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Results for Movement vs Caliber

3,034 articles · 491 videos found · page 79 of 118

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – Feb 2, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I

Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz” Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz” Quartz Feb 1, 2024

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz”

Quartz is having something of a quiet comeback. After decades of scorn and contempt, many have come to appreciate the ease of use that quartz provides. Furthermore, not all quartz watches are the same. Today’s new Grand Seiko SBGX355, already nicknamed “Snowflake Quartz,” uses the brand’s famed 9F62 movement and comes in a highly wearable […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz” to read the full article.

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jan 30, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication

Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...

First Look – The Mighty Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Monochrome
Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy Jan 29, 2024

First Look – The Mighty Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System

The Hublot MP series is a collection of masterpieces characterized by their disruptive and highly technical take on Haute Horlogerie. The latest chapter in this story, initiated in 2011, is the Hublot Big Bang MP-10 Weight Energy System Titanium. Visually arresting and technically complex, this limited edition timepiece is powered by a movement displaying the […]

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (perhaps) by The Hand of the Horological God Himself, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Jan 28, 2024

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (perhaps) by The Hand of the Horological God Himself, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line.

Bulova Dress Up the Lunar Pilot with a Meteorite Dial SJX Watches
Bulova Dress Up Jan 26, 2024

Bulova Dress Up the Lunar Pilot with a Meteorite Dial

Something of an alternative “Moon” watch, the Bulova Lunar Pilot was unveiled eight years ago as a remake of the watch worn by American astronaut David Scott. It retains all the distinctive features of the original but made affordable thanks to a quartz movement. But now it’s a become a bit more luxe with a meteorite dial inside a scaled-down case. Initial thoughts As a space-watch aficionado, I find the Lunar Pilot more interesting than its more famous counterparts because of the unique yet contemporary design, particularly the modern typography on the chronograph registers. After its debut, the Lunar Pilot was made more wearable with a smaller case size of 43.5 mm in diameter. Not much has happened since then, either in terms of dial variety or other innovation, limiting its appeal beyond a niche audience. Therefore, the meteorite dial version is a welcome development, particularly since the material is still uncommon in this price segment. The meteorite edition, however, is pricey for the Lunar Pilot. It costs at US$1,495, a US$600 increase over the model with the standard dial. This price hike is arguably warranted since such dials are typically, but not always, found on more expensive timepieces. Despite being a limited edition, it is a run of 5,000 pieces, which isn’t exactly “limited”; a smaller edition size would have made it more compelling. A space rock dial David Scott’s own Bulova Chronograph ref. 88510/01 worn during the Apollo 15 mission in 1971...

First Look – The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic 39mm Blue PVD (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic 39mm Blue Jan 23, 2024

First Look – The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic 39mm Blue PVD (Incl. Video)

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon is a regular candidate in our buying guides dedicated to accessibly priced sports watches. With its 1970s-shaped sports watch vibe, integrated bracelet, easy strap exchange system, solid build, automatic movement and competitive price, the Aikon ticks the boxes associated with this popular segment. The latest model to join the family is […]

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jan 23, 2024

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon

The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner. Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings. At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, t...

Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat: Mechanical Compilation to the Extreme (Plus Video) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat Mechanical Compilation Jan 20, 2024

Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat: Mechanical Compilation to the Extreme (Plus Video) – Reprise

The Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat is a fantastic new mechanical smorgasbord introducing an evolution of the boutique brand’s developments combined together, hence the German name Aggregat ("aggregate"). Since seeing the movement in the summer of 2021 Joshua Munchow had been very much looking forward to its launch. He wasn't disappointed.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down Jan 18, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Slims Down the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve

Jaeger-LeCoultre begins the new year with an enhanced version of one of its signature watches, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve. While largely maintaining the design of the existing model, the new variant has a new look with a pink gold case, more cohesive styling and most notably, an upgraded movement with silicon parts and a longer power reserve. Initial thoughts Although present in the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) catalogue for over two decades in one form or another, the Master Ultra-Thin Power Reserve doesn’t get as much attention as its Master collection siblings, not to mention the famed Reverso. However, given the brand’s historical status as a vertically-integrated movement maker, the new Master Power Reserve plays to the JLC’s strengths since it retains the familiar design while installing all-new mechanics in the form of the cal. 938.  The update is a practical one, since the new calibre has a longer power reserve of three days. However, the update is not an accessible one from a price perspective, since this enhancement is currently exclusive to this boutique-only pink gold version and has not been extended to the steel model. The update will almost certainly make its way into the more affordable model some time in the future, so it’s a matter of waiting. JLC was historically known for its value-oriented pricing, an edge that has been dulled somewhat in recent years as its prices have crept upwards. This watch illustrates that, even if it is still priced ...

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands – Finally! Hodinkee
Omega Jan 11, 2024

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands – Finally!

