2,377 articles · 15 videos found · page 77 of 80
Revolution
As we move further into the Renaissance of mechanical watchmaking we see certain watch brands taking very strong positions within the watch world. A good example of this is Linde Werdelin, but on a different level the same also goes for Dubey & Schaldenbrand. Unlike Linde Werdelin, Dubey & Schaldenbrand has a much longer history, […]
Revolution
Even when on a personal level you perhaps don’t like their style, you must love a brand like Ulysse Nardin. The brand continues to innovate and is one of the brands that continue to fuel the Renaissance of contemporary mechanical watchmaking. They do this by keeping their current collection fresh with watches like the Hourstriker […]
Revolution
The Altiplano 900P claims the crown for the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, and CEO of Piaget explains the process of his creation as well as the other dazzling novelties for SIHH 2014. Interviewed by Wei Koh. Read Revolution International Digital Editon on iPad, Android or desktop with the Zinio newsstand app. Also, please […]
Deployant
The HYT watches have been making waves…yes, pun intended…with their hydro mechanical watches since they were first revealed to the horological world. I covered the first in the series, the HYT1 in these pages before. See here, and here. It was a pleasant afternoon with Vincent Perriard, CEO of HYT. These are quite rare timepieces,Read More
Revolution
For most watch brands it is still a struggle to create high end watches for contemporary ladies. Smaller watches, often set with obligatory diamonds for a so called extra feminine touch, and of course a “handy, because you never have to wind it”-quartz-movement make up the majority of what many brands offer ladies these days. […]
Revolution
One of the most dramatic technological innovations in recent memory is the OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 8508. It is resistant to magnetic fields greater than 1.5 tesla (15,000 gauss), far exceeding the levels of magnetic resistance achieved by any previous watch movement and solving a problem that has challenged watchmakers for many decades. The mechanical movement […]
Revolution
One of the watches that proofed that we are truly living in the Renaissance of the mechanical watch was Experiment ZR012 from C3H5N3O9. This joint-venture of Urwerk and MB&F; took high end watchmaking even a step further than we are accustomed of these already revolutionary brands. Main focal point in this piece de resistance is […]
Deployant
The Opus series from Harry Winston was a project started when Max Busser was CEO at Harry Winston. One of the remarkable watches he commissioned during his tenure there was the Opus 3…a very special digital, mechanical watch to be made by Vianney Halter. Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter A watch which wasRead More
Revolution
First post in the new year and let’s not start as usually, with an article about watches. Believe me there will be loads of ‘watch’ news in two weeks from now and there after. Last year we did a large article about Cartier Alarm clocks, the small ones from the eighties with mechanical movements and […]
Deployant
The Lange Arkade is an underated watch. The movement is beautiful…magnificent even. The case unique, the outsized date was an outrage when it was first introduced in 1994. In many sense, this is an outstanding watch…with one small print…it is a ladies timepiece. The ladies watch market, sadly, is dominated with quartz watches, which featureRead More
Revolution
The minute repeater is both the most sophisticated of complications and the most atavistic - sophisticated, in that it requires enormous care and skill to make one that works at all, much less one that works well and sounds good; atavistic, in that it brings us back to the very earliest attempts to make mechanical […]
Deployant
A quick place marker for next week’s post. Possibly the most beautifully made mechanical ladies watch in production…the Lange Arkade. This specimen is in yellow gold case, champagne dial. Personal timepiece of my wife’s. Photographed simply in a restaurant, while we were having lunch, perched on a plate. One of the original watches introduced byRead More
Revolution
The beginning of a journey takes but one step. In an age of square and round watches, the industry gripped in the throes of the quartz crisis was trying to outcompete itself on a battlefield of watch straps and materials. Standing above the fray and towards even more risk was a company near the brink, […]
Revolution
Hidden in plain sight” might be more appropriate. It’s news to no one who loves fine watchmaking that, thanks to many factors, the prices of mechanical watches have been steadily climbing over the last few years, with - apparently - no end in sight. That’s made things a little tougher for die-hard horological enthusiasts who […]
Revolution
With all that he’s achieved on the movement front: the world’s lightest mechanical watch movements (tourbillons, no less, created with I-beam aluminum-lithium bridges), the first carbon-nanofiber and titanium baseplates, the first movement designed after the steel trellis frame of a Ducati motorcycle, the first movement with an orthorhombic-titanium-aluminide baseplate, inspired by the honeycomb inner structure […]
Revolution
The rotonde de cartier annual calendar is a robust and practical addition to the brand’s collection Thirty days hath September, April, June and November,” goeth the doggerel verse, reminding us of the irregularity of the Gregorian calendar - a verse which also serves to remind owners of mechanical watches with simple calendars that for five […]
Deployant
Imagine if you will…a designer…talented, no doubt. But who has worked designing cars, and electric guitars. Imagine that this same designer took his thoughts on a watch, discarding all the normal ideas on watch design…like having hands, like the way you show time. Imagine if he was unlimited by traditional watchmaking…and the movement is mechanical,Read More
