Deployant
New watch brand alert: Kallinich Claeys releases Einser Zentralsekunde
From a brand new independent from Glashutte, we introduce the Kallinch Chaeys with their first release - the Einser Zentralsekunde.
Results for Glashütte Original Caliber 36
3,417 articles · 10 videos found · page 78 of 115
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Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and the Horophile Team Up Again for Collaboration #2
It should come as no surprise to regular readers of Worn & Wound that we are big fans of Louis Erard. Their irreverent and original approach to watchmaking sets them apart in a crowded market and rarely fails to bring a smile (sometimes literally). But for as good as the brand can be on their own, they are at their best when they aren’t going alone. Collaboration has been the name of the game for Louis Erard in recent years, and this year’s Louis Erard x The Horophile La Petite Seconde Metropolis is an excellent reminder of why. First introduced around this time last year, the first collaboration between Louis Erard and The Horophile (aka Amr Sindi) was a masterclass in updated Art Deco design, and offered collectors a wonderfully understated and modern dress watch. This latest iteration of La Petite Seconde Metropolis builds on last year’s releases, reimagining the detailed watch with a vibrant green dial. If last year’s trio of Metropoli was Louis Erard reflecting back on 1920’s New York, they would tell you that this year’s release is a more contemporary take on the concept. Nowhere is this more evident than in Louis Erard’s use of color. Where last year’s trio of salmon, slate, and tobacco dials punctuated by rose gold accents were unapologetically old school, the green and silver colorway feels decidedly more modern. Of course, look to the remaining Art Deco icons of New York or Paris, and you’ll see plenty of green - from the stained glass windo...
Worn & Wound
Urwerk’s Legendary EMC is Back in a Limited Edition Inspired by the SR-71 Blackbird
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days next week, Urwerk has unveiled what will surely be in the running for “Watch of the Year” talk when 2024 comes to a close. The EMC SR-71 is a new variation of one of the independent brand’s most discussed and honored timepieces. The original EMC, introduced ten years ago, is a former winner of the GPHG prizes in both the “Mechanical Exception” and “Innovation” categories. Even within the strange world of Urwerk, the EMC is an oddity, so it’s always exciting to see them return to this platform with a new variant. EMC stands for Electronic Mechanical Control, a term that seems to contradict itself but actually does a fantastic job of describing exactly what this watch does. What you need to know about how this watch operates is that the traditional time telling functions (hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve) all operate mechanically. But integrated into the movement is an optical sensor linked to the balance that, on demand, can record the rate at which it is oscillating. Using light and an integrated circuit, the movement will tell you the delta between the timing rate of the mechanical movement and a reference oscillator (a 16,000,000 Hz mega-quartz oscillator in this case). Pressing a button on the side of the case activates a meter at roughly 10:00, telling you how fast or slow your watch is running. What’s more, the watch is equipped with a timing adjustment screw on the caseback that can be accessed by the owner wit...
Worn & Wound
Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000
Pilot-style watches represent one of the most popular segments within the industry. Introduced at the dawn of aviation in the early twentieth century, pilot’s watches are the original tool watches. They range from simple, time-only designs to complication-filled behemoths with altimeters and slide rules. From heritage-inspired reissues to cutting-edge technology, there’s a pilot watch to suit every style and budget. They inspire a sense of adventure into the unknown, their function-over-form nature, and often rugged good looks, making them ideal for daily wear. Without further ado, here are fifteen of our favorite pilot-style watches under $5,000. The post Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer Gets the All-Black Treatment
Mido once again turns to its popular vintage remake with the all-black Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961. The latest in a considerable number of iterations of the model, the new Ocean Star stays faithful to the original in outline and features a trademark multicoloured decompression table on the dial. One of the smaller and less prominent brands in the Swatch Group stable that includes Omega and Longines, Mido’s latest is a limited edition of 1,961 pieces to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Ocean Star model. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common enough they have become cliché, especially in this price segment. The Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 has arguably been iterated too often, each time in slightly different colourway, so the new version isn’t all that novel. That said, it is affordably priced – retail is US$1,480 – and boasts an original design thanks to the decompression scale on the dial. Additionally, this version with its black-PVD coated finish stands out against earlier variants with stealthy aesthetic that creates more contrast with the colourful dial. At the same time, the ETA calibre inside has higher specs than most movements in this price segment, a result of Mido’s parent also owning ETA. Stealthy thetics The stainless steel case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high, which give it the proportions of a modern watch despite the retro styling. The crystal is domed “glass box” style to mimic the PlexiGlas of the vint...
