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New: Swatch x Centre Pompidou
Swatch collaborates with French art museum - the Centre Pompidou to create 6 new art themed watches in the Gents and New Gents collection.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Time+Tide
Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways
I’ve always had a crush on the dual register Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection. The design felt modern and sleek while I also appreciated the date complication that was added. Furthermore, Omega still managed to fit a 12-hour counter on the watch. It truly was a match made in heaven until I got to the specifications. … ContinuedThe post Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Alternative Aesthetic
The origins and recent interpretations of regulator dial watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey. In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer. Initial thoughts Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style. I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design. At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned. The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 wat...
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: How Seeing Your Dream Watch In Person Can Change Everything
Let's put the internet aside for once, and do things the old-fashioned way.
Time+Tide
The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver
The diver’s category, pun alert, is already saturated in the watch marketplace. Many of their design cues are quite fixed, as in order to be appealing, as well as meet the demands of the segment, they have to offer certain visual cues and functionality. But, leave it to the Germans to engineer a diver that … ContinuedThe post The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 40mm Hands-on Review
What we like: Great looking watch with solid engineeringExcellent fit and finishComfortable on the wrist What we didn’t : Crown guard may feel fiddly for day-to-day useSharpish edges on the claspNot the easiest watch to change straps Overall rating: 8.125 /10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 First things first. Let’s all get our minds out of the gutter and leave the crude, juvenile schoolyard jokes behind. We’re better than that. Aren’t we? Yes, I get that jokes about balls are just too easy and we should all rise above it and move on to more sophisticated humour. Probably. Ball watches may not be front of mind for the vast majority of us considering a watch purchase, but it really shouldn’t be overlooked… once you get past the name… Yes, I know what I typed just in the previous paragraph. But it’s just too easy. As the size of your balls, all the best quality of the watches are hidden, away from prying eyes. But once you dive deeper you’ll see that perhaps these inner qualities are worth a second glance. Or three. To be honest, much like the rest of you, I’ve not given the Balls a second glance. Even though I’ve known about the brand for a long time, the only thing that I knew about them was their glow-in-the-dark capabilities, thanks to their tritium gas tube technology. Other than that, to me, they were just another brand utilising reliable workhorse movements from ETA/sellita, but not much else stood o...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Grahame Fowler, Supreme Collector Of COMEX Rolex Divers
We know him for his Mil-Spec watches, and today we get a look at the other side of his collection.
Deployant
The new Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep – a technical discourse
Omega released a series of watches yesterday in their Omega Watch Days show. We attended the conference online, and here is our top pick from the watches released – the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A very special watch, challenging the depths of the oceans where no watch has gone to before. Press Release informationRead More
SJX Watches
Recommended Reading: A Guide to the F. P. Journe “Tourbillon Nouveau”
F.P. Journe’s second-generation Tourbillon Souverain, the” Tourbillon Nouveau” or “TN”, was the longest-lived iteration of his first wristwatch model. Produced for 15 years from 2003 to 2018, the TN was replaced in 2019 by the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical (“TV” for short), which was launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Francois-Paul Journe’s first tourbillon wristwatch. Though the first-generation Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and second-generation TN were fundamentally identical – both combined the tourbillon with a constant force mechanism – the TN brought with it several improvements. Most notably, the TN marked F.P. Journe’s transition from brass to 18k red gold for its movement plates and bridges – an impressive breakthrough at the time. The Tourbillon Souverain Regency with a hand-engraved dial The development of the TN along with its various iterations have been detailed in The Tourbillon Nouveau Collector’s Guide by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4moi. Relying on information from F.P. Journe itself, Mr Mehta explains the differences between the first- and second-generation tourbillons before moving on to production numbers and variants. He estimates only 750-850 examples of the TN were produced over its 15-year production run, most of them in the standard catalogue variations. But in his opinion, the rarest standard configuration is likely the version with both the dial and case in rose gold. The ...
