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Results for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

26,762 articles · 265 videos found · page 79 of 901

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Aug 28, 2023

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial

Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts  The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist.  Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like.  Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100.  This movement was presumably used because o...

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Seiko Announces Jul 5, 2023

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch

How many times can you go back to the well? If you’re Seiko, and the well is the 62MAS, the answer, apparently, is as many times as you’d like. Or, six. By my rough count, that’s how many re-editions of the historically important Seiko diver we’ve seen since 2017, when they began to really lean into the iconography of their first professional dive watch with the SLA017 along with the SPB051, setting a template for both limited edition, higher priced versions of the 62MAS reedition for collectors, and a more value oriented approach for everyday watch enthusiasts, an approach that was arguably perfected with the SPB143 and its many, many variants. Now, just announced, Seiko has revealed a new re-edition of the 62MAS that might be the closest yet to the aesthetic of the original, with a higher end movement that brings the watch into luxury territory.  The headline here is that the case size of the new SJE093 is the closest approximation yet to the original watch from 1965. It gets the diameter exactly right at 38mm, and, crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick. Those are nearly identical measurements to the original 62MAS, and a whole lot more slender than the reissues, and it’s thanks to a new caliber making its debut in this very watch.  The new caliber is the 6L37, which shares an architecture with the 6L35, but has been upgraded to be more durable and resistant to shocks. Seiko says this caliber was made expressly for divers. The “L” series movements are ...

Meet the Spaceman: A Popular Fashion Watch of the 1960s and 1970s that was Almost Forgotten in a Drawer – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 2, 2023

Meet the Spaceman: A Popular Fashion Watch of the 1960s and 1970s that was Almost Forgotten in a Drawer – Reprise

Launched in 1969, the Catena/Zeno Spaceman is special thanks to its funky design as well as its its fiberglass and chrome case. The Spaceman’s blend of ovals, curves, and straight lines was just right for that groovy time in fashion, touching a nerve in a hip watch-buying public. It was a polarizing watch: people generally either hated it or loved it at first sight, and remains so today. Here is the brief history of this fun vintage watch.

Only Watch is Upon Us Once Again, This Year Featuring Furlan Marri and the Debut of their Impressive Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Jun 29, 2023

Only Watch is Upon Us Once Again, This Year Featuring Furlan Marri and the Debut of their Impressive Perpetual Calendar

Only Watch, the biennial charity auction that finds an increasingly diverse set of brands offering one-off watches to the highest bidder, is back this year, and we’re starting to get word of the sale’s participants and the watches they’ll have on offer. You might recall that in 2021, we saw Baltic participate for the first time, which, in our opinion, not only elevated their status considerably, but the entire microbrand scene as well. For those of us who have followed and supported small, enthusiast driven brands for years, there was a certain amount of gratification in seeing one of our favorites getting worldwide, mainstream attention alongside the likes of Tudor and Patek Philippe. It was even better when we saw that Only Watch didn’t fundamentally change what Baltic stands for as a brand – they still make reasonably priced and attractive watches for hardcore collector and enthusiast types. This year’s slate of Only Watch participants features another small brand that we’ve been paying very close attention to since they first came on the scene just two years ago. Furlan Marri’s Only Watch debut caps what can only be described as a meteoric rise for the brand, and the somewhat mind blowing watch they’ve unveiled is genuinely unexpected and exciting.  Before we get into the weeds on the new Furlan Marri perpetual calendar – yes, their perpetual calendar – let’s back up a minute, because it’s important to understand the short history of the bran...

