Two Broke Watch Snobs
Exploring the CWC SBS Diver: The Perfect Blend of Style and Military Heritage
A review of the CWC SBS Diver watch, a military-inspired timepiece that blends authenticity and modern design. Is it worth the £729 price tag?
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
A review of the CWC SBS Diver watch, a military-inspired timepiece that blends authenticity and modern design. Is it worth the £729 price tag?
Monochrome
Bulgari’s Aluminium collection erupted on the scene in 1998. Fusing design elements from earlier models like the 1975 Bvlgari Bvlgari with the twice-emblazoned brand name on the gold bezel, the slick Aluminium with its bold mix of lightweight aluminium and rubber accents was a runaway success. Making its much-awaited comeback in 2020 during Geneva Watch […]
Worn & Wound
When I started collecting watches many years ago, I vividly remember stumbling upon a blog discussing YES and their array of unique and technologically advanced watches. I’m typically not someone who utilizes many of the functions on a watch besides the basic time and date keeping, but when I saw how complicated the dial and modes were on these, I knew I would have to own at least one at some point. Now with two different models in my collection, I wish I could go back and thank the author of that blog for steering me in the right direction all those years prior. For those of you who haven’t seen or heard of YES before, allow me to shed light on them just like that blog did. A Brief History of the Company For a more in-depth rundown on how YES came to be, I highly recommend reading the writeup by the brand’s founder himself, Bjorn Kartomten, featured on their website. Here, I want to instead offer some insight on the brand’s models and technological innovations rather than the nuts and bolts of how the brand came to be. As I’m sure you’ve already been able to gather by the included photos thus far, these aren’t your typical three-handers. Throughout YES’ catalog are watches boasting equinox and solstice alerts, lunar phase information, daylight and nighttime readouts and estimates, sun and moon calculators to show lunar data for any locations between the years 2000 and 2100, high and low tide indicators, phase elapse countdown timers, compasses, alarms,...
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey repackages its cutting edge perpetual calendar in a sleeker, more accessible format as the QP Balancier. It’s still a highly legible calendar that adjusts forward and back via the crown without need of tools or fear of damage. Despite the simpler styling, the QP Balancier retains the high-end movement decoration the brand is known for. Initial Thoughts Greubel Forsey was arguably a latecomer to the world of complications, spending its first decade on chronometry, refining the tourbillon. The brand’s first complication, the GMT presented in 2011, applied an unfamiliar approach to a familiar complication. That set the tone for the brand’s first perpetual calendar four years later – the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation. At its heart was a “mechanical computer” programmed with 48-month leap year cycle that allowed the calendar to be adjusted forward and back without issue, all from the crown. The Quantième Perpétuel à Équation of 2015 While the result is not novel, – Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. have bi-directional perpetual calendar as well – the method certainly is. Greubel Forsey paired the mechanical computer with a similarly sophisticated in-line display – using four layers of stacked disks – making its perpetual as easy to read as it is to use. The new QP Balancier is a more focused watch than its predecessor, as it does away with the 24-second inclined tourbillon and equation of time. While wider, the case is also slimmer an...
Time+Tide
Bridging the gap from the SUB 600 to the ultra-deep 1500, the new slimmer 750T strikes a great balance between specs and wearability.The post The Doxa SUB 750T is back, and it’s significantly slimmer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
American watchmaking was, at one point in time, the largest in the world. In an era before Swiss domination, watches from the United States were prized for their accuracy and sophistication. Names like Waltham, Elgin, and Gruen - once prolific - have all but disappeared through the rapidly changing social and economic structures of the twentieth century. Then there is Hamilton. American watchmaking was, at one point in time, the largest in the world. In an era before Swiss domination, watches from the United States were prized for their accuracy and sophistication. Names like Waltham, Elgin, and Gruen - once prolific - have all but disappeared through the rapidly changing social and economic structures of the twentieth century. Then there is Hamilton. The post A History and Guide to Hamilton appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Two quartz movements, two pairs of handsets and crowns on stone dials propel the design-driven brand's next piece.
