Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Quartz Crisis Casualty Revived! Say Hello To Excelsior Park
And this first release is knocked squarely out of the … oh, never mind.
Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)
37,771 articles · 225 videos found · page 774 of 1267
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca
Now in its third decade, Franck Muller is a success story of independent watchmaking, having gone from a small outfit centred on its eponymous founder to a brand with nine-figure annual revenue. Alongside its stable of inventive and highly complicated wristwatches, the brand is most famous for its tonneau-shaped watch case – the Cintrée Curvex – which was so successful in the 1990s that made tonneau cases a thing in contemporary watchmaking. The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of that tonneau shape, while adopting the palette and styling of the Cintrée Curvex Casablanca that was a bestseller when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was introduced in 2014, the Casablanca makes it debuts with a new 43 mm size that fills the gap between the 41 mm and 45 mm cases. Initial thoughts The original Casablanca took its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Meant to evoke the era of steamship travel and exotic port cities, the Casablanca had oversized Arabic numerals and dials in retro colours like salmon and sand. That’s been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a distinctly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a strong and appealing design that is arguably even more quintessentially Franck Muller than the earlier versions of the Vanguard. The Casablanca is available as a time-only and also a chronograph Because the look is very much typical of Franck Muller, thi...
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Six Baby-Blue Watches You Could Conceivably Afford
Does the scarcity (and price) of the Tiffany Nautilus give you the blues? Try one of these alternatives.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Blu Notte boasts a bracelet to remember
Panerai is one of those brands which knows its niche and sticks by it, with a legion of loyal fans all proud to wear the Swiss-made Italian name on their wrists. While they may only have a a few key elements that define their identity as a watch brand, thankfully one such element is a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Blu Notte boasts a bracelet to remember appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold
A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...
Deployant
New: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – Final Edition
Zenith announces the Final Edition of the Chronomaster Revival Lupin the Third - black and white dial in an A386 case with the El Primero 400 movement.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition
Naomi Osaka is undeniably one of the modern tennis greats, but where she really stands out is in the press conferences. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not a tennis fan, but her dry humour and earnest attitude makes her seem like one of the most approachable and down-to-earth athletes of this generation. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
No Secret: The Journe Society Chronometer From F.P. Journe – Reprise
While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.
Time+Tide
Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy
Musician and producer Mark Ronson has just been revealed as Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador. The good news? This isn’t your standard take the-money-and-run celebrity endorsement. The DJ, songwriter and record producer is a genuine watch guy as this peek into his collection reveals. Better still, ahead of this announcement, Ronson’s go-to wristwear offered stone-cold proof … ContinuedThe post Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Inside Burgundy’s History, Including A ‘Royal War’ With Champagne
When Ken Gargett first got interested in wine, he was warned about Burgundy. It was made abundantly clear that he (by which he means a bunch of friends with far more experience in wine than he had) drank Bordeaux. But times change and the greatest wines he has tasted have been Burgundies. Here he relates the region's fascinating history, including a historical war of words with Champagne.
Revolution
Introducing the Oris Big Crown x Cervo Volante
Oris’s 80-year-old classic gets another series in impossibly pretty dial colors and the sumptuous feel of Cervo Volante deer leather.
Time+Tide
Dialled down: This artist is creating the tiniest watches in the world
In recent years, there’s been a noticeable trend for watch cases returning to the smaller and more classical sizes of old. Robbie Jones (@tinyassprops) takes it to a whole other level. The artist creates impeccably detailed models of miniature watches. How tiny? They have diameters under 5mm wide. “When I was five-years-old, my grandmother used … ContinuedThe post Dialled down: This artist is creating the tiniest watches in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only
Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...
Time+Tide
Do you like free stuff? Check out the bonus gifts you’ll now get with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute
As if Mido needed to offer even better value for money, each purchase of the Mido Ocean Star Tribute will now include a free Mido-branded backpack and Swiss Army knife. If you’ve ever been to a particularly friendly watch boutique and struck up a good conversation, you may know the joys of getting some free … ContinuedThe post Do you like free stuff? Check out the bonus gifts you’ll now get with the Mido Ocean Star Tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
QuickTakes: the new Harry Winston Project Z14 Retrograde Seconds
Overall, the Harry Winston Z14 fares well in design and complication. Its approach shows that it understands the modern affluent buyer, with the current trend of sports luxury timepieces. The openworked design is well executed and the retrograde display cleverly shows the snail cam in action for dial side animation. The watch is limited to 300 pieces and has a retail price of US$26,400.
