Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGA025G 'Atera Valley' – The Best New Dial I've Seen In A Long Time
From the minds that brought us "Snowflake" and "Shunbun," could this be a new dial-driven icon?
Results for Cathedral Hands
3,881 articles · 370 videos found · page 79 of 142
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Apple Watch Series 10 And Ultra 2 Black (Video)
Plus some thoughts 10 years down the road.
Teddy Baldassarre
Hands-On: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm
When it comes down to my personal watch tastes, I would not self-identify as a quiet luxury enthusiast. Nor would I claim to be a minimalist, even if we’re talking about the luxury variety. More often, my preferences lean towards the quirky and colorful, and I have been known to be a lover of things many might consider “junky,” “kitsch,” or even “tacky” at times. No matter how long I’m in “The Biz,” I don’t think I will ever be able to shake my enthusiasm for thrift-store gems or my habit of scouring eBay for hidden deals at strange hours of the night. However, if I were to have any hard-and-fast rule when it comes to Close Encounters With Watchkind, it would be always to leave ample room to be surprised. During my alone time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm, I will admit that I found myself surprised - and might even be so bold as to say pleasantly surprised. For context’s sake, Parmigiani Fleurier is a relatively young brand in the world of watches. Founded in 1996, Parmigiani Fleurier is the brainchild of Michel Parmigiani – a Swiss-born watch restorer and architecture enthusiast who cut his horological teeth during the peak of the quartz crisis, in which he turned his focus to preserving and reviving antique pieces at his own workshop, Mesure et Art du Temps. Despite the maison’s intimate knowledge of horological history, in the current revival-heavy landscape of modern watchmaking, a quick look at Parmigiani F...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Last year Vacheron Constantin (VC) the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding ref. 82172, a fresh variant of the brand’s longstanding time-only dress watch. Combining an 18k pink gold case with a sunburst green dial, the new Traditionnelle is an unusual and bold twist on the traditional formal wear timepiece. Although compact in dimensions and formal in style, it stands out as dress watch that different without trying too hard. Initial thoughts The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is arguably VC’s quintessential dress watch. It has a traditional aesthetic and perfect proportions at 38 mm. And though it’s an entry-level model, it features upscale details like solid-gold indices and hands, along with a refined movement. The most familiar iteration of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is pink gold with a silver dial, which is classic but perhaps too plain for some. Similarly, most dress watches, VC or otherwise, tend to be in conservative colours, silver, cream, black and so on. The new Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, on the other hand, is a striking metallic green that’s flashy but not overly so. The combination is unconventional as a dress watch, but it works well. And it’s also one of the most affordable dress watches in the brand’s catalogue. Only the Patrimony 40 mm is less expensive but that has the slightly simpler cal. 1400 movement. The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding on the other hand sports the higher-end cal. 4400 AS, a large movement with a long power reserve that...
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands-On With The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow
Finally, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow has a titanium bracelet to match! But can it change my mind on the ladder-style bracelet? Let’s find out! What We Love: Great movement specs and finishing Plenty of micro-adjustment holes for easy wear A sleek, sporty yet geometric design What We Don’t: The clasp isn’t as refined as it could be Ladder bracelet isn’t for everybody Retro styling may not suit all people’s tastes Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 “If You Know, You Know/IYKYK”: A phrase that I keep seeing being used all around social media. It’s a statement I often find used to infer that only a select amount of people know about a certain thing. It’s kind of cool and funny when done for inside jokes, but more often than not I see the term overused to gate-keep to an annoying degree. From withholding movie titles to restaurants – some people need to wake up and realise that buying Adidas Sambas, watching Set It Up or going to that poké place down the road doesn’t make you the main character of anything. Conversely, if used in moderation, it can make a community feel truly special and grateful to be a part of a tight-knit fan base. In that respect, I believe that Le Locle watch brand Zenith is the definition of an IYKYK community. I’ve not met a single Zenith wearer who doesn’t absolutely love Zenith – every single one who, upon mentioning my appreciation for their watch of choice...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Cartier Tank Américaine Now Comes In Yellow Gold
One size does not fit all. Available in large, small, and mini.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold
An impressively executed follow-up from Daniel Roth and La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Singer DiveTrack – The Wildest, Most Overbuilt Dive Watch You've Ever Seen
When just because you can = you totally should.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Dietrich ED-1