Worn & Wound
Our friend, colleague, and founder of Vortic Watch Co, RT Custer, needs our support. After a sudden medical emergency earlier this summer, RT and his family face a long road to recovery. As a result, there is significant uncertainty around the future of Vortic Watch Co and its sister brand Colorado Watch Co, not to mention the physical, mental, and financial hardship that comes with any major medical event. We’re here to help spread the word of RT’s situation and urge the watch community to support his recovery. CLICK HERE TO DONATE TO RT’S GOFUNDME CAMPAIGN Earlier this summer, RT suffered a massive stroke while traveling for work in Detroit. Very fortunately, RT was taken within minutes to a Level 1 trauma center, where he received clot-busting medication and underwent emergency surgery to remove a clot blocking over 90% of his right cerebral artery. He spent 10 days hospitalized, then 10 days in rehabilitation relearning to walk and manage daily tasks. Doctors expect a full recovery, but neurological healing will take time-roughly 12 months before considering a return to work and 2–3 years before resuming the full demands of running a company. RT’s wife, Lindsay, has stepped in to run business operations for both companies. In addition to being a great guy, RT has been an essential part of the watch community since Vortic was founded in 2013. He’s pioneered contemporary American manufacturing and has played a key role in keeping the long history of America...
Worn & Wound
Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) was a prominent American banker and art collector, most famous for his passion for collecting timepieces. He is best known for commissioning some of the most complex and innovative watches ever made, including the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication, considered one of the most significant and expensive timepieces in horological history. Graves was born on the 11th of March 1868 in Orange, New Jersey, in the United States of America. The Graves family was a prominent and wealthy banking family. His father, Henry Graves Sr. (1838–1906), was a co-founder and partner in the Maxwell & Graves banking firm. They engaged in the railroad and financial services industries and Henry Graves, Jr. continued the family legacy of financial services expertise as an investment banker. The company operates today under the name M&G; Solutions which was founded by the great-great-grandson of Henry Graves Jr. They use an image of the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication in their logo signifying the ‘&’ symbol paying tribute to his relative’s interest in watches (below). Graves was known primarily for his legendary watch collection which stemmed from his status as a wealthy financier who appreciated fine craftsmanship and luxury items. He was also an avid collector of art, reflecting his refined taste, acquiring items of significant cultural and historical value. Henry Graves Jr.’s interest in watches stemmed from his status as a weal...
Deployant
We were featured in A Blog to Watch's Superlative podcast, where Peter Chong talked at length about his journey through watch collecting and media.
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Time+Tide
We often hear about watches being passed down from fathers to sons, but what about daughters?The post Crossing generational and gender divides: the best watches for girl dads and their daughters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Some trade fairs simply showcase new products. Others illuminate entire industries, their supply chains, and market dynamics. The Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair, opening September 2 for its 44th edition, falls squarely in the latter category.
Time+Tide
It looks like we have a new trend taking off: blue is now being replaced by burgundy, grape, and plum... The post New releases from Taos, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Stirling Timepieces. Check out the new Jarvis Diver GMT and a link to their website below. Notorious EDC and Big Idea Design Create the Jot N Pop Photo courtesy of Dave Svarte These days, collaboration is the name of the game. Whether it’s teaming up with a famous soda brand (looking at you Seiko and Jack Mason), or two EDC powerhouse brands creating something entirely different. When our team was at Blade Show this year, we got a sneak peak of the first Jot N Pop prototype and knew it was going to be something special. According to Tom Medovich, “The Jot N’ Pop is what happens when you mash up Big Idea Design’s Pocket Pro with the Beer Bomb. A titanium pen that’s built to do whatever you throw at it, as long as whatever you throw at it is writing stuff down or opening bottles.” Regardless of how they came up with this idea, we can’t think of a more perfect tool for staying hydrated and taking notes! Built upon the design of the Pocket Pro, the new Jot N Pop is entirely machined from Grade 5 titanium (no plastic parts!), with a pocket clip made from grade 4 Ti for spring tension. Arguably the mos...
