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Time+Tide
Montblanc flexes its Minerva movement muscle with a rich red rattrapante chronograph.The post Montblanc’s new limited edition 1858 Split Second Chronograph dresses in red as a homage to its Minerva roots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
IWC is one of the most recognizable names in the luxury watch market. They have multiple iconic models - one of them being the Pilot’s Watch Mark collection. The Mark series began with the Mark X in 1944 and has remained somewhat constant since then. The latest in the lineup is the Mark XVIII, released in 2016. While not the newest watch from IWC, the range is iconic enough to be still talked about.
Fratello
Back in 2019, I reviewed a purple-dialed Minase Divido. The watch was, and still is, different from anything I’ve ever worn. The insane level of case finishing blew me away. The bracelet construction was just as impressive with its intricate links. So perhaps it’s only appropriate, with my evolving appreciation for vintage rectangular watches, to […] Visit Introducing: The Minase 7 Windows Steel 2.0 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It tends to be a big deal when a watchmaker unveils their first “in-house” movement, a pivotal milestone that often marks a step into the upmarket. For Italian brand Venezianico, tapping into the expertise of Fausto Berizzi, the technical director of OISA, was the key to their first proprietary mechanical caliber, designed, registered, and built entirely in Italy. The result is the Redentore Utopia, and its beating heart: the V5000 Caliber mechanical movement. In a break from convention, the Redentore Utopia is more of a stage for the V5000 Caliber movement-a catalyst for the Venezianico brand and its future momentum. Still, Venezianico matches the enthusiasm of the movement with a visually-gripping timepiece that certainly doesn’t signal its status as simply a vessel for the brand’s technical growth. Wearing a 316L stainless steel case that measures at 38mm in diameter and 8.9mm in thickness, the Utopia is firmly a dress watch. The deep blue dial is constructed via ion plating and features a dazzling, hand-engraved guilloché pattern, designed exclusively for the Utopia on a rose engine lathe by master artisan Riccarfo Renzetti. The result is a radial motif that gives the appearance of being in constant motion, with light glancing off each angle as the watch is shifted on the wrist. On the dial, baton-style, hand-applied indices line the circumference, and faceted alpha hands match the stainless steel case’s polished finish. The sole text detail on the dia...
Time+Tide
Frederique Constant has a 40mm steel perpetual calendar watch with a radiant salmon dial and in-house movement under US$10K. How?The post Frederique Constant has a 40mm salmon dial perpetual calendar for under US$10k?! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Monochrome
Eska may not be a well-known brand, but this revived Swiss watchmaker is gaining attention among enthusiasts. Initially founded in 1918 by Silvan Kocher (whose initials inspired the brand’s name), Eska built a reputation in the mid-20th century before succumbing to the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s. Reborn under the direction of Christophe Chevreton and […]
Monochrome
The title Just Because says it all… because today we’re not talking about the latest release of a brand for sale the next day in stores, waiting for you to spend your money. Today, we are publishing a story for a good cause, to benefit those in need, those who have fewer opportunities than many […]
Fratello
Almost exactly one year ago, J&Berg;, a new Finnish brand, launched with its debut model, the B2. The watches were met with near-universal praise due to their looks, materials, and specifications. A clean, modern design that could only be described as Nordic seemed to be a crowd-pleaser. After the success of the initial references, the […] Visit The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, Brellum has consolidated a portfolio of well-built chronographs with a slightly vintage aura powered by chronometer-certified movements. With a limited production of around 299 watches a year, Brellum’s policy of direct sales allows the brand to keep its prices in check. The Pandial collection highlighted its racetrack credentials with […]
Fratello
