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Monochrome
I have known Jérôme Lambert for longer than I want to admit. The man started his watchmaking career right there, at La Grande Maison, or the Watchmaker of Watchmakers. Lambert has already been CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre from 2002 to 2013, and he left his mark on the brand. Strong collections, focus on complications and high-end […]
Time+Tide
The iconic Khaki Field Mechanical gets a frosty upgrade, as part of a four-part series celebrating Hamilton boutiques in iconic locations.The post Hamilton celebrates its Zermatt outpost with an icy, alpine-inspired Khaki Field appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Founded in 1882, Hanhart gained fame as a producer of stopwatches in the early 1920s, followed by Flieger chronographs for pilots in the late 1930s. Today, it is one of the go-to brands for retro pilot watches updated with contemporary materials and movements. The newest release captures the design of a 1960s chronograph that was […]
Time+Tide
For those looking to ball out, here are the watches that give you the best bling for your buck.The post 13 of the best jewellery watches from $400 to $400,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Last week, Hanhart invited 60 guests to their workshop in Gütenbach, located in the Black Forest region of Germany. The schedule for the day was packed, beginning with a factory tour, an 8 kilometers long Black Forest hike, a Hanhart Museum tour, and finally the unveiling of two new 415 ES chronographs. Felix Wallner and Simon Hall, co-managing directors of Hanhart, guided us through the factory and museum tour. The Gütenbach workshop opened in 1934 as the second production facility for Hanhart. It is now their only manufacturing location. It is impressive that this workshop has been in continuous production since 1934. There is a sense of authenticity, and you can almost taste the oil accumulated over eight decades. Simon took us to the first floor where the raw parts are made. Hanhart is in a unique position as a watch company since they manufacture mechanical and quartz stopwatches along with wrist watches. The machines are from the 1960s, but according to Simon, they outperform the modern machines in terms of repairs and total cost of ownership. These machines are used for making pinions, wheels, mainplates, and more. Hanhart manufactures 90% of the parts for their mechanical stop watches in this workshop. Hanhart in the past manufactured more stopwatches than wrist watches. In 2007, they made 20,000 stop watches, but this number decreased significantly as the demand cooled. Simon says that demand is again picking up with annual production of approximately 5,00...
Worn & Wound
Sir David Lionel Salomons (1851–1925), the nephew of the original Sir David Salomons (1797–1873), was a renowned collector of Breguet watches and a significant figure in the world of horology. His passion for precision engineering, combined with his wealth and scholarly interest, made him one of the most prominent collectors of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s masterpieces. The Salomons were a highly respected family in 18th century London society. The family had arrived and settled in Bury St in the City of London from the Netherlands in the early 18th century, attracted by the financial opportunities in the developing British economy. They chose this part of the city because it was both a centre of the finance industry and had an established Jewish community. David Lionel’s Uncle was elected as the Lord Mayor of London in 1855 (below). He was the first Jewish Lord Mayor of London, and known for fighting the Jewish cause in Parliament, but he was also a pioneer of joint stock banking and held prominent positions in other fields. Sir David Salomons (1797–1873), Lord Mayor of London (1855). Solomon Alexander Hart (1806–1881). Guildhall Art Gallery. Image courtesy of City of London Corporation Early Life David Lionel Salomons, was born in Brighton. He was educated for a short period at University College, London, and afterwards at Caius College, Cambridge, where he graduated with natural science honours in 1874. He was a member of the Institution of Electrical Engi...
Teddy Baldassarre
Known for their cutting-edge use of lightweight materials and extravagant prices, Richard Mille is arguably the most exclusive watchmaker in the world. Before getting into the most expensive Richard Mille watches, it's good to get a little context on both the brand and the man. While not a watchmaker by trade, Mille and his brand co-founder Dominique Guenat understood the importance of having a vision and making it a reality. An obsession with lightweight materials and design that push the boundaries of what’s possible in a package as small as a wristwatch, along with some excellent marketing (not to mention good luck), have resulted in a brand that is at the pinnacle of the very highest end of the market. Image by Sotheby's Yes, the six- and seven-figure price tags of Richard Mille watches continue to baffle people (we covered why here). Exclusivity is key, especially in a world where the number of billionaires jumped 500% between 2000 and 2024, and the number of ultra-high-net-worth-individuals (UHNWI) with at least $30 million in net investible assets has grown to 626,619 globally. Of course, Richard Mille watches do not fetch record-breaking prices simply due to exclusivity but because of the exhaustive R&D; process that is unlike any other in watchmaking. Here, we will take a look at some of the most expensive Richard Mille watches ever. By the nature of how these things work, just about all of these sales are coming from the auction market, where the already mind-bo...
