Hodinkee
Introducing: Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Série Atelier VII
A new and more contemporary take on the brand's very first model.
Results for Windup Watch Fair New York
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review
London-based watchmaker Christopher Ward has achieved the impossible in its relatively short number of years in the watch game, catapulting from if you know, you-know microbrand to one of the most continuously successful indie watch brands on the market. Its founding principles remain largely unchanged, though its scale has grown in the 24 years since its founding: make high-quality watches while cutting what could be called the luxury tax in the industry with a direct-to-consumer model. But there is one distinct product that put the brand on the map more than any other, and that was the introduction of its own chiming watch at an unheard-of price point, the Christopher Ward Bel Canto. As you might have already guessed by the article title, today, we’re taking a microscopic view of the C1 Bel Canto, exploring what has made the watch such a crowd-favorite, and how it holds up today, four years after its initial release. Christopher Ward Bel Canto History As always, let us begin our horological journey with a history primer on Christopher Ward’s pathway to contemporary success. Luckily for you (and your dear writer), the brand doesn’t have as sweeping a history as many of the centuries-old watchmakers out there, so we can really dive into the microscopic view here. Christopher Ward, whom I would bestow the title of reigning King of Indie Watch Brands, has one of the scrappiest origin stories in the watch world. Founded in 2004 by the trio of Mike France, Peter Ellis,...
Fratello
CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker
Unless you have lived under a rock for four years, you have probably seen and read about the CIGA Design Blue Planet. The distinctive take on a modern watch garnered excitement from watch fans worldwide and won a GPHG award in 2021. We have seen multiple versions of CIGA Design’s remarkable titanium and stainless steel […] Visit CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
25 Of The Best Red Dial Watches
More so than almost any other color option, a watch with a red dial begs to be noticed - whether the watch is large or small, simple or complicated, soberly matte or luxuriously shiny in its choice of case material. It’s not hard to see why: crimson and scarlet tones have long symbolized heat, sensuality, and even hints of temptation and danger. Best of all, for anyone inclined to take the plunge into red-dial watches, there are more options these days than ever, in just about every price range and style. Here we showcase 25 watches with red dials, some of which you can buy new and some which might require a little hunting on the secondary market. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $430, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its much larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, mostly offers simple three-handed options but also a handful of “quiet” complications, like the intriguing designed Bambino Day-Date, here in a red-dialed execution. The Roman hour numerals and railway minute track surround a pair of asymmetrically balanced subdials, a smaller one at 10 o’clock for the day of the week and a larger one at 5 o’c...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Defy Chronograph USM (Hands-On And Live Pics)
Zenith teams with celebrated Swiss furniture maker USM with a colorful El Primero in the original Defy case for the first time and custom USM watch storage.
Monochrome
First Look - The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, A 1960s Design Icon Reimagined
The year 1969 is etched in Zenith’s history as the birth of El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre. It was also the debut year of the Defy, a rugged sports watch nicknamed the “vault” for its robust construction and avant-garde angular design. Over the past few years, Zenith has revisited these late-1960s […]
Time+Tide
Dennison doubles down with the ALD Dual Time
Dennison drops a two-for-one, dropping two movements into a single ALD case to create a very retro travel watch.The post Dennison doubles down with the ALD Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Henry Graves Jr. - The Banker Who Commissioned Complex and Innovative Watches
Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) was a prominent American banker and art collector, most famous for his passion for collecting timepieces. He is best known for commissioning some of the most complex and innovative watches ever made, including the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication, considered one of the most significant and expensive timepieces in horological history. Graves was born on the 11th of March 1868 in Orange, New Jersey, in the United States of America. The Graves family was a prominent and wealthy banking family. His father, Henry Graves Sr. (1838–1906), was a co-founder and partner in the Maxwell & Graves banking firm. They engaged in the railroad and financial services industries and Henry Graves, Jr. continued the family legacy of financial services expertise as an investment banker. The company operates today under the name M&G; Solutions which was founded by the great-great-grandson of Henry Graves Jr. They use an image of the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication in their logo signifying the ‘&’ symbol paying tribute to his relative’s interest in watches (below). Graves was known primarily for his legendary watch collection which stemmed from his status as a wealthy financier who appreciated fine craftsmanship and luxury items. He was also an avid collector of art, reflecting his refined taste, acquiring items of significant cultural and historical value. Henry Graves Jr.’s interest in watches stemmed from his status as a weal...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Armin Strom × Revolution Dual Time GMT Resonance “Tremblage”