Quill & Pad
WatchBox Talks: How A. Lange & Söhne Became One Of The Best In The Business (Video)
Join Alp Sever of Langepedia, collector Michael Hickcox, WatchBox’s Mike Manjos, and our very own Elizabeth Doerr as they discuss A. Lange & Söhne in some depth, examining the German brand’s history and its extraordinary rebirth in the 1990s. This WatchBox Studios video was recorded during Dubai Watch Week 2021 and we bet you learn some things you never knew before.
Quill & Pad
Vault V2+RCT: When An Industry Insider Orders A Custom-Made Watch
The Vault V2+RCT is a very modern creation, yet grounded in old-school craftsmanship and the desire to bring it to a higher, more contemporary level. It is the latest technology combined with the oldest skills – understated by day and extroverted by night. And it is a unique piece made for an industry insider.
Time+Tide
How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches
When I was about a year into teaching myself electric guitar in high school, I couldn’t dream of a better job than working in a music store. To be surrounded by a huge array of instruments that I would usually be staring at online, tinkering with electronics and fixing vintage gear just sounded like pure … ContinuedThe post How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags)
Editor’s note: They’re the questions we all ask ourselves when contemplating a new mechanical watch: is it worth it? Is that price-tag truly justified? Here’s Justin’s excellent piece offers some pointers on what to look for and what separates fine from very fine watchmaking. It’s a question many of us in the industry get on a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Getting To The Bottom Of The Omega Ploprof
How the cult classic dive watch went under and then resurfaced decades later.
SJX Watches
Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon
A start-up that focuses on design and watchmaking, Kross Studio was founded in 2020 but has already rolled out several pop culture-themed watches, including a desk clock in the form of the Batmobile from 1989’s Batman as well as a tourbillon wristwatch modelled the Death Star from Star Wars. Timed to debut just before the premiere of the latest Batman movie, the Batman Tourbillon once again relies on the central tourbillon movement that Kross has used in its past editions, but restyles the tourbillon cage to resemble the “Bat Signal” searchlight. Initial thoughts As was the case with Kross’ earlier watches, the Batman Tourbillon excels in terms of design. Though the brand has launched different editions with the same case and movement, the Batman watch is unique in style and theme. The tourbillon cage, for instance, has been transformed into a distress signal made famous by the “Caped Crusader”. And while the earlier Death Star Tourbillon was equipped with conventional hands, the Batman watch does away with traditional hands, rendering the it much more futuristic. That said, the Batman theme gets in the way of the movement. The Bat Signal frame that sits over the tourbillon obscures an otherwise interesting, oversized central tourbillon. This compromise would be more acceptable if the cage was more figurative and decorative as on the Death Star Tourbillon – where the cage is shaped like the titular planetary laser – which would have made the dial more aes...
Quill & Pad
Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine
Over the last few days, Dan-Andrei Kluska has watched the news in horror. He has lost sleep, he has cried a lot, and he feels that he has been paralyzed by the eruption of war in Europe. After the first shock wave passed and his tears dried, he started to think about the future and was sincerely fearful because a nuclear war would wipe out humanity as we know it. Here he challenges us all to do something (and some have answered the call).
Time+Tide
This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This
As watch enthusiasts progress in their collecting, each proceeding hunt is typically dictated by the box they want to check off next. Brand, complication, sports, dress etc. But serious horology heads often target creations based on their designers, and one designer who has attracted the hearts, minds and wallets of watch buyers around the world … ContinuedThe post This IWC Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta could be yours on Loupe This appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I buy now or wait?
It’s that time of year. As watch journalists, our inboxes start getting inundated with press releases and embargo dates. New collections are created while others are retired with one of the biggest watch fairs of the year around the corner. Yet as crazy as this time is for us, as a collector, it’s probably one … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I buy now or wait? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Let's Talk About Those Watches In 'Severance'
We can't stop watching the newest show on Apple TV+. And it's got us looking differently at our wrists.