SJX Watches
Between 1885 and 1920, Elliot Cabot Lee (1854-1920) quietly built one of the world’s largest collections of very complicated watches, but unlike the famous rivals Henry Graves Jr. or James Ward Packard, both of whom favoured Swiss watches (and primarily Patek Philippe), Lee was a devotee of English watchmaking during its heyday. Many remarkable watches that were commissioned by Lee, or passed through his collection, have surfaced over the last few years, such as the J.W. Benson Supercomplication, the Dent Astronomical watch, or even J.P. Morgan’s pocket-planetarium, but with their provenance unknown. Most of Lee’s collection of pocket watches. Image – The National Jeweler 1922 A patrician collector Elliot Cabot Lee was born on April 16th, 1854 in Brookline, Massachusetts. Both of Lee’s parents hailed from Boston Brahmin families and were third cousins. His father, Henry Lee Jr., was a partner at investment bank Lee, Higginson & Company, where Lee also worked, though only briefly. His mother, Elizabeth Perkins Cabot, was the granddaughter of the extremely wealthy Thomas Handasyd Perkins – a slaver turned philanthropist. Lee graduated from Harvard with a law degree and passed the bar, though he seems to have practiced law little if at all. He was well-travelled and well-read, accumulating a notable book collection, according to the Brookline Historical society. Besides his watch collection, Lee also took an interest in the nascent automobile. He built a garage, o...
Fratello
Well, well, well… It appears that Certina isn’t standing still and allowing microbrands to have all the fun with color. The new DS-X GMT collection consists of five new models. One visited us at Fratello HQ, and it marks a real departure for Certina and the Swatch Group in general. Gear up for fun, affordable, […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT to read the full article.
For this latest edition of Tool/Kit we’re recounting the experience of explorer and photographer, Niklas Marc Heinecke, as he traversed the glacier at Vatnajökull, Iceland. With him is a small troop of scientists and the Fortis Marinemaster M-40, together making the trek… “for the sake of knowledge.” We’re honored to share his story. Vatnajökull, Iceland. At 5:00 a.m., somewhere in the heart of Europe’s largest glacier, I peel my hand from the warmth of a down sleeping bag to check my tool watch. The Fortis Marinemaster M-40 ticks relentlessly, a constant in a landscape defined by change. Outside, the silence of fresh snow blankets a frozen world still recovering from the night’s storm. The post Tool/Kit: Niklas Marc Heinecke Takes the Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Across Europe’s Largest Glacier appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Tudor continues their extended campaign of surprise drops, and colorful editions of their Pelagos FXD Chrono, with the new Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow.” It’s been clear for some time now that Tudor’s broad release strategy includes limited production versions of certain key references, and they frequently highlight a bright color that’s not part of the core collection, and are always tied to a specific athletic partnership. This new version of the Pelagos FXD Chrono is once again made from Tudor’s carbon composite material, and is effectively the same design as their recent release of this watch in pink. That watch, announced in May, was timed to coincide with the Giro d’Italia cycling event, and this one is similarly meant to be tied to the Tour de France. Specifically, Tudor has identified their partnership with Fabian Cancellara, a brand ambassador and former pro cyclist who is now the owner of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team, as the impetus for this watch. Cancellara, over the course of his cycling career, led the Tour de France for a total of 29 days and obtained 8 stage victories. Yellow is the color of the jersey worn by the Tour de France leader through each stage, so you often see watches tied to the race sporting the color it’s most associated with. With each passing release, it becomes clearer that Tudor is aiming to make the Pelagos FXD Chrono a specialty sports watch as opposed to the diving chrono it looks like on paper, and have really leaned into ...