Possibly the most practical complication for travellers, a GMT watch allows you to consult the time in two distinct time zones at a glance. Interpreted by countless brands, Armin Strom’s take on the GMT goes one step further by incorporating the phenomenon of resonance onboard its Dual Time GMT Resonance editions. Offering two independent time […]
SJX Watches
Singer Reimagined Minds its Manners with the Caballero
Best known for its Agenhor-powered chronographs, Singer Reimagined has just released its first time-only watch, the Caballero. Inside is the Calibre-4 Solotempo representing another first, being the brand’s first proprietary movement. With four barrels powering the Caballero for six days, the Calibre-4’s distinctive architecture can be discerned from the front thanks to jewel portholes in the dial. Spanish for “gentleman”, the Caballero is available in three colourways; the piano black and empire green colours are familiar from the Heritage Collection chronographs, but the petrol blue colour is new for the brand. Though not strictly a limited edition, the watches will be rare enough, assembled in small quantities at the brand’s atelier in central Geneva. Initial thoughts There tends to be a lot of crossover between the worlds of horology and high-end cars. Fans of the latter are no-doubt familiar with Singer Vehicle Design, which has made a name for itself restoring and modifying vintage Porsche 911s – specifically the 964 of the early 1990s – elevating the model to a standard that would have been impractical in its own time. The watchmaking arm, which operates as an independent sister company, has been quietly making interesting watches since 2017, largely focused on vintage motorsport themes. For the Caballero, this inspiration is conveyed most prominently by the golden needle hub that covers up the base of the hand stack, similar to those used by vintage a...
SJX Watches
Berneron Jumps Forward with the Quantième Annuel
One of the headline releases from Geneva Watch Days is, without question, the Berneron Quantième Annuel, a symmetrical annual calendar that brings the brand’s vision into sharper focus. Expensively made and cleverly designed inside and out, the Quantième Annuel is a showcase for founder Sylvain Berneron’s attention to detail. A limited run of 480 pieces in platinum, with production spaced evenly over the next decade, the Quantième Annuel is available in two dial configurations; whether the buyer opts for lacquered silver or piano black, the dial itself, along with much of the movement, is crafted from 18k gold. Initial thoughts I’ve written effusively about user-friendly complications in the past so it should come as no surprise that I like the Quantième Annuel’s legible display and intuitive interface. Visually, it’s a world apart from the oozy Mirage, but it exhibits a similar degree of intellectual sophistication and attention to detail. A jumping hour watch with an instantaneous annual calendar, the Quantième Annuel is distinguished by its oversized windows for the hour, day, and month, with a sector-style dial for the minutes and a concentric retrograde date display. The running seconds dial at six o’clock contains the fourth jumping window for the day/night indicator; a useful addition for any calendar watch. The watch is designed for easy legibility, with the time read top-to-bottom and the date read left-to-right. The sector dial for the minute han...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Earthen Debuts With Three Ceramic Case Field Watches Priced At Under A Grand
New Hong Kong-based brand serves up design-forward, hearty, ceramic-cased watches for Alpine outings.
Fratello
Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire - A Transparent Take On The Ultra-Thin Tourbillon
Sapphire-cased watches have crept up on me lately. I used to think of them as fragile showpieces, destined for safes rather than wrists, but something has shifted. It probably started with the ArtyA Luminity Wavy collection, which made me stop and think about how sapphire can do more than just look flashy. Now, with Bianchet’s […] Visit Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire - A Transparent Take On The Ultra-Thin Tourbillon to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Apiar Gen1.0 With A Case 3D Printed From Metal Powder
These days, 3D printing is a well-established technique in manufacturing for R&D; divisions. I’ll never forget visiting the Triumph factory in Hinckley and seeing how future designs are rendered digitally, then printed into 3D forms. These objects provide a hasty method of producing new bike parts and testing structures instead of forging components in more […] Visit Introducing: The Apiar Gen1.0 With A Case 3D Printed From Metal Powder to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Chronomat: The Complete Guide
The Breitling Chronomat traces its most emblematic design elements back to the relatively recent year of 1984, but the model’s roots reach much further back, to the dawn of Breitling’s role as a leading innovator of watches for pilots. On the way to becoming one of the watch world’s iconic chronograph wristwatches, the Chronomat has also been the host model for some of the most significant innovations in movement technology. Today, it remains one of Breitling’s flagship models, with an array of sizes, materials, colorways, and complications for men and ladies alike. Here is the story of the Breitling Chronomat, from its groundbreaking origins to its 21st Century revival. The Original Chronomat (1941) Breitling’s long and storied history in the arena of aviation begins in 1938, shortly before the start of World War II, with the founding of the Huit Aviation Department by third-generation company chairman Willy Breitling. Taking its numerical name “huit” from the eight-day power reserve offered by Breitling’s watches and clocks - an innovation pioneered by Willy’s grandfather Léon Breitling - the Huit Aviation Department was devoted to making the most precise and robust onboard timekeepers for the cockpits of military planes. Two years later, Breitling unveiled a world’s-first invention destined to make a historical impact on both watchmaking and piloting: the first timepiece equipped with a logarithmic scale on its rotating bezel that could be u...