One of the great things about the world of watches today is there’s always something out there waiting to surprise. Even as someone who spends a lot of time paying attention to this stuff, there are still brands that slip through the cracks and watches that sneak by when my head is turned. I’ll admit, Dietrich was one of those brands I had missed. Now, having spent some time with two variants of their latest release, the ED-1, I have to say I’m paying attention. Okay, I hadn’t entirely missed them, but I knew Dietrich best from their relatively conventional SD-2 Skin diver. That watch certainly stood out from the familiar onslaught of dive watches, but the structured conventions of dive watches meant the SD-2 didn’t offer the full Dietrich experience. The rounded leaf hands, sandwich dial, and ever-so-slightly hexagonal dial were enough to evoke the Dietrich ‘look,’ but at the end of the day a dive watch is a dive watch, and there’s only so much you can do without ending up with something else. The Dietrich ED-1 marks a return to the core of Dietrich watchmaking, this time with the intention of creating the “ultimate everyday watch.” As an industry, we tend to break watches into categories: dive watches, field watches, pilot’s watches, dress watches, tool watches, dressy tool watches - the list goes on. It’s a bit of a trick, one that makes it easier for both brands and journalists to communicate this intention behind a watch and establish expecta...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT – A Powerful, Accessible True GMT Watch
Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different watches, all created with specific professional applications in mind. Celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, Citizen […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11
Many are quick to point to the venerable Seiko SKX and Seiko Turtle as being the best entry-level dive watches, even going as far as to label them as “must haves” in every collection. That being said, I have always gone a bit against the grain. Now don’t get me wrong, both of those watches have made their way into my permanent collection over the years with the Seiko SKX007 claiming its place as my first serious tool watch, though neither have managed to capture more wrist time than my Seiko Samurai. There is something about the angular architecture, the aggressive handset, and the considerably chunky feel on my wrist that has plucked a heart string within, leading me to argue in its defense and recommend it to those with large wrists akin to my own. So, when I learned that Seiko would be introducing a new generation of Samurai models this year with refined proportions and updated visuals, I jumped at the opportunity to add yet another one to my collection and ordered the red-dialed Seiko Samurai SRPL11. $575 Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Case Stainless steel Movement 4R35 Dial Red Lume Yes Lens Mineral Strap Bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 41.6 x 49mm Thickness 12.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $575 While other models in the Seiko lineup have ultimately remained the same over the years, the Seiko Samurai has seen quite a few changes in its relatively short lifetime. Since its inception in 2004, we have seen the...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Biver Returns With The New 'Automatique' And A Proprietary Micro-Rotor Movement
After their $550,000 Carillon Tourbillon, the brand is focusing on thoughtful and meticulous growth with their new automatic model.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer
Independent watchmaker and proper horologist Bernhard Lederer has once again captured the spotlight in recent years, with the horological community admiring and discussing his Central Impulse Chronometer series. This collection of wristwatches features a unique movement designed by Lederer, regulated by a high-accuracy escapement inspired by Breguet’s natural escapement and George Daniels’ independent two-wheel, dual-impulse […]
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Classima
Somewhere in between dress and sports, the new Baume & Mercier Classima may be in a class of its own, but how does this piece traverse daily life? What we Love Classic and elegant looks The deep blue dial Has the right amount of wrist presence What We Don’t The rotor movement is a little noise The chronograph pushers are on the stiff side The crystal is on the thinner side, reducing the solid feeling of the watch Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 In a recent article, I delved into the history of Baume & Mercier, and the brand today, like many watch brands with almost two centuries worth of history, is different from the one started back in 1830 by the two Baume Brothers. Over the decades, and now centuries, it has evolved from a brand that was specialising in high complications and winning awards at The Kew Watch Trials, to being a solid mid-entry level player in the Swiss watch industry. This is a similar story to many others out there, and this is not a negative thing by any stretch, it’s just the way the world works – watches and other industries alike. William Baume and Paul Mercier, the founders of what is now known as Baume et Mercier, which evolved out of the original Baume & Co brand set up in 1830 by William’s Grandfather and Great Uncle. The pioneers of the brands and industries were just that, pioneers and the inventors of their time. Nowadays, you still need this, but more so, you need ...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Laurent Ferrier Série Atelier Classic Auto 'Sandstone'
Is Laurent Ferrier back, or was it just here all along and we needed a reminder?
