Hodinkee
Happenings: Hodinkee Is Hosting A Meet-Up In Atlanta, So Come On Down
Our unofficial world tour of events continues, and we'd love to see you there.
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Hodinkee
Our unofficial world tour of events continues, and we'd love to see you there.
Time+Tide
In modern times, the words “stealth wealth” get thrown around a lot. Usually reserved for sophisticated watches often made of white metals like platinum, the idea is that your watch only hints at its true value. On the completely opposite end of the spectrum, there are those cheap watches that do everything they can to … ContinuedThe post You paid how much?? Five watches that look cheaper than they are appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I get it, it’s the end of the week and you are probably rushing off to the pub to down a pint or slump on the couch to binge the latest Netflix series. But, before you wind down, here are three watch world highlights you may have missed. Massena HOUSE to be a new hub … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Massena HOUSE, Father’s Day watchmaking class coming to UK and Ferragamo watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Maria and Richard Habring of Habring² have long been revered as underappreciated makers of very fine timepieces, with the Austrian outfit a long-time enthusiast favourite. The topic of today’s story is their latest take on the new Habring² Doppel 38, made alongside previous collaborators Monochrome Watches, a Netherlands-based online watch magazine, run by watch nerd … ContinuedThe post Monochrome and Habring² team up for charity with the unique Doppel 38 Salmon Sector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Are you ready for the final frontier? Or rather, the next frontier? A new frontier, at the very least? Yes, all signs point to a big change in the world of watches on the horizon. A new world, or I guess frontier to be consistent, where you don’t have to win the lotto, inherit tons of wealth, or be uncommonly successful to buy an exotic watch. A world where brands that were once considered too small to matter are standing their ground against giants, showing that with a passion for watches and an innovative spirit, the seemingly impossible can occur. This is a very dramatic way of saying that there have been some cool releases in the last few years that have been accelerating in their frequency, indicating the beginning of a new trend of the previously “exotic” becoming more obtainable. We’ve seen affordable wandering hours pop up for a few years from the likes of Gorilla and Atowak. We’ve seen unexpected collaborations between approachable brands and high-end independents like Louis Erard and Vianney Halter. We’ve seen high-end independents branch out into the approachable space with offshoots like Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoke, SUF Helsinki by Stepan Sarpaneva, and M.A.D. Editions by Max Büsser. We’ve seen Christopher Ward shock the world by releasing a dial-side sonnerie au passage with the C1 Bel Canto. We’ve seen more too, so perhaps the trend is already here. Reinforcing this is the subject of today’s review, the Argon Space One. The first watch by...
Time+Tide
At Tudor’s booth this year, the theme was evolution not revolution. While the titanium Pelagos 39 intensely stirred the best-modern-luxury-dive-watch pot, the brand’s main Watches & Wonders focus was the Black Bay range. Watch Andrew’s and Zach’s live reactions to the new releases below, and read on for a quick summary of each. Tudor Black … ContinuedThe post Why Tudor stole the show at W&W; 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
For the last year, Swatch has existed primarily as the brand that makes and sells the MoonSwatch, their enormous, crossover hit made in partnership with Omega. It’s tough to underestimate the impact of the MoonSwatch on the watch world, mostly because its impact transcends the watch world. Your friends and family who are not part of the hobby, don’t read this site and others like it, and may not even own a watch, are almost certainly aware of the MoonSwatch. They’ve seen an advertisement for it, or have heard about it on the news, or perhaps they’ve stumbled onto the impressive MoonSwatch displays in a Swatch store, only to be told that the watches aren’t actually available to buy. Swatch has recently upped the ante somewhat on the MoonSwatch front by offering extremely limited versions with gold plated seconds hands, and it has me (and others) wondering if the hype for these watches has crested, and longing for Swatch to go back to making really cool Swatches like the ones so many of us grew up with. The truth is, Swatch never stopped making exactly those kinds of watches, but they’ve been somewhat lost in the hysteria for the MoonSwatch. Now, though, comes a series of watches that I think might actually rival the MoonSwatch in terms of enthusiast interest, at least in some quarters. The latest entry in the Swatch Art Journey collection (that has already seen releases this year with watches based on pieces by Roy Lichtenstein, René Magritte, and others) is ...
Deployant
Louis Moinet creates a real work of art with their new Savanna Tourbillon - with hand painted artisanal dials which are assembled in 4 layers.
Grail Watch collaborated with Delugs on straps for Grail Watch 8: Kudoke 2 ‘Starry Night.’ Constant got together with Ashley, the Operation Executive of Delugs, to take a closer look into Delugs CTS Rubber strap and the Babele Denim Leather strap, both of which will be included in this amazing collaboration.