Quill & Pad
30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Here Come ‘The Beasts’
While reflecting on the various limited edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores, Alexey Kutkovoy realized something that had escaped him: there are not many ROO versions of the original 'The Beast' design. In fact, there are very few. You can count them on one hand.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Rolex Sky-Dweller in Stainless Steel Rolesor
When Rolex put the Sky-Dweller Caliber 9001 in a Rolesor case in 2017 (“Rolesor” is a Rolex term for stainless steel and gold) and dropped the price down to $14,400 Chris Malburg became a player. And, as he soon discovered, so were a goodly number of other Rolex admirers. Here is why he bought this watch and what happened then.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Classic Omega, a Fun Timex with a Familiar Beagle on the Dial, and a Gorgeous and Rare Piaget Chronograph
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Timex Snoopy Tennis Watch Starting off this week with a fun one, a vintage Timex Snoopy Tennis watch with the original box! Remember these from when we were kids? I sure do! The watch is gold tone with a blue denim-pattern dial and of course Snoopy on the dial. His arm holding the racket along with the tennis ball are printed on a clear disc that rotates as the second hand. It has the original blue denim strap as well as the super cool Snoopy doghouse original plastic box. I mean, this nifty watch isn’t going to pass COSC testing, but just look how cool the whole package is! View auction here Vintage Seiko Sea Lion M88 This vintage Seiko Sea Lion M88 has a unique look that really stands out. The case is square(ish) but contrasted with the white round dial. The case looks unpolished with nice sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The dial is wild, with horizontal lines connecting the raised square steel hour markers. It has a date only window at 3 o’clock along with the classic Seiko dauphine hands. The caseback has a nifty sea lion logo engraved on it too. This is a cool one that should be easy on the watch budget but still be a fun one to wear with plenty of vintag...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited
Following up on the 2021 Verus GMT Chrono, Stowa has updated its Red Dot Design Award winner with a matte black DLC-coated case. It’s still a fresh, contemporary design that’s stripped down to the essentials for a highly legible pilot’s watch that’s true to the brand’s overall Flieger design (like the Flieger Verus 36, for […]
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer
It shouldn’t be too hard to pick three favorites from all those sub-€10k watches out there, right? However, Thomas and Jorg have already cherry-picked some classics away from me. I also wanted to stay away from the other evergreens and come up with a few more original picks. That’s why it actually took me quite […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s Affordable Chronograph Tourbillon in Blue “Panda” Livery
A limited edition available only in Europe, the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon “Blue Panda” is another take on TAG Heuer’s value-minded complication. Retaining the familiar Glassbox case, this has an attractive white-and-blue dial with the flying tourbillon at six. Initial thoughts When TAG Heuer released the Carrera Glassbox in 2023, it was well received as a successful attempt at modernising a classic racing chronograph. Although the Glassbox is clearly vintage inspired, it is still an original design. The Blue Panda builds on the appeal of the Glassbox by making it more complication, adding a tourbillon to the mix. Notably, the Blue Panda is the only current variant of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with contrast-colour registers, which gives more retro vibes. Although the 42 mm case is slightly bigger than the standard Carrera without tourbillon, the short lugs allow it to wear quite well on various wrists. Priced at €25,200 with taxes, the Blue Panda is priced similar to other versions of the model, and remains a decent value proposition. While it is far more expensive than the affordable chronographs that TAG Heuer is known for, it is affordable for this combination of complications. Though the in-house movement is industrially executed, it is high quality and packaged in the attractive Glassbox case. Another species of “Panda” The stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm in thickness, and retains the signature elements of the Carrera Gla...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New MeisterSinger Special ?3 Bright Blue Edition
