Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Artist Wes Lang's Monthly Watch Column In GQ
It's not often I come across someone with this much width of knowledge about watches ... that isn't a watchmaker.
Results for Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève)
23,211 articles · 2,577 videos found · page 786 of 860
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Introducing the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5
Apple’s introduction of its latest watch includes the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, essentially the smartwatch plus an Hermes leather strap and watch faces exclusive to the Hermes edition. Amongst other incremental improvements, the new Apple Watch has an “always-on” face that dims when you turn away, instead of going dark as on the previous generation of the watch – and it’s achieved without comprising the 18-hour battery life. And the standard Series 5 is also available in a variety of case materials, including the usual steel or aluminium, as well as ceramic for the more upscale versions. For the first time, brushed titanium is also a case option. The Single Tour strap with the Della Cavalleria motif on the lower half of the strap The luxury of Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, on the other hand, is dictated only in two case styles: Space Black and polished steel, each in either 40mm or 44mm sizes. The 40mm cases are available either with a standard length, “Single Tour” strap, or an extra-long “Double Tour” strap. Both styles of straps are a combination of colours – a solid shade and a printed motif taken from the Hermes “Della Cavalleria” scarf. Double Tour The Space Black is actually a steel with a black coating, and it’s matched with a sleek, all-black dial and matte black strap for a sleek look that is very much unlike the usual smartwatch. Price and availability The Apple Watch Hermès Series 5 with Single Tour strap is priced at ...
SJX Watches
Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age
Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The emerald beauty of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer with green dial
Emerging from the safety of black, blue and white dial sport watches, the radiant TAG Heuer Aquaracer in emerald green marks an adventurous step forward for the line-up. Yet for a brand that is no stranger to radical innovation (Mikrotimer Flying 1000, anyone?), it’s surprising that it took them this long to come out with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The emerald beauty of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer with green dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Apple Watch Series 5 and the 3 upgrades that matter
It’s that time of year again. Apple has unveiled their latest and greatest Watch (as well as some pretty serious new iPhones), which has the unsurprising name of Apple Watch Series 5. And there’s always a lot to unpack with the world’s most popular watch (yeah, I went there). There are small but significant advances, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Apple Watch Series 5 and the 3 upgrades that matter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 56: Watch Collection Fantasy Draft 2019
Some killer watches and some healthy competition – and you get to vote on the winner!
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hour Glass celebrates its 40th with an awesome TAG Heuer Monaco LE
A few months ago we introduced you to the first in a series of limited edition watches made to celebrate The Hour Glass’s 40th anniversary. Well, we’ve just had a look at the latest in the series, which takes the form of a TAG Heuer Monaco. Now, if this were any other watch it would … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hour Glass celebrates its 40th with an awesome TAG Heuer Monaco LE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Raketa Introduces the Copernicus, the Soviet Space Watch Remake
Produced in the 1980s, the Raketa Kopernik was a nod to the Soviet Union’s space exploration, a Soviet Moon watch of sorts. The hour hand took the form of a golden disc, representing the Sun, while the minute hand was the Moon, taking the form of a large ring. Once an hour the Sun and Moon hands would overlap for an eclipse on the wrist. Named after Nicolaus Copernicus, the Kopernik was imaginatively designed but a typical Soviet-era timepiece in terms of quality. Now Raketa has recreated the original design as the Copernicus wristwatch, which is still made in Russia but boasting upgraded fit and finish. The rocket factory Raketa is Russian for “rocket”, and it is a brand of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in St Petersburg. Founded in 1721 as a stoneware manufacturer, the factory has produced watches since the second world war. Now run by its owners – an Englishman and a Frenchman – Raketa produces has a vertically integrated factory as well as an online store. The Raketa Copernicus has an abstract dial with the Sun and Moon hands against an off-centred sphere that represents the Earth. And it has a graduated colour that goes from dark blue to black, evoking the darkness of outer space. The Copernicus has a steel case – either black-coated or polished – that’s 40.5mm in diameter and a thick 12mm high. It’s fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and mineral glass on the back. Inside is the cal. 2615 automatic movement that is derived from a Sovie...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide
I don’t know about you, but I find navigating Casio’s iconic and uber-tough G-Shock family a tricky process. It’s a reference number dominated space which, to the outsider, is every bit as confusing as the worlds of vintage Rolex or Patek. Adding to the complexity is the sheer profusion of models. Limited editions, collaborations and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution Watch Podcast Ep. 12: Maximilian Büsser
On this episode of the Revolution Watch Podcast, we speak to Maximilian Büsser, the founder and creative genius behind MB&F;.