Time+Tide
Do you want to look at pictures of sliced bread stapled to a tree? Are you intrigued by the inner monologue of shoplifters? Keen to discuss the advantages of carrying around sand in your pockets? Luckily, Reddit has got you covered. Built to be “the front page of the internet”, as you’re probably aware, Reddit … ContinuedThe post Reddit: The best subreddits for watch nerds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Swatch x Jean-Michel Basquiat collection marks the final collaboration of the Art Journey project Previous collaborations were with MoMA, Magritte, Louvre Abu Dhabi, and Le Gallerie Degli Uffizi The triptych includes three quartz-driven pieces inspired by Basquiat’s ‘Ishtar’, ‘Untitled’, and ‘Hollywood Africans’ artworks Swatch as a brand, not the conglomerate group, is widely credited … ContinuedThe post Swatch wraps up their 2023 Art Journey with new Jean-Michel Basquiat triptych appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
As I was considering how to begin this review, I found myself thinking about my own perception of how micro-brands get their start. Many of my favorite brands seem to come to life fully formed, with a watch or small collection that would appear to completely distill their essence, as if they’ve already gone through every possible growing pain. In the past few months I’ve come across more and more brands that seem to have figured it out immediately, with introductory watches that appear to be the product of a seasoned brand. Atmoss is the latest brand to make me feel this way with its debut watch, the SR-01. A clean and comfortable design presented as being a modern interpretation of a traditional pilot watch. One that has enough of what matters and none of what doesn’t, at least in my opinion. While pilot watches are not my primary focus as an enthusiast and collector, the SR-01 wound up winning me over, and has a suite of impressive specs that make it a legitimate entry into the genre at a price point that makes sense for those who might want to dabble in a watch with an aviation theme. The Right Specifications for the Right Price Although I try as much as possible to not put the words “specifications” and “price” in the same sentence, sometimes it’s impossible not to. Especially when the price tag of a watch falls well below the $500 mark. The SR-01 has a lot going for it considering its accessibility. First, reasonable dimensions with a case diameter...
Teddy Baldassarre
Dive watches, as many of their enthusiasts know, are not generally known for being understated in their dimensions. This is, of course, by design, and in the service of both legibility and safety. To be used underwater, often in very dark conditions, a watch needs to be sizable enough (as well as luminous enough) for the wearer to discern both the time on the main hands as well as the remaining immersion period as set on the dive scale bezel. For these and other practical reasons, most watches built for diving tend to come in at 40mm and above in diameter. However, as the dive watch has become more a fashion statement and less a wearable tool - for ladies as well as gents - watchmakers have responded by downsizing some of their popular divers to offer more choices for a wider range of wearers, including those who will likely never wear their timepiece underwater. In some cases, the designs of these more modestly sized dive watches are even drawn from the brands’ archives, from historical eras in which smaller sizes were the norm, even for purpose-built tool watches like those made for divers. Using a 40mm diameter as our upper limit of “small,” here are 21 small dive watches, in ascending order of price, all of which combine professional-grade water resistance (at least 100 meters) with unisex appeal. Vostok Amphibia Price: $99, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 15mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Vostok Caliber 2416 Th...
Deployant
Here is our hands-on comprehensive review of the new Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in titanium, launched recently in Watches & Wonders 2023.
Hodinkee
With US-inspired stylings and big dreams for the future of American watchmaking, MEC has started out strong.
Time+Tide
These days, for a manufacture not to have an integrated watch design is a bit like not having a smartphone. Sure, there may be a bit of respect for these flip-phone manufactures resisting the trend and times. But, ultimately, in the midst of the craze, having a solid integrated sports watch within a manufacture portfolio … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Speake-Marin Ripples Blue Jeans & Ripples Date bring new colour and complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Zodiac continues to plumb the depths of their archives with their latest release, the Sea-Chron chronograph. Originating in the 1960s, the Sea-Chron was a natural extension of the Sea Wolf, a platform that Zodiac has returned to in recent years to great success. This sporty diver’s chronograph picks up on a lot of the aesthetic cues of the classic Sea Wolf, but has some key technical upgrades that put it squarely in modern watch territory. It also fills a fairly wide hole in the Zodiac catalog – it’s hard to believe, but up until this week, they didn’t have a chronograph in their collection. Zodiac envisions the Sea-Chron as a true multipurpose sports watch. Like their dive watches, the Sea-Chron has a full 200 meters of water resistance, and the case has been outfitted with a timing bezel with a twenty minute interval. Inside the timing bezel and at the dial’s perimeter, you’ll find a tachymeter that can be used completely independently of the Sea-Chron’s dive timing features. The handset is the familiar Zodiac fence post design, and squared off apertures with lume underneath for the hours, except at 3, 6 and 9, where you’ll find the sub registers for minute and hour totalizations, and a running seconds indicator. There are two variants of the Sea-Chron available at launch. One in a clean black and white colorway that would appear to prize legibility above all else. This version has a black base dial and white subdials, and, crucially, a white tachymet...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: What if? It can be a prefix of imagination, wonder and hope. On the other side of the coin, it can also provoke a melancholy game of hindsight. But within this new column, it is simply a space for us to experiment with our curiosity. Marvel fans will be familiar with the thought-provoking … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The transformation of Bravur, the small Swedish microbrand that has always taken a demonstrably Scandinavian approach to their watch designs, into a boutique label focusing largely on cycling influenced watches, has to be one of the least expected developments in our space over the past few years. Maybe it shouldn’t have been, though. Brand founders Magnus Äppelryd and Johan Sahlin are both cycling enthusiasts, and the design inspiration for their watches has always come from a personal place. Maybe it was only a matter of time? Of course, not all of the watches in their collection are cycling inspired, but limited edition chronographs released to mark major pro cycling races have become something of an expectation at this point, and it has changed the brand identity in a real way. The latest watch in this vein, the La Corsa Rosa III, continues the trend while establishing some new design notes as well. I’ll come right out and say at the outset that I am not a cycling enthusiast. I don’t even really keep up with following cycling’s professional ranks in a casual way. I think that means I’m probably not the target market for these watches, but I have to say, I’ve always been really fond of them. I love watches that appeal to a very specific niche, the narrower the better, and these seem to fit that bill nicely. I’m also a big fan of the creative use of color on watch dials, and the general format Bravur has followed by borrowing traditional colors associate...