MeisterSinger has made the single-hand time display its signature design feature, which some might view as limiting creativity. However, this German company has consistently proven otherwise. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has introduced various exciting series that incorporate calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hour displays, and power reserves, all while preserving the brand’s original spirit. Furthermore, MeisterSinger […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Standard Review: An Ultra-Affordable, Versatile Watch Short On Charm
Reviewing the Timex Standard 40. Check out original photography, specs, and insights from an owner along with alternative recommendations.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Coppa D’Oro Delle Dolomiti
Today, I’m looking at a watch that pays tribute to the Coppa d’Oro car race. There are a few alternate hobbies and interests that seem to complement watch collecting. Perhaps none come as close as the fascination with cars. It’s the similarity that they are mechanical objects with the sole original purpose of being useful […] Visit Hands-On With The New Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Coppa D’Oro Delle Dolomiti to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Breathtaking Elegance of the Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone
Master watchmaker Svend Andersen has been a renowned figure on the independent watchmaking scene since 1980. The Danish watchmaker’s ingenious and original approach to complications, including his sophisticated calendar watches and world timers, has captivated collectors and top-tier watch brands for years. To celebrate his 40th anniversary in watchmaking in 2020, Svend Andersen produced a […]
Worn & Wound
A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi
German watchmaker NOMOS Glashütte has just released their latest Ahoi Neomatik 38 collection. Alongside Sky and Sand, we now have the Atlantic colorway. Inspired by the outdoor culture of seaside and island life, the Ahoi Neomatik 38 series combines sporty elements with a distinctive, sophisticated style. Like others in the series, the Atlantic focuses on functionality without compromising on design. For swimming, diving, or sailing, legibility is key and this reference has large, readable numbers in an almost Art Deco font. The deep blue dial against the contrasting indices and hands aren’t just a great design choice, they also help to tell time in a variety of conditions while out at sea. Further to this, the hours and minutes are coated in Super-LumiNova to assist in low-light areas, such as during dives in open waters. The mixture of yellow hour markers, a red seconds hand, blue-black woven strap, and the 38.5mm stainless steel case all show a cohesive design language in the newAtlantic variant. The Atlantic runs on a NOMOS Neomatik caliber DUW 6101 with a 42-hour power reserve. This movement has a quick-set date function, which can be found at 3 o’clock. Given the aquatic inspiration for this watch, NOMOS has designed the case to be water resistant for up to 200 meters (20 atm). Two references of this watch are available – the 518 and 528. The 518 has a stainless steel case back, while the 528 has a sapphire crystal case back. Both versions are available no...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Joker Fiat Lux by Konstantin Chaykin
As an independent and highly talented watch and clockmaker and a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) since 2010, Konstantin Chaykin was already well-known in horological circles. However, his popularity soared with the introduction of his Joker and the Wristmons (Wrist Monsters) series in 2017. The original Joker, followed by releases like […]
WatchAdvice
The Cartier Santos Dumont: Minimalism To The Max? (Hands On)
The Cartier Santos Dumont is a watch beautifully frozen in time – aesthetically and functionally true to the original, and it’s still as relevant as ever in 2024. What We Love Classic and timeless design Thin, elegant, and comfortable on the wrist Movement is smooth and appropriate for a dress piece What We Don’t Wears larger than anticipated (due to my small wrists) The pin buckle is finicky at times and hard to adjust A display case back would be great! Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ah, Cartier: One of the pillars of modern watchmaking as we know it. Even though they are a High Jewellery Maison, their knowledge of horology is storied and epic, and through their achievements, sparked some of the most important innovations in the history of this beautiful art. I’ve known about Cartier and their reputation my whole life, but other than occasionally peering into their boutique and looking through the window, I always thought my opinion of them would never extend further than their occasional appearances in rom-coms, music, and other pop culture. The Cartier Santos Dumont Getting into the watch business gave me a whole new perspective on what I knew about the Parisian brand. Getting into Watch Advice also allowed me to take a massive deep dive into Cartier’s history, which naturally garnered a new respect for them. The Santos was the first ever wristwatch? How crazy is that? I won’t nerd you o...