Hodinkee
Ebel, once one of the most successful and top-selling Swiss watch brands, which has fallen into relative obscurity under the ownership of Movado Group, is being sold to a consortium of high-profile buyers, including François-Paul Journe and Chanel, who plan to revive the Ebel marque with hopes of returning it to its former glory. Vintage Ebel chronographs. Photo courtesy of Phillips; credit: James Kong. Movado Group, Inc. says it entered into a binding agreement to sell a 95% interest in the Ebel brand for $66.5 million to a strategic buyer group led by Geneva-based Montres Journe SA, with the participation of French luxury house Chanel and Pierre Jacques, a long-time industry executive. Jacques, who previously headed De Bethune for more than a decade, will take over as CEO of Ebel while Movado, with shares publicly listed on the New York Stock Exchange, which purchased the brand from LVMH in 2004, will retain a 5% stake in the business when the deal is completed, the parties said in a statement. The agreement underscores the growing business interest in reviving faded luxury Swiss watch brands once revered by watch consumers. Breitling paid more than CHF 60 million to acquire the Universal Genève brand and archives and relaunched it as a high-end luxury marque earlier this year. Ebel was once a major player in the industry, thriving during the quartz crisis era of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s under Pierre-Alain Blum, a third-generation leader of the family-owned busi...
SJX Watches
The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...
SJX Watches
Conventional wisdom holds that stopping a tourbillon for precise time setting — “hacking” in watchmaking parlance — is a difficult endeavor given the constant rotation of the cage. The hacking tourbillon wristwatch didn’t arrive until 2008, courtesy of the A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret. In fact, hacking of any sort remained a rarity until the last few decades — ironic, since the primary function of the seconds hand has arguably evolved from a way to assess accuracy into an indicator that a watch is running. Some brands are still in the process of adding stop-seconds features to their basic calibres, and hacking remains scarcer still in wristwatch tourbillons, appearing with regularity only in the last two decades. But building for the waistcoat pocket, historical watchmakers have been stopping tourbillons for almost as long as they’ve been building them, and developed a number of solutions for this problem along the way, each stopping the tourbillon, or merely the seconds, in a different way. Breguet – stopping the seconds without stopping the watch Almost 225 years ago to the year, the French Ministry of the Interior granted Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon, a clever way to improve a watch’s marks during accuracy testing. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions, the “balance complete” — comprised of the balance, staff, roller, collet and balance spring — mu...
Monochrome
The Clifton collection was introduced in 2012 and has since become the more classically styled part of Baume & Mercier‘s catalogue, drawing on the design of 1950s watches. In 2018, with the arrival of the Baumatic movement, the series was improved mechanically. Following a substantial redesign in 2025, which introduced more compact proportions, elongated trapezoidal […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The new Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is a mechanically complex watch in a dressy package and an accessible price point.
SJX Watches
Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time. History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time. Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...
SJX Watches
Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...
Monochrome
The Manhattan has become one of Maen’s defining collections, offering the angular aesthetics of 1970s integrated sports watches and increasingly refined execution at accessible prices. Building on the success of last year’s Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin, the Swedish brand is introducing natural stone dials to its permanent collection. Mechanically identical to the existing hand-wound model, the […]
Hodinkee
You hanging in there, Baller? It feels like it's been a hard bit, or at least it is with the folks I check in with. I hope that, despite whatever's frustrating you and causing grief—from stubbed toes to wildfires and their attendant smoke to your team not making enough moves at the trade deadline—you're getting by. And congrats, obviously, to all the Sixers fans. Strays Photo courtesy of Huntington Company. Perhaps, like me, you were unaware that in 1967 Bulova made an Accutron Astronaut in 18k gold, and if that sounds like fun, Goodwill's got one that's on an 18k JP Champion bracelet to boot. The good folks at Huntington Company have a bit of a left of the dial watch this week, this Sarcar triple date with moonphase, and a fun game to play is to imagine what it'd be priced at with a different name on the dial. If you're bored by watches that are too quiet, or you're interested in truly unhinged complications, here's a Boegli which features a music box that plays a bit of Mozart's "The Magic Flute." For those who missed their shot on the Louis Erard x Kudoke Regulator from a few years ago, here's a very very nice blue one, and if you'd prefer a different blue watch, this Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust is almost certainly not from 2005, as the listing says (it's got a tritium dial, for one, plus the reference 17000 ceased production in 2001), but it certainly looks in great shape. Finally, here's a phenomenally pretty gold Audemars Piguet Day Date Moonphase (almost certain...
