking seconds may turn off accuracy enthusiasts The inner strap colour is slightly off – a nitpick, but noticeable Is TAG Heuer competing too hard with itself? Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 TAG Heuer has long been a major proponent of the Australian market. Ever since entering in the late 1980s, the brand has ingratiated itself within our laid-back, modest, and often adventurous lifestyles. Models like the Aquaracer and Formula 1 became standard fare for the Australian wrist, while others like the Monaco evolved into legendary, aspirational pieces for those who have “made it”. But there is another collection that has long offered the best of both worlds: the TAG Heuer Carrera. The perfect balance of high-end luxury and everyday robustness, the Carrera’s presence in Australia has been shaped by both local values and its own powerful heritage. Bought for celebrations, commemorations, commiserations, and everything in between, it too has become part of Australiana. With that in mind, TAG Heuer has released a smattering of timepieces that reflect its enduring connection with our great nation. La...

eBay Finds: A Waltham in Great Condition, a Few Affordable Seikos, and the Most 80s Watch You’ve Ever Seen Worn & Wound
Seiko s Jun 5, 2026

eBay Finds: A Waltham in Great Condition, a Few Affordable Seikos, and the Most 80s Watch You’ve Ever Seen

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Manually Wound Seiko Going to start off this week with a simple yet brilliant vintage Seiko. I’ve had a couple of these over the years, and it’s a great looking and reliable model. The steel case is around 36mm if I recall correctly, and this one is in excellent, unpolished shape. Classic round case with nice strong lugs. The dial is a bold blue, with a white bullseye ring and applied steel markers. Steel dauphine hands and no date give this a sharp, unique look that isn’t too flashy. The watch comes on the correct original Seiko beads of rice bracelet, which is so comfortable and great looking to boot. This example dates to April 1974. No movement pictures but the seller states it runs well, and my experience with these is that the movements are quite robust, like most Seikos. View auction here Vintage Waltham  Next up is a nice vintage Waltham sporty/dress watch. The 34mm steel case looks sharp and unpolished, with stylish thin lugs. The classic silver dial is super clean, with nice applied steel thin arrow markers. It has steel dauphine hands with lume lines in them, and the second hand has a nice red arrow tip to help it stand out. No pesky date window to mar the peac...

Industry News - Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Jun 5, 2026

Industry News - Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement

As the EPHJ Geneva trade fair, the major annual gathering dedicated to precision industries, including watchmaking, medtech and high-tech manufacturing, approaches (from 16 – 19 June), several suppliers exhibiting at the show have started unveiling their latest developments. Among them is Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a movement maker well known to regular readers of MONOCHROME Watches, […]

TAG Heuer’s Monaco Gets a La Fabrique du Temps Tune-Up SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LFT Instead Jun 5, 2026

TAG Heuer’s Monaco Gets a La Fabrique du Temps Tune-Up

The recent management changes at TAG Heuer and the wider LVMH Watch Division have given birth to a surprising collaboration: the Monaco Speed 12, an avant-garde take on TAG Heuer’s iconic square wristwatch that’s powered by the Spin Time movement made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Instead of cubes, hours are indicated by a dozen rotating pistons – the concept is a homage to the V12 engine – that seemingly float in a concentric ring around the dial. Inside the titanium case is a self-winding movement that retains the signature recessed frosting of LFT. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has been having a good run with technically interesting watches – the Monaco Evergraph is a recent example – and the Speed 12 continues the momentum. Admittedly, the Spin Time movement is not in-house, but it is surprisingly coherent despite the drastically different characters of TAG Heuer and Louis Vuitton. The Spin Time complication translates well into TAG Heuer’s automotive-inspired style, both in terms of concept and execution. Also in its favour is the restyled Monaco case that TAG Heuer has employed in other recent launches. Thought still a little chunky, it is sleeker and more ergonomic than earlier iterations of the design. The price tag of US$87,000 is similar to that of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time Air, which unfortunately makes this just a little expensive. Given the case material and TAG Heuer’s traditional price focus, a price that’s 15-20% lower would ...

