Hodinkee
Introducing: An Iron-Ore Inspired PanoLunarTourbillon From Glashütte Original
A new dial color to commemorate the brand's new dial-making facility in the famed German town for watchmaking.
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Hodinkee
A new dial color to commemorate the brand's new dial-making facility in the famed German town for watchmaking.
Time+Tide
GO celebrates a milestone for German watchmaking (plus its new dial manufacture) with a heavy hitting flying tourbillon.The post Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a stunning platinum PanoLunarTourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas has been a major pillar of the Swiss maison’s collection since its high-profile revamp in 2016, but its roots stretch back much further, drawing elements of its distinctive design from the mechanical-watch revival of the late 1990s, the embryonic sport-luxury era of the 1970s, and even as far back as 1880, the origin of Vacheron’s Maltese Cross emblem. One of the oldest continuously operating watch manufacturers on the planet, Vacheron Constantin laid its foundation in 1755, more than a decade before the United States, eventually one of its most important markets, was even a country. Established as a watchmaking workshop by 24-year-old watchmaker Jean-Marc Vacheron, the company took on its current name when the founder’s grandson, Jacques-Barthemi Vacheron, partnered with businessman Francois Constantin. Over its first two centuries-plus in existence, Vacheron Constantin gained renown as an innovator of horological complications and a pioneer in design, as well as a watchmaker to royalty, including Egypt’s King Fuad I, who famously commissioned one of the world’s most complicated pocket watches (and also, for a time, the most expensive watch in the world sold at auction). The OG of Overseas: Vacheron Constantin 222 Historiques Revival 222 in gold In 1977, Vacheron Constantin commemorated its 220th anniversary of watchmaking with a boldly different and now highly collectible timepiece that helped lay the foundation for what we ...
Fratello
The name might ring a bell, but it’s not what you think. Bedat and Beda’a are not the same. Bedat & Co is a Genevan watch brand “For Women of Character.” Beda’a is a London-based brand with Qatari roots, creating Swiss-made watches. Hader Al Suwaidi started his brand in 2016 to show that the Middle East […] Visit Hands-On With The Beda’a Eclipse II: A Star-Lit Celestial Evolution That’s Happening This Summer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Understanding how your watch will age can be an important step in knowing how to look after it for years to come.The post Why some metals are better than others: a reactivity guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
If you still have no clue what to do and what to wear during the summer break, here’s Fratello’s watch-inclusive top travel tip to the rescue. Why don’t you travel to Lisbon, the beautiful old capital of Portugal? And once you’re there, why not pick up one of the MeisterSinger × Ferreira Marques Edition Elétrico […] Visit Introducing: MeisterSinger × Ferreira Marques Edition Elétrico 28 - A Tribute To Lisbon’s Famous Yellow Tram And The Perfect Holiday Souvenir to read the full article.
Time+Tide
What goes into making a team watch for a Formula 1 team? Chris Grainger-Herr and Andrew McUtchen discuss.The post In part 2 of our IWC & Formula 1 mini series, Andrew & Chris talk F1 team watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chronograph isn’t your normal sports watch. It’s unapologetically bold, has striking wrist presence and ultimately, fun! What We Love The skeletonised dial looks great The look of the polished titanium gives it a lot of wrist presence Has the DNA of the original Classic Fusion Original, which is the essence of Hublot What We Don’t The clasp design could worry some wrists 45mm will be large for some The power reserve is on the smaller side compared to others on the market today Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 It doesn’t get too much more Hublot than the Classic Fusion collection, well, at least from a brand DNA perspective. The Classic Fusion is really where it all kicked off for the brand back in 1980 when Carlo Crocco had the crazy idea of putting rubber and precious metal together on a sports watch. Although it wasn’t called the Classic Fusion back then, that came later under the leadership of Jean Claude-Biver. The design was also something new and daring. Hublot is French for “Porthole” as as such, the design mimiced this with the bezel design and “H” shaped screws that are found on the case. From those beginnings back in 1980, the brand has grown immensely to what we know today. Hublot is a brand that is not afraid of breaking convention, going against the norm, and really just doing it their way! Over the years, Hublot has evolved substantially an...