Worn & Wound
One of the things I really enjoy about covering microbrands and small independents is seeing how young brands develop in unexpected ways over time. My first exposure to De Rijke & Co. was through Zach Weiss’s review of their Amalfi 1S back in 2020. At that point, the brand’s calling card was their trick case design that allowed the wearer to easily rotate the dial for a better viewpoint while driving, as well as customized design options so clients could effectively create their own unique version of the watch. This “gentleman driver’s” watch, as they referred to it, remains quite appealing, and the case of course is still a part of their collection. In no way, however, could it have predicted the success the brand would find making watches featuring the “Miffy” character, a staple of Dutch children’s books since the 1950s. Over the last three years, De Rijke & Co. has released several Miffy themed watches that go well beyond simple character dials. The Miffy motif has been used to experiment with bold colors, lume, and different expressions of the moonphase complication. These watches are whimsical, a lot of fun, and quite far removed, in my opinion, from the earlier Amalfi pieces, and it’s fascinating to consider how the brand got to this point. Today, they’ve unveiled what is said to be the final Miffy watch. According to the brand, the new White Ceramic Miffy Moonphase has been in the works for three years. It is, it turns out, quite complicated...
Monochrome
The unique story of Miffy and De Rijke & Co starts back in 2022, when Dutchman Laurens de Rijke, founder of his own watchmaking company, launched something very unexpected: the Miffy Moonphase. The iconic Dutch cartoon bunny is known and loved the world over, and carefully protected by a foundation honouring Dick Bruna’s (Miffy’s creator) […]
WatchAdvice
In a world first (correct me if I’m wrong), we have got our hands on the new Rolex Land-Dweller and road tested it for a week out in the wild! What We Love The movement innovation in the new Calibre 7135 The look and finish of the Flat Jubilee is stunning Comfort on the wrist is hard to fault What We Don’t Lack of microadjust on the bracelet due to the clasp design Accessibility to buy will be a challenge Style cues may not be to everyone’s taste Overall Rating: 9.125/10 Value For Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 10/10 What is now becoming something of a common and unfortunate issue, the new Rolex releases were leaked about a week out from Watches & Wonders this year. We had seen teasers obviously on Rolex’s social media, but then someone leaked the images, and this got the watch world buzzing. Unfortunately, these images would never have done the new Rolex models any justice whatsoever, thanks to their poor quality. However, it gave us enough to see what the new models were, and for me, piqued my curiosity as to what they would look like in person. The one thing I’ve learned with the Rolex is, and this is coming from someone who owns several pieces and actually loves the brand, you can never judge a book by its cover with them. And this year was certainly no different – the turquoise dial Daytona is actually quite stunning in the metal and on the wrist, the rose gold GMT with the Tiger Iron dial is now one of those pieces I have a...
Worn & Wound
Peak Design Launches the New Pro Tripod Line If you ask Peak Design, six years ago they re-imagined what a tripod could be with their Travel Tripod. Designed to be lightweight, compact, and most importantly, useful, the tripod took the market by storm, becoming the “go to” option for many photographers. Taking what they learned from this first release, along with some input from Jimmy Chin (Oscar-winner, outdoor fanatic, and talented storyteller), they’re back with a brand new collection, the Pro Tripod. Featuring similar design language to the original travel tripod, this new line allows customers to choose between portability (Pro Lite) and rigidity (Pro Tall) for the ideal addition to their kit. Each of the three models features a newly designed ball head with a “quicker and stronger camera attachment”, fluid panning, and a single adjustment ring that locks (and unlocks) the ball head. Additionally, Peak Design has re-engineered their leg locks to allow for faster setup and tear down. With over $2.8 million dollars pledged and 3,000 plus backers at the time of writing, it’s clear that people are excited about this new line of tripods. You can check out the new series of tripods in each of the Peak Design stores or on their kickstarter page, here. Denis Villeneuve Tapped for the Next Bond Film There was some big news in the world of James Bond this week. While the world waits to see who will be tapped to play the superspy following Daniel Craig’s run,...
Time+Tide
Crowns on the left: cursed, cool or a concession for southpaws? Tom gets deep into destro watches.The post Destro watches – does crown position really matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. Freshly back from two weeks of holidays, I’d like to properly kick off our overview of the first half of the year. This week, we’ll focus on our five favorite dress watches of 2025 so far. While that may not be the first category you think of, it’s certainly a good […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Dress Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-five marks Andersen Genève’s 45th anniversary, although founder Svend Andersen’s career as an independent watchmaker has spanned far more than 45 years. For the anniversary, the brand has revived the Communication 45, the tenth world timer wristwatch in its catalogue since Andersen Genève was established in 1990. Initial thoughts Danish horologist Svend Andersen is an important name in independent watchmaking. The 83-year-old was one of the founders of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants AHCI, along with Vincent Calabrese. One of the earliest models he introduced after setting up his brand was a world time wristwatch – powered by a mechanism of his own design – that was inspired by his tenure working at Patek Philippe. Appropriately the brand is marking its anniversary with the very same complication. The new Communication 45 (left) and its predecessor from 1990 With the Communication 45, Andersen Genève seeks to reinvent its original world timer, without being disruptive. The new model sports a refined case with prominent teardrop lugs and a textured dial in cognac-shaded Blue Gold. Notably, the case employs two peculiar crowns that are flush with the case band, a design which seeks to preserve the symmetry of the case - although it all ends up looking slightly odd. The dial is well made and evokes the stylistic lavishness of 1990s luxury watchmaking, yet there is one element that doesn’t fit: the hands. Executed in the sha...