Deployant
Urwerk extends their popular UR-100 collection with the new UR-100V Magic T, using touches of bright colours to highlight the metallic grey watch.
Time+Tide
The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba adds green to its 43mm and 37mm variants. The 43mm version is a full-spec dive watch with 300m of water resistance. A budget option is available in the 37mm reference, with a quartz movement and NATO strap. Hamilton’s world has revolved around the Khaki Field for several years now, with … ContinuedThe post New Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba watches come in one green colour, but two sizes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Five years is a drop in the ocean for a heritage watchmaker, but for a brand like Depancel the wooden anniversary is truly significant. The spirit of racing runs through them much deeper than their short existence may suggest, and they manage to stand out in a truly flooded market of motoring-inspired watches. Their best … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception. The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials. That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...
Hodinkee
The designer of Tudor's Black Bay brings a career of industry experience to the growing British brand.
Worn & Wound
One of the great things about the current state of the watch world is the insane variety of watches that are available. We’re at a point (or at least approaching one) where brands of all stripes are willing to get creative in ways we haven’t seen in years. We’ve come out of a long period of time dominated by vintage inspired watches that all felt cut from the same cloth, and it feels like we’re now at the beginning of a new movement where makers large and small are aiming for narrower and narrower niches. I’m lucky to have seen some of the watches coming from brands we all admire later in the year, and I’m confident that when the dust settles we’ll be talking about a sea change toward more adventurous designs and a level of watchmaking once reserved for the super wealthy being made accessible to new customers for the first time. This is why I’m more interested than ever in the micro indies I’ve discussed in these pages previously. It feels like there’s a nearly infinite opportunity for brands to create special, unusual, innovative, and original watches for an audience that’s simultaneously incredibly broad and highly specialized. There’s no shortage of collectors interested in getting something unique – a byproduct of the aforementioned decade of lookalike black dialed divers. And yet, each individual watch forces you to ask, “Who is this for?” That’s a question that most of us wonder everytime we look at an MB&F; or De Bethune, and the answe...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post The Roundup – Value-Packed Field Watches, a Unique Desk Accessory, and a No-Brainer Update to Your EDC appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The latest news to come from our friends at Massena LAB doesn’t actually concern a new watch, but rather an entirely new retail operation. Last week, William Massena, the founder of the NYC based creative studio that has produced a string of popular limited edition watches over the last three years, announced Massena HOUSE, which he describes as a new community and retail concept that will focus on independent watchmaking. We seem to be heading toward a period where interest in independent brands across the pricing spectrum is at a fever pitch, so the timing here would appear to be ideal on Massena’s part. What’s more, the first brand announced to be sold through Massena HOUSE is a real coup. Daniel Roth, having recently been relaunched, is the first brand Massena has announced will be retailed through his Massena HOUSE operation. To paraphrase a quote that is sometimes heard in the political realm, this is a very big deal indeed. Daniel Roth’s eponymous brand is one of the origin points of the modern independent watchmaking movement that is currently flourishing worldwide. It’s been owned by Bulgari for years, and thus wrapped up in the LVMH corporate structure, but earlier this year after a great deal of speculation it was confirmed that the brand would reappear with an assist from La Fabrique Du Temps, Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking arm. It would be a mistake to write La Fabrique Du Temps, or Louis Vuitton for that matter, off as part of a larger “fashion b...
Deployant
Hands-on comprehensive review of the new Jaeger-LeCoultra Reverso Tribute Chronograph released recently at Watches & Wonders 2023.
Time+Tide
Today we’re delighted to announce that the T+T shop is now stocking Baltic, the flagbearers of excellent, affordable design. The French brand lays claim to being the microbrand, launching just over five years ago on Kickstarter, and continuing on its upward trajectory ever since. Baltic’s most-loved designs will be hitting the shop right away, including the two … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...
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