TAG Heuer Goes Full Throttle With The Monaco Speed 12 Fratello
Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco Jun 5, 2026

TAG Heuer Goes Full Throttle With The Monaco Speed 12

TAG Heuer is staying true to its motorsport heritage while pushing its horological boundaries with the introduction of the Monaco Speed 12 at the Formula 1 Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco 2026. This limited edition of 50 pieces brings racetrack adrenaline to the wrist. It features 12 rotating pistons that indicate the hours, driven […] Visit TAG Heuer Goes Full Throttle With The Monaco Speed 12 to read the full article.

Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 Fratello
Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026

At London Watch Week 2026, Pragma announced two developments that mark the next phase of the young independent brand’s journey. First, the company announced it’s partnering with retailer Ace Jewelers for the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Second, it unveiled the first of the Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026. The exclusive P1 Perseverance […] Visit Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 to read the full article.

Ming and J.N. Shapiro Launch the 37.06 Lightning Worn & Wound
Massena Lab two brands added after Jun 5, 2026

Ming and J.N. Shapiro Launch the 37.06 Lightning

When the Alternative Horological Alliance was formed in 2024, I think many of us who care about this sort of thing immediately began speculating about possible collaborations between the brands involved. The teams at Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro (as well as Fears and Massena LAB, two brands added after the founding of the alliance) have clear affinity for one another. And while there might not be obvious ties between the watches they make, clearly there is a perspective on the watch landscape itself that’s shared among the group, and sometimes that’s what makes for the best partnerships.  Today, Ming and J.N. Shapiro have announced the launch of the 37.06 Lightning, which amounts to the first watch released collaboratively by members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (although Ming and J.N. Shapiro did work together on the AHA tantalum bracelet and the tantalum cases for the Ming Project 21). The star of the show is a dial that combines elements of what both brands excel at, and is notable as each individual dial has a bit of handcraft applied by the founders of both brands.  You would expect, I think, a J.N. Shapiro branded watch to feature hand guilloche of some type as that is really the brand’s calling card at this point, and the 37.06 Lightning is no exception. It distinguishes itself, though, in the guilloche pattern used, which is referred to by the brands as “lightning guilloche” and is being used for the first time by Shapiro on this watch. Sh...

Introducing: The Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning Fratello
Ming × J.N Shapiro 37.06 Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: The Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning

Today, we’ll take a brief look at a new collaboration watch from Ming and J.N. Shapiro. You may recall that both brands are founding members of the Alternative Horological Alliance, a group founded in 2024 that aims to support its members through innovation and partnership. Thus far, the AHA has given us bracelets and cases, […] Visit Introducing: The Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning to read the full article.

Going Tri-Tone With The Blue-Dial Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph Fratello
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jun 4, 2026

Going Tri-Tone With The Blue-Dial Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph

It’s been almost a year since Rado invited me to go to the EFG Swiss Open Gstaad tennis tournament in Switzerland. It was a memorable experience, and as a lifelong tennis player and fan of the sport, I always find it brilliant to see the professionals at work. Another thing that stood out during the […] Visit Going Tri-Tone With The Blue-Dial Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph to read the full article.

Dispatch: A Visit to Philippe Dufour's Workshop, Twelve Years Since Our Last Hodinkee
Jun 3, 2026