Worn & Wound
Five Louis Erard’s You Shouldn’t Miss
Best known for its regulator-style watches, the Louis Erard brand has been in continuous production since 1931, despite a change in ownership and relocation in 1992. Still proudly made in Switzerland, it creates original and authentic watches with strong horological content while embodying today’s essential call for affordability. Best known for its regulator-style watches, the Louis Erard brand has been in continuous production since 1931, despite a change in ownership and relocation in 1992. Still proudly made in Switzerland, it creates original and authentic watches with strong horological content while embodying today’s essential call for affordability. The post Five Louis Erard’s You Shouldn’t Miss appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
An Under the Radar Disney Collectable: Bradley Time Division’s 1982 Ode to EPCOT
In 1982, Walt Disney World in Lake Buena Vista, Florida opened its EPCOT Center theme park to the public. Its original concept was to create a real, utopian city based on modern transportation as well as economic and architectural innovations, but after Walt’s death in 1966, the plans were simplified. Instead, EPCOT became EPCOT Center––a theme park honoring the societal modernizations Walt was fascinated with in a more practical (and marketable) manner. To commemorate the park’s opening, Disney and its partners produced various forms of merchandise and collectibles including coins, keychains, mugs, hats, shirts, and, of course, wristwatches. This Bradley EPCOT Center watch exists as both a unique piece of Disneyana and horological history when studying the creation and popularity of Disney-themed wristwatches. Why settle for a Mickey Mouse watch when you can transport your wrist straight back to 1982? A Brief Overview of Disney Watches Disney’s intellectual properties have adorned all types of trinkets, souvenirs, and products since the company’s founding in 1923. Regarding wristwatches, however, Ingersoll in 1933––then a subsidiary of the Waterbury Clock Company (or Timex as they’re known today)––created the first Mickey Mouse timepiece, sparking the seemingly-never-ending popularity of Disney-themed watches among consumers. In 1971, Bradley Time Division––then a subsidiary of Elgin––took over the bulk of production from Ingersoll. Afterwa...
Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Rounding Up Five Watches Under $5,000
From a sporty option from NOMOS Glashütte to a lightweight BVLGARI Chronograph and beyond.
Fratello
Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX
The Seiko SKX is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever. There is a good chance that you, as a Fratello reader, have owned one at some point or still do. In any case, this is true for me. However, the original bracelet of that watch has always been controversial. It is infamously […] Visit Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces a New Casquette in Collaboration with Saint Laurent
We love quartz watches at Worn & Wound. For many of us, they were the first watches we ever wore, and represent a foundation of enthusiasm that has stretched on for years. There are many, many facets to quartz, and if you think of quartz watches simply as “affordable” alternatives to mechanical, you’re missing out on a lot of history, unique design, and special movements that simply aren’t possible with a mechanical caliber. One of my favorite little quartz rabbit holes is the output of traditional, high-end Swiss brands during the earliest days of the technology, leading up into the period often referred to as the “quartz crisis.” It’s fascinating to look back and see how these brands handled such a major shock to a centuries old industry, and the quartz watches produced by the most storied Swiss brands during this period are almost always significant, carrying with them design attributes that effectively distinguish them from traditional mechanical watches. The Girard-Perregaux Casquette is one of my favorite examples of a storied Swiss brand experimenting with quartz at the very beginning. The Casquette first appeared in 1976 and was brought back as the Casquete 2.0 in 2022 in a limited edition that quickly sold out to some degree of fanfare and acclaim. The watch has what is now frequently referred to as a “driver’s style” orientation, with an LED display that displays the time digitally when viewed from the side. In the mid-1970s, this certainly ...
