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Review: Monta Oceanking (Version III) Worn & Wound
Monta Jan 12, 2024

Review: Monta Oceanking (Version III)

It was early summer in 2020 and it felt like the entire world was on fire. The Coronavirus was running rampant, and the Quebec Government had instituted draconian lockdown measures, which included a nightly curfew. If residents were not in their homes by 8pm, fines were issued. It was a horrible time. My wife and I had no choice but to work from home, and both of my boys were attempting homeschooling for the first time. My oldest was in his second year of college and my youngest was in his last year of high school. We all struggled with this new way of doing things. On the bright side however, all this togetherness allowed me to introduce my kids to some of my beloved film franchises. We went through all the Die Hards, Lethal Weapons, Beverly Hills Cops and Aliens. The latter really stuck with them and my oldest found a video game called Alien Isolation, which he insisted we try. So, we did. Coincidentally Monta had sent me an OnceanKing to review and to this day, in my brain, this watch is linked to the Alien franchise and the great time I had with my boys kicking Alien posterior! I really, really liked the Monta OceanKing version II, nevertheless it was not without its flaws. Some of which have been addressed with the new version III which I’ve been lent for review. So, let’s dive in and see what they have done. The dimensions have remained very similar, with a diameter of 40.5mm (down from 40.7mm), a thickness of 12mm (same as the previous model) and a lug-to-lug le...

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Montblanc Braves the Cold with their Latest 1858 Geosphere Worn & Wound
Montblanc Braves Jan 11, 2024

Montblanc Braves the Cold with their Latest 1858 Geosphere

In 2015 Montblanc launched the Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphere Vasco da Gama, an ultra-high-end Minerva based word timer, which featured southern and northern hemisphere displays. Later in 2018, they introduced a more affordable non-tourbillon version called the 1858 Geosphere, but this time the hemispheres were displayed on a vertical axis. Since then, there have been multiple different color combinations and materials, such as bronze and titanium, on bracelets, and even on a bund strap. New for 2024 is the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole Limited Edition.    This new 42mm x 12.8mm piece is crafted in lightweight titanium, with a blue aluminum bezel insert, which features green lumed cardinal points. The hour and minute hands, along with the numbers and markers also glow green. While the two domed hemisphere globes, together with the second time zone displayed at 9 o’clock glow blue. The dial features a sfumato iced blue glacier pattern, which must be seen in person to truly admire. It comes with a matching interchangeable titanium bracelet and a gray rope patterned textile strap. The neat thing about these watches is their caliber 29.25 movement, a combination of a Sellita SW300 base and a proprietary world-time module. The latter allows you to independently control the hour hand via the crown, as well as the second time zone via a hidden pusher at 10 o’clock, making it a perfect travel companion and explorer. The 0 Oxygen in the model name means there ...

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36 Affordable Swiss Watches for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 1, 2024

36 Affordable Swiss Watches for 2026

Swiss watches are regarded by many as the finest timepieces in the world, and finding truly affordable Swiss watches can be, to put it mildly, somewhat challenging. Watches mass-produced in Japan and other Asian countries have cornered much of the market in the affordable realm, which we're defining here as watches with prices roughly topping out at $2,000; even Switzerland's neighbor, Germany, might be able to claim more "serious" brands that aim for this price segment. But due to the sheer size and diversity of its watch industry, Switzerland does offer its own fair share of value-oriented watches, all of which meet the globally respected "Swiss Made" standard. To coin a cliché, you just have to know where to look, and which labels to focus on. Here are 36 affordable Swiss watches, from some of the world's most admired Swiss watch brands, in a handful of popular categories. FASHION Swatch Sistem 51 Price: $155, Reference: SUTN405, Case Size: 42 mm, Case Height: 13.9 mm, Lug To Lug: 50.6 mm, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Crystal: Mineral, Movement: Automatic Swatch, often dismissed as the maker of plastic-cased, quartz-driven, mass-marketed timepieces for limited budgets and trend-driven youth, made the watch world sit up and take notice when it unveiled the Sistem 51 in 2013. Priced at an astounding $150, the watch contained an innovatively designed 51-part mechanical movement with five assembly-line produced modules held together by a single central screw. Swatch...