Dispatch: A Visit to Philippe Dufour's Workshop, Twelve Years Since Our Last

It's been some time since we visited Philippe Dufour's workshop—at least officially. I'm not sure if my colleagues have stopped in before, which wouldn't surprise me. Once you know Dufour, stopping by his workshop in Le Solliat becomes much more informal. But until two weeks ago, I actually hadn't stepped foot inside the old building that was once his kids' schoolhouse and that has become his workshop.  Back in 2013, Ben stopped by during the "Road to Basel" series, but a lot has changed since then. Or has it? Despite being a watchmaker for over 59 years now, all Philippe Dufour seems to want to do is make watches. And where better to do it than the famed "Valley of Complications"?  When we last left him, Ben noted that he had just delivered the last of his Simplicities, after about 200 watches. "He will never make another," said Ben, and that Dufour was working on a more complicated follow-up. Well, since then, he certainly has delivered more Simplicities, including one with an aventurine dial that was auctioned for charity, and there are still more watches on the bench. And it's not just him at the workshop; his daughter Danièla is also working away as well. Tools on the display cases inside Philippe Dufour's workshop and a selection of pocket watches  In 2022, I traveled to Switzerland and the Vallée de Joux for the first time to research and photograph a story on the watchmaker Charles-Henri Meylan. I immediately fell in love with the place. The three-dimensiona...

Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph Fratello
Casio Jun 3, 2026

Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph

Around 1990, one of my friends was lucky enough to receive an Ebel Sport Classic watch for his birthday. At the time, I was more focused on Swatch and Casio, and I knew nothing about Ebel other than that its watches looked cool. It wasn’t until a few years later, when my interest in mechanical […] Visit Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph to read the full article.

First Look - Rado Drops a Trio of Summer-Toned DiaStar Original Skeleton Monochrome
Rado Drops Jun 3, 2026

First Look - Rado Drops a Trio of Summer-Toned DiaStar Original Skeleton

Rado continues to ride the renewed popularity of its DiaStar Original collection and its skeleton version, and launches three colourful limited editions that add a fresh seasonal character to one of the brand’s most recognisable designs. Following the skeletonised DiaStar models introduced in recent years, including the original steel version and the striking gold-coloured edition […]

The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme Fratello
Rolex Datejust Jun 3, 2026

The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme

One of the Rolex novelties at Watches and Wonders 2026 was the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 with a green ombré lacquer dial (ref. 126334). Essentially, it is a new dial variant for the largest Datejusts in The Crown’s collection. However, it’s not just a new color but also part of a series of watches marking […] Visit The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Catching Up, Accutrons, And Family Additions Fratello
Accutron s Jun 2, 2026

Fratello On Air: Catching Up, Accutrons, And Family Additions

Welcome to a long-awaited episode of Fratello On Air! Well, at least we’re excited to be back. It’s been a while, meaning we’ll cover some recent news from the watch industry, sneaker landscape, television, and even our personal lives. We look forward to catching up with you! This podcast player is blocked because you did […] Visit Fratello On Air: Catching Up, Accutrons, And Family Additions to read the full article.

Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G Jun 2, 2026

Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G

The standout piece from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was certainly the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The astronomy-oriented watch was a decade in the making and compared to its more conservative predecessor, the ref. 6102, the new model benefits from a complete makeover, both aesthetically and mechanically.  Hidden within the 47 mm white gold case is an unusual component that didn’t get the attention it deserved at launch: a butterfly-shaped compliant cam-and-rack mechanism. The system is used for the sunrise/sunset indicators and proves Patek Philippe’s almost savant-like mastery of compliant micro-mechanics.  The Celestial ref. 6105 is pictured showing a sunrise of around 8 AM, and a sunset time of about 7 PM. Note the date ring pulls double duty as the sunrise/sunset scale. Fixing something that may be broken Although still quite rare compared to other complications, there are more sunrise/sunset watches on the market than seemingly ever before. They mostly follow the same basic construction: a cam that works with a follower. As the year progresses, the cam slowly turns, displacing the follower. In pairs, such systems are used to show both the sunrise and sunset times, which synchronously vary throughout the year.  So why fix something that doesn’t appear to be broken? Or more specifically, why use an elaborate compliant system when a basic cam and follower is a fixture in classical watchmaking? European patent EP3740821B1 granted to ...

