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Quill & Pad
The GPHG's Men’s Complication category awards “men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. They may feature classic and/or innovative complications and indications like world time, dual time, or other types of models.” And our panel is split. Again.
Deployant
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Chronograph in white gold with purple dial.
SJX Watches
The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...
Time+Tide
The very utterance of the words “must have” when talking about the ideal watch collection will almost always lead to, at the very least, enthusiastic speculation and, more often than not, heated debate. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is forever being bandied about as THE watch to have in any discerning collection, and the Rolex … ContinuedThe post 4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Recently Joshua Muchow has become somewhat informed about gemstones and related techniques in studying for the jewelry-heavy Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève categories we discuss annually. This new information has sparked a significant amount of passion for the topic, leaving him wanting to share some of what he's learned about one of the most beautiful sides of haute horology: gems and their settings.
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: With weather more conducive to anything other than complete hibernation finally starting to creep back into our lives Down Under, it’s got everyone here in the office talking about what watch you should be wearing when the board shorts, bikinis and budgie smugglers come out. Now, we’ve already covered what we think will … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The F1 weekend in Singapore and we look at race inspired watches. Our list ranges from Rolex to Hublot, TAG Heure, Bell & Ross, Casio and Richard Mille.
Time+Tide
It seems like every other week there’s a new Casio being unleashed upon the wristwatch-wearing world. And this week is no different, as the Japanese marque has just released this - the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB. That’s right, there’s now another 5000-series vying for the attention of all you digital devotees out there, and this one’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Horological heavyweight Richard Mille has just unveiled their latest limited edition masterpiece, the Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen, and there’s only one thing we can say … Bwoah! In typical fashion only to be expected of Richard Mille, the RM 50-04 is an incredibly complicated and quite frankly wonderful timepiece, designed for the one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As complications go, the RM 50 is the ultimate Richard Mille, combining a tourbillon and split-seconds chronograph. Descended from the RM008 of 2003, one of the brand’s foundational models, the top of the line complication now has now been dressed up in new livery for Finnish Formula 1 driver Kimi Räikkönen, who drives for the Alfa Romeo Racing Team. Launched at the start of the 2019 Singapore Grand Prix, the RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen is large, lightweight, and complex, and dressed in a red, white and black colour combination that’s the same as the livery on the Alfa Romeo C38 Formula 1 car. Kimi Räikkönen Though it’s a mass of details and colours, the dial is actually easily to decipher. The two chronograph sub-dials are the six and nine o’clock. The fan-shaped indicator at 11 o’clock is the power reserve, and its mirror image to the right is the torque indicator. This indicates the level of wind in the mainspring, with the ideal being between 53Nmm and 65Nmm; “Nmm” is short for Newton millimetre. And at three o’clock is the power reserve display. Made of various lightweight carbon composites, the watch case is generously sized, like other top of the line Richard Mille complications – 44.5mm in diameter and 16.1mm high. The front and back plates are white Quartz TPT, while the middle is Carbon TPT. Both composites are made by North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT), a Swiss lightweight composite specialist that’s...
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Revolution
The Watch – A Twentieth Century Style History serves both the newbie and the seasoned enthusiast; a book you’ll keep at hand for constant referral.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG foundation describes the Men’s category for watches entered into the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève as containing indications for only hours, minutes, seconds, simple date, power reserve, and classic moon phase. Here our panelists select their favorites from the six shortlisted watches, and the reactions are quite mixed.
Time+Tide
It’s the least surprising twist in a conversation when a watch collector tells you they’re into G-Shock. When I started writing about watches, I remember a fellow Australian journalist – Bani McSpedden – flicking through pictures on his phone of all his G-Shocks arranged in a rainbow stack. I found it curious then, but not … ContinuedThe post Andrew talks about how Time+Tide started, and explains why he copped the Casio G-Shock Full Metal Black Aged IP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Ming 17.06 Copper is a fascinating study in light, form, and color.