Opinion: Why Every Parent Needs a Tool Watch Worn & Wound
Citizen or something similar readily May 17, 2023

Opinion: Why Every Parent Needs a Tool Watch

Last week my son was pretending to be a wolf in the kitchen (as four-year-olds do). Inevitably, he face-planted on the tile floor and suffered a bloody snout. As I scooped up my wounded canine, blood poured down my arm, shoulder to hand.  I wear a dive watch most days, and this day was no exception. After Googling “How to stop a bloody nose,” I rotated the count-up bezel and prepared to pinch both nostrils shut for 10 minutes. The usually crisp bezel action felt… sticky. I looked down to realize bodily fluids had covered my watch, collecting on every textured surface: the depressed markers on the modified bezel, the crown ridges, and between bracelet links.  With only one free arm, I did not dare risk opening the nasal floodgates to remove my watch. After the minute hand safely crossed the stained 10-minute marker, I gave my watch a quick bath in the sink. It thanked me for the brief excitement and continued its primary function of keeping time until the next time it would be called to action, likely in the near future. After all, kids are gross. My watches are accustomed to poorly aimed sneezes and spilled glasses of milk. PSA: never buy a used watch from me. Prior to 2020, I wore dress watches to a shared office. Usually a time-only Citizen or something similar readily available at the local mall. As a bearded guy with mop of unruly hair, a shiny 38mm dress watch was my lazy attempt to look the part. This self-imposed pressure dissipated with the sudden shift to...

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement Worn & Wound
May 15, 2023

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement

New watch brands pop up all the time, but it’s less frequent that they arrive with fully realized and distinct design language right from the jump. Usually it takes time for a brand to kind of settle into itself, work out the kinks, and figure out what it is that makes them different from their many, many competitors. Aera is a British brand that came onto the scene last year with their D-1 (a diver) and P-1 (a pilot’s watch), and have just announced a pair of follow up references that are very much in the same vein, but have some subtle improvements as well. At first glance, Aera’s watches look almost run-of-the-mill, but a glance at the specs and a closer look at the dial design and small details of how each component hangs together reveal watches that actually inhabit a unique space in the enthusiast market. In short, these watches are big in every sense of the word. They have unapologetically large 43mm 904L steel cases and come in at 16mm and 15mm thick (for the diver and pilot’s watch, respectively) thanks to dramatically domed, double curved sapphire crystals. There’s a bulbous quality to the case design that recalls Ikepod, and when I had a chance to briefly wear a D-1 last year I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable it was for a watch that would normally be outside the limits of what I’d wear on a regular basis in terms of size alone.  But they’re big in other ways too. The curved dials have large openings, much bigger than what you’d norma...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions Time+Tide
Hublot drops two new special Apr 14, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions

Earlier in the week it was revealed an incredibly significant pocket watch is about to hit the auction block, and, closing out the week, Hublot, even after a ton of novelty drops at Watches & Wonders, announced two new special editions. A fair bit to discuss, let’s jump right into it. Phillips to auction historically … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet makes Feb 3, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023

We have yet to lose novelty steam in 2023, so once again we have a fair bit of news from the week to recap. Vamos! Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet makes its first-ever debut in stainless steel Steel makes its first ever-debut in the Code 11.59 collection, resulting in a new lower CHF 21,000 entry … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Worn & Wound
Sinn Damasko UTS Archimede Jan 25, 2023

Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII

Dievas is a cult microbrand even to those who are fans of cult microbrands. Founded in 2006, they are one of the OG independent tool watch brands. Following in the footsteps of Sinn, Damasko, UTS, Archimede, and others, Dievas’s focus is on tactical, modern, overbuilt, high-spec sports watches that are made in Germany. Still a rare origin of manufacture, Germany conjures a notion of precision, quality, and value that perhaps even surpasses Switzerland (especially in value). This is particularly different as Dievas was created by the team behind Gnomon Watches, a Singaporean retailer. At the very end of 2022, Dievas announced a new model, the Maya MKIII, after several years of being relatively dormant (models were for sale via Gnomon, but no new launches). As the name suggests, the new watch is the third iteration of the brand’s popular, tactical dive watch, the Maya. Redesigned from the ground up, the MKIII is smaller, sleeker, and more affordable, while maintaining some very impressive specs and features. Priced at $1,090 on a strap and $1,240 on a bracelet, the German-made Maya MKIII is available in black, blue, and Sealab green. The latter, featured in this review, is not only different in color but in dial and bezel insert design as well, making it an outlier in the collection. $1090 Hands-On with the Dievas Maya MKIII Case Matte Stainless Steel w/ Clear DLC Movement Sellita SW-200 Dial Metallic Green Sandwich Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet Water Resistance ...