As Long as There is Light: A First-Hand Deep Dive on Citizen’s Eco-Drive Technology Worn & Wound
Citizen s Eco-Drive Technology Jun 1, 2026

As Long as There is Light: A First-Hand Deep Dive on Citizen’s Eco-Drive Technology

In the horological sphere, we associate the 1970s with the quartz crisis, but there was a more significant threat facing the world at large: an energy crisis. Oil consumption was reaching an all-time high with widespread international travel and car ownership becoming more prevalent and mainstream. Simultaneously, domestic oil production was dwindling in many countries, increasing pressure on imports. The situation reached a crisis when OPEC (the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries) imposed an oil embargo in 1973. So, getting back to watches – you’re probably wondering, what’s the connection? Like the United States, Japan was one of the countries impacted by this energy crisis. In response, Citizen Watch Company established an internal initiative to work toward developing a more sustainable and eco-friendly power source for its timepieces. In short order, the brand looked toward solar cell technology and had developed its own light-powered prototype by 1974. Two years later in 1976, we saw the world’s first light-powered analog watch, the Crystron Solar Cell. This technology would later come to be called Eco-Drive and celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2026. You’ve probably already read about the flagship anniversary Eco-Drive model covered by our own Zach Kazan at its launch earlier this year, but this spring, in peak cherry blossom season, Citizen opened the doors of its manufacture for the first time in years to pull back the curtain on just how the ...

Introducing: The Aria Manufacture Chronometer From Formex Hodinkee
Formex What We Know Jun 1, 2026

Introducing: The Aria Manufacture Chronometer From Formex

What We Know The last time I covered something from Formex was over a year ago, when the brand released a highly finished, full-ceramic sports watch, complete with a ceramic bracelet and even a ceramic micro-adjust clasp, at an unrivaled price point. Today, the brand continues its upmarket trend with a brand-new watch design called the Aria. The Aria takes the form of a broad, integrated-bracelet design in full grade 5 titanium. The 40mm case feels broader than normal, thanks to an impressively thin case height of 6.9mm, even though the lug-to-lug is still quite reasonable at 45.45mm. While the silhouette gives a smooth look, there's quite a bit of contrasting finishing going on here, with brushing of the titanium case and bracelet links done entirely by hand. Though the styling certainly leans towards its identity as a bold sports watch, there's a lot of subtlety in the design, for example, with the individual bracelet links being slightly curved or the extra dimensionality of the layer of titanium peeking out from each link's milled-out spaces. The clasp includes Formex's proprietary micro-adjust system, which provides extra space on both sides of the bracelet by pulling or pushing each side. There are three dials for the Aria: "Selva Green," "Ardesia Grey," and "Denso Blue." All three have a certain muted look to the hue, matching the slightly darker nature of titanium. Dimensionality is achieved through contrasting indices in rose-gold coloring, set on applied raised p...

Kollokium Introduces the Projekt 02 Variant C Worn & Wound
Jun 1, 2026

Kollokium Introduces the Projekt 02 Variant C

In the span of just a few short years, Kollokium has gone from a nearly secret insider side project with a hard to discern future to a fully fledged brand. When the Projekt 01 first came on the scene, it was a bit of a mystery to most what the founders (Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) had planned, or even if they had planned anything at all. There was a one-off quality to that initial drop that seemed to communicate it could all be abandoned at any moment.  Honestly, the watch industry probably needs a little more of that energy – watches that exist outside of a business plan and represent an artistic vision more than a marketing ploy. But credit to Kollokium for being smart about the way they’ve managed expectations and continue to move the ball forward across several subsequent releases since the Projekt 01. In addition to new colorways for that original design, they’ve introduced an entirely watch (not so creatively called the Projekt 02) that builds on the design language introduced in the first piece and deepens the complexity pretty significantly. They’ve just announced the latest Projekt 02, Variant C, and it’s the latest chance for collectors to get in on one of the most interesting new designs in indie watchmaking.  As a refresher, the Projekt 02 is defined by a dial built on a series of stacked plates (over 60 of them) in different shapes and sizes that when fully assembled resemble a three dimensional topographical map. The terrain of t...

