Revolution
Introducing Montblanc’s New Watches in the Star Legacy Collection
Montblanc’s latest prove they know how to hit hard when it comes to high complications.
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Time+Tide
Zach’s top 5 Watches & Wonders novelties with an unlimited budget
This is the time of year I wish that I owned the patent for the coffee cup sleeve or happened to be the son of an oil baron. There have been so many fantastic novelties at this Watches & Wonders but, sadly, many are light years out of the reach of my 27-year-old budget. Still … ContinuedThe post Zach’s top 5 Watches & Wonders novelties with an unlimited budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage
Cool, icy cool. That’s what we have here, in a watch that brings to mind the German form over function we know from Sinn. With an air of indestructability, the Vero Open Water is a watch in which I can see no trace of vintage, or even the slightest trace of retro homage. And this … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Dresden Semper Opera Five-Minute Clock - The Inspiration For A. Lange & Söhne’s Large Date - Celebrates 180th Anniversary
The 180th anniversary of Dresden’s famous Semper Opera takes place on April 12, 2021. Home to the Saxon State Opera and the Saxon State Orchestra concert hall, the historic building also features the innovative Five-Minute Clock, which was the inspiration for A. Lange & Söhne's now iconic large date. Sabine Zwettler shares the story behind this clock and how it inspired the most powerful visual element of A. Lange & Söhne's Lange 1.
Deployant
IWC: Top 3 Favourites from Watches and Wonders 2021
We take a look at the latest offerings from IWC, specifically the Big Pilot's collection, straight from Watches and Wonders 2021.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Arnold & Son Luna Magna
Announced at Watches & Wonders 2021, the Arnold & Son Luna Magna boasts an exceptionally large spherical moon phase display that sits serenely on a dial made of aventurine glass. Powered by an in-house movement like all Arnold & Son (A&S;) watches, the Luna Magna typifies the sort of smartly-executed simple complications that A&S; excels at. The hand-wind movement is sharply finished, while the moon phase sphere is an unusual combination of two halves in aventurine glass and white marble. Initial thoughts The Luna Magna has simple but striking aesthetics. The dial is symmetrical and made up of classical details like Romain numerals and blued hands. But it has a very, very large moon phase display that’s also spherical. So it doesn’t try to do very much – the dial shows hours, minutes, and age of the moon – but it does the moon phase well. A&S; describes it as the “largest moon ever built into a wristwatch”, which I do not dispute in principle, and it certainly looks the part. But strictly speaking, “ever” is inaccurate, for the spherical moon in the Konstantin Chaykin Lunokhod is the same 12 mm in diameter. While A&S; did have extra-large moon phase display in a past model, it was a flat moon phase, lacking the three-dimensionality of the Luna Magna. That size of the moon sphere means it requires substantial clearance under the crystal, which leaves the total case height, including the crystal, a tall 15.9 mm. The moon seen from the back The movement inside is...
Quill & Pad
5 New Watches From Independent Watchmakers At Watches & Wonders 2021
Joshua Munchow highlights five pieces from some of our favorite independent brands that have just been released at Watches & Wonders 2021. From sapphire crystal-encased tourbillons and constant force fusée-and-chain-powered movements to stunning art pieces, these watches span genres and the spectrum of collector dreams.
Time+Tide
Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then?
When you think of Tudor watches, you typically think of stainless-steel, value-driven offerings. But Tudor surprised us all, making the leap to yellow gold as well as silver for the Tudor Black Bay 58. While the Tudor Black 58 18K presents a formidable step up in price, the new Tudor Black Bay 58 925 in … ContinuedThe post Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The top 5 TAG Heuer watches of 2021, with a focus on the redesigned and more refined Aquaracer
There was a curious response to our Instagram post about one particular model in the new Aquaracer Collection. It’s the Limited Edition of 844 pieces based on a Heuer model, reference 844 from 1978. A couple of days ago, we posted it side by side with the model that inspired it. Now, for me, this … ContinuedThe post The top 5 TAG Heuer watches of 2021, with a focus on the redesigned and more refined Aquaracer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk, Harry Winston, And The Opus V: Where On Earth Did That Come From? Plus UR-103.03 User Review – Reprise
While it was the UR-103 that first brought Urwerk attention from serious watch aficionados, it was the Harry Winston Opus V that really launched the boutique independent brand to the world. Ian Skellern takes a trip down memory lane with a deep dive into the history of Urwerk, the story of the Opus V, and a review of the UR-103.03.