Time+Tide
And not because we don't think they're good watches, or that the average person can't pull one off.The post A stainless steel Patek Philippe isn’t for you, and that’s okay appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Ansel Iisaka is an industrial designer, watch lover, and European car enthusiast. Laid back with a thick beard, and often dressed in 1970s-esque attire, Iisaka doesn’t seem like your average mechanic, nor does he reveal much about his deep knowledge of watches. When asked about his propensity for both, he admits that growing up among the enthusiast cars that his father collected, drove hard, and cycled through may have caused him to feel “desensitized to rare or exotic cars.” Instead, he focused on what he calls, “really well-made, practical cars that I could use every day.” The first of these workhorse vehicles? A Volvo 240, one of the most iconic and reliable European cars ever built. Despite earning ASE certification in automotive service while still in high school, Iisaka chose to pursue the pen-and-paper side of his passion for mechanical artistry, and after completing a degree in industrial design, he found himself drafting concepts for several microbrand watch companies-an area he’d never considered before. While Iisaka states that he can’t reveal those projects due to contractual obligations, he has had a hand in designing field watches and vintage skin divers for a well-known microbrand. “I love all well-built mechanical things, especially those that were designed for longevity and repairability,” he explains. That appreciation for watches wasn’t immediate, though. It took a very special timepiece, handed down to him from his grandfather ...
Monochrome
Longines introduced its PrimaLuna collection of women’s watches in 2009 with a name designed to evoke the romantic nature of the Moon. However, unlike the PrimaLuna time-and-date models powered by automatic calibres, the PrimaLunas featuring moon phase complications were fitted with quartz movements that might not appeal to women who prefer mechanical movements. For 2025, […]
Fratello
For many, summer vacation is usually a time to travel, relax, and recharge for the second half of the year. Well, not for the people at Fears, it seems. The British brand introduces not one, not two, but three new watches today. The new Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose has a textured black and rose gold […] Visit Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES to read the full article.
Fratello
The first three iterations of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph were essentially watch equivalents of hypercars. Those chronographs, made of high-tech materials and unapologetically showing their highly tuned performance “engines,” came in bold, sporty colorways. The fourth version is different. Reference RDDBEX1138 comes in a pink gold and black DLC titanium case instead […] Visit Introducing: The 45mm Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Pink Gold And Black DLC Titanium to read the full article.
Monochrome
The name Toric at Parmigiani Fleurier carries great importance. It was, after all, the very first made by founder Michel Parmigiani when he decided to fly solo. An elegant watch characterised by its gadroons and knurled surfaces, it underwent a significant update last year with the launch of the new Toric collection. But more than just an […]
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Time+Tide
Christopher Ward has cut the thickness of its integrated sports watch with staggering results as it simplifies and refines. The post Christopher Ward has flattened The Twelve and it is the best version yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...
Fratello
Block September 2nd if you want to have a chance to wear a relatively affordable MB&F; collaboration watch on your wrist. On that day, at 2:00 PM CEST, the raffle for the M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” in three colorways will start. These M.A.D.Editions are the result of a collaboration with British-Nigerian artist and designer Yinka […] Visit Introducing: The M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” Water, Nature, And Sun - A Collaboration With Artist Yinka Ilori to read the full article.
Monochrome
The soul… This is what somehow defines independent watchmaking. Watches that have been designed and manufactured by individuals who have infused their soul into a timepiece that feels unique. On the topic of soul, design studio Massena LAB is presenting today its latest creation, a watch made with renowned and revered independent watchmaker Vianney Halter. […]
SJX Watches
Massena Lab’s latest collaboration is a steampunk regulator wristwatch created together with Vianney Halter. Blending the best of both their respective styles, the Old Soul is an unusual yet appealing proposition for collectors looking to get a sampling of the independent watchmaker’s best known works. The Old Soul displays the time regulator-style, with the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate registers. But it indicates the minutes with a clever trick: a “floating” minute pointer on a clear sapphire disc. Inside is a vintage Minerva movement that’s been dressed up for the occasion but still recognisable as an early-20th century calibre. Initial thoughts The Old Soul a continuation of the collection that began with the Old School made together with Luca Soprana. If Massena Lab founder William Rohr’s aesthetic sensibilities prevailed with the earlier watch, it is Mr Halter’s signature style that dominates the Old Soul. The Old Soul is unquestionably quirky - both as a whole and in the details. The watch looks like a regulator, but lacks the traditional vertical sub-dial arrangement. It also lacks a central minute hand, featuring instead a “floating” diamond-shaped pointer. The “floating” hand is a nifty optical illusion but it’s a straightforward concept that replaces the hand with a clear disc. Inside the piece ticks an equally unexpected movement, a “new old stock” Minerva cal. 17.22. According to Massena Lab, it was the discovery of a fo...
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