Worn & Wound
It’s been about two weeks since the 2025 Ride to Conquer Cancer charity bike ride took place in Ontario, Canada, along a 200km course beginning in Toronto, winding through Mississauga and Hamilton, and finally ending in Niagara-on-the-Lake. For those who may not be familiar, the Ride hosts thousands of participants raising millions of dollars each year to fund groundbreaking cancer research and patient care via the Princess Margaret Cancer Foundation. This year, I, along with six riders from the watch community, participated in the ride as part of team Can’t Stop Won’t Stop. The team was led by friend of Worn & Wound and now 10-year ride participant (yes, 10 years!), Matt Smith-Johnson. I’m proud to report that Can’t Stop Won’t Stop raised over $51,000 CAD (roughly $37,000 USD), and the Ride as a whole broke records by raising $20.61 million CAD. Ryan Baillie, Associate Vice President for the Ride to Conquer Cancer, and Matt and Evan from team Can’t Stop Won’t Stop, announcing the winner of the Cannondale bike. Team Can’t Stop Won’t Stop at the start of Day 2. Thank You to Our Partners Hitting this fundraising total wouldn’t have been possible without the support of several key partners, who we’re incredibly grateful for: – Boldr Supply Co. collaborated with us on the Boldr Conquer Limited Edition watch, created specifically for the Ride, with proceeds going directly to our team’s total. Leon, thank you for your time and effort on this project! ...
Fratello
Today on Fratello Talks, we are joined by special guest Øystein Husby, co-founder of Straum watches. RJ and Nacho sit down with him to talk all things Straum, including the brand’s origins, meeting co-founder Lasse Farstad at the Oslo School of Architecture and Design, how their background in design and love for Norway’s wild nature […] Visit Fratello Talks: Straum Watches And The New Straum × Fratello Jan Mayen Titanium With Co-Founder Øystein Husby to read the full article.
Fratello
The Baltic Hermétique has been a bona fide hit since its introduction in 2023. Since then, the Besançon, France-based brand has added new models to the lineup, including additional colors and bronze-cased pieces. Today, and just in time for the warm-weather holidays, a collection of four Hermétique Summer watches has been announced. These brightly colored […] Visit Introducing: The New Baltic Hermétique Summer Collection to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A new dial color to commemorate the brand's new dial-making facility in the famed German town for watchmaking.
Time+Tide
GO celebrates a milestone for German watchmaking (plus its new dial manufacture) with a heavy hitting flying tourbillon.The post Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a stunning platinum PanoLunarTourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
If you were to ask any of my coworkers or friends about my style when it comes to watches, the words “tactical,” “diver,” and “tool” would likely come to mind. It’s no secret that I have an affinity for watches with more utility than just telling time, and a good clicky bezel might be my favorite fidget toy of all time. As someone who has had a preference for black and olive drab colors for years, when I dove into watches, it seemed like black and sometimes blue were the only colors available, especially at the price range I considered spending on a watch. That said, as I’ve learned more about watches and discovered some interesting microbrands making bold and adventurous divers, I also realized that if I wanted something more colorful, I’d have a lot of options if I expanded my reach to non-diver sports watches. With the growing number of stealthy items in my collection, I’ve wanted to add something to my collection that you might describe as “flashy” to balance things out a bit. Working to break this mold that I’ve created for myself, I wound up coming across the Mandala Mk3 by Second Hour Watches, and thought that it might make an interesting addition to my collection of tactical and tool focused pieces. In fact, when I wore this watch home from the office for the first time, my girlfriend immediately remarked, “That isn’t a watch I’d expect you to wear, but I like it,” and that’s exactly the reaction I was hoping for. Before I dive i...