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the L.U.C QF Jubilee
Named after Chopard founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C line is all about haute horlogerie, encompassing both complications and fine finishing. To commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, the brand is releasing the L.U.C QF Jubilee, a doubly-certified chronometer with a steel case, offering a finely finished movement at a relatively accessible price. Initial Thoughts The L.U.C QF Jubilee is an attractive watch that straddles the line between vintage and modern design. It is 39 mm wide and a hair under 9 mm thick, making it the perfect size for a classically-styled dress watch. The vintage inspiration extends to the shape of the lugs and the proportions of the mirror-polished case – both the bezel and case back are domed and sandwich a thin case middle, giving it proportions reminiscent of watches from the first half of the 20th century. Despite being a dress watch, the QF Jubilee is surprisingly practical – the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, as are the indices. While the sector-style design and syringe hands are vintage-inspired, the blue-on-silver colours and lume are concessions to modernity. But the best thing about the watch is the movement, which is an in-house automatic with a sophisticated construction and refined finishing. Even though the calibre is not decorated to the top grade of L.U.C finishing (those have the Poincon de Geneve), it is good enough to be better than almost all watches at this price range. The vinta...
Quill & Pad
4 New Sapphire Crystal-Cased Watches At Watches & Wonders 2021 From Hublot, Chanel, And Purnell
Transparency fascinates Elizabeth Doerr, who believes there’s no better way to reveal the inner workings of something and build an intimate relationship to it than to remove the covers. Here she shares four fascinating sapphire crystal-encased watches from Watches & Wonders 2021. Let there be light!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
John Mayer Tests Fanaticism with LE Invicta Release
While some AD’s fear this could lead to cross-contamination of brand identity, others have resigned to embracing the inevitable demand.
Revolution
Introducing the Louis Vuitton Novelties at Watches and Wonders 2021
Get to know the new Louis Vuitton timepieces
SJX Watches
H. Moser and Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye
After introducing the amusingly quirky Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/ last week, H. Moser and Cie. continues with its minimalist approach to design in a more serious-minded manner with the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye. Available in two variants each with equally stunning natural stone dials – blue Falcon’s Eye and reddish-brown Ox’s Eye – the new tourbillon features rich colours and textures that are a departure from Moser’s conventional aesthetic. Both dials are variants of Tiger’s Eye, the quartz mineral best known as golden brown but also found in other colours. Being a natural material with a prominent grain, each dial, and consequently each watch, is technically unique. The Ox’s Eye variant, with a red dial and red gold case. Initial thoughts The new tourbillon is based on an existing reference, which is already a mesmerising watch. However, for those seeking something different from the usual fume dials that’s still quintessentially Moser, the Tiger’s Eye certainly fits the bill. Mineral stone dials were the in-thing in the 1970s and 1980s – often found in with ultra-thin watches on mesh bracelets – and seem to be enjoying a resurgence today. But few have implemented semiprecious stones as beautifully as Moser has here, with its signature minimalist look providing the perfect canvas for the unique natural material. I find both variants equally attractive. The Falcon’s Eye is more contemporary in its blue and white g...
Revolution
Introducing the Ressence Type 2N ‘Night Blue’
Ressence has launched the latest addition to its innovative Type 2 collection, the Type 2N ‘Night Blue’, part of their releases for Watches & Wonders 2021
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Panda”
Tudor first starting making chronographs a half century ago, and to commemorate that milestone, the brand is facelifting the Black Bay Chrono by giving it a slimmer case as well as two new “panda” dials. Available in either a “panda” or a “reverse panda” dial, the new Black Bay Chrono sticks with the vintage-inspired styling of the Black Bay line, while also preserving the affordable pricing. Together that should make it popular amongst those seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The new Black Bay Chrono with an opaline dial Initial thoughts Tudor typically iterates rather than revamp, and so the new Black Bay Chrono is an incremental improvement, in part a response to the consumers’ desire for a slimmer chronograph (because the original was fairly chunky). The “panda” dials of the new Black Bay Chronos are more striking than the solid-colour dials of the 2017 original, because the juxtaposition of colour enhances the sportiness, while the monochrome aesthetic stays true to the utilitarian roots of the design. The Black Bay Chronograph with a “reverse panda” dial In addition, the steel bezels of the originals have been livened up with black aluminium inserts, which provides a distinct, retro-racing chronograph feel. My only knock on the new design is the date – I think the dial would look cleaner sans date, and properly vintage-inspired. My pick would be the Black Bay Chrono “reverse panda” matched with a metal bracelet. It possesses a s...