Quill & Pad
Bindi Block 8 Pinot Noir Australian Wine: A Peacock’s Tail Of Exploding Flavors
There is one Australian winemaker who has not only been extraordinarily consistent, but produced world class Pinot (and Chardonnay), vintage after vintage, across the board: Bindi Wines, thanks to owner and winemaker Michael Dhillon. It would be a brave critic to leave Bindi out of any list of great Aussie Pinots and Ken Gargett rates the small winery among the very top.
Time+Tide
Who Dares Wins: Rolex teamed up with the SAS to create this unique Explorer II. Now you can buy it…
“This watch has generated more interest than any watch we’ve had in stock for a long, long time,” says Tom Jenkinson, a senior watch sales consultant for Xupes, the online site for watches and other collectibles. “It was originally a P.O.A piece, but we were just getting a deluge of inquiries on it to the … ContinuedThe post Who Dares Wins: Rolex teamed up with the SAS to create this unique Explorer II. Now you can buy it… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby
Unveiled last year as part of Hermes’ annual collection of metiers d’art watches, the Arceau Space Derby is typical Hermes with its equestrian motif, but also strikingly different since the dial depicts a jockey riding a robot horse past planets and stars. The Space Derby is actually a pair of watches, a smaller one for ladies with the dial in pink opaline glass, and a larger model for men with an aventurine glass dial that is detailed below. But both have a similar motif on the dial that was taken from an Hermes scarf designed by French filmmaker and cartoonist Ugo Bienvenu. The larger, 41 mm Space Derby Initial thoughts Hermes adapts many of its most famous scarves for metiers d’art watches. Most of the resulting dials are whimsical and subtle in a manner typical of the brand. And Hermes does more of such watches, both in terms of range as well as number, than its immediate rivals Louis Vuitton and Chanel. The diversity of its offerings with artisanal dials is impressive in both style and technique – though horses, big cats, and birds are recurring themes – but even so the Space Derby is unique. While the theme of the Space Derby is still equestrian, it is has a pop art aspect that sets it apart from the usual metiers d’art fare from Hermes. So it’s still recognisably an Hermes watches, but a bit more funky and very much different. But the Space Derby is more than just a fancy dial. As is increasingly the case with fashion and leather goods brands, it is eq...
Deployant
Introducing: Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère – a new independent watchmaker debuts
We have just come across this new independent watchmaker by the name of Yosuke Sekiguchi and our preliminary exploration of the new Primevère.
Time+Tide
WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued?
Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into how Omega Speedmaster Limited Editions are rocketing in value. Today we are going to dive into the market status of first generation A. Lange & … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available in the shop: The sun-kissed, seductive Reservoir × Revolution Hydrosphere Bronze ‘Maldives Edition’
The retrograde Reservoir × Revolution Hydrosphere Bronze’ Maldives Edition’ is a breath of fresh air in a world of stuffy dive watches. Add bronze and golden tones to the already unusual configuration and that fresh air takes on a distinctly tropical flavour.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The tiny modification to the Longines Spirit 37 collection that make the watches even better
When the Longines Spirit collection originally dropped, perfection was on everybody’s mind. The design was fresh enough to be exciting, yet familiar enough to feel as though we’d all been thinking about these watches for years already. The details were impeccable, the specifications were all there, and they just looked fantastic, but there was one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The tiny modification to the Longines Spirit 37 collection that make the watches even better appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London
The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022. Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A. Pillars of the brand Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting. Lange 1A The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia. One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th annivers...
Time+Tide
Jon Bernthal is yet another actor to sport this IWC reference on the red carpet…
Look, I wish dress watches would get more attention today. The marketplace, and our wrists for that matter, are saturated with sports and tool watches. When I try to convince people to look for a classic dress watch to add to their collection, I ask them but what about a watch for when you find yourself … ContinuedThe post Jon Bernthal is yet another actor to sport this IWC reference on the red carpet… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon
The average person thinking of Louis Vuitton will have a lot of inspiration from which to draw their impressions. Between the $4000 handbags, $700 T-shirts, and even $1000 bucket hats, the image that Louis Vuitton paints is a surprisingly broad spectrum of wealth across high-fashion and streetwear. Leather goods, fragrances, clothing and eyewear are just … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.