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Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Dec 27, 2023

Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking got hot in 2021, a phenomenon that accelerated into 2022 and continued in 2023. Perhaps because of that, the number of notable, impressive, or truly interesting debuts from independent watchmakers were few. Still, some of the 2023 debuts stood out for us. We rounded up our team’s favourites of the year, which range from Louis Vuitton and Rexhepi Rexhepi to Marco Lang’s open-source construction to an accessibly-priced Habring². Richard Lee Technical Editor The Marco Lang Zweigeischt-1 is an impressively executed three-hand watch with the option of a novel shock-recording complication. However, it was released in 2020. Its inclusion in the 2023 list is because of the open-source technical plans for the entire watch, all of which were made public this year on Mr Lang’s website. Mr Lang’s generosity in sharing his know-how is uncommon and to be applauded. The importance of this initiative can’t be understated. For one, it ensures the longevity of the Zweigeischt-1, since any competent watchmaker will have access to the design and construction, making servicing and repairs easier. Additionally, the accessibility of this information serves as a guidance and inspiration for new watchmakers who are attempting to create their own timepieces. Garnering much attention this year, the Petermann Bedat Reference 2941 was lauded for being an original split-seconds chronograph design with an excellent level of movement finishing. The visible components ar...

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The Collector's Corner – The TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36, Youngtimer Appeal and El Primero Power Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36 Youngtimer Dec 22, 2023

The Collector's Corner – The TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36, Youngtimer Appeal and El Primero Power

When you hear the name TAG Heuer, which watches come to mind? The Monaco, the Carrera, or perhaps the Autavia? Maybe the Aquaracer? But what about the Monza? The Monza can be considered the dark horse of TAG Heuer’s lineup, occasionally popping up over the years but never having quite the staying power as other, […]

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The F.P. Journe London Boutique is Officially Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe London Boutique Dec 22, 2023

The F.P. Journe London Boutique is Officially Open

As we reported earlier in the year, the F.P. Journe boutique in London at 33 Bruton St is now open. Perfectly placed in the heart of Mayfair, with Berkeley Square at one end and New Bond St at the other, the space used to belong to English gunmaker Holland & Holland, which was once owned by Chanel, an investor in F.P. Journe. We have been lucky enough to go down and see the new store for ourselves, and chat with the friendly team led by Shawn Mehta (pictured above centre alongside Francois-Paul Journe and Amelie Lefevere, chief executive of F.P. Journe). With an aesthetic that will be familiar to anyone who has stepped into one of the brand’s other stores, the space is thoughtful segmented into three parts, with the plan laid out by Mr Journe, who attends to every detail himself. The main area at the front contains the displays of the brand’s watches along with a traditional watchmakers bench and portraits of historical watchmakers that have inspired Mr Journe, including Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Next sits the “heart” of the boutique according to its staff, the bar area. Stocked with F.P. Journe’s own wine made by Chateau Seguin, it is a fantastic space for discussion. Overlooking this convivial area is a frosted depiction of a Resonance movement that is actually the drinks cabinet. Finally, at the back is a private area with seating where clients consultations take place. A dinner was held to launch the boutique, attended by clients and friends o...

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Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Collection with a La Joux-Perret Movement Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Collection Dec 15, 2023

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Collection with a La Joux-Perret Movement

Frederique Constant is well-known for its wide portfolio of manufacture movements, ranging from classic time-only to high-end tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Still, not all watches from FC are powered by these internally developed and assembled calibres. Specifically, most of the brand’s entry-level models rely on Sellita movements. A new collection, which has just been presented, […]

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Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Universal Genève SJX Watches
Breitling Acquires Universal Genève Breitling Dec 12, 2023

Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Universal Genève

Breitling has just announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, a once-storied brand famous for its Polerouter and Compax chronographs but that was dormant for years. Breitling will pay CHF60 million for the brand, but in tranches with CHF20 million upfront and the balance over the next five years. The acquisition marks the first step in chief executive Georges Kern’s ambitions of building a watchmaking group, which will presumably go public. According to Mr Kern, Universal will be revived by a new team and run independently of Breitling, though it is almost a certainty Breitling will bestow upon its sister company some of its in-house movement know-how. A sleeping beauty Since 1989, Universal Genève has been owned Stelux, a Hong Kong watchmaking group focused on the affordable end of the market. The company’s primary business is the lucrative distribution of Seiko in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, while its City Chain stores specialised in low-priced watches. Stelux owns a handful of other Swiss brands, including Solvil et Titus and Catena, none of which are premium brands as Universal might possibly be. Although Universal attempted several halfhearted comebacks, particularly in the 1990s, the brand has gone nowhere for some time, making it a relatively easy turnaround given the starting point. Commenting in the takeover announcement, Breitling chief executive Georges Kern says, “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor-it is a meti...

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SJX Podcast Episode 1: A Conversation with Collectors in Dubai SJX Watches
Dec 8, 2023

SJX Podcast Episode 1: A Conversation with Collectors in Dubai

Welcome to the inaugural episode of the SJX Podcast, which will be all about in-depth conversations with people from the heart of the industry, discussing the topics that matter. Our first episode is about collecting: during Dubai Watch Week, we sat down with Adel Al Rahmani, the founder of Dubai Watch Club, and Syed Hamed Hosseini, a collector based in Dubai. Both take extremely different approaches when it comes to their pursuit of watches, and listening to them talk about the reasoning behind each is not only fascinating, but sheds light on collectors’ perspectives. The conversation includes hot topics like what it’s like trying to buy from certain brands when you’re not at the top of the “list” and even the safety of wearing recognisable timepieces in European cities. We hope you enjoy the half hour conversation.  