Worn & Wound
Driving Design: European Cars and a Family Heirloom Seamaster
Ansel Iisaka is an industrial designer, watch lover, and European car enthusiast. Laid back with a thick beard, and often dressed in 1970s-esque attire, Iisaka doesn’t seem like your average mechanic, nor does he reveal much about his deep knowledge of watches. When asked about his propensity for both, he admits that growing up among the enthusiast cars that his father collected, drove hard, and cycled through may have caused him to feel “desensitized to rare or exotic cars.” Instead, he focused on what he calls, “really well-made, practical cars that I could use every day.” The first of these workhorse vehicles? A Volvo 240, one of the most iconic and reliable European cars ever built. Despite earning ASE certification in automotive service while still in high school, Iisaka chose to pursue the pen-and-paper side of his passion for mechanical artistry, and after completing a degree in industrial design, he found himself drafting concepts for several microbrand watch companies-an area he’d never considered before. While Iisaka states that he can’t reveal those projects due to contractual obligations, he has had a hand in designing field watches and vintage skin divers for a well-known microbrand. “I love all well-built mechanical things, especially those that were designed for longevity and repairability,” he explains. That appreciation for watches wasn’t immediate, though. It took a very special timepiece, handed down to him from his grandfather ...
Time+Tide
Breaking a sweat in Bangkok with Mido
Jamie joined Mido in Thailand's bustling capital this week for the launch of the new Multifort TV Chronograph.The post Breaking a sweat in Bangkok with Mido appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko vs. Citizen: Comparing the Icons of Japanese Watchmaking
Seiko and Citizen are the two undisputed titans among Japanese watch brands, known and admired worldwide for their technical excellence, design acumen, and legendary price-to-value ratio, not to mention the role that both brands have played in the technological and cultural evolution of watchmaking in general. And while these world-renowned companies have been fierce competitors from the beginning, they have a lot in common as well. Here we present a side-by-side comparison of Seiko vs. Citizen, starting with their earliest days and concluding with an overview of what each brand is doing today. Seiko vs. Citizen: Origins of Two Japanese Watch Pioneers With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene, but one would be mistaken. The company today known as Citizen was founded in 1918 by Kamakechi Yamazaki as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodolphe Schmid, in 1930 to become Citizen. Joining the expertise of Shokosha’s Japanese watchm...
Worn & Wound
Review: the Héron Mirabel GMT
I think we can all agree that watch enthusiasm is often intertwined with a bit of cosplaying. James Bond-esque fantasies of tackling adventures in go-anywhere-do-anything watches have a powerful way of convincing office-dwelling collectors such as myself that over-engineered specs are a necessity. While actual practical need for secret agent-level robustness may be minimal for most collectors (I haven’t engaged in hand to hand combat or an aquatic chase all week), the pervasiveness of often repetitive feeling GADA designs can make avoiding rugged tool watches feel like a chore. This is especially true in the microbrand arena where many brands have made the dive watch their bread and butter and seemingly the format for all other complications, including GMTs. While I’m not here to throw shade (OK, maybe just a little) at the ubiquitous and often unimaginative tool watches that clearly reign supreme for many brands and collectors alike, I would be lying if I said the recent prevalence of dress watches in my Instagram feed hasn’t provided some much welcome variety. But even in this evolving landscape as dressier designs are having a moment, as I scroll through my curated collection of microbrand inspired hashtags, most #dresswatches from small independent brands are notably void of complications beyond a date window. Canadian microbrand Héron (known for their modern approach to neo-vintage inspired tool watches since 2021) seems to have recognized this gap between for...