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another heated Sunday Morning Showdown. Two recently released summer divers take center stage in this week’s battle. The first is the colorful Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue.” The watch reintroduces the aesthetic of the 1990s Tudor Submariner ref. 79190 with its mirror-polished bezel. It is combined with […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” Vs. Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B31 Automatic 40 Kelly Slater Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
We’re back with another installment of Back to Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared hobby. This time, we explore the world of accuracy in luxury mechanical wristwatches. So, if you are considering buying your first “real” watch, this is all you need to know about precision timekeeping and certification. Of course, […] Visit Back To Basics: Accuracy And Certification In Watches to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Admit it, you’re here because you googled “Most Expensive Rolex Watches” in the hopes of gathering up some horological bar trivia, right? No? You say you’re here because you really, truly are interested in buying one of the most expensive watches Rolex currently puts out? Well, good news. We’ve updated this article to incorporate both. Photo: Sotheby's Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex is today the most globally recognized Swiss luxury watch brand, one of the leading innovators in the watch industry from the 20th Century to today, and the maker of some of the most popular and coveted watch models in the world, from gents’ classics like the Datejust and Day-Date to sport-luxury icons like the Submariner, Daytona, and GMT-Master. As one might expect with such a horological pedigree, Rolex watches have also become some of the most valuable watches on the secondary and auction markets, with the most elite and exclusive pieces selling for $1 million or more. (Disclaimer: obviously, for the most avid and well-connected Rolex customers, it is the legendary “off-catalog” models - like the "Rainbow Daytona" pictured above - that both project the most mythical aura of exclusivity and command the most stratospheric prices. The problem with accurately reporting on which of them is really the “Most Expensive” is built into their rarity: such models change hands without an actual MSRP ever being declared publicly, and whatever that original purchase pric...
Fratello
This little introduction article is going to leave you wanting more. No, I don’t mean the watch itself, the most impressive and one-of-a-kind Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface. I mean more pictures of this highly complicated piece of Haute Horlogerie with its open dial, subtle use of color, and the impressive […] Visit Introducing: The Single-Edition Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...
Fratello
I always look forward to new releases from Maen Watches. This is one of the newer brands on the market, currently giving the established players a run for their money. Unlike the early days of “microbrands,” watches from Maen don’t cut corners, and the idea isn’t simply to shoehorn in as much value as possible […] Visit Introducing: The Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin to read the full article.
Fratello
Black and white must be the most commonly used colors ever for watch dials. In Nomos’s case, though, I don’t associate its watches with black dials. There are indeed some (13 currently on the website), but Nomos is a brand I associate more with white dials. There are over 100 references currently available with a […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date With A White Dial to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Casio’s first automatic sports watch, the EFK-100D, pairs Seiko’s NH35A movement with classic Casio style.
Fratello
The watch market may be experiencing a relatively sluggish period, but that hasn’t stopped the revival and relaunch of several high-end brands. While the overall market may be quiet, the upper end is still going strong. Amidst this, Urban Jürgensen, the famed brand from Copenhagen, is now entering its third era. Daniel Roth and Universal […] Visit Urban Jürgensen - A Luxury Brand Revival Done Right to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Tamim Almousa explains with a bit of satire how it’s impossible to be a good Muslim without being modest and humble. Wearing a gold watch goes against these virtues. It’s less the material itself and more the Glengarry Glen Ross statement it makes: See this watch? How obnoxious. But that's a rule he is happy to break for a few special watches.
Worn & Wound
When the Amida Digitrend arrived last summer, it was part of a crop of new releases from independent brands making interesting designs and complications accessible to a wider audience, and it really won me over. In my review last year I cited watches from Toledano & Chan, SpaceOne, and Holthinrichs as comps, either in spirit, technical features, or both. Those brands of course are still very much in the mix, and a year later there are even more examples of watches that offer unique value at competitive price points by introducing enthusiasts to new ways of thinking about what a watch can be. This is a long-winded way of saying that the market for these types of watches is more competitive than ever, so a follow up release becomes that much more important. Amida, for their part, is seeking to keep the momentum going by introducing a new version of the Digitrend that sheds some literal light on how they achieve their unique complication. The Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire is essentially exactly what it says it is – a Digitrend with a large sapphire window affixed to the case that allows the wearer to see the jump hour mechanism inside. Previously, this area was covered by a solid sheet of metal, an aesthetic drawn from the brand’s interest in automotive design. They are applying similar principles to the new version that leaves the “engine” (their terminology) exposed, referencing removable Targa tops as a point of inspiration. The Digitrend, for those who need a ...