Tudor’s Black Bay line has become the foundational building block for the modern brand. The Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” brings the summer vibes in the form of a 37mm dive watch. Let’s take a look. Tudor was once a more affordable entry point into the Rolex stable, sharing many parts, including cases, crowns, and […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The day I visited Biver started like any other – with breakfast. But it wasn’t a normal breakfast, because I was seated opposite Jean-Claude Biver, at his own kitchen table. A few days after Watches & Wonders wrapped up I had the opportunity to visit the brand’s atelier in the countryside near Geneva, and I was lucky enough to spend some time with the man himself before he went to the airport; he was headed to Boston to deliver a guest lecture at Harvard Business School. Dismissed in his early career as a ‘nostalgia salesman,’ Mr Biver helped pioneer the contemporary luxury watch industry in the midst of the Quartz Crisis by proving the consumer demand for artisanal mechanical watches. The story is well-known but it bears repeating; Mr Biver, together with his friend Jacques Piguet, head of the esteemed Frederic Piguet manufacture, paid CHF22,000 to buy the rights to a defunct brand from what would later become Swatch Group. Their deft products and marketing made Blancpain one of the stars of the mechanical watch renaissance, allowing the pair to sell the brand back to Swatch a decade later for CHF60 million. From left to right: CEO James Marks, Jean-Claude Biver, and Pierre Biver. Image – Biver The success of Blancpain was extraordinary and helped pave the way for the rebirth of other brands like A. Lange & Söhne. But this was just the opening act. After selling Blancpain back to Swatch, Mr Biver helped put Omega on the wrist of James Bond and transformed Hub...
SJX Watches
Tudor is beach-ready with a new version of the vintage-sized dive watches, the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Matched with a “five-link” bracelet, the relaxed colorway – on a granular, textured dial notably – targets a different market without sacrificing the Black Bay 54’s impressive specifications or value proposition. Initial Thoughts The 37 mm case and utilitarian looks of the standard Black Bay 54 made it a great unisex option, perfect for men who appreciate vintage proportions or women who want a dive watch they could wear without it wearing them, or anyone in between. Tudor is arguably leaning towards a more feminine style in its marketing with the “Lagoon Blue”, though with the current popularity of turquoise dials, this is sure to be another gender-neutral hit. The keen-eyed will also note the slightly reflective, granular dial finish, which isn’t that novel in itself, but is notable for Tudor, which traditionally employs plainer dial surfaces. New look aside, the Lagoon Blue is still an excellent value. When considering the build quality, high-spec movement, and micro-adjust clasp, it’s difficult to find anything comparable at US$4,350, which alone is commendable. This, combined with a Jubilee-esque bracelet and in-vogue colorway, make the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue extremely compelling. The Slow Life The brand says the Lagoon Blue is meant to honor the slow life, but it’s still a capable diver, with well-lumed hands, dial, and bezel pip, i...
Teddy Baldassarre
Making its debut at the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders, the Tudor Black Bay 54 caused something of a riot with its dead-on vintage reimagining of the Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922 from, you guessed it, 1954. Truly, apart from some dial text details and a more contemporary handset, you could easily mistake one for the other from across a room. For fans of historically sized divers, this was pure catnip, without the accompanying headaches associated with vintage watches, most notably, fragility and authenticity. The larger blue Black Bay 58 (left) next to the 37mm Black Bay 54 (right) Getting both the look and a warranty proved to be impossible to resist, leading to waiting lists at ADs and plenty of Instagram FOMO. Let’s face it, many collectors are more attuned to the stylistic path that Tudor has taken in recent memory, with an aesthetic that’s more tool than jewel. The Tudor of yore was a more attainable Rolex, with models like the Tudor Sub nearly identical to the Rolex version, apart from the movement within. But as Rolex has sized up and blinged out, the two corporate siblings’ paths have diverged, with Tudor more than happy to scoop up the business of enthusiasts who prefer a retro feel in their timepieces. Like many armchair super-spies, I’m all-in on a watch that wouldn’t be out of place on Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, despite having never once fired a speargun. So now that the dust has settled and the BB54 has been out in the wild for ...
