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Time+Tide
A once-fallen empire, there has been a resurgence of American watch brands in the world of horology. Here are some of the best.The post 10 of the best American watch brands from least to most expensive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it. The Toka features a fairly traditional...
Deployant
Another year comes to a close. As we reflect on what you, our reader told us what you loved about the work we churned out in 2025. Here are the Top 10.
Time+Tide
We look back at ten of the top videos shared on the Time+Tide YouTube Channel in 2025, as decided by you! Did you watch them all yet?The post Time+Tide Wrapped: Our top 10 videos of 2025, as chosen by you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
It was a mixed year for affordable watches, led by segment stalwart Tudor. While appealing offerings from brands like Grand Seiko moved up beyond the US$10,000 mark, the gap was filled by a slate of interesting releases from so-called micro-brands. Here is a selection of affordable releases under US$10,000 that stood out this year. Tudor Ranger 36 - SJX I’m a fan of Tudor – I own several – because its watches are well made and priced even better. But the brand is increasingly appealing because of its gradual evolution towards enthusiast-friendly designs. The Ranger 36 illustrates that. The original Ranger was a little bit too large for this vintage-inspired design. Tudor doubtlessly received feedback to that effect. It took the brand a while, but now the 36 mm version is pretty much spot-on. The compact size fits the design well and the watch also feels good on the wrist. And because the case and bracelet are both entirely brushed, the Ranger 36 also has a low-key look that makes it a practical watch in almost any situation. The “dune white” dial is also a nice touch; it’s a nod to the “albino” dials found on some vintage sports watches (from Rolex rather than Tudor, but that’s a distinction without a difference for most of the brands’ histories). And importantly, the Ranger 36 is the most affordable Tudor with an in-house movement. It’s a solid entry into Tudor’s world of sports watches with high-spec movements. As an aside, Tudor clearly excels ...
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SJX Watches
The Albishorn Type 10 Officer is the latest expression of the brand’s “imaginary vintage” philosophy, reworking the familiar codes of the mid-century military chronograph through the lens of a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. Conceived by founder Dr Sébastien Chaulmontet, the cream-dialled Officer pairs its distinctive, parchment-like textured dial with a proprietary monopusher movement derived from a re-engineered Valjoux 7750 architecture, combining COSC-certified performance with thoughtful ergonomic and aesthetic refinements at a price that undercuts many conventional aviation-inspired chronographs. Initial thoughts Military aviation-inspired watches are a cornerstone of the luxury watch market, but most pay homage to specific historical references like the famed Type 20 of the 1950s. In contrast, the Albishorn Type 10 proposes to ‘recreate’ a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. The cream-dialled Officer takes this idea further, suggesting a “missing link” is the aesthetic development of the military chronograph, with a lighter-coloured dial for open-air usage away from the front lines. When the Type 10 debuted with black and green dials, I was a bit skeptical of the texture, which reminded me of asphalt. The Officer’s dial features a similar texture, but the off-white colour transforms the look. To my eye, the new dial looks like vintage German etching paper, which is an appealing texture that suits the theme of the watch. Inside, the Officer is as com...
Deployant
For Episode 10, we were in Taiwan and made this video of the intimate discussion with Joe of @Biaoist, and #JustTalkWatches.
Time+Tide
Andrew, Kristian, Eleonor (remotely) and special guest Zach recap the novelties of the fair with a three-watch collection assembly challenge.The post A Matter of Time EP 10: The best watches of Dubai Watch Week 2025 challenge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Founded in 2015 by Ahmed Seddiqi, Dubai Watch Week started as a local event targeting mostly collectors and aficionados, with a strong emphasis on education. But in 10 years, this biennial event has become one of the main moments in our horological calendars, transforming into a proper watch fair, in particular this year, as DWW was […]
Worn & Wound
Time flies when you’re having fun. It’s hard to believe that Windup Watch Fair has had 10 trips around the sun, but this special anniversary deserves a proper roundtable and retrospective. Worn & Wound co-founder and CEO Blake Malin hosts a fantastic panel of fellow leaders, many of whom were there for the very first Windup. It’s a chat you won’t want to miss. View the discussion in its entirety on YouTube or read some excerpts from this enjoyable toast below. Happy 10th birthday, Windup Watch Fair! The following conversations have been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. On looking back 10 years: Blake: Hello and welcome to the Wind-Up Watch Fair. I’m Blake, one of the co-founders of Worn & Wound. I’ve been working on this Wind-Up thing for the past 10 years, and it’s incredibly humbling to have all of you here. Thank you for making Wind-Up what it is today. This is going to be a special conversation. The folks on stage represent many of the brands that were at the very first Wind-Up 10 years ago. They took a chance on an unproven event and helped shape what it’s become. So before we begin, let’s give them a round of applause. We’re going to talk about what Wind-Up was like 10 years ago, how things have changed, and maybe what the next 10 years will look like. We’ll also take questions from the audience. Let me introduce everyone on stage. Andy Felsey, CEO of Haraj. Andrew Perez, founder of Astern Banks. Bradley Price, president and creative dire...
