Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Six Baby-Blue Watches You Could Conceivably Afford
Does the scarcity (and price) of the Tiffany Nautilus give you the blues? Try one of these alternatives.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold
A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...
Deployant
New: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – Final Edition
Zenith announces the Final Edition of the Chronomaster Revival Lupin the Third - black and white dial in an A386 case with the El Primero 400 movement.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition
Naomi Osaka is undeniably one of the modern tennis greats, but where she really stands out is in the press conferences. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not a tennis fan, but her dry humour and earnest attitude makes her seem like one of the most approachable and down-to-earth athletes of this generation. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
No Secret: The Journe Society Chronometer From F.P. Journe – Reprise
While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.
Time+Tide
Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy
Musician and producer Mark Ronson has just been revealed as Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador. The good news? This isn’t your standard take the-money-and-run celebrity endorsement. The DJ, songwriter and record producer is a genuine watch guy as this peek into his collection reveals. Better still, ahead of this announcement, Ronson’s go-to wristwear offered stone-cold proof … ContinuedThe post Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available in The Shop: The IWC GST Chrono Rattrapante (and how it works)
IWC’s future-facing GST series of watches, first released in 1997, represent an important (and under-rated) transitional point for the brand. The sleek modern lines of this IWC GST Chrono Rattrapante are truly unique and packed with a truly important mechanism.
Time+Tide
What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches?
Grand Seiko is wasting no time in 2022, dropping two new icy blue US Special Editions straight out of the gate and now making waves with a second “White Birch” inspired watch: The Grand Seiko SLGA009. This release ushers in a new era for Grand Seiko watchmaking that the brand refers to as Evolution 9 … ContinuedThe post What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Inside Burgundy’s History, Including A ‘Royal War’ With Champagne
When Ken Gargett first got interested in wine, he was warned about Burgundy. It was made abundantly clear that he (by which he means a bunch of friends with far more experience in wine than he had) drank Bordeaux. But times change and the greatest wines he has tasted have been Burgundies. Here he relates the region's fascinating history, including a historical war of words with Champagne.
Hodinkee
Just Because: Why Is Citizen Called Citizen?
"The world is full of obvious things which nobody by any chance ever observes." Sherlock Holmes, The Hound Of The Baskervilles
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year”
If you want to get know what makes any given watch collector tick, then it is wise to get a sense of what is in their watch collection. But if you really want to dig deeper, then its best to ask which watch they wear the most. Right before the close of 2021, the team … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Oris Big Crown x Cervo Volante
Oris’s 80-year-old classic gets another series in impossibly pretty dial colors and the sumptuous feel of Cervo Volante deer leather.
Time+Tide
Dialled down: This artist is creating the tiniest watches in the world
In recent years, there’s been a noticeable trend for watch cases returning to the smaller and more classical sizes of old. Robbie Jones (@tinyassprops) takes it to a whole other level. The artist creates impeccably detailed models of miniature watches. How tiny? They have diameters under 5mm wide. “When I was five-years-old, my grandmother used … ContinuedThe post Dialled down: This artist is creating the tiniest watches in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...
Time+Tide
Meet our new Social Media Manager and the gold Rolex Yacht-Master that ignited his love for watches
“Hi. I’m Jeremy and I’m honoured to be the new Social Media Manager for Time+Tide. I’ll be behind the scenes engaging with all of you, so don’t hesitate to reach out and chat.” Jeremy’s passion for watches started over 25 years ago and was fuelled by the love his parents had for them – especially … ContinuedThe post Meet our new Social Media Manager and the gold Rolex Yacht-Master that ignited his love for watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
Vacheron Constantin's single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus combining grand complication watches with mastery of artistic crafts.
SJX Watches
Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only
Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...
Deployant
Six Watches That Will Inspire You For 2022
For a start in 2022, we will be inspiring you with a list of incredible watches to work towards for your watch collection.