Fratello
Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL
If last year’s 32-strong collection of Chronomat B01 42s in NFL team colors was the rookie season, this year is the sophomore breakout for Breitling. The Swiss watchmaker has announced that it is becoming the popular sport league’s inaugural timepiece partner, along with the release of new watches to the NFL collection. What can we […] Visit Breitling Lands A Touchdown By Becoming The Official Timepiece Partner Of The NFL to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Business News: Christopher Ward To Roll Back U.S. Tariff Price Hit By 29% With Corporate Structure Shift
Top U.K. watch brand shifts distribution to existing U.S. entity to cut prices for U.S. customers.
Worn & Wound
Albishorn Introduces the Marinagraph, a Unique Regatta Timer
Albishorn has accomplished quite a bit in its first year. It was around this time in 2024 that we were introduced to the brand through a collaboration with Wiiliam Massena. The Maxigraph introduced the tantalizing concept of the brand in an easily digestible way: these would be “imaginary vintage” watches inspired by alternate versions of watch history. It’s a clever spin on the well understood and perhaps overused idea of the “vintage inspired” watch that allows for a great deal more creativity and whimsy. Zach Weiss recently reviewed the Albishorn Type 10 and was impressed with both the execution and concept behind the piece. The new Marinagraph, available in two versions, is the next iteration of the Albishorn project. On its surface, this is a chronograph inspired by the classic regatta timer. And, in some ways, it’s exactly that. But of course Albishorn has crafted a much more interesting story behind the Marinagraph, which is based on telling the “untold chapter in the evolution of the skin diver chronograph.” Albishorn says that the Marinagraph story starts with the 1958 running of the America’s Cup, the sailing competition that was first contested in 1851. The 1958 race was the first one after a period of dormancy, and introduced 12-Meter class yachts to the competition, which represented a significant advancement in technology to the sport, carrying sailing into a new, modern era. The Marinagraph is a watch that might have accompanied the cre...
Fratello
Introducing: The M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” Water, Nature, And Sun - A Collaboration With Artist Yinka Ilori
Block September 2nd if you want to have a chance to wear a relatively affordable MB&F; collaboration watch on your wrist. On that day, at 2:00 PM CEST, the raffle for the M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” in three colorways will start. These M.A.D.Editions are the result of a collaboration with British-Nigerian artist and designer Yinka […] Visit Introducing: The M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” Water, Nature, And Sun - A Collaboration With Artist Yinka Ilori to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This $239 Timex Feels Like a Time Machine to the ’70s
Timex revives its quirky 1970s mystery dial with a new gold-tone Q Enigma. Same retro specs, fresh vintage vibes-all for $239.
Fratello
Introducing: The Old Soul By Vianney Halter And Massena Lab
Over the past few years, we have seen Massena Lab team up with several interesting brands. For this new creation, William Massena’s collaboration laboratory joined forces with Vianney Halter to produce the Old Soul. This timepiece blends the science fiction of steampunk with watchmaking references from the early 1900s. Additionally, it houses a vintage Minerva […] Visit Introducing: The Old Soul By Vianney Halter And Massena Lab to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: M.A.D.Editions x Yinka Ilori M.A.D.1S 'Grow Your Dreams' Limited Edition
The fan-favorite M.A.D.1S returns in a collaboration with a London-based, British-Nigerian multi-disciplinary artist and designer for a colorful new take on last year's slim release.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Piaget Altiplano 910P and Ultimate Concept Tourbillon in Khaki Green
As one of the main competitors in the battle for the thinnest watches, Piaget has had quite a few records on its hands, using the emblematic Altiplano watch collection as the vessel to deliver record-thin models. The Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) made some noise by becoming the thinnest mechanical watch ever in 2016, and the […]
Time+Tide
The MING 57.04 Iris brings technicolour to the wrist in a tasteful way
With a colour-shifting dial and monopusher chrono movement designed specifically for this watch, there is a lot to get into here.The post The MING 57.04 Iris brings technicolour to the wrist in a tasteful way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Win a Patek Philippe Aquanaut (or Cartier Baignoire) while supporting hospitalized kids!
Toys for Hospitalized Children is holding its 2025 charity luxury watch raffle, with a Patek and Cartier up for grabs.The post Win a Patek Philippe Aquanaut (or Cartier Baignoire) while supporting hospitalized kids! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition In Burgundy
A rattrapante, split-second, or double chronograph is not something you see every day. Such a chronograph, capable of measuring intermediate times without interrupting the ongoing measurement of a longer elapsed time, is a seriously complicated watch. For many, including me, the double chronograph is one of the most fascinating complications the world of Haute Horlogerie […] Visit Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition In Burgundy to read the full article.