Time+Tide
A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date
Editor’s note: The Marine is Breguet’s star of the show at the moment, with a profusion of new models in the house - including some chic titanium options - but we can’t help but have a soft spot for this elegant beast, the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date. What a looker … We’re willing to … ContinuedThe post A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon
Most of Richard Mille’s recent – and bestselling – watches have mainly been ultra-light and extremely technical in terms of materials and styling. The new RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon is different. Instead it harks back to an earlier era of Richard Mille from not too long ago, when decorative techniques were employed to create unusually intricate watches like the Boucheron tourbillon. Originally unveiled in 2012, the RM 57-01 was initially launched as the “Jackie Chan” edition, designed in collaboration with the Hong Kong action star and bearing a miniature dragon sculpture on the movement. Subsequent iterations included the RM 57-02 where the dragon was replaced by a falcon, a motif popular in the Gulf. Available only in Asia, the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon is essentially a variant of the RM 57-01 the dragon executed in sapphire crystal and gold, the first time Richard Mille has created a sculpture in that material. The sapphire dragon is anchored to the movement ring with screws Produced by Olivier Vaucher, a micro-decoration specialist in Geneva that serves brands including Roger Dubuis, Van Cleef & Arpels and Zenith, the sapphire body of the dragon is first milled from a block of sapphire, and then laser engraved to create its detail. Then the engraving is finished and polished by hand. The sapphire pieces are then joined to solid red gold components that make up the dragon’s head, tail, limbs and spine. To highlight the dragon’s tongu...
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Odell Beckham Junior Wears Richard Mille In First Regular Season Game With Cleveland Browns
Wearing a watch to practice was one thing; a game is quite another.
Time+Tide
That time we celebrated the Omega Speedmaster in Houston, Texas
Editor’s note: We, along with the rest of the world, have been on a pretty heavy space-nostalgia trip of late. A trip that naturally led us back to Andrew’s 2015 trip with Omega, to the Space Centre in Houston, a place that was, in many ways, ground zero for the mythos that surrounds the Speedy. … ContinuedThe post That time we celebrated the Omega Speedmaster in Houston, Texas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches
These days we’re pretty down with the tie-in between the watch industry and motorsports. Because while the association, which had its golden days in the age of Heuer et al, was originally born from necessity, nowadays its main function has to do with the marketing department. And while many brands have history in the area, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: A 40-year-old tale of cars and watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Short takes: TUDOR Black Bay Chrono Steel and Gold
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 and the launch of reference 7922. The basic design with a bezel, triple link bracelet and screw-down crown laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch.
Time+Tide
David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best
Editor’s note: A little while back, old mate Becks did some promo videos with his watch brand of choice – Tudor. Turns out that Mr Beckham isn’t one to baby his timepieces, something we fully endorse. Kick on, Becks. Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two … ContinuedThe post David Beckham’s Tudors prove that old, messed up watches are the best appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
3 No-Nonsense GMT Watches From Blancpain, Montblanc, And Porsche Design That Will Keep You Traveling In Style
For watch aficionados, GMT may as well mean “grand, magnificent, and timeless” for it offers the convenience of indicating two time zones on one dial. While today we can see all 36 time zones from every mobile phone, that doesn’t diminish the joy of a dual time zone timepiece. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three no-nonsense GMT watches that each represent the sophistication of second time zone indications in their very own way. Enjoy their classic travel-time designs pared down to the essential!
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Commissioning a Custom Andreas Strehler Wristwatch
I am a collector of world time and time zone watches, and own several from mainstream brands. I had long had my own ideas of an ideal travel watch, and this is the tale of how one came to be. A world time watch should simultaneously show at least 24 time zones on the dial. There are principally three dial types that can do this: first is a map of the Earth with time zones marked out; second is a disc with 24 reference time zones indicated by city names; third is a 24 hour ring in conjunction with a ring of reference time zones, widely known as the Cottier world time, after Swiss watchmaker Louis Cottier who built the first wristwatch with the mechanism. Top row, from left: Lottermann & Söhne Weltzeituhr 1, Tissot Heritage Navigator, Patek Philippe ref. 5230G Bottom row: Dubey & Schaldenbrand Weltzeit, Junkers 6892-5 Serie Worldtimer, Jean-Mairet & Gillman Sport. Images – respective brands The first two variants use the entire dial to display world time, leaving no room for additional complications. The Cottier-system can as well dominate the design, with only the centre of the dial available for decorations or additional indications, making it difficult to embellish the dial with motifs relating to a specific brand. Reducing the displays can create a more interesting dial layout, but this results in microscopic indicators that are hardly readable. For this reason, I now prefer time zone watches with only one additional zone time shown on a 24-hour scale, often labelled ...