HANDS-ON: The Yema Navygraf Forces Sous-Marines is a dive watch brimming with ’70s charm Time+Tide
Yema Sep 8, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Yema Navygraf Forces Sous-Marines is a dive watch brimming with ’70s charm

One of my very first articles for Time+Tide was a short overview on Yema and their key models, and since then their growth has been meteoric. Although they now hardly need any introduction as one of the most popular microbrands, the French brand has mastered their own niche within the dive watch scene. Both then … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Yema Navygraf Forces Sous-Marines is a dive watch brimming with ’70s charm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ricardo’s Top 5 from Geneva Watch Days 2022 Time+Tide
Sep 4, 2022

Ricardo’s Top 5 from Geneva Watch Days 2022

Welcome to Geneva Watch Days 2022. Slotted perfectly as a summer send off just as we start coming back from those much needed vacations, this year’s fair has lived up to it’s “last treat before returning to the real world” timing. Dozens of brands have come packing new heat as well as some much wanted … ContinuedThe post Ricardo’s Top 5 from Geneva Watch Days 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Aug 13, 2022

OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices?

For the last month every publication under the sun has seen a traffic gold-mine in the purported “collapse” in secondary pricing for “hype” watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe among others. Even we tackled the subject with our own reader-alluring doom and gloom headline. But, after fully digesting the situation, I am beginning … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why… Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered Aug 13, 2022

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why…

Responding to the admittedly fair criticism of offering a sports watch with just 30-metre water-resistance , Bulgari created the S line, with a slightly thicker steel case and screw-down crown, upping the water resistance to 100 metres. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered opts for an exercise in supreme subtlety, as the dials adopt the sublime … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO:  Unpacking why the Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch is out of this world Time+Tide
Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch Mar 24, 2022

VIDEO:  Unpacking why the Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch is out of this world

We’re going to call it a space oddity. Albeit it a very welcome one at that. But today’s news that Omega have teamed up with Swatch to create a playful take on the Speedmaster Chronograph in the form of the BioCeramic MoonSwatch has caught the watch world by surprise. In the one corner there’s Omega, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO:  Unpacking why the Omega x Swatch BioCeramic MoonSwatch is out of this world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection Time+Tide
Omega x Swatch blast off Mar 23, 2022

Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection

Standing in the Omega HQ in Bienne, Petros Protopapas is visibly excited. The Brand Heritage Director of Omega is holding forth under a vast cosmic backdrop that depicts the planets in technicolour detail in a star-lit sky. “This revolutionises the Swiss watch industry for me,” declares Petros with tangible emotion in his voice. “This is what … ContinuedThe post Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Connected collection (#6) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected collection #6 Editor’s Jan 19, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Connected collection (#6)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the TAG Heuer Connected collection at number 6… It’s fair to say that … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The TAG Heuer Connected collection (#6) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021 Time+Tide
Jan 3, 2022

“Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021

Last year, as Melbourne achieved the dubious victory of edging out Buenos Aires to endure the longest hard lockdown in the world, I was mostly working from home. Dear reader, it’s fair to say that during this period, sartorial standards took a sharp nosedive. I couldn’t get a haircut for almost five months and, at … ContinuedThe post “Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Deployant
Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Dec 18, 2021

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph

The new Blancpain Air Command rides the waves of its predecessor but somehow lacks the finesse of the black dial model. Limited to 500 pieces, the 2019 model is mostly sold out if not completely sold out in stores. The new model benefits from it being a lighter and stronger material - titanium, and for those who prefer a subtler look, has a mostly matte finished case. In and of itself, the watch design is nicely executed and has a great movement behind it. And for those who prefer a blue dial over a black dial, a contemporary look over a homage, the new blue dial variant might be a better choice. But for those who prefer a more historically reminiscent timepiece, the 2019 homage would still be the leader of the pack.