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 - A New Artelier Paying Tribute To Oris’s Home Fratello
Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 — Jun 1, 2026

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 - A New Artelier Paying Tribute To Oris’s Home

On June 1st of every year since 2020, Oris has introduced a homage to Hölstein, the Swiss village that the brand calls home. According to Oris CEO Rolf Studer, it’s also a “thank you” from Oris to the Oris community. For this year’s edition, Oris used its new Artelier model, introduced at Watches and Wonders […] Visit The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 — A New Artelier Paying Tribute To Oris’s Home to read the full article.

Bringing Classic Art To The Wrist With The IFLW × Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca Fratello
Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca We have Jun 1, 2026

Bringing Classic Art To The Wrist With The IFLW × Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca

We have come to know IFL Watches for its modern hand-painted dials, often inspired by colorful street art. But what if you let the artists at IFLW have a crack at something a bit more classical? We know that Venezianico is a proud Italian brand that celebrates its Venetian roots with every release. If you […] Visit Bringing Classic Art To The Wrist With The IFLW × Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca to read the full article.

Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie expands Jun 1, 2026

Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph

H. Moser & Cie. expands its selection of chronographs with the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, adding convenient complications to the impressive chronograph calibre found in the Streamliner collection. Despite the presence of a chronograph and a second time zone display, the Endeavour Flyback could easily pass for a time-only watch at a glance thanks to its central minutes counter and discreet dual-time disc. Initial thoughts The central-minutes chronograph is an inherently appealing format. Not only does it reduce dial clutter by eliminating a sub-dial, but it improves legibility by allowing the elapsed minutes to be read on the same 60-minute scale the eye is accustomed to from reading the time. I’m also a fan of the AgenGraphe platform that underpins the HMC 730 movement. The movement architecture — which has now been around for almost a decade — reveals fresh thinking about how a horizontal clutch can work, and the visual layout is appropriately dynamic for a high-end watch with plenty of visible springs and levers, many of which are pleasingly thin in form. All that is to say the Endeavour Flyback has a lot going for it even before considering Moser’s minimalist aesthetic choices. As we’ve come to expect from the brand, the dial is sterile — lacking a brand logo or wordmark — and there’s a gradient fumé finish on the central disc that indicates the second time zone. These details are enough to mark the watch as a Moser product, which sp...

What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch? Fratello
May 31, 2026

What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch?

Spend enough time around watch enthusiasts, and you’ll notice an interesting pattern. While discussions often revolve around the usual heavy hitters, at some point, seasoned collectors begin searching for something different. People can become tired of wearing the same pieces as everyone else. Yet, they crave an elegant everyday watch and perhaps something that prioritizes […] Visit What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch? to read the full article.

H. Moser Introduces the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, with a Brand New Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 29, 2026

H. Moser Introduces the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, with a Brand New Manually Wound Movement

Moser’s new Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date occupies a strange niche which the brand has now explored twice in the span of just a few months: a watch with a movement that has been converted from an automatic version to manually wound for additional functionality and convenience. I’d be surprised if this was an operating principle for Moser for either this release or the Streamliner Pump which debuted at Watches & Wonders, and runs on the HMC 103, which is a manually wound version of their workhorse HMC 500. But it does speak to the brand’s ingenuity when it comes to movement making, and is a reminder that while Moser’s aesthetics and distinct design language often get the most ink, there’s real watchmaking happening as well.  Moser’s Endeavour platform gets the debut of an entirely new movement from Moser, the HMC 730. Based on the architecture of the HMC 902, their automatic chronograph movement made with AGENHOR, the new caliber dispenses with an automatic winding system in favor of dual time and date complications. It does all of this without traditional subdials, a real benefit of the proprietary AGENHOR architecture, which promises a more intuitive readout of elapsed time on a chronograph. On this watch, a red central hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium plated hand tracks elapsed minutes, and the second time zone is found within an interior gray fume dial.  The movement has a number of function first technical advances. The date, for ...