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Unimatic Modello Uno And Modello Quattro GMTs With Japanese Movements
Unimatic introduces two new automatic GMTs at a lower price point.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days
One of my first and most eagerly anticipated Geneva Watch Days meetings was with Favre Leuba, a brand that I’ve admired for a very long time, even as its modern incarnation felt like a shell of the brand of its vintage heyday. Favre Leuba is a brand with a long history, dating back to the first half of the 18th century, and is perhaps best known for the Bivouac, a watch with an integrated altimeter complication. Ownership of the brand has changed many times over the years, and in recent years the marque was controlled by various holding companies that never did justice to the watches created in Favre Leuba’s best years. This year, however, marks a new start for the brand, under the leadership of watch industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, who had a long stint at Ulysse Nardin, and later WatchBox. At Geneva Watch Days, they debuted a robust new collection of watches that pays homage to the brand’s history while also looking forward, giving Favre Leuba the best chance they’ve had in years for real success. Patrik Hoffmann at Geneva Watch Days 2024 There are multiple ways to relaunch a brand. You can start small, even with a single watch, and work your way toward building a collection. Or you can go big with something akin to the kitchen sink approach, with varied collections and price points. The advantage, I suppose, of going big is that a brand will get immediate feedback on what works and what doesn’t, but it also seems risky. What if none of it works? Favre Leuba...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Praesidus DD-45 “Patina”
The muggy jungle of the South Pacific was no place for weak watches. As World War II raged through the early 1940s, Allied troops found themselves trailing behind the production capabilities of their Axis counterparts, and manufacturing on the homefront turned all attention to the war effort. Civilian-spec’d watches were not going to cut it in either theater of operations – the elements were too brutal for delicate equipment of any kind. Military necessity being the timeless innovator it is, the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) committed to finding robust timekeeping options for the Allies that could be produced as quickly as possible. The specifications were stringent and twelve brands were tapped for the task: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. Among many other things, the watches were to have a black dial, Arabic numerals and be housed in a stainless steel case. The time would be made legible with the help of luminous indices and hands – care for a little radium, anyone? Every watch was marked on the caseback with triple Ws: Wrist Watch Waterproof. The diameter ranged in sizes, depending on the brand, with Longines at the larger end of 38mm and IWC and Omega on the small side at 35mm. These watches are widely considered to be the first true field watches, as we know field watches today. The entire set, one watch from each of the twelve brands selected for production, is a collection-grail for ...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.1S, Some Of The World’s Best Horological Entertainment And So Much More
A "thank you" to friends and supporters, a horological toy, or a way to democratize decades of avant-garde design – any way you slice it, the M.A.D.1 series never fails to make you smile, if you’re lucky enough to get one.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: An Unusual Chronograph Revival – The Nivada Grenchen Chronosport
It's an unusual-looking watch, but I shouldn't have judged a book by its Singer-dialed cover.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold
Following the revival of Daniel Roth with the launch of the limited edition Tourbillon Souscription last year, the brand is now building its catalogue with the Tourbillon Rose Gold, which will be a regular production model. The Tourbillon Rose Gold is a variation of the original with tweaks to the decoration and material, but most significantly, the new tourbillon is fitted with a display back that shows off the DR001 movement. Initial thoughts It was expected that Daniel Roth would follow up with a regular production tourbillon, so the Tourbillon Rose Gold is not surprising. Like the Souscription, it has an obviously high quality of make in construction, finishing, and details. Both the dial and case are 5N rose gold so it is strikingly pink, giving it a stronger presence than the Souscription, which in comparison is low key. It was a shame that the DR001 movement was hidden in the Tourbillon Souscription because the calibre is worth admiring. The movement is high quality in both design and finishing, boasting many details that enthusiasts now regard as key elements of haute horlogerie. The quality of finishing is impressive. In fact, the movement decoration is as good as some small-scale independent brands, reflecting the attention to detail that has characterised the resurrected Daniel Roth brand. Admittedly, such fine finishing isn’t as rare as it once was, since it is now sought after by enthusiasts and specialist subcontractors have sprung up to cater to that deman...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition
Who knew a "sports" watch could be so fun.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome
Hyper Horology. A term coined by the Roger Dubuis manufacture that perfectly describes its complex and extravagant watchmaking style. The brand doesn’t shy away from uniquely creative and colourful expressions, regularly incorporating exotic materials stemming from the automotive or aeronautical world. Roger Dubuis’ latest adaptation of its cornerstone Excalibur collection not only incorporates a double […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition 'Polaris Dawn' – Four Unique Watches That Are Headed To Space