Worn & Wound
It’s no secret that the visuals of a watch are often why collectors pull the trigger on adding yet another piece to their collection. It could be a specific color, the inclusion of a certain desirable bezel insert, the symmetry of a double register chronograph, or many other aesthetic reasons. This isn’t to say that the movement and build quality are not also a part of this decision-making process, but one of the chief reasons many of us love to collect is for the joy we feel putting one on wrist, potentially matching it with an outfit, and gawking at it throughout our busy days. What I wish to do here is move away from this mindset and instead appreciate how mechanical ingenuity can produce the same amount of excitement and allure. This Lanco Alarm watch may seem relatively lackluster at first glance. A simplistic silver case and dial with very few flashy or notable design choices, it could be easily mistaken for dozens of watches and brands who sold timepieces in the 1960s and 70s. Its most interesting characteristic is perhaps what’s most unremarkable on any other vintage dress piece: the use of a single crown. By the 1960s, brands like Vulcain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Poljot, Girard-Perregaux, Citizen, Bulova, and Helbros had released their own alarm watches, many of which utilized movements made by outside movement manufactures like A. Schild and Venus. The common denominator between these models and movements was the two crown layout: one typically adjusted and wou...
Monochrome
The latest Oris Aquis Date Relief is a reintroduction of the model with new dial and strap colours and the always cool steel bezel in relief. The Aquis Date Cherry (and others) in 43.5mm from a few years ago is very similar, but this follows the recent Aquis redesign and brings a new strap and […]
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen has been revived in fine style thanks to its investors and of course Kari Voutilainen. With the Finn in charge of watchmaking, the reborn brand made its debut with a trio of watches led by the flagship Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Inspired by the Oval pocket watch made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the UJ-1 is impressive in its execution, from construction to decoration. The quality is evident across the watch, which is unsurprising given Mr Voutilainen’s role in its conception and production. And the occasionally controversial lugs give an otherwise classical watch a distinct character. Initial thoughts The fine details of the UJ-1 are easily apparent in the metal. The movement decoration and construction are both impeccable, and so is the guilloche on the dial. But it is details like the engine turned case back and typography that give the UJ-1 that little bit of extra refinement. It is obvious from the photos, the movement quality is outstanding. Frosting, black polishing, chamfering, and so on – all are expertly accomplished. Moreover, all of the decoration is done in a traditional, often manual manner, rather than being mostly done by machine and then finished off by hand as is increasingly the case now. But finishing is merely the more obvious aspect of the appeal. The construction of the movement is equally impressive. It captures the style of the Oval pocket watch, including the three-dimensionality and clean aesthetics. Even though...
Time+Tide
A new Australian microbrand enters the fray with a dressy daily sector dial.The post The Parea Sector is bursting with minimalist detail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
As a watch writer, I sometimes run into something truly special and different from everything else. It doesn’t happen too often, but when it does, I know immediately. When we received the timepieces from the Chinese high-horology brand Celadon, I had that feeling as soon as I unwrapped them. After seeing the dials, it was […] Visit The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The first Citizen titanium watch hit the market more than 50 years ago, and while it probably didn’t receive the breathless coverage that it may have garnered in today’s watch media, it was a watershed moment for the industry. Many watch brands make titanium watches today, but few of them have made the metal a signature of its identity to the extent that Citizen has, and fewer still have even attempted what the Japanese watchmaking giant has achieved in terms of improving and plumbing the full, unrealized potential of titanium. In this feature, we explore Citizen’s history in titanium watches and spotlight some of its most historic pieces, from 1970 to today. Long before it entered the watchmaking arena in the late 20th Century, titanium had played a role in numerous industrial developments. It was first discovered in 1791 by clergyman and mineralogist William Gregor, in Cornwall, Great Britain, and named several years later by German chemist William Kaproth, who had previously discovered Uranium. Like the latter element, named for the Greek god (and planet) Uranus, titanium’s name comes from a mythological source, the Titans who preceded the Olympian gods. Some of its earliest applications as a mineral ore included titanium dioxide, in products like white pigment, and titanium tetrachloride, in hydrochloric acid and smoke screens. Later, alloyed with metals like iron, molybdenum, aluminum, and vanadium, titanium became prized for its high strength-to-weight rati...