Worn & Wound
ProTek Adds an Automatic Movement to the 1210 Automatic Series
ProTek owner Barry Cohen is not what you would call a novice when it comes to tritium-illuminated timepieces. He pioneered the genre as Luminox’s original owner and founder, the brand that revolutionized tactical-style watches with continuous illumination capabilities. Thirty-five years later, he now leads another tritium-focused brand called ProTek, which manufactures watches for those working in challenging environments. They use only high-quality components that can withstand harsh conditions. ProTek is proud to be approved and recognized as an Official Watch of the United States Marine Corps, a testament to the ruggedness and reliability of their timepieces. These watches are as tough as the service members who wear them, enduring the most adverse environments. If they can endure the challenges of the USMC, you can trust their performance on your wrist. In June 2024, they launched a new automatic version of their popular Official USMC dive watch, available in multiple colors. These watches feature 42mm cases made of carbon composite, a material known for its lightweight and extreme durability. The unidirectional rotating bezel is also made of this material, ensuring the watch’s resilience. The screw-down stainless steel case provides 300 meters of water resistance and features an embossed USMC logo. To maintain this rating, the screw-down crown is equipped with multiple O-ring gaskets. The dial, hands, and bezel pip are equipped with ProTek’s ProGlo tritium illum...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic
A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Airain Type 20 “Up in the Air” with seconde/seconde/
Founded in 1934, Airain was one of the original suppliers of the iconic Type 20 chronograph issued to French military pilots in the 1950s and 60s. The brand was dormant until its resurrection in 2020 by Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick, who also spearheaded the 2014 relaunch of Lebois & Co, which brought back the […]
Worn & Wound
Introducing Bruno Söhnle to the Windup Watch Shop
Over 175 years ago, Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the cornerstone of watchmaking in the small Saxon town of Glashütte. After a 45-year hiatus under the East German socialist regime, his great-grandson kickstarted the revival of Glashütte’s fine watchmaking industry. Over 30 years later, several other brands, including Bruno Söhnle, joined them. Over 175 years ago, Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the cornerstone of watchmaking in the small Saxon town of Glashütte. After a 45-year hiatus under the East German socialist regime, his great-grandson kickstarted the revival of Glashütte’s fine watchmaking industry. Over 30 years later, several other brands, including Bruno Söhnle, joined them. The post Introducing Bruno Söhnle to the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition
Yema’s latest release, the Skin Diver Slim CMM.20, celebrates the classic ’60s skin diver aesthetic in style. As a modern-day remake of the original Yema Skin Diver from 1963, the watch takes us back to the early days of the French brand. With the addition of a proprietary micro-rotor movement, we get the best of […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Vintage Zodiac in Great Condition, a Pair of Cool Bulovas, and a Classic Seiko Chronograph
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Unbranded Yachtingraf Vintage Chronograph First up this week is this killer vintage unbranded version of a Yema Yachtingraf chronograph. The original Yema is a cult classic and highly sought after. This no-name example may lack a name brand, but it has all the style of the original. Including the unique big-eye sub-dial look with the red white and blue elapsed minute dial as well as a date window at 6 o’clock. The steel case looks to have been polished but still looks nice, and the black count-down bezel is in great shape. Seller states the hands were professionally relumed. The watch is powered by a Valjoux 7734 manual wind movement that the seller states has been serviced and is working perfectly. View auction here Seiko “Pogue” 6139-6002 Automatic Chronograph And here we have a true classic, a vintage Seiko 6139-6002 yellow dial “Pogue” chronograph. Seiko put out a multitude of 6139 variations, but this is definitely the most recognizable with the bright yellow dial, the same as Col. Pogue wore on his journey to Skylab. This example is super clean, and looks to be original to my eye. The dial and hands are clean and devoid of any black funk on the lume, and the “Pep...
SJX Watches
The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment
Ressence has gently tweaked its flagship model to create the Type 5 L. Already unconventional in its original form, the new Type 5 is similar in style and function to the original but with a fully luminous dial that maximises legibility in the dark. As is tradition for the brand’s higher-end offerings, the Type 5 L features an oil-filled case that enhances visibility of the dial by eliminating a common problem underwater: refraction. Initial thoughts Dive watches rarely deviate from orthodoxy, exemplified by the Rolex Submariner. But then there is Ressence, which is unorthodox across all its watches, but in a sensible and thoughtful manner. The Type 5 L underwater The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch, but looks nothing like a typical dive watch. Even though the planetary sub-dials take some getting used to, legibility is good once you’re familiar with the dial layout. And the addition of lume enhances visibility, making this a logical evolution of the model. As is often the case with most of the brand’s top-end offerings, the only downside is the price of CHF34,500. Granted, the Type 5 L is unique in construction and form, and also executed to a high level of quality – but it is still pricey. The entire dial of the timepiece is luminous for legibility in dim light Oil-filled dial In terms of dimensions and materials, the Type 5 L is identical to its less luminous counterpart. The case is titanium, measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm high....