Time+Tide
In the world of serious vintage watch collecting the presence of a retailer’s name on the dial can make a big difference in terms of price. Turler, Tiffany & Co, Serpico Y Laino, prestigious retailers with great provenance - just the sort of thing that makes an otherwise generic steel sports watch stand out of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The return of the retailer exclusive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
In an unending stream of vintage-inspired wristwatches that are just a little bit off (you know what I mean), you cling to a watch that gets it right like a life raft. The Haven Watch Co. Chilton is exactly that life-saving device, with it tastefully sized at 37mm, and offering a visually compelling dial. Taking … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Haven Watch Co. Chilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ophion is a Spanish brand offering Swiss-made watches with a particular speciality: traditionally-styled movement and dial decoration done by machine, resulting in a modest price. The new OPH 786 Vélos sticks to the same formula, but takes it to a new level by increasing the degree of machine-executed decoration on the dial to create an appealing style while retaining the accessible pricing. And the resulting look is also reminiscent of the work of far more expensive independent watchmakers like Thomas Prescher and Voutilainen. Two dials are offered: the simpler, and less expensive, one being a metallic finish and concentric brushing matched with nickel-plated hands. And the fancier option is an elaborate basket-weave guilloche engraved by a CNC milling machine, combined with either nickel-plated or heat-blued hands. Both dial finished have the same construction featuring an applied minute track and inner ring, and also large applied Breguet numerals. The inner ring has a wide inner bevel that is once again cut by machine. The 39mm watch case features bulbous, teardrop lugs that are each produced individually, and then welded to the case – an unusually elaborate construction at this price point. And it’s worth pointing out the case is made by Voutilainen & Cattin, the case maker owned by Voutilainen. Inside is the same calibre found in earlier Ophion models. Made by Soprod, it’s hand-wound with a five-day power reserve. The movement layout was customised for Ophion...
Quill & Pad
Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the exploding juxtaposition between watches and tennis so far in 2019, taking stock of who's sponsoring what and why.
Hodinkee
The same rugged looks, but a very different business.
Revolution
Richard Mille introduces the RM 50-04 Manual Winding Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen powered by the calibre RM 50-03
Video
Time+Tide
Ever since Davide Cerrato took the helm at Montblanc’s watch department, it’s as if the turbo-booster was suddenly turned on. The watches, which were solid before, now have a clarity and a cohesion that makes them a strong option and a force to be reckoned with. Case in point, their 2019 heritage releases … The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 3 watches that prove Montblanc’s Heritage collection is looking to the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When it came up that a review of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato was on the editorial agenda, Felix cocked an eyebrow and said, “Are you going to write about your reaction when you first saw it?” Yes, I thought, when the time comes, I will. So here we are. The day that I first laid eyes … ContinuedThe post MY WEEK WITH: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, and how I got completely turned around to loving it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ladies and the slight of wrist, rejoice! And behold the latest offering from German watchmaker Nomos Glashütte – the Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33. In a first for Nomos’ Metro range, the Rose Gold is being offered to customers exclusively in a 33mm case size. Designed by Nomos’ Berlin-based stalwart Mark Braun, the new Metro … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We will begin to carry the monthly Luxury Industry Performance Index by Dr. Frank Muller, CEO of TBTL, and special correspondent to Deployant writes.
SJX Watches
Badger Watches makes it debut on Kickstarter with the Islander, an automatic wristwatch with an interesting tonneau-shaped case. While most tonneau cases are made up of multiple curved lines, the Islander case is composed of several straight lines and flat surfaces, giving it a slightly 1970s vibe. The brand is based in Singapore – a city-state that’s an island – which is where the model name comes from. Affordable watches like the Islander usually work best if most of the effort is concentrated on one element; here the focus is undoubtedly the case. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 48mm long, the case is steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’s stamped from a block of steel, giving it softer edges and corners than if it were milled, but with a price tag of under US$400 that’s more than enough. Four dial colours are available, including one in silver with blue accents that’s a 99-piece limited edition. With only minimal text on the edge, the dials have the same stamped radial motif, along with tapered hands reminiscent of the Marc Newson-designed Ikepod watches. The date window is placed at six o’clock to maintain the symmetry of the dial. The Islander is powered by a Sellita SW200-1, which is a clone of the ETA 2824. A low-cost but robust movement, the SW200 has a shortish 38-hour power reserve. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Height: 11mm Material: Steel Water resistance: 50m Movement: SW200-1 Functions: Hours, minutes, and second; date W...
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