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First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 26, 2025

First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked

Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Exhibition: First Stop Abu Dhabi SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Anniversary Exhibition Feb 26, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Exhibition: First Stop Abu Dhabi

The oldest continuously operating watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin marks its 270th anniversary in 2025. In honour of this milestone, the brand has inaugurated The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence, an exhibition dedicated to its history and timepieces. Divided into four chapters, the exhibition includes archival materials and exceptional timepieces, illustrating the brand’s impressive heritage and knowhow. Now on show in Abu Dhabi until April 15, The Quest will make its way to other countries around the world over the course of the year. The exhibition’s first section, “Beginning”, delves into the brand’s early years with rarely seen historical documents and objects. Notable milestones include the invention of the pantograph, which standardised watch components by improving tolerances, and the Kallista, a 1970s watches made from a one-kilogram gold ingot and adorned with 118 diamonds, and reputedly the most expensive watch in the world at the time. The second chapter, “Artistic Crafts and Finishing,” highlights the brand’s watchmaking and craftsmanship, including engraving, enamelling, gem-setting, and guillochage. The “High Watchmaking” chapter invites visitors to explore the intricate craftsmanship behind the brand’s most complex movements with displays that magnify the tiny components of a movement. Most notably is a set of six sliding glass panels showcasing the 2,877 individual parts and 63 complications of the most complex watch ever, the Be...

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Fratello
Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Feb 26, 2025

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades

Retro watches have been all the rage for more than a decade now. When we review those releases, though, most are analog and inspired by highly collectible vintage timepieces with lengthy stories. But what about the omnipresent everyman’s watches we took for granted as kids or teenagers? Every so often, they return too, and if […] Visit Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades to read the full article.

First Look – The New 38mm AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in Sand Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet equips Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The New 38mm AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in Sand Gold

Marking a first for the recently introduced 38mm iteration of Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet equips its most compact reference with an automatic flying tourbillon. Not just any tourbillon, mind you, but AP’s ultra-thin calibre 2968, aka RD#3. Representing the best of both worlds, the new Code 11.59 Tourbillon fuses a state-of-the-art movement with a graceful […]

Omega Introduces New Bronze Gold and Burgundy References to the Seamaster Diver 300M Collection Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces New Bronze Gold Feb 24, 2025

Omega Introduces New Bronze Gold and Burgundy References to the Seamaster Diver 300M Collection

Giving an icon a shiny new coat of paint can be daunting. Of course, if you’re Omega and the icon is the Seamaster Diver 300M, you have plenty of material-both literally and figuratively-to draw on. In that vein, the new Seamaster Diver 300M in Bronze Gold and Burgundy, inspired by the very well-received 007 Edition launched in 2020 for the release of No Time to Die, isn’t reinventing the wheel, but it sure is making it prettier.  This new Seamaster features a strikingly similar design ethos to the 007 Edition, with an oxalic anodized bezel ring and dial, dual screw-down crowns at the 3 and 10 positions, and a domed sapphire crystal. Setting it apart, however, is the Bronze Gold 42mm case, hands, and indices. Omega’s proprietary alloy is composed of 37.5% 9K gold, along with palladium and silver, creating a material that, according to the brand, touts corrosion resistance without verdigris-oxidization, which extends the patina process over a longer period of time than regular bronze. Of course, the Bronze Gold case isn’t the only noticeable difference from the 007 Edition-the new Seamaster’s bezel sports a deep shade of burgundy that contrasts beautifully with the case and gives the watch an air of royalty. Two different models will be available at launch, and both feature the burgundy bezel over a matte black sandblasted aluminum dial. PVD 18K Bronze Gold hands and blackened indices, all of which are coated in Super-LumiNova, populate the dial alongside t...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs IWC Feb 23, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

It’s Sunday again, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. Mike and Jorg go head to head in a battle over integrated-bracelet sports watches this week. Two weeks ago, we had a similar match-up when Vacheron’s 222 went up against the Royal Oak. This week, two more famous watches in the same category fight […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Vs. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 to read the full article.