Monochrome
Over the past few years, the name Gérald Genta has become one of the most famous in the watch industry. There are multiple reasons for this. First, thanks to the work done by Evelyne and Alexia Genta (respectively his wife and daughter), with the Gerald Genta Heritage Association. Second, the so-called “Picasso of Watches” was […]
Worn & Wound
Usually when watchmakers brag about space cred, they bring up models that have gone to space or that are made of rocks from space or that take inspiration from the solar system. Zach Smith has them all beat: the Ohio-based horological craftsman makes aerospace engineering components (among other things) at his workshop, Hour Precision. Smith had hoped from the start that Hour Precision would make watches, and found along the way the machines and expertise you need to machine intricate watch movement pieces translate well to making parts for semiconductors, medical equipment, and, of course, aerospace components. That move into non-horological industries came relatively recently for Smith, however. Before the micro-machining and before he founded Hour Precision, Smith was a high-school-aged watch enthusiast who landed a job in a jewelry school. “I was fixing heart rate monitor watches. There was a brand called Polar before the Apple Watch that made fitness watches, and I started off doing that and then moved,” said Smith. “My boss at the time was selling pre-owned Rolex. He would buy product from walk-ins and from other suppliers and refurbish the Rolex watches, polish them, etc., and then sell them. After a while where I was doing well with the Polar watches, he asked me if I wanted to start doing that.” Zach Smith, front left, upon graduation from watchmaking school. Image courtesy Zach Smith @zachsmiami From there, Smith moved to another store that processed betw...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been paying attention to Tudor over the last few years, you know that a key component of their release strategy has been to drop unexpected dial colors into catalog staples at seemingly random intervals throughout the year. We’ve seen this play out with the Black Bay Chronograph multiple times, with pink and blue editions released unexpectedly and quickly allocated to collectors. Today, Tudor is trying something similar with the Black Bay 54, their most compact version of the Black Bay dive watch. The new Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is more than just a dial variant, as it represents the first expansion of the Black Bay 54 line since it was introduced two years ago with a straightforward black dial. The first follow up after a hit watch is always an interesting bit of trivia for those of us who consider ourselves watch nerds. This release echos the blue dialed version of the Black Bay 58, which was perhaps even more of a sensation than the original when it saw a surprise release in the early days of the pandemic. Until this ywar’s Watches & Wonders, when a red 58 was launched, those two references somewhat surprisingly made up the entire Black Bay 58 collection. Time will tell if Tudor is quicker to produce new variants of the 54, but this version exists as a nice counterpoint to the debut. The “Lagoon Blue” dial has a light, almost turquoise-like tone, along with the familiar Snowflake handset and lume filled hour markers. The dial has what Tudor des...
Time+Tide
Ready for the beach club. The post Tudor go all summery with the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Farer released the initial Aqua Compressor series back in 2017. This made it one of the earliest model lines for the brand, which was founded in 2015. Mysteriously, the model disappeared from the catalog for a brief period, but it has returned in three colorways. Why did it temporarily vanish? Improvements were desired along with […] Visit Hands-On With The New Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla Hunter Green to read the full article.
Deployant
MB&F; unveils their 2025 edition of the HM8 Mark 2 with a new addition in purple body panels, limited edition of 33 pieces.
Monochrome
Since the introduction of the Black Bay collection in 2012, Tudor has never ceased to expand this range of dive watches, moving up and down in size to now offer a whole range of options. If we look exclusively at the proper dive models, there’s the classic Black Bay 41mm, the smaller Black Bay 58 […]
Time+Tide
Returning to the catalogue, this super deep diver comes with some serious updates and raises money for a good cause. The post The Farer Aqua Compressor returns with a titanium case and a new movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Chris Antzoulis talks about how we as watch fans can help make our hobby more welcoming.The post Why gender isn’t the point, but recognition is: how the watch world can be more inclusive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen has steadily expanded its heritage-inspired collection, breathing new life into some of its most charming vintage references. After reviving the Antarctic Diver in 2023, a reissue of a 1950s dive watch that became one of the brand’s icons, Nivada now turns to a lesser-known model from the late 1960s: the Aquamar. The new […]
Fratello
When we introduced you to the new combination of a Rolex 1908 in yellow gold paired with a Settimo bracelet on April 1st, the price of the full-gold ensemble was CHF 33,400. On that same date, the cost of gold was reported at US$3,120.93 per ounce. As I write this on June 10th, the price […] Visit Hands-On With The Yellow Gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet to read the full article.
