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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Bulgari Lightens the Octo Finissimo Chronograph with a Strap SJX Watches
Bulgari Lightens Feb 16, 2021

Bulgari Lightens the Octo Finissimo Chronograph with a Strap

Bulgari’s race to the flattest started in 2014, when it started unveiling one complication after another of record-setting slimness, culminating with the thinnest-ever automatic chronograph two years ago. While the original version is monochromatic and all titanium, the new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium is a twist on the theme. It’s fitted to an integrated rubber  strap, in a first for the model that leaves it even more featherweight. Initial thoughts Admittedly – at least from a technical standpoint – the new Octo chronograph isn’t as exciting as it was when the model was first launched. This is just a facelift, but it’s a good one. Though similar to earlier versions of the Octo chronograph, the new model stands out for its palette, which arguably gives it more wrist presence. The original version has an integrated metal bracelet that flowed well in terms of visual continuity. But the strap is compelling for the opposite reason: it makes the extra-thin case stand out, increasing the visual contrast while making the watch look a bit fancier. The elimination of the bracelet will surely change its tangible feel on the wrist substantially. Because of the lightweight materials – a titanium case and strap in rubber – the watch will feel almost non-existent on wrist, taking the ultra-thin nature of the Octo one step forward. And like the time-only version of the Octo, the Chronograph is fairly priced in most iterations. This costs US$17,200, making i...

Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium Feb 16, 2021

Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium

When Longines first remade a 1970s pilot’s chronograph as the Avigation BigEye Chronograph, it was well received for being a faithful re-interpretation priced affordably, as most other Longines reissues are. While the 2017 model was a dead ringer for the vintage original, Longines has just facelifted the watch, giving it a titanium case and gradient blue dial. That gives the Avigation BigEye Titanium more modern look, which along with the upgraded case, results in a steeper price that’s about a quarter more than that of the steel model. Initial thoughts Longines has been hitting it out of the park with its recent remakes – the Silver Arrow, Classic “Tuxedo” Chronograph, and Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial – that are smartly designed and good value, and despite the hike in price, BigEye Titanium is no exception. While the steel BigEye had a utilitarian look like the 1970s original, the titanium version is decidedly more contemporary. The gradient blue dial is bold, and also fashionable today, with a sandblasted texture adding further visual intrigue. I like the juxtaposition of the black sub-dials against the blue gradient finish, though the faux patina on the hands and indices might be a bit too affected, especially with the modern look. Despite the tweaks, the BigEye Titanium retains the same legible design, thus preserving the historical raison d’etre of its design. Another notable feature is the titanium case, which makes the new BigEye the brand...

INTRODUCING: The Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT has a textured dial with a bubbly personality Time+Tide
Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT Feb 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT has a textured dial with a bubbly personality

Oris has always harboured a deep respect for the environment and supported efforts to protect the ocean and sea life therein. This isn’t a tokenistic move either. The brand really puts their money where their mouth is, aiming to become CO2 neutral by 2021 and incorporating recycled materials in both their watches and their packaging. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Whale Shark Aquis GMT has a textured dial with a bubbly personality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a collaboration that makes perfect sense Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Feb 16, 2021

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a collaboration that makes perfect sense

Collaboration has become the name of the game. Be it in music, fashion or watchmaking, we’ve never seen such a diverse meeting of minds from around the world. But many collaborations leave you scratching your head, especially when two brands that have nothing in common come together to make a product that doesn’t make sense. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a collaboration that makes perfect sense appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal Time+Tide
Patek Philippe sales Feb 15, 2021

Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal

Yessir, the cone of silence surrounding the manufacture of Patek Philippe has lifted twice in a week. The brand are surfing atop of a media wave of their own making. Only last week we reported first on the discontinuation of the already near-impossible to get Nautilus ref. 5711, and in our story here we shared … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GLX5600 Surf Life Saving Australia edition might just be the perfect beach watch Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GLX5600 Surf Life Feb 14, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GLX5600 Surf Life Saving Australia edition might just be the perfect beach watch

G-Shock are good at a lot, but there’s one thing they know how to do better than most. Collaborations. That’s right, the humble Casio G-Shock continues to be one of the top everyman’s watches thanks to the unrelenting number of creative collaborations that they produce. Their most recent collaboration might be one of their best … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GLX5600 Surf Life Saving Australia edition might just be the perfect beach watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer 2021 Deployant
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Feb 13, 2021

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer 2021

Omega released the latest update to the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional chronograph early this year with some much appreciated upgrades. Several changes were made to the dial and case, but most notably, the movement is now co-axial and anti-magnetic. For speedy owners, a magnetised Speedmaster happens once ever so often and can be quite a pain sometimes. Apart from its technical improvement, the new iteration also features several design updates to the dial and case.