SJX Watches
All timekeeping is astronomical in origin. Perhaps for this reason, clocks and watches capable of reproducing the movements of the heavens in miniature have long ranked among the highest expressions of horology. Astronomical complications mechanically encode vast celestial cycles into concise visual displays. Such mechanisms featured prominently in the collections of European monarchs and nobles, and later those of the industrialists and financiers who succeeded them as horology’s most ambitious patrons. The Vacheron Constantin Copernicus Celestial Spheres depicts the elliptical orbit of the Earth around the Sun, resulting in a calendar of sorts read against the signs of the zodiac. Yet many astronomical complications are based on principles that have been understood for thousands of years, and are often simpler — mechanically speaking — than more commonplace complications like chronographs. The tension between their relatively straightforward operation and their profound historical meaning makes them difficult to place within the traditional hierarchy of complications. This calls into question whether such a hierarchy even exists. Time comes from above Long before the development of mechanical clocks, humans attempted to relate the passage of time to observations of the heavens. The rising and setting of the Sun, the changing phase of the Moon, and the return of the seasons helped determine when to plant, harvest, travel and perform religious ceremonies. A fragment ...
Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier marks its thirty years of independent watchmaking with a platinum trilogy of mechanically sophisticated models that offer on-demand complications. Reflecting the collection’s spirit of understated elegance, the complications appear almost magically when required and then disappear to restore the dial’s visual purity. Crafted from head to toe in luxurious 950 platinum, the trilogy […]
SJX Watches
Late last year, Rolex unveiled its accessories line, comprised of a range of cufflinks and the Submariner Date Desk Clock ref. 909010LN. In the typical Rolex fashion, the new accessories are conservatively styled; the desk clock is essentially a Submariner face enlarged to 80 mm. But in typical Rolex fashion, the clock is impressively made. The Submariner desk clock is an impressive piece of desk-bound timekeeping. Execution is top class with flawless fit and finish, while the mechanics (or more accurately, electronics) are advanced: the quartz movement incorporates a 400-year perpetual calendar, and surprisingly, decorative finishing. Initial thoughts The Submariner desk clock is an impressive object, sizeable, heavy, and clearly well made. It has to be seen – and held – in person to understand the quality of make. Elements like the brushed steel case (that’s ironically not water resistant), engraved bezel insert, and decorated movement speak to the precision manufacturing and finishing. This clock is a beautifully-made industrial creation. That said, the design is a boring. It’s basically a Submariner face blown up to 80 mm. Fans of the design will be pleased as Rolex did replicate the details of the wristwatch artfully, right down to the engraved flange around the dial and tiny crown within “Swiss made”. Fortunately, the insides of the clock are more advanced than the design. The cal. 8335 displays the time and date, but the date is actually a secular calend...
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his irreverent, approachable-priced, design-driven brand to a significant size, producing about 14,000 watches last year. Richard Benc (Photo Courtesy Studio Underd0g). And he's done it all, not from Switzerland or Hong Kong, but from the U.K. Benc has grown his business with intent, making strategic investments in his supply chain, including buying full control of the assembly and after-sales service company that builds Studio Underd0g's distinct timepieces. Studio Underd0g is now the biggest assembler of mechanical watches in the U.K. and isn't only selling watches with drops and collabs, but is building up stock to make more watches available on its website. Next up for Benc and his brand is a new physical, public, and retail location. The 'D0ghouse' will open in Maidenhead this month and serve as a public showcase for the upstart brand and its operations. It's another big step for the company that comes with its own set of fresh opportunities and challenges. And Benc gives us a tease on what may be coming next - there will be a new 04Series of watches that will take the brand to a place it hasn't been (mechanically) before. But first, some watch industry business news headlines, including secondary market price rises, executive moves at the big auction houses, an...
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