Fratello
Back in 2019, I reviewed a purple-dialed Minase Divido. The watch was, and still is, different from anything I’ve ever worn. The insane level of case finishing blew me away. The bracelet construction was just as impressive with its intricate links. So perhaps it’s only appropriate, with my evolving appreciation for vintage rectangular watches, to […] Visit Introducing: The Minase 7 Windows Steel 2.0 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It has been a while since I last had a Monta watch on my wrist, so it was nice to approach this one with a fresh set of eyes. As one of the longer-standing smaller brands, Monta seems to be a bit of a known quantity at this point. They have very specific targets in both what they offer and their demographic, and seem to nail it almost every time in a very calculated way. Looking for an Omega Aqua Terra alternative for a fraction of the price? Check out the Monta Noble. You have a Rolex GMT Master II on your wishlist but can’t reasonably afford it, and need an alternative option? Well, there’s the Monta Skyquest for you. Thirsty for a Rolex Submariner but only looking to spend about one-third the retail price? Then, chances are good that you have already looked at previous iterations of the Monta Oceanking. I was in that camp almost a decade ago. Staring at older versions of the Aqua Terra online while signing up to be notified of the next restock of Monta Triumph models. No, I wouldn’t consider them one-to-one comparisons, as Monta does inject a bit of their own design language into each piece. However, while so many brands introduce new models year after year, chasing trends and sales, Monta instead takes the approach of refinement. Rather than pumping them out, they take in community feedback, look at their manufacturing capabilities and target price point, and make subtle but meaningful tweaks. That is how we’ve wound up with the Monta Oceanking in its third ver...
Fratello
Tudor’s Black Bay line has become the foundational building block for the modern brand. The Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” brings the summer vibes in the form of a 37mm dive watch. Let’s take a look. Tudor was once a more affordable entry point into the Rolex stable, sharing many parts, including cases, crowns, and […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Tudor is beach-ready with a new version of the vintage-sized dive watches, the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Matched with a “five-link” bracelet, the relaxed colorway – on a granular, textured dial notably – targets a different market without sacrificing the Black Bay 54’s impressive specifications or value proposition. Initial Thoughts The 37 mm case and utilitarian looks of the standard Black Bay 54 made it a great unisex option, perfect for men who appreciate vintage proportions or women who want a dive watch they could wear without it wearing them, or anyone in between. Tudor is arguably leaning towards a more feminine style in its marketing with the “Lagoon Blue”, though with the current popularity of turquoise dials, this is sure to be another gender-neutral hit. The keen-eyed will also note the slightly reflective, granular dial finish, which isn’t that novel in itself, but is notable for Tudor, which traditionally employs plainer dial surfaces. New look aside, the Lagoon Blue is still an excellent value. When considering the build quality, high-spec movement, and micro-adjust clasp, it’s difficult to find anything comparable at US$4,350, which alone is commendable. This, combined with a Jubilee-esque bracelet and in-vogue colorway, make the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue extremely compelling. The Slow Life The brand says the Lagoon Blue is meant to honor the slow life, but it’s still a capable diver, with well-lumed hands, dial, and bezel pip, i...
Monochrome
Over the past few years, the name Gérald Genta has become one of the most famous in the watch industry. There are multiple reasons for this. First, thanks to the work done by Evelyne and Alexia Genta (respectively his wife and daughter), with the Gerald Genta Heritage Association. Second, the so-called “Picasso of Watches” was […]
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