Massena Lab Quietly Drops a Prototype Series of Chronographs SJX Watches
Massena Lab Quietly Drops Feb 13, 2021

Massena Lab Quietly Drops a Prototype Series of Chronographs

Having gotten its start with collaborations with brands like Habring2, Massena introduced its first wristwatch under its own name last year. Now it’s following up with a hush-hush launch of the Archetype 0.0, a “pre-series prototype” watch that’s neither a limited edition nor regular production. Like the earlier Uni-Racer, the Archetype 0.0 is a vintage-style chronograph conceived with an eye for details that only an enthusiast would appreciate. But unlike its predecessor, the Archetype 0.0 isn’t modelled on a specific vintage watch, instead it is a blend of elements that give it a mid-20th century air, while also having modern conveniences like a 100 m water-resistance rating and a domed sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts The Archetype 0.0 has a “sector” dial with a gilt finish – glossy black lacquer with gold print – a perennial favourite that’s not novel but always appealing. Similar dials are attempted often, but because Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a veteran watch collector and industry insider, the Archetype 0.0 gets even the smallest elements right. The numerals, for instance, have tiny serifs, while the six is “open”, as they would be on vintage watches. And the darker print for the logo and sub-dials is another delightful detail. Although vintage in style, the case is unusual in that it’s not usually found with gilt, “sector” dials in vintage watches, making the combination novel in a subtle manner. Notably, the case is rated t...

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review Feb 12, 2021

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review

Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch  Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey  Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10  Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date.  Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...

SPOTTED: The Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 sighted prowling in the wild Time+Tide
Feb 11, 2021

SPOTTED: The Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 sighted prowling in the wild

Want to know one of the highlights of 2020 for me? The Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 of course. It was the first collaboration watch that Time+Tide has ever produced, and it was a thrill to be a part of the team that saw it come to life. But what’s been even more exciting than … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: The Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 sighted prowling in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Farer Lomond shakes up the field watch with perky blasts of colour Time+Tide
Farer Lomond shakes up Feb 11, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Farer Lomond shakes up the field watch with perky blasts of colour

With its catalogue of very British watches, Farer has quickly developed a solid following among enthusiasts. Yet they were only established in 2015, when they made a proper mark on the microbrand scene with their colourful Universal series. The brand is now endeavouring to shake up the field watch, a category that tends to be … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Farer Lomond shakes up the field watch with perky blasts of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Collecting: A City Landmark Immortalised by Voutilainen SJX Watches
Voutilainen Feb 11, 2021

Collecting: A City Landmark Immortalised by Voutilainen

An American collector recently got in touch to share a recently completed Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a custom dial, a watch that’s unusual and interesting, while also having a thoroughly personal character. Christened the Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge Watch, this unique Vingt-8 is a memento of the owner’s home state of Minnesota and its port city of Duluth. Spanning the canal that leads to the Port of Duluth, the Aerial Lift Bridge is a local landmark that can be raised to its full height of 135 feet in order to allow taller ships to pass underneath. Engraved entirely by hand, the dial depicts the Aerial Lift Bridge and a steamship sailing past. It forms the centrepiece of an elaborately decorated Vingt-8 that is also notably discreet in its serene blue and silver colours. Though the owner now lives in a different state, Minnesota holds a special place in his heart. “We are Minnesota residents and have spent a lot of time in Duluth as a family over the years,” explains the owner, “It is one of the most beautiful and scenic places in the country, right on Lake Superior, the largest fresh water lake in the world.” “Seeing the magnificence of these large ocean going ships pass through a very narrow canal under the bridge as they go into the Duluth harbour is truly a sight to behold,” continues the owner, “I have spent a lot of time photographing ships as they pass under the bridge as they come in and out of the harbour.” “I started thinking seriously about ...