After coming back to earth, the watches will be auctioned by Christie's in New York to benefit St. Jude Children's Research Hospital.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic
In its original form, the Piaget Polo is an all-gold watch emblematic of 1970s style, but the model’s latest incarnation is the opposite. The Polo Skeleton Ceramic has an ultra-thin movement open-worked in a clean, geometric style, presented in brushed black ceramic case. Based on the original in steel, the Polo Skeleton Ceramic is dressed in restrained colours of black, grey, and dark blue, for a minimalist, low-key aesthetic. Initial thoughts The modern Polo has evolved since its original form of 2016, and with the evolution the model has gained its own character. While the original version felt like a typical luxury-sports watch with its patterned blue dial and prominent bezel, the skeleton in ceramic looks original. The matte black ceramic case matches the technical appearance of the movement, though I would have preferred grey or even white Super-Luminova. The blue lume matches the rotor and Piaget’s corporate colour, but it is too unorthodox (and it also glows less brightly). Though finished with the same alternate brushed and polished surfaces as its steel counterpart, the ceramic case feels more refined given the comparative challenge of finishing ceramic to the same degree as steel. The cal. 1200S1 is open worked in a modern style that is typical of many current skeleton movements. All of the bridges have clean lines and surfaces, which complements the case and dial aesthetic. The movement finishing is industrial-haute horlogerie, though I would have employed ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver
“Sold Out,” the words marking what was previously an “add to cart” button, reminding me that I missed out on the original drop. Just a few months ago, a small unassuming brand just 4 hours south of me in Cincinnati, Ohio teased a few images of an eye-catching dive-style watch sporting the tongue-in-cheek dial text of “0 ft = 0m, No Submersion, Superlative Desk Diver, Unofficially Certified”. While it is true that a lot of brands release watches on the more playful side of things, it is rare that the actual watch appears well executed throughout but instead leans into the whimsical, forgetting about tradition and practicality. So as further details and images were revealed of the 75-piece limited edition, it began to paint a picture of a well-made everyday watch utilizing new old stock Swiss-made cases poking fun at the seriousness plaguing the watch community. I loaded up the website, then swung and missed. So, when I learned that a non limited Desk Diver was in production with an upcoming release, I jumped at the opportunity to get the model on my wrist and give it a proper go. Being that the original was limited simply due to the number of cases found after 50 years of hiding, Cincinnati Watch Co. set out to recreate a faithful case design made to a modern specification. The vintage-inspired cushion case measures a stout 43.3 mm in diameter. Despite its large measurements on paper, the Desk Diver Professional makes use of its clever geometry to disappear on...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Tackling The Brilliantly Practical Porsche Design Globetimer
On the occasion of Porsche launching the 911 992.2 Hybrid, Porsche Design introduced a new watch collection to its custom-built program. Mechanically based on the previous generation of the Globetimer, Porsche Design now puts it in the titanium case of the chronograph. Made to order, and with tons of custom options on offer, you can […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Wait Is Over, As Kallinich Claeys Have Finished Their Marvelous Einser Zentralsekunde
Almost two years ago, we published a story about two young and talented watchmakers coming out of A. Lang & Söhne to set up shop for themselves. Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, founders of the Kallinich Claeys watchmaking atelier, were hard at work to develop and build their first watch, the Einser Zentralsekunde. On paper, […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Zealandic Iceborne
Maybe it’s just me but I find the micro and independent watch world to be utterly fascinating. And it is so for many reasons, one being the sheer variety of options we have for all genres of watches which are available at a wide variety of prices. From GMTs and elegant dressy models to divers and field watches. And there are indeed many options to choose from in all of these categories. One of my favorite things about watch writing is bringing readers stories on the little guys, so I’m therefore pleased to be writing this article to tell you about the just released Zealandic Iceborne. A new brand founded in New Zealand by Derek Chuan whose project I’ve been following for the past two years now, so it’s nice to be able to get my hands on the prototypes. Derek has been working on this project for longer than I have known him. And his idea of creating a watch which represents New Zealand has been on par with the recent trends of endowing watches with textured and nature-inspired dials. Between you and me, Derek has been working on this long before many other brands probably have. And this is just to say that the Iceborne has been a long time in the making and I believe it shows. Both from a visual perspective as well as from a spec sheet one. The Iceborne has a look of its own and it is made of the right stuff to be a proper field and adventure watch. It will be made available via a Kickstarter campaign at the introductory price of $441 USD. $483 Hands-On: the Zea...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV
In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences. But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...