Time+Tide
Do you like free stuff? Check out the bonus gifts you’ll now get with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute
As if Mido needed to offer even better value for money, each purchase of the Mido Ocean Star Tribute will now include a free Mido-branded backpack and Swiss Army knife. If you’ve ever been to a particularly friendly watch boutique and struck up a good conversation, you may know the joys of getting some free … ContinuedThe post Do you like free stuff? Check out the bonus gifts you’ll now get with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: Everything You Need To Know About The Omega Speedmaster
All things Speedy can be found right here, from a comprehensive Reference Points feature to the history of Snoopy.
Deployant
QuickTakes: the new Harry Winston Project Z14 Retrograde Seconds
Overall, the Harry Winston Z14 fares well in design and complication. Its approach shows that it understands the modern affluent buyer, with the current trend of sports luxury timepieces. The openworked design is well executed and the retrograde display cleverly shows the snail cam in action for dial side animation. The watch is limited to 300 pieces and has a retail price of US$26,400.
Time+Tide
WHO TO FOLLOW: Get your vintage vibes from @thefemalewatchcollector
There is a reason why the collective love for vintage continues to grow in the watch community. The styles and designs of the past heavily influence what we see today. So for many, the allure of the original becomes much stronger than that of a modern reinterpretation. Beyond these elements, other factors can also be … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: Get your vintage vibes from @thefemalewatchcollector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater
Most famous for its jewelled timepieces and the Astronomia, Jacob & Co. specialises in over the top watches. One of its latest is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, it’s a massive watch in the brand’s typical style of a sapphire cake dome containing a 758-component movement. While The Godfather branding on the dial is gaudy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressively complex. The Godfather repeater can chime the time with the minute repeating function and also play The Godfather theme on the miniature two-cylinder musical box within the case (see the video just below). That makes it a two-train grand complication at heart: one barrel and going train drives the triple-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and train power the music box. Initial thoughts Jacob & Co. specialises in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. The Twin Turbo Furious, for example, is one of the tamer complications the brand offers. The Godfather repeater fits right into that repertoire. It’s enormous – almost 50 mm wide and over 20 mm high – so it scores low on wearability. But it scores high on making a state on the wrist, in both aesthetics and function, which is unquestionably the point of the whole exercise. The button that activates the music box, with the slide for the repeater just below it That said, the large size is not...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Goodbye 2021, hello 2022…
After a jam-packed calendar of novelty debuts and watch fairs, the holiday break was welcomed by the Time+Tide team. As watch lovers, not just labourers, we were, of course, still plugged into the community – ears to the ground and fingers on the pulse. But it was also a time to be with friends, family, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Goodbye 2021, hello 2022… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Book Review: ‘Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul’ – If You Love Independent Watchmaking, You Will Love This Book
Elizabeth Doerr was particularly pleased to receive a copy of 'Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie With Russian Soul' and to discover it was expertly written by Alexey Kutkovoy, both of whom she has known and respected for many years. Her verdict? "There is nothing left to say but 'spectacular'.”
Deployant
G-SHOCK releases new G-SQUAD Red Out Sports Edition
Casio G-SHOCK announced two new G-SQUAD Red Out series, which are the new colorways of the tough sports watches with smartphone connectivity.
Hodinkee
Interview: Why Indie Watchmaking Star Kari Voutilainen Is All-In On Reviving An Underrated Danish Brand
The Finnish watchmaker taps into his past to chart the future of a hidden gem.
Revolution
Mr Talking Hands on: Three Hidden Gems From Omega
Looking for a watch that’s a bit different, a bit interesting? Of course, you are. Well, how about this: I’ll save you the effort of looking. Here are three hidden gems from Omega - and there isn’t a Speedmaster in sight
Time+Tide
The Time+Tide audience has spoken: Your favourite watch under $1000 is…
With more and more people looking to buy wristwatches, it is crucial that there are more fiscally viable opportunities to join in on the fun. Many people can’t spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a watch. Fortunately, however, you don’t necessarily have to in order to secure some high-quality wristwear. We recently shared a … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide audience has spoken: Your favourite watch under $1000 is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119
The arrival of the next-generation Calatrava.