Bridgerton’s Regé-Jean Page exudes Big Duke Energy with a Cartier Santos Dumont on The Graham Norton Show Time+Tide
Cartier Santos Dumont Feb 9, 2021

Bridgerton’s Regé-Jean Page exudes Big Duke Energy with a Cartier Santos Dumont on The Graham Norton Show

Bridgerton has taken Netflix by storm to become a massive streaming success. The costume drama blends Victorian and modern elements, combining balls and parties with classical covers of Billie Ailish and Arianna Grande. On the back of some particularly racy sex scenes, actor Regé-Jean Page –  who plays the reluctant Duke of Hastings – has … ContinuedThe post Bridgerton’s Regé-Jean Page exudes Big Duke Energy with a Cartier Santos Dumont on The Graham Norton Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The crazy tale of the pimp, the ransom and the lost F.P Journe watch worth $100,000 Time+Tide
F.P. Journe Feb 8, 2021

The crazy tale of the pimp, the ransom and the lost F.P Journe watch worth $100,000

Talk about a conversation piece. The loss and eventual return, against all odds, of a F.P Journe Centigraphe S, now worth $100,000 USD, was a tale that made my jaw drop. Particularly given it involved a pimp, a ransom and a desperate chase to be reunited with this watch of a lifetime. The man at … ContinuedThe post The crazy tale of the pimp, the ransom and the lost F.P Journe watch worth $100,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Unveils the Forest-Green Prospex Anniversary Divers SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Feb 8, 2021

Seiko Unveils the Forest-Green Prospex Anniversary Divers

With 2021 being its 140th anniversary, Seiko is going all out to commemorate the milestone. Getting an early start with the first anniversary edition announced last year, the Japanese watchmaker kicked off the series with a Grand Seiko in rose gold, followed by a revival of the King Seiko. Now it has just announced a trio of Prospex dive watches, made up of a pair of automatics (SLA047 and SPB207), and a solar-powered chronograph (SSC807). Inspired by Iriomote Island – a popular spot for recreational diving – the new Prospex watches feature vibrant, metallic green dials meant to evoke the lush landscape of the island in Okinawa. Initial thoughts The anniversary divers are good value for money, as most Seiko watches are, and also have the bonus of an appealing dial colour. But as is often the case with newer Seiko limited edition models, each of the new divers is merely one of many similar editions, which makes them less special individually. The priciest model is the Prospex Automatic Diver’s SLA047, a Marinemaster 300 m diver based on the Hi-Beat diver of 1968. A top-of-the-line dive watch, the SLA047 is powered by the 8L35, essentially a simpler version of the 9S55 Grand Seiko movement. And like Seiko’s other high-end mechanical watches, it is produced in the Shizukuishi facility, which is also home to the workshop for mechanical Grand Seiko watches. Other highlights include a 300 m water-resistance rating thanks in part to an unusual monocoque case, and a ce...

Insight: Patents in Watchmaking SJX Watches
Omega Feb 8, 2021

Insight: Patents in Watchmaking

Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...

HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight? Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos Feb 8, 2021

HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight?

Value is a key buzzword in the watch world. Considering this is a luxury industry, any proposition that poses an opportunity to get more than you paid for inspires awe and intrigue from buyers worldwide – and rightfully so. At the same time, Rolex can be a challenging brand for new consumers. The ability to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

PHOTO ESSAY: Surfing, trail runs and leaning on fences with Farer in the Great British Outdoors Time+Tide
Farer Feb 6, 2021

PHOTO ESSAY: Surfing, trail runs and leaning on fences with Farer in the Great British Outdoors

When it comes to being in the middle of nature, surrounded by water, land or sheep, all you need from a watch – durability aside – is the time. Simple and uncomplicated, it’s why the field watch remains the timepiece of choice for casual watch wearers with a sense of adventure. With that in mind, … ContinuedThe post PHOTO ESSAY: Surfing, trail runs and leaning on fences with Farer in the Great British Outdoors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.