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Bulgari’s Aluminium Chronograph Gets a Gran Turismo Makeover SJX Watches
Bulgari s Aluminium Chronograph Gets Dec 7, 2023

Bulgari’s Aluminium Chronograph Gets a Gran Turismo Makeover

Bulgari recently joined forces with the publisher of Gran Turismo, the bestselling video game known for its realistic portrayal of motor racing, in a pop-culture collaboration that diverges from its past partnerships with artists or architects. The result is the Bulgari Aluminium x Gran Turismo Special Edition that’s based on the brand’s signature rubber-and-aluminium chronograph. And alongside the watches, the collaboration has also spawned the Bulgari Aluminium Vision GT concept car, which is fully playable in the game.  Initial thoughts  Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Creative Director, has made known his admiration for Japanese arts and culture. This inclination is evident in the brand’s Octo Finissimo collaborations, several of which were collaboration with notable creative personalities from Japan, including architect Tadao Ando. So it’s not a surprise that he has extended the exploration of Japanese culture by calling on the Sony division that created one of the world’s bestselling video game franchises. Bulgari’s creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani with Japanese gaming designer and Gran Turismo creator Kazunori Yamauchi. Image – Bulgari The choice of the Aluminium collection as the platform for the special edition is logical, given the sporty nature of the model and the use of aluminium in motor racing. Though the two models retain the same case and bracelet as the standard version, the distinctive feature lies in their racin...

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One-of-a-kind Tourbillons from Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Amongst Dec 4, 2023

One-of-a-kind Tourbillons from Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers

Amongst the latest Les Cabinotiers collection from Vacheron Constantin, titled Récits de Voyages, is a group of complicated watches which stand out. All feature a tourbillon, but decorated and elaborated upon in different ways for striking diverse results. The collection includes a pair of Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillons, “Tribute to Arabesque” ref. 6650C and “Tribute to Art Deco” ref. 6520C. Alongside these we have two tourbillons in contrasting styles, the Armillary Tourbillon “Tribute to Art Deco Style” ref. 9860C and Malte Tourbillon “Tribute to Haussmannian Style” ref. 30135.  Initial thoughts  All four watches exemplify what Les Cabinotiers is about – one-off watches equipped with the brand’s highest level calibres and decorated by the best artisans. In doing so these watches wonderfully capture aspects of the company’s history from around the world, the defining theme of Récits de Voyages, which translates as “travel stories”. Given the specialty of these watches, they will not be for everyone. With strong, unique designs, these timepieces are not looking to appeal to the mass market, rather they attest to the ability of the craftspeople at Vacheron Constantin.  A personal favourite from this line-up has to be the “Tribute to Art Deco” with its deep-blue wood marquetry dial pairing perfectly with the hand-engraved, pink gold case. While the case is undeniably large, that is unavoidable due to the venerable calibre fitt...

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Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

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Introducing – Capturing the Cosmos with the Holthinrichs Deconstructed Aventurine & Meteorite Monochrome
Holthinrichs Deconstructed Aventurine & Meteorite Nov 29, 2023

Introducing – Capturing the Cosmos with the Holthinrichs Deconstructed Aventurine & Meteorite

Dutch 3D-print watchmaking pioneer Michiel Holthinrichs has moved his watchmaking vision in a new direction with the Deconstructed, which we showed you earlier in the year. This mighty impressive creation had a distinct SciFi exoskeleton vibe, and Holthinrichs Watches now expands the line with two more space-themed watches. Capturing the cosmos with each of the […]

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A New and Very Limited Atelier Wen Perception Puts a Spotlight on Craft by Highlighting Errors Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Nov 28, 2023

A New and Very Limited Atelier Wen Perception Puts a Spotlight on Craft by Highlighting Errors

In the year since Atelier Wen and Wristcheck collaborated on their first limited edition Perception, Atelier Wen’s stature in the burgeoning affordable independent scene has only grown. This has largely been on the strength of a series of smartly timed and well executed limited editions, all of which provide a gorgeous showcase for some excellent guilloche work, and serve as a reminder that well made, integrated bracelet sports watches need not drift into five figure retail prices, and that they can come from places other than Switzerland. Now, in a turn of events that is anything but surprising given the attention this team received a year ago, Wristcheck and Atelier Wen have partnered once again, but this time they’ve added a third collaborator: Paris-based artist Seconde/Seconde, who I feel like has been part of virtually every LE launch over the last several months (only a slight exaggeration). The new piece, officially dubbed the Wristcheck x Seconde/Seconde/ x Atelier Wen Perception “锔瓷” Special Edition, calls attention to the high level of craft in this watch in a unique way: by highlighting the inevitable mistakes that are made in its production.  The concept here originates with the production of the first Atelier Wen x Wristcheck collaboration last year. During the making of that LE, 36 dials in total were rejected for various imperfections in the guilloche. Not wanting to put them to waste, those dials have now been “healed” (with Seconde/Second...