Something strange happened in 2013. Omega released a new self-winding Speedmaster with its killer co-axial movement and called it the Speedmaster '57. It looked like the original reference 2915 from 1957 in so, so many ways, right down to the crown-guard-less, polished case, and steel bezel. It was, as I called it back then, a superb offering for someone looking for a vintage-looking watch with great styling but with modern technology at a great price, from a blue-chip brand. But one thing really bugged me about that watch – where were the broad-arrow hands? You call it a Speedmaster '57, and do everything right except give it its most identifiable trait? I didn't get it, I still don't, but it doesn't matter now because Omega went ahead and fixed that.

Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms” SJX Watches
Blancpain & Swatch Introduce Jan 10, 2024

Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms”

Just days a week into the new year, Blancpain and Swatch announce an all-black variation of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms, their affordable collaboration introduced last year. The Ocean of Storms retains all the distinctive features of the model, namely a 42.3 mm Bioceramic case containing the Sistem51 automatic movement fitted with a rotor bearing a nudibranch (a shell-less mollusc for those unfamiliar with esoteric marine creatures). Priced at US$400 as before, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting January 11, 2024. Initial thoughts When Swatch started teasing this new variant on social media, it seemed to be yet another one-off limited edition available for one day, like the MoonSwatch “Mission to Moonshine Gold” releases last year. However, as more details emerged, it became apparent that this was not the case as this will be part of the permanent collection, bringing the number of Scuba Fifty Fathoms models to an even six. At first glance, the Ocean of Storms bears a striking resemblance to last year’s Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary “Act 1”, a high-end watch that is an actual Blancpain, particularly with the date window and notched bezel. Nevertheless, adjustments to the design set it apart from its pricier cousins as well as its siblings in the Scuba line. It is clearly the most monochromatic and low-key of the range. Priced at US$400, the Ocean of Storms is priced the same as the other variants, retaining its fun and affordable appeal. However...

In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux’s True Constant-Force Escapement SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux s True Constant-Force Escapement Jan 3, 2024

In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux’s True Constant-Force Escapement

Ten years after it arrived on market, Girard-Perregaux revived its most notable modern-day invention with the Neo Constant Escapement. Operating on the same principles as the original, the Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) features an upgraded movement inside a more compact case. A combination of a historical concept originating with Abraham-Louis Breguet and cutting edge horology, the NCE retains the defining invention of the original – a true constant-force escapement. “True” because the constant-force mechanism, comprising a lozenge-shaped silicon spring, is integrated with the pallet lever, which in turn interacts with a “natural” escapement of twin escape wheels. While the key concept has been retained, the rest of the NCE, however, has been improved over the original, with wearability in particular having been enhanced. Initial thoughts The fundamental concept of the NCE is appealing because it successfully combines a significant historical invention, Breguet’s double-wheel escapement, with an innovation that is entirely 21st century, a compliant mechanism in silicon. Both are brought together in an elegant yet ingenious manner. The basis of the movement is Breguet’s échappement naturel, the “natural” escapement with two wheels that has been adopted in the modern day, in a variety of modified forms, by Voutilainen, F.P. Journe, and Charles Frodsham. But the natural escapement here has been enhanced with a constant force mechanism made up of a single pi...

Introducing – The Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day 2024 Monochrome
Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day Jan 3, 2024

Introducing – The Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day 2024

For Valentine’s Day 2024, Glashütte Original gives its Lady Serenade model a romantic makeover with diamonds and a delicate mother-of-pearl dial with gradient pink-hued numerals. Combining traditional Saxon pragmatism in the form of a robust stainless steel case and an in-house automatic movement, the three-hand-and-date Lady Serenade is a limited edition of 50 pieces. The […]

Looking Forward – Watchmaking Insiders’ Predictions for 2024 SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Twenty twenty-four might be Dec 29, 2023

Looking Forward – Watchmaking Insiders’ Predictions for 2024

Having looked back on the year that has just been, it’s now time to look ahead to see what 2024 may bring. To conclude the year we turned to notable industry figures to see what they think will unfold over the next 12 months. Looking to gain insights from the breadth of the industry, we posed the question to influential personalities in key segments, from independent watchmaking to luxury brands to movement specialists. Each of these individuals brings a unique perspective on the outlook for 2024. Jean Arnault Director of Watches, Louis Vuitton “Twenty twenty-four might be one of these foundational years that the industry will talk about for the decades to come. Interest rates and the global economic outlook have successfully cooled the frenzy around watches for most brands, and this will continue into 2024. Whether we see a scaled correction or a ‘soft landing’ will depend on Rolex’s management of the situation. Being such a dominant player among retailers, it will be the deciding factor for 2024.” Rexhep Rexhepi Founder, Akrivia “The last recent years of speculation in watchmaking astonished and sometimes frightened me. One of the biggest challenges will be to get back to normal times. I predict that the industry will refocus on enthusiasts and connoisseurs once again, since competition will definitely be fiercer.” Jean Arnault (left), and Rexhep Rexhepi. Image – GPHG and SJX Felix Baumgartner Co-founder, Urwerk “When [Martin Frei and I] started Urwer...