Time+Tide
Full metal Jaquet Droz – the Astrale Grande Heure Minute
Editor’s note: Jaquet Droz is a brand with an increasing presence on our fair shores. And while they’re best known for their watches that exhibit a decent amount of both pomp and circumstance, there’s a lot to be said for their simpler offerings, which are still distinctive as all get-out. Don’t believe us? Check out … ContinuedThe post Full metal Jaquet Droz – the Astrale Grande Heure Minute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Slender and springy – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003
Editor’s note: There’s something in the air at Grand Seiko. The brand is busting out new designs left, right and centre. It’s an exciting time to be a fan of Japan’s premier watchmaker. Case in point, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 … Grand Seiko has just announced its latest releases at Basel 2019 … ContinuedThe post Slender and springy – the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”
With one watch unveiled each month since the start of the year, the A. Lange & Söhne “25th Anniversary” series is coming to a completion. The ninth watch has just been announced – the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase. Of the 10 piece anniversary set, this is arguably the most esoteric and least known Lange 1, being an elegantly conceived complication inside a case that was originally devised as a smaller men’s watch, but is now a ladies’ watch. Measuring a compact 36.8mm in width, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was first unveiled in 2009 – seven years after the launch of the full-size, 38.5mm Lange 1 Moon Phase. Subsequently in 2017, it evolved to incorporate a new caliber based on the second-generation Lange 1 movement. Though the original Little Lange 1 was introduced as a watch for men in the late 1990s, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was a ladies’ watch from the get-go and decorated as such, with mother-of-pearl dials, diamond bezels and most recently a guilloche dial. But with the subdued anniversary colours of blue and silver, the latest Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the first instance where it could be for men wanting a smaller watch. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and printed blue markings. As with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “25thAnniversary” unveiled earlier in the year, the white-gold lunar disc in the seconds sub-dial is hand-engraved with stars that vary in size and shape, creating a detailed depiction of the ni...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the auction business looks like in the Instagram age
The other day, Phillips announced Phillips PERPETUAL, an always-on showroom of curated horological goodness. Because while blockbuster sales of celebrity pieces have a place, the opportunity for mass volume sales and Phillips, along with the other major auction players is jumping at it. For an in-depth look at the ever-changing business of selling very fine … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the auction business looks like in the Instagram age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic
In the field of watch design there’s a lot to be said for restraint. Not every dial needs to be flashy, nor every case overwrought. Sometimes, all you need - all you want even - is a watch that looks good (no matter what), and can do anything, or at least anything most normal people … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Somebody at the logistics company had stolen my watch” – or how Kelvin was reunited with his Blancpain
Generally speaking, watch collectors fear three things: brick walls, unforeseen service costs, and the vagaries of international shipping. I’m not sure about points one and two, but Kelvin has certainly come up against the whims of global logistics conglomerates. But, before you get too stressed out, it’s OK – he won! Or got very lucky, … ContinuedThe post “Somebody at the logistics company had stolen my watch” – or how Kelvin was reunited with his Blancpain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46
One of the malaises sweeping the Swiss watch industry is, in my oh-so-humble opinion, that of homogeneity. From a distance, the world from the wrist down looks remarkably similar: round, black-dialled steel sports cases in a style that sits somewhere on a spectrum between vaguely retro to full-blown reissue. I’m well aware that this isn’t … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59
It’s fair to say at this point of 2019 that the CODE 11.59 collection from Audemars Piguet has been the most widely panned watch release of the year, if not recent years. It was in some ways a perfect storm of critical disapproval, poor PR and a pack mentality that got pretty nasty. But pictures … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This guy has zero regrets buying the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2”
The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Enamel Spring Drive
Presage has been something of a rising star in the Seiko firmament – a classically inspired, dressy collection that has proven to have broad appeal. These two new watches see the Seiko Presage powered by that most Seiko of technologies - the popular and silky smooth Spring Drive technology. Already the pairing of Presage and precision … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Enamel Spring Drive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made
Much to the chagrin of watch brand marketing departments, the list of timepieces of genuine historical significance is pretty small. Actual moon watches, the Breguet commissioned with Marie Antoinette in mind, and, of course, the works of John Harrison. Even if you’re not an aficionado of 18th century horological science (and TBH we don’t hold … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.