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Hodinkee
The new Chronomaster Sport Chronograph brings a slew of technical updates to the El Primero caliber.
Time+Tide
This is a packed catalogue and there is a lot to go through, but these are the 10 watches we think stand out in this year's auction.The post The 10 watches to keep an eye on at the Antiquorum Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 stands as one of the most technically ambitious pocket watches of the modern era. Launched to mark the turn of the millennium, it was the fourth most complicated watch in the world at its debut, but its true significance lies not in numbers, but in the ingenuity of its mechanisms, which redefined how grand complications could be conceived, engineered, and executed. An original complete set of four Star Caliber 2000 watches is being offered for sale by Sotheby’s at its first-ever watch auction in Abu Dhabi, which takes place in December. The first complete set to ever appear publicly, the sale will likely draw significant attention from collectors and institutions alike. The technical significance of the Star Caliber 2000 The Star Caliber 2000 was and is a remarkable achievement in watchmaking, but it was never the world’s most complicated watch. When it debuted, the Star Caliber 2000 ranked fourth in the official tally of complications, behind the Patek Philippe’s own Caliber 89 and the famous Henry Graves Super Complication from 1932, as well as the lesser-known Leroy 01 from 1904. Over the past quarter century, the Star Caliber 2000 has fallen down the rankings as more complicated watches, for both the pocket and the wrist, have been developed by Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. But the Star Caliber 2000 should not be judged solely by this kind of ranking, which is largely superficial. The watch is packed with a number o...
Fratello
Apollo 8 was the first space flight to reach the Moon. On board were NASA astronauts Frank Borman, Jim Lovell, and William Anders. It took them 68 hours to travel to the Moon, and during the first 66 hours, the spacecraft’s windows were facing Earth. Apollo 8 needed to swing behind the Moon (in total, […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon With Caliber 3869 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Just when you think you know an indie brand, they go ahead and make a watch that looks kind of normal. That was one of the initial thoughts running through my head when the Urwerk team showed us the new UR-10 SpaceMeter during our Geneva Watch Days meeting last month. It is, without question, one of the most confounding releases in the brand’s history. This is a brand that has singlehandedly carved out a niche for themselves with highly technical, futuristic timepieces that employ wandering and satellite hours complications in innovative and unique ways. Their watches are usually not circular, they do not have traditional hands, and they don’t even really have what we’d think of as complications in a traditional sense. But the UR-10 proves that even when a brand has defined a category, there’s still plenty of opportunity to surprise with something new. The concept of the SpaceMeter is to, unsurprisingly, measure space. That’s a pretty heady concept, but it’s rooted in classical watchmaking that has always been an influence on brand founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. In the case of the UR-10, the inspiration comes directly from an important clock in Baumgartner’s life, a 19th century pendulum clock signed by Gustave Sandoz. The unusual clock belonged to Baumgartner’s father, and upon taking ownership apparently had little idea of exactly what the subdials were meant to track. After a lot of research, Baumgartner determined that the clock was desig...
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Time+Tide
Light teal, eggshell blue, turquoise... Whatever you want to call it, here's a list of watches that resemble Tiffany's famous shade.The post 10 of the best “Tiffany Blue” dial watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Arsham's first wristwatch boasts a pebble-shaped titanium case topped with a solid sapphire bezel, formed into a unique, organic dial aperture.The post Hublot and Daniel Arsham bring the “splashy” MP-17 MECA-10 to the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its most enduring wristwatch design, Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just unveiled the Laureato Fifty, a watch that highlights the brand’s storied history, while asserting the manufacture‘s place in the current competitive market. As expected, the watch is powered by the brand’s new workhorse calibre GP4800, which makes its official debut here. A limited edition of just 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty is dressed in a two-tone case of steel and yellow gold, echoing the 1975 original. Though this is a one-off limited edition, it is more than likely that this revised Laureato styling will be implemented across the Laureato line in the coming year. Initial thoughts To understand the Laureato Fifty, we must first consider the era to which it pays tribute. The original design of the Laureato, presented to the world in 1975, appeared right between Gerald Genta’s iconic duo of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, launched in 1972 and 1976, respectively. Compared to these designs, which would come to define the category, the Laureato was different in a few respects. First, the original design is credited to one of GP’s in-house designers, whose name has been lost to time. Second, the original Laureato was cutting edge at the time with its proprietary, chronometer-certified quartz movement, compared to the ultra-thin automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre-derived calibre found in the Royal Oak (and later, the Nautilus). Turning to...