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LAST CHANCE WITH CYBER MONDAY DEALS Worn & Wound
Nov 27, 2023

LAST CHANCE WITH CYBER MONDAY DEALS

It’s the final day of our huge Black Friday sales week which means we’ve arrived at Cyber Monday. With multiple watch, accessories and EDC deals, many of you may be wondering, how could we possibly top what we’ve done so far. Well, here are three ways this CYBER Monday takes the cake. It’s the final day of our huge Black Friday sales week which means we’ve arrived at Cyber Monday. With multiple watch, accessories and EDC deals, many of you may be wondering, how could we possibly top what we’ve done so far. Well, here are three ways this CYBER Monday takes the cake. The post LAST CHANCE WITH CYBER MONDAY DEALS appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Christopher Ward Continues to Explore Aventurine with the C63 Celest Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Continues Nov 21, 2023

Christopher Ward Continues to Explore Aventurine with the C63 Celest

Last month, Christopher Ward announced the C1 Moonphase, which features a beautiful aventurine dial and a pair of oversized, fully lumed moon discs to track the lunar cycle from month to month. If you thought that watch was cool, but maybe you’re not particularly interested in a moon phase complication, the C63 Celest might be more up your alley. This new reference from Christopher Ward trades on the same style of aventurine dial, but dispenses with the moon altogether. The result is a more straightforward watch that puts the unique qualities of aventurine on center stage.  The C63 Celest is the first watch outside of Christopher Ward’s Moonphase Collection to feature an aventurine dial. Because the effect of aventurine often mimics a starry night sky, it’s used frequently in watches that feature a moonphase, but without this additional complication, one can admire the material more for what it is. Simply put, it’s a type of glass that’s formed by mixing multiple types of glass together during production, including metallic elements (usually copper) that wind up giving the material a specific tonality and the trademark “star” effect. In the “Galaxy Blue” aventurine used by Christopher Ward, cobalt is used to give the dial its flat, cool blue finish.  The Celest is built on Christopher Ward’s C63 platform, and measures a conservative 36mm in diameter. While this case was certainly conceived as a sports watch case through and through, there’s no doubt...

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[Hands-On] MB&F; Reveals Horological Machine Number 11: Architecture Worn & Wound
MB&F; Nov 20, 2023

[Hands-On] MB&F; Reveals Horological Machine Number 11: Architecture

A new Horological Machine was released this week in Dubai, marking the 11th numbered edition to the series. The last HM was released in 2020, making this the longest gap between new Machines since Max Busser launched the brand with HM1 in 2007. The new HM11 is simply called Architect, a nod to the inspiration for the unconventional design, which was a particular form of mid-century habitat architecture. Like the Machines that came before it, the 11 is a conceptual wonder, with no shortage of fully bespoke elements that coalesse into something otherworldly on the wrist. What it lacks in practicality, it more than makes up for in pure creativity that pushes horological boundaries in the same way the very first one did.  I’ll start off by saying that this isn’t a watch that’s easy to judge by conventional standards; none of the Horological Machines are. And that’s kind of the point. That said, they all present a surprising level of nuance and yes, even ergonomic practicality. The F, or Friends part of MB&F;, aren’t restricted to the usual bounds of mass produced timepieces, but rather work toward the shared goal of expressing an idea and design concept provided by the MB, or Max Busser part of the equation. The end result in the case of the HM11 is a watch modeled after a habitat of another time, or even another world. It tells a story, and offers a landscape of discoveries within its 42mm by 22mm frame. There is a case here, but it defies simple explanation. A flyi...

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‘Passion For Time’ Unbelievable Timepieces from A Single Owner | In Conversation with Remi Guillemin Revolution
Nov 6, 2023

‘Passion For Time’ Unbelievable Timepieces from A Single Owner | In Conversation with Remi Guillemin

Join Eleonor and Remi Guillemin, Head of Watches for Christie’s Europe, to explore the ‘Passion For Time’ auction which consist over 110 lots of the rarest and most desirable timepieces cultivated over four decades by the one and only Mr. Mohammed Zaman from Oman. The esteemed auction consists of a huge variety of extremely desirable […]

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