Fratello
We’re back with the latest release from Brellum. The new Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE is a nautically inspired chronograph available in two case materials. Brellum may be a small brand, but buyers can expect a finely finished watch with a flourish of details. Plus, the customer service experience is unique and often includes founder […] Visit Introducing: The Brellum Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE to read the full article.
Fratello
Today on Fratello Talks, Nacho, Thomas, and Lex join forces to discuss the topic of watch styling for enthusiasts, sharing some of their thoughts, opinions, and methods. Though some people like to think of watches as functional objects, they are closer to fashion accessories in today’s world. As much as that might sound like blasphemy […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Styling For Enthusiasts to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin has introduced two new additions to the Wristmons collection-Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. The skeletonized masks don’t conceal much at all, putting the cadrature on full display. Chaykin launched the first “skeleton” Wristmon back in 2021 with the one-off Martian Tourbillon for Only Watch. The Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask were teased as early as 2023, but production was delayed by the ambitious Stargazer Wristmon project the same year. Initial Thoughts For better or worse, Konstantin Chaykin isn’t famous for his intricate clocks or creative complications. It was his Joker watches that put him on the map, at least outside of Russia. In a way, these are novelty watches, but Chaykin’s creativity has kept the Joker series relevant far longer than expected, and he’s managed to work some of his most ambitious ideas, like the Stargazer and ThinKing, into the Joker design language. The Iron and Gold Mask watches are austere compared to other entries in the Wristmons series, which makes them a good option for those interested in Chaykin’s work, but themselves a little too serious to wear his more whimsical creations. The openworked dial and retrograde date also add technical appeal that’s lacking on typical wristmons. The Module Behind the Mask The module is decorated with a traditional frosted finish, applied through sandblasting, inspired by historical pocket watches but with contrasting highly polished bevels for a more...
Teddy Baldassarre
Knowing how to wear a watch - to really wear a watch - is like knowing how to wear a suit, or how to choose the right necktie or cuff links, or what to pack for a beach weekend or mountain hiking retreat. It’s a skill set that would seem to be innate but, especially for many newcomers to the appreciation of watches, often comes with a set of questions - questions that many might feel are way too basic to actually ask out loud for fear of looking like a novice. In this article, we compile some of those deceptively simple questions and do our best to answer them. What wrist should I wear my watch on? In general, the vast majority of wristwatch wearers wear them on the non-dominant hand - i.e., the hand that you don’t write with, aka the one that is slightly weaker and less dexterous (something we also covered here). For most of the human population - anywhere from 85 to 90 percent, according to studies - this hand is the left hand. Wearing the watch on the non-dominant hand simply makes keeping track of the time while performing the duties of everyday life much easier. Imagine, for example, trying to write, sketch, or paint with the same hand on which you’re regularly checking the time. Or checking the time on the wrist of the same hand you’re holding a drink in, which could lead to plenty of absent-minded spills. For that matter, try to envision winding or setting your watch with your less dexterous, non-dominant hand. Wearing the watch on the left hand...
Monochrome
With its Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship, Seiko has been exploring multiple facets of Japanese culture. Whether it’s about the materials used to create the dials, the designs inspired by antique Japanese textiles or ceramics or some of the earliest watches done by the brand, Presage is all about refined execution. On the topic of traditional […]
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