![[VIDEO] 10 Great Watches for Small to Medium Sized Wrists](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/06/maxresdefault-17.webp)
Worn & Wound
In this video, we look at 10 (roughly) different watches that, due to their dimensions or case architecture, are ideally suited for those with small to medium-sized wrists. We all know how crushing it can be when you see a watch that captures your attention, only to later discover that the size will not work for your personal preferences. Hopefully, this list helps, and as always, please leave your picks in our comments section! In this video, we look at 10 (roughly) different watches that, due to their dimensions or case architecture, are ideally suited for those with small to medium-sized wrists. We all know how crushing it can be when you see a watch that captures your attention, only to later discover that the size will not work for your personal preferences. Hopefully, this list helps, and as always, please leave your picks in our comments section! The post [VIDEO] 10 Great Watches for Small to Medium Sized Wrists appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
The ETA 2824 caliber has been a presence in the world of mechanical wristwatches for more than 50 years, helping the Swiss watchmaking industry forge a path through the Quartz Crisis and serving as the engine for hundreds of three-handed timepieces from an array of brands, large and small. While it is a rarity here in the 21st Century, its legacy can still be seen across the horological world - from the proliferation of similar movements by makers like Sellita to the increasing ubiquity of the ETA 2824’s souped-up successor, the Powermatic 80. Read on to learn everything you need to know about the ETA 2824. A (Very Brief) History of ETA Nearly everyone that follows the wristwatch industry has heard of ETA, and most of those have probably worn a watch with an ETA movement, but few are likely aware of the Swiss movement maker’s long and convoluted history. We generally trace its origins back to the formation of the historical watchmaking firm Eterna, in 1856 in the Swiss town of Grenchen. But in reality its roots reach even deeper. Eterna is perhaps most famous today as the maker of the Kon-Tiki dive watch, and it is currently owned by the Hong Kong-based Citychamp Watch and Jewellery Group. Originally however, the firm was a manufacturer of ébauches - unassembled movements for sale to outside watchmakers - and was named “Dr. Girard & Schild” for its founders, Dr. Joseph Girard and Urs Schild. Renamed Schild Frères by the next generation of owners, the compan...
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Time+Tide
No other timepiece has had the same impact inside and outside the world of watches as the collaboration between Omega and Swatch.The post The MoonSwatch is the best thing to happen to the watch industry in the last 10 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Often considered the pinnacle of watchmaking, these are some of the very best perpetual calendars you can find today. The post 10 of the best perpetual calendar watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Before I get into the top 10 watch brands in India, it’s worth talking about the Indian watch market overall. This is because even in the face of some regional slowdown, India has become one of the fastest growing markets for Swiss watch exports with an astounding 25% increase in 2025, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Brands like Rado, Longines, and Montblanc are as popular as ever in India, but what about the state of watchmaking in India? Well, it’s a bit of a mixed bag, and there are a few things we need to understand before getting into the my selections for the top 10 watch brands in India. First, India is not yet at the level of having a watchmaking infrastructure like that of China. The basic history of Indian watchmaking begins with the nationalized HMT in the 1960s and '70s, but the quartz revolution had a big, negative impact on mechanical watchmaking in the country. I’d say 2015 marked a change in the landscape of Indian watches, when microbrands for enthusiasts began to pick up in popularity. Again, while the infrastructure to manufacture movement components and parts in India is still not there, the passion for history and design has propelled some brands as hometown enthusiast darlings. I spent quite a bit of time researching this topic, and I do want to shout out YouTubers WatchgyanHindi and Watch and More India who are making some compelling Hindi content for the South Asian watch enthusiast community. In this list of the ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...
Time+Tide
Smoky, sultry, retro and classy: no matter what you call them, fumé dials are a winning look.The post 10 of the best and smokiest fumé dials you can buy today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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