Time+Tide
WHO TO FOLLOW: Get your vintage vibes from @thefemalewatchcollector
There is a reason why the collective love for vintage continues to grow in the watch community. The styles and designs of the past heavily influence what we see today. So for many, the allure of the original becomes much stronger than that of a modern reinterpretation. Beyond these elements, other factors can also be … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: Get your vintage vibes from @thefemalewatchcollector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater
Most famous for its jewelled timepieces and the Astronomia, Jacob & Co. specialises in over the top watches. One of its latest is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, it’s a massive watch in the brand’s typical style of a sapphire cake dome containing a 758-component movement. While The Godfather branding on the dial is gaudy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressively complex. The Godfather repeater can chime the time with the minute repeating function and also play The Godfather theme on the miniature two-cylinder musical box within the case (see the video just below). That makes it a two-train grand complication at heart: one barrel and going train drives the triple-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and train power the music box. Initial thoughts Jacob & Co. specialises in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. The Twin Turbo Furious, for example, is one of the tamer complications the brand offers. The Godfather repeater fits right into that repertoire. It’s enormous – almost 50 mm wide and over 20 mm high – so it scores low on wearability. But it scores high on making a state on the wrist, in both aesthetics and function, which is unquestionably the point of the whole exercise. The button that activates the music box, with the slide for the repeater just below it That said, the large size is not...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Goodbye 2021, hello 2022…
After a jam-packed calendar of novelty debuts and watch fairs, the holiday break was welcomed by the Time+Tide team. As watch lovers, not just labourers, we were, of course, still plugged into the community – ears to the ground and fingers on the pulse. But it was also a time to be with friends, family, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Goodbye 2021, hello 2022… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Book Review: ‘Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul’ – If You Love Independent Watchmaking, You Will Love This Book
Elizabeth Doerr was particularly pleased to receive a copy of 'Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie With Russian Soul' and to discover it was expertly written by Alexey Kutkovoy, both of whom she has known and respected for many years. Her verdict? "There is nothing left to say but 'spectacular'.”
Revolution
Mr Talking Hands on: Three Hidden Gems From Omega
Looking for a watch that’s a bit different, a bit interesting? Of course, you are. Well, how about this: I’ll save you the effort of looking. Here are three hidden gems from Omega - and there isn’t a Speedmaster in sight
Time+Tide
The Time+Tide audience has spoken: Your favourite watch under $1000 is…
With more and more people looking to buy wristwatches, it is crucial that there are more fiscally viable opportunities to join in on the fun. Many people can’t spend thousands and thousands of dollars on a watch. Fortunately, however, you don’t necessarily have to in order to secure some high-quality wristwear. We recently shared a … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide audience has spoken: Your favourite watch under $1000 is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: New Rolex price hikes, which models were the most affected?
Editor’s Note: In a new series for Time+Tide, we recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Turquoise and its value spike in the wake of the record-breaking Patek Phillipe Nautilus 5711/1A-018 … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: New Rolex price hikes, which models were the most affected? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available in the shop: The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy
With a stand out dial and incredible backstory, the Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy is one of Omega’s greatest success stories of recent years. This limited edition of 1970 pieces went viral when it was first released. But in case you’re not across the story of the dog, the space agency and the Swiss watchmaker, here’s five reasons why this watch (selected from Watchfinder & Co) is one of the coolest Omega limited edition Speedmasters ever.
SJX Watches
Omega Unveils the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold
Omega’s opening act for the year is a splendid reinterpretation of the first-ever Speedmaster, the ref. 2915-1 of 1957. More accurately, it’s a splendidly luxurious take on the vintage original. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold is equipped with (almost) the same movement as the ref. 2915, and retains the same dimensions – but it’s entirely in Omega’s proprietary white gold alloy and enhanced with extras like an onyx dial and enamelled tachymeter scale. Entirely in Canopus gold, Omega’s own white gold alloy Initial thoughts Omega is starting 2022 in a big way with a heavyweight timepiece that perfectly encapsulate the brand’s historical greatness – which naturally means a Speedmaster. And it’s not just any Speedmaster, but arguably the ultimate iteration of the Moon Watch: the cal. 321 in a CK2915-1 case. The result is a watch that seems straight out of 1957 at a glance, but one that’s definitely heftier and shinier up close. The new Speedmaster does a good job at evoking a perfectly preserved example from the 1950s, thanks to clean dial that avoids faux patina. The purely modern aesthetic makes sense, since it gives the watch its own identity and clearly distinguishes it from the vintage originals and later remakes, most notably the 1957 Trilogy Speedmaster released in 2017 for the 60th anniversary of the model. That said, the new Speedmaster isn’t particularly creative – it does feel a little like yet another Speedmaster – since i...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines DolceVita collection delivers statuesque dress watches at very keen prices
Longines really lives and breathes through its heritage models, with countless watches having been reissued, updated, and ultimately honoured through modern reinterpretations of their vintage counterparts. The 1920s and ’30s were a booming time for many industries, but it was perhaps one of the most pivotal points in history for the development of the wristwatch. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines DolceVita collection delivers statuesque dress watches at very keen prices appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface
The complete calendar is a complication that is, in itself, a sum of other complications, namely the day, date, month, and moon phase. Not to be confused with the triple calendar (which does without the moon phase), the complete calendar is one of horology’s most practical and poetic displays. In the realm of luxury watchmaking,Read More
Revolution
Cartier Tank: A Revolution for Our Times
The Cartier Tank, through all its varied forms, possesses an unshakable aura of cool that transcends gender, cultures and centuries.
Time+Tide
Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers
Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Are watches really gaining in popularity? The answer may seem obvious. Auction houses and certain watch designs are setting all kinds of records. Wait lists for hype timepieces … ContinuedThe post Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
8 Favorite Fun Facts From 2021 On Quill & Pad
In no particular order, Elizabeth Doerr shares eight random facts that she found interesting, entertaining, and/or educational that are mined from Quill & Pad articles published in 2021. Enjoy!
Quill & Pad
In Memoriam: People Who Left Us In 2021
Every year people working in the watch industry pass away, and brands come and go. Here Elizabeth Doerr highlights a special few of the people we lost in 2021.