CODE41: The subversive watch brand that dared to tell the truth and its latest crazy idea… Time+Tide
Dec 9, 2021

CODE41: The subversive watch brand that dared to tell the truth and its latest crazy idea…

Interviewing the CEOs of watch brands can prove to be a tiring business.  You have to circumnavigate all that smiling evasion, the confected optimism and promises for exciting releases “coming soon but which we can’t talk about yet”. Claudio D’Amore, the CEO of CODE 41, is very different.  While most of the watch industry relies … ContinuedThe post CODE41: The subversive watch brand that dared to tell the truth and its latest crazy idea… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem Nov 4, 2021

Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year?

What’s been the most visually bonkers watch of the year? Possible contenders would have to include the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem and the MB&F; M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project. But fresh competition now comes in the form of the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021. To be fair, the dial of the original Zenith … ContinuedThe post Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms which Oct 19, 2021

Peren Introduces the Nera Rogue Diver

Founded by Romanian native Andy Bica-Popi but based in Switzerland, Peren styles itself as a Transylvanian watch brand. The micro-brand’s offerings are characterised by a clean, functional aesthetic, a style encapsulated by the Nera Rogue. Peren’s first dive watch is loosely inspired by the Tornek-Rayville TR-900, a rare and obscure dive watch that’s actually a rebadged Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which the Swiss watchmaker made for its American agent who in turn supplied them to the US Navy in the 1960s. Utilitarian and cleanly styled, the Nera Rogue takes after the TR-900, which is reflected in the hour markers and bezel, but is evidently not a vintage remake. And in a nod to today’s fashionable colour, the Nera Rogue has dark-green dial. Initial thoughts Granted, the population of micro-brands is ever increasing, especially those making dive watches, but a handful are both interesting and affordable enough to be worth a second look. Since micro-brands typically rely on the same few outsourced movements (often Sellita or Miyota), it falls to design to distinguish one from another. And Peren manages to set itself apart – albeit only on the second try. The Nera Rogue is actually Peren’s second go at the design. What’s really new on the Nera Rogue is actually its bezel – which is the primary element inspired by the TR-900 – while the rest of the watch is actually identical to a past model known as the Nera that was equipped with a smooth, unmarked bezel, m...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps… Time+Tide
Oct 15, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps…

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen I recently received my Kurono SEIJI watch. If you are unfamiliar with the watch you can check out my initial coverage here, although in the coming weeks I will be sure to do an owner’s review. For some context, the watch was initially launched with … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Zach gets het up about watch clasps… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II

What can one infer from a drawing of a new timepiece? As it turns out, a fair bit. The below sketch is the only bit of information revealed by Akrivia for its contribution to Only Watch 2021, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII). Despite the paucity of information, much can still be deduced from the single image. Initial impressions The most apparent fact that can be gleaned the sketch is a deadbeat seconds – a seconds hand that jumps discretely once a second. We can infer this from the star and flirt mechanism. The star is mounted on the escape wheel, which is located at six o’clock and completes a revolution once every five seconds. The star blocks the rotation of a flirt, a long lever that presses against the face of the star’s teeth. After each second, the star rotates far enough that the tooth provides enough clearance to release the flirt, allowing the star to rotate until the flirt contacts the next tooth of the star. This sudden release of the flirt is what controls the burst of rotational energy that drives the deadbeat second geartrain. Further inferences can be made from our May 2020 chat with Rexhep, where he hinted the RRCCII will have twin barrels powering separate going trains. In retrospect, that now makes sense in the context of the deadbeat seconds. One barrel drives the going train for timekeeping, including the escape wheel and the star. The other barrel drives a secondary gear train for the deadbeat seconds hand and the flirt...

Can’t afford a $100m Picasso painting? What about his watch instead? Time+Tide
May 18, 2021

Can’t afford a $100m Picasso painting? What about his watch instead?

Last Thursday, Christies sold Picasso’s Woman Sitting by a Window in New York for USD$103.4M, the bidding lasting a full 19 minutes. This was the fifth Picasso to sell for more than USD$100M and a sign that the Málaga-born artist is as popular as ever. But while demand for his artwork is white-hot, a Picasso watch … ContinuedThe post Can’t afford a $100m Picasso painting? What about his watch instead? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.