Arcanaut Introduces the D’Arc Roast, with a Dial Made from Coffee Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2025

Arcanaut Introduces the D’Arc Roast, with a Dial Made from Coffee

Coffee and watches. They go together like peanut butter and jelly, movie theaters and popcorn, fireworks and the Fourth of July. OK, it might be the most obvious pair, but there are deep connections if you look for them. There’s a culture of hardcore enthusiasm associated with each, for one. And there’s even an entire brand (an incredibly popular and beloved one in our community) inspired by coffee culture. And, for some reason I’ve never really been able to put my finger on, watch photographers have become incredibly fond of staging watches near coffee mugs, coffee beans, and anything remotely coffee related. The reasons for this, frankly, are puzzling. But there’s one exception: if the dial of your watch is actually made of coffee, I think you’ve earned the right to feature some beans in your shot.  The latest watch from Arcanaut, then, gets a pass if you’re one of the lucky 33 collectors able to acquire one. Built on the ARC II platform with that highly contoured, futuristic 40.5mm stainless steel case, the new D’Arc Roast limited edition features a brown dial that is made, in part, from coffee grounds. It’s right in line with Arcanaut’s mission to experiment with unusual materials, and also reflects the deep love of coffee in the brand’s home country of Denmark, which is the home of four of the seven winners of the Barista World Championship (store that one in the back of your brain for trivia night).  So how is the dial made? According to the bra...

Editorial – Who Invented the Balance Spring? Reaffirming the Crucial Role of Christiaan Huygens Monochrome
Feb 21, 2025

Editorial – Who Invented the Balance Spring? Reaffirming the Crucial Role of Christiaan Huygens

An article by Rob Memel, antiquarian horologist, professional certified watchmaker since 1984, and author of the book The Development Towards Huygens’ Spiral Spring (1660-1676), from which this article is a summary. About two years ago, I embarked on an in-depth investigation into another watch-related invention by Christiaan Huygens: the spiral spring on a balance wheel. […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models Fratello
Zenith Models Another Friday another Feb 21, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models

Another Friday, another list! This week and next, I will be putting the spotlight on Zenith. To be a bit more specific, for this week, I picked my top five modern Zenith watches. Next week, I will put the spotlight on some of the brand’s best vintage models. These are somewhat self-indulgent lists because I […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Zenith Models to read the full article.

Who Invented the Hairspring? SJX Watches
Feb 21, 2025

Who Invented the Hairspring?

Twenty twenty-five marks the 350th anniversary of the hairspring – it’s hard to believe the spiral ticking away in tens of millions of mechanical watches is already over three centuries old. The hairspring’s history is marked by revelations, disputes, and technical advancements, driven forward by creative horological minds, making the story of the hairspring a fascinating one. But behind all of that lies the question: who invented the hairspring? There are two familiar contenders for the title and it’ll take a deep dive into history to figure out who deserves credit. The motivation Prior to the invention of the hairspring, most timekeepers were clocks. Watches existed, but were essentially miniature clocks that still relied on some sort of gravity pendulum, making such early watches wildly inaccurate. So the hairspring was born of necessity, the need to transform clunky, stationary clocks into relatively precise portable timekeepers. By the mid 17th century, Dutch mathematician and physicist Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695) had already demonstrated a swinging pendulum could indeed serve as a reliable base unit of time measurement for a mechanical timekeeper. He designed his own cycloidal pendulum clocks equipped with oscillating bobs that were only dependent on gravitational acceleration and the cord’s length, making them true isochronous timekeepers. The first such clock was built in 1657 with the help of clockmaker Salomon Coster. “Isochronous” refers to an o...

Hands-On: The New Praesidus Iwo Jima 80th Anniversary A-11 Watches With Black Sand Dials Fratello
Feb 20, 2025

Hands-On: The New Praesidus Iwo Jima 80th Anniversary A-11 Watches With Black Sand Dials

Praesidus has quickly become the go-to brand for military-inspired watches. The company specializes in creating timepieces that recall historical military stories from different eras. On top of that, Praesidus offers incredible value for money. As a result, its watches have become popular storytellers and are hugely appreciated among fans. Last year’s D-Day 80th Commemoration series […] Visit Hands-On: The New Praesidus Iwo Jima 80th Anniversary A-11 Watches With Black Sand Dials to read the full article.

Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic in Watches SJX Watches
Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic Feb 20, 2025

Hublot Debuts Multi-Colour Ceramic in Watches

Hublot has taken the covers off the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, which the brand says is the world’s first timepiece to incorporate multi-coloured ceramic. While the case is fashioned from black ceramic, the standout feature is a bezel crafted in grey and blue ceramic, or more specifically, a dark grey ceramic base spotted with blue circles. Though the technical details of the two-colour ceramic are scarce at the moment – the patent is still pending according to Hublot – it appears the unique characteristic of the material lies in the fact that it is ceramic that has been coloured with two distinct pigments, as opposed to a single colour ceramic with an additional colour added. Initial thoughts For all of the criticism levelled at Hublot, the brand undeniably does well in materials innovation. Amongst its proprietary materials is Magic Gold, a gold-ceramic composite that was the first scratch-proof 18k yellow gold alloy. The Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic underscores this focus on materials. Granted, the watch isn’t for everyone. I find the weird, spotty bezel unappealing, but the potential of the material and technology behind it is certainly interesting, especially if applied in a more stylish manner. The material is likely still experimental, since the new Big Bang is a limited edition of just 20 pieces with a hefty price tag of US$33,000, so it might take some time to see it deployed on a wider basis beyond the bezel. Magic Ceramic Apart from the bezel, the new ...

Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps Fratello
Panerai owner was changing straps Feb 19, 2025

Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps

One of the things I loved best about being a Panerai owner was changing straps regularly. By swapping their “shoes,” the look of the Panerai watches drastically changed. Unfortunately, REM Straps did not exist at the time. We got to know the folks at the company very well during our partnership on Speedmaster straps. Quality […] Visit Introducing: REM Firenze Legends Straps to read the full article.

The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom Fratello
Armin Strom Feb 18, 2025

The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom

Of course, you are familiar with Omega and, most probably, Armin Strom as well. But did you know that Armin Strom, founder of the eponymous brand, was once the artisan doing all the skeleton work for Omega in the 1990s? Skeleton watches The art of movement skeletonization is old, and we still see it today […] Visit The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom to read the full article.

First Look – The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic Louis Vuitton Feb 17, 2025

First Look – The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic

Louis Vuitton is at the apex of the luxury ladder, recognised worldwide for its high-quality leather goods and accessories emblazoned with the iconic LV monogram. Although the Maison’s history dates back to 1854, watches didn’t materialise in LV’s portfolio until 2002 with the release of the Tambour. After 20 years of loyal service, the Tambour […]

Louis Vuitton Introduces A Trio Of Tambour Watches Fratello
Louis Vuitton Introduces Feb 17, 2025

Louis Vuitton Introduces A Trio Of Tambour Watches

Since its launch in 2023, the redesigned Louis Vuitton Tambour has led a watchmaking renaissance for a marque best known for its handbags and trunks. The iconic Parisian fashion house isn’t new to watches, but the focus on upscale pieces that compete with traditional watchmakers began in 2011 with the purchase of La Fabrique du […] Visit Louis Vuitton Introduces A Trio Of Tambour Watches to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux” Fratello
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 16, 2025

Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux”

A continuous jovial smile in the often overserious world of watches comes courtesy of Konstantin Chaykin. With the debut of the Joker in 2017, the Russian watchmaker introduced the Wristmons collection of watches that combines fun with serious watchmaking. Over the past seven years, he has created 40 characters for the series. The sheer number […] Visit Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux” to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Fratello
Chopard L.U.C XPS Good morning Feb 16, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS

Good morning, dear Fratelli. It’s Sunday again, which means we’re pitting two watches against each other. This week, Daan defends the recently released Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026. In the other corner, it’s Thomas with the Chopard L.U.C XPS ref. 61948-5001. That’s right; after the battle of the integrated-bracelet sports watches last week, get […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS to read the full article.