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch 43
One of the five makers of the beobachtungsuhr, or B-uhr, supplied to the German Luftwaffe during the second world war, IWC is perhaps best known for its pilot’s watches. And the quintessential modern-day IWC pilot’s watch is arguably the Big Pilot’s Watch, which is modelled on the oversized B-uhr (which translates “navigation watch”). Watches and Wonders 2021 sees a litany of new Pilot’s Watches from IWC, including the Big Pilot’s Watch 43, a more wearable, 43 mm version of its extra-large aviator’s watch that was historically 46.2 mm. The reduction in size is made possible due to the cal. 82100, instead of the seven-day cal. 52110 found in its larger brother. Available with black or blue dials, along with the option of a bracelet, the new Big Pilot sticks to traditional dial colours, with no green on offer, despite the faddish colour being found on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 that’s being launched at the same time. The Big Pilot Watch 43 in blue Initial thoughts A theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders seems to be downsizing – brands from Rolex to Panerai seem to be responding to rising demand for smaller cases. By shrinking the Big Pilot from 46 mm to 43 mm, IWC caters to those who still want a biggish pilot’s watch, but one that will be easier to wear. Aside from the reduced size, the new Big Pilot 43 has been pared back in terms of design (which is also a consequence of the new movement). Gone are the date and power reserve display ind...
Revolution
Zenith’s Latest at Watches and Wonders 2021
Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith walks us through their latest additions to the Pilots family at Watches & Wonders 2021.
Time+Tide
The top 5 Zenith watches of 2021, the brand’s best year in decades (already)
To say Zenith are having a good year in 2021 would be a dramatic understatement. Somehow, a brand that is widely recognised as being great / awesome / pivotal, but that still lives on the fringes, has stepped into the spotlight – and stayed there. First, there was the Chronomaster Sport. This is a watch … ContinuedThe post The top 5 Zenith watches of 2021, the brand’s best year in decades (already) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Zenith DEFY Extreme delivers three titanium-armoured sports watch contenders
Zenith threw a knockout punch only a few weeks ago with the new Chronomaster Sport, and our enthusiasm is quite apparent when reading Andrew McUtchen’s story here. It’s clear that CEO Julien Tornare and his team are on a roll and determined to continue their momentum. The new Zenith DEFY Extreme range enters the sports … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Zenith DEFY Extreme delivers three titanium-armoured sports watch contenders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces the UFO Table Clock
Having made a name for itself in the early 20th century for its marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin revisits its roots with the UFO, an intriguing table clock conceived to mark the brand’s 175th anniversary. Described as a “swinging mechanical depiction of the movement of the waves”, the UFO is as an avant-garde reinterpretation of the marine chronometer. It’s essentially a round-bottomed doll that will wobble and sway but never topple over, except it contains an impressive mechanical movement with a 365-day power reserve. Traditionally known for largely classical designs with the occasional twist, such as the Marine Torpilleur, Ulysse Nardin has been gravitating towards more boldly modern designs in recent years, exemplified by the Blast Tourbillon and the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. That experimental approach is now applied to the table clock in a collaboration with clock specialist L’Epée 1839, the supplier of choice for many watchmakers looking to get into exotic clocks. Initial thoughts Inspired by the oceans, the UFO sways when nudged, but remains upright thanks to a weighted base, creating an engaging display of timekeeping. And the UFO is practical as well, featuring three clock faces that can be set to different time zones, or to mirror each other. Granted, the UFO will have a very niche appeal, considering it’s a table clock with a complex design matched by a high price tag. Costing a whopping US$41,100, the UFO is almost double the price of L’Epé...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is the sweet upgrade of a winning formula
When new novelties arrive, more often than not consumers are presented with familiar frameworks paired with new dial tones. IWC design language is iconic within the industry, so for me to say this new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 looks entirely different would be a bit of a stretch. But this is actually great news. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is the sweet upgrade of a winning formula appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Unveils the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R in Rose Gold