Fratello
Italian brand HTD has been gracing us with cleverly updated versions of its releases, and the two Aquatíc dive watches are the next in line. These retro-styled divers first came out in 2021 and turned out to be popular with fans. Four years later, the cases of both watches have been redesigned to be slimmer, […] Visit Hands-On With The Reworked HTD Aquatíc Bicchierini And SpaceBoy Dive Watches to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Speedmaster Reduced was released back in 1988, intended as a smaller and more affordable cousin of the Speedmaster Professional. The Speedmaster Reduced shares most of the same design codes as the Moonwatch but it is undoubtedly one of the more divisive watches out there, especially for those Speedy purists who see it as an imposter that should never have been manufactured. I would imagine that sales were fairly robust, considering how many of these are available on the secondary market and the fact that it was produced from 1988 all the way to 2009. Speedmaster Reduced Case & Bracelet Considering this is called the Speedmaster Reduced, it should be no surprise that the case is indeed smaller than the 42mm Speedmaster Professional (which we did a comprehensive guide to here). Done in stainless steel measuring 39mm wide and 12mm thick with a very compact lug-to-lug height of 45mm compared to the Speedy Pro’s 47.5mm. One of the funny tradeoffs that you get from using an automatic movement instead of a manually wound one is a thicker case, so even with the reduced case size, the 12mm thickness is only about a millimeter slimmer than the Pro. Still, the compact proportions make for an easier wear for those with smaller wrists. The Speedmaster Reduced has 30 meters of water resistance, which is shy of the 50 meters of the Speedy Pro, but I think both require quite a bit of caution with anything more than a splash. The familiar tachymeter bezel is done in aluminum, w...
Time+Tide
The high-tech 20.01 is revised for the fifth series.The post Ming shows off the Series 5 of the complex, AgenGraphe-powered 20.01 chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Piaget combines its traditional expertise in stone dials and ultra-thin movements with the Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian, a handsome – and more original – take on the complicated Polo. The slim white gold case is combined with a mesmerizing dial in blue obsidian, which is not a mineral as often believed, but instead volcanic glass. Initial Thoughts The latest Polo Perpetual Calendar is arguably Piaget’s strongest release of the year. It plays to two of the brand’s traditional strengths, thin movements and natural stone or mineral dials. Piaget is of course not the only brand with a perpetual calendar sports watch. In fact, the Polo perpetual with a blue obsidian dial is similar enough to the competition to be competitive – it possesses the key characteristics of being slim and blue – but manages to do so without being derivative, which is arguably an issue with the earlier iteration of the model. The blue obsidian dial in particular sets this apart from comparable watches since exotic dial materials are relatively rare in this segment. The mechanics inside the latest Polo perpetual remain the same. While not the most sophisticated perpetual calendar mechanism in the segment, the ubiquitous Dubois Depraz calendar module is solid and reliable if adjusted according to protocol. Its widespread use also makes it easy for watchmakers to source parts, which is not always a given when it comes to complicated ultra-thin watches. That, paired with a competent ult...
Worn & Wound
Leica Announces Monopan 50 If you follow the photography industry, or Leica specifically, you’ve likely seen that Leica is celebrating the centennial anniversary of their Leica I camera. First available in 2025, the Leica I was the first commercially successful 35mm film camera and would go on to revolutionize the photography industry as a whole. As part of celebrating this historic anniversary, Leica has released numerous pieces of memorabilia, limited edition cameras, and are hosting numerous parties around the world, but their newest release is a first for the brand: their very own 35mm film. Marketed as a homage to Analogue Black-and-White Photography, this new film will be available in ISO 50 and is said to have “‘ultra-fine grain and super-panchromatic sensitivity”, and can be processed in all black and white developing solutions. Along with the announcement, Leica included various sample photos with a distinct style: high contrast, full of grain, and very detailed. While there’s some speculation about who is physically making the film, you can check out the sample photos and learn more about this release here. Just remember, #FilmIsNotDead. Old School Beats New School From social media to business software, it seems like A.I. is everywhere. While there are some legitimate and wonderful uses, it’s also having some unintended consequences, especially when it comes to education. As Chat GPT has become more accessible and widely used, it didn’t take ...
Time+Tide
With five summery colours, two different sizes, and two strap options to choose from, this diver has something for everyone.The post Christopher Ward brings the summer heat with the new C60 Trident Reef appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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