Introducing – Grand Seiko Unveils Three Cherry Blossom-Themed 62GS Watches, Including a New, Smaller Size Monochrome
Grand Seiko Unveils Three Cherry Blossom-Themed Feb 14, 2025

Introducing – Grand Seiko Unveils Three Cherry Blossom-Themed 62GS Watches, Including a New, Smaller Size

Grand Seiko anticipates the cherry blossom season in Japan – Sakura-Kakushi – with three models from its Heritage collection inspired by the annual blooming. Flaunting textured dials, one of Grand Seiko’s fortes, the new references respond to the current demand for more compact case sizes. Inspired by the design language laid down by Seiko’s first […]

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Feb 13, 2025

Tool/Kit: Minimalist Overlanding with Kat Shoulders Plus a Trio of New PRO TREKs

Kat Shoulders is the Head of Content here at Worn & Wound, but she’s also a professional photographer, avid outdoor enthusiast, and bonafide gear junkie. We follow her on one of her recent adventures with her new overlander and three of the latest PRO TREK models, each with their own unique functionality and vibe. The models are: PRG340-1, PRJB001B-2, and the brand new PRW6900YB-3. PRO TREK has continued to create an array of watches tuned specifically for outdoor lovers and this latest edition of Tool/Kit has been a great way to get to know them better. The post Tool/Kit: Minimalist Overlanding with Kat Shoulders Plus a Trio of New PRO TREKs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Defining a New Era of French Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Feb 12, 2025

Defining a New Era of French Watchmaking

Today, if you ask nearly anyone, “What’s the epicenter of watchmaking?” the answer will resoundingly be, “Switzerland,” but you might be surprised to learn its neighbor to the west is largely responsible for the birth of modern watchmaking as we know it. In France, the earliest clocks date back to the Middle Ages, primarily used by clergymen. Fast forward a few hundred years, you’ll find the first “wearable clocks” emerging in France by the end of the 1400s.  Over the next couple hundred years, watchmaking became an increasingly thriving industry in France. However, the horological community experienced its first disruption in 1685. That year, King Louis XIV revoked of the Edict of Nantes, which had granted the minority Calvinist Protestants of France, also known as Huguenots, substantial rights in the nation, which was predominantly Catholic at the time. As a result of the revocation, there was a mass exodus of Huguenots from France across the border to Switzerland, many of whom were-you guessed it-watchmakers.  King Louis XIV Still, the real golden age of French watchmaking came in the 1700s in conjunction with another major moment for the country: the Age of Enlightenment. During this time, Paris became the heart of the watchmaking industry. Here, in the Île de la Cité (one of two natural islands in the Seine River right in the center of the City of Light), is the Place Dauphone, a public square on the western end of the island opposite the ico...

Introducing – The new Bremont Terra Nova Bronze Collection Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova Bronze Collection Feb 12, 2025

Introducing – The new Bremont Terra Nova Bronze Collection

Last year, the British watchmaker from Henley-on-Thames unveiled a Terra Nova collection of rugged field watches, drawing inspiration from early 20th-century military pocket watches. The timepieces, designed for functionality and practicality, featured stainless steel cushion-shaped cases with a low profile and short, tapered lugs. Their defining characteristics included a large push-in crown for easy operation […]

Introducing – The New Sarpaneva Moomin 80, a Fascinating Tale in Super-LumiNova Monochrome
Sarpaneva Feb 12, 2025

Introducing – The New Sarpaneva Moomin 80, a Fascinating Tale in Super-LumiNova

If you have kids, you’re probably familiar with the Moomins – the lovely, hippo-shaped fairy tale characters created by Finnish author Tove Jansson. First introduced in 1945, these charming creatures have inspired everything from books and comic strips to TV series, films, and theme parks. Their whimsical world also caught the eye of Finnish watchmaker […]