Patek Philippe’s most coveted model line, the Nautilus was the focus of the four new launches at Watches & Wonders 2021. In addition to the ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial, the second new Nautilus for men is the Nautilus Travel-Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R-001, a rich combination of a rose gold case with a deep blue dial. An ultra-luxe travel watch (that’s still a bit more affordable than the recent Greubel Forsey GMT Sport), the ref. 5990 has been one of the most complicated models in the Nautilus line since its introduction in 2014. First launched in stainless steel with a black dial, the ref. 5990 was an instant hit due to its good looks and practicality – and the fact that it’s a Nautilus. Initial thoughts In rose gold case with a blue dial, rendered in a shade of blue similar to that of the original ref. 5711/1A, the new ref. 5990/1R-001 is a good-looking timepiece that no doubt looks and feels like a luxury-sports watch, albeit more luxury than sports. If the steel ref. 5990/1A wasn’t not luxe enough, this ought to do the trick. Leaving aside the fact that it’s a Nautilus, hence an ultra fashionable watch that’s near impossible to get, the ref. 5990 is appealing in its intrinsic qualities, regardless of material. Despite the complications, the ref. 5990 is actually svelte, just 12.53 mm high, making it one of the slimmer flyback chronographs on the market – and it also incorporates a second time zone function. Add to that the fine finishing of...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine
Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive – and arguably most compelling – time-only watch is the American 1921, a large, cushion-shaped wristwatch with the dial rotated off the vertical. Already available in a variety of guises, including platinum, the model now gets an upgrade in terms of materials with the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other watches in the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) collection – Vacheron Constantin debuts a CEP model every year or so – the American 1921 CEP has its case and dial in platinum, while the strap is stitched with thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Wide, thin, and quirky, the 1921 is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most unusual offerings. I love everything about the watch – the design, size, and details – especially the platinum version with a silver dial and blue numerals. The CEP edition goes one better, and is even more appealing. The matte, grained platinum dial and applied Breguet-style numerals are perfect. Compared to the standard version of the 1921 in platinum, the 1921 CEP is relatively good value. The 1921 CEP costs less than 10% more than the standard version – a modest increment for the platinum dial and 100-piece production run. But the standard model is pricey to start with, so the 1921 CEP still costs a hefty US$51,000. Pt950 Debuted in 2006, the CEP collection now includes a variety of models, most recently last year’s Patrimony with calendar. Though the m...
Revolution
Introducing the Piaget Polo Skeleton Gold
The new line-up consists of rose gold, white gold with a diamond-set bezel and two fully paved versions with cases and, most impressively, movements that are set with up to 573 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds.
Revolution
Introducing Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum Limited Editions
Colorful jewelled watches are trendy now. Zenith joins the likes of Chopard, Cartier, Jacob & Co, Harry Winston and Rolex to introduce a spectrum of colors to the highly technical DEFY sports watch.
Revolution
Introducing the Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection
Who said a dive watch had to be boring?
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K
Tudor’s first-ever solid-gold dive watch is making its debut at Watches & Wonders 2021. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K has a case in 18k yellow gold – in a sleek, brushed finish – along with a gold-flecked green dial. (And the Fifty-Eight 18k is launching alongside the more affordable Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 with a sterling silver case.) And despite being ultra-luxe for Tudor, the Fifty-Eight 18k is very much like the rest of Tudor’s offerings in being a value proposition, with a retail price of a bit over US$18,000 – a solid deal for a solid-gold dive watch. Initial Thoughts If there is one thing this year’s Watches & Wonders has made abundantly clear, it is that green is the new flavour of the day. The Fifty-Eight 18K is one of many green watches being launched – but doubtlessly the best value proposition – and Tudor opted for a dark, rich green that complements the case metal. Stylistically, the new Fifty-Eight models are polar opposites. The sterling-silver 925 is reserved and subtle, while the 18K clearly has greater visual impact. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K comes with two straps: alligator leather and fabric The Fifty-Eight 18k is expensive for a Tudor, with a retail price of US$18,340. That’s over US$15,000 more than last year’s navy blue version in steel. But – and this is a big but – when compared with the precious-metal dive watches made by practically every other brand, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is a bargain in relative te...
Revolution
Introducing the New TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300
TAG Heuer’s new Aquaracer dive watch in a range of colored dials puts us in the right mood to enjoy our favorite water sports.