Revolution
Introducing the Montblanc Heritage Small Second LE38
Montblanc’s Heritage collection gets a big, small limited edition of 38 pieces powered by the manual-winding Minerva MB 62.00 calibre.
Results for Pellaton Winding
256 articles · 1 video found · page 8 of 9
Revolution
WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Inventor Review
Zenith’s reputation for developing groundbreaking technology and movements in their watches have once again been redeemed with the release of the Zenith Defy Inventor. Back in 1969, Zenith first released the El Primero self-winding chronograph movement. To this day after slight tweaks, it is still being used in their El Primero line of watches. The El Primero movement is regarded as one of the finest movements in the watchmaking industry, succeeding in having a high frequency while putting out a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. In 2017, Zenith once again manufactured a timepiece that would be revolutionary for not only the brand but the watch industry as a whole. The Defy Lab contains what Zenith claims as the world’s most accurate mechanical movement. Operating at 15Hz, the movement in the Defy Lab is much faster than most mechanical watches in the industry, including the brands very own El Primero movement, which operates at roughly 5Hz. What made the Defy Lab so special was the proprietary “Zenith Oscillator” developed Guy Semon from LMVH. The Zenith Oscillator in a nutshell, takes into consideration real-world scenarios, which includes environmental and temperature changes, vibration and also shocks. The Zenith Defy Lab, however, was limited to a run of 10 “piece unique” watches, which meant that the general public would find it hard to acquire these impressive timepieces. Fast forward to Baselworld 2019, where Zenith released the Defy Invento...
Deployant
The Collector’s View: AP CODE 11.59 - why I bought it, and why I don’t regret it.
Collector Christian Kretschmar tells of his love story with his Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Self-Winding watch. Why he bought it, and why he has no regrets.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 54: Jack Forster
Our editor-in-chief talks about the winding road to becoming a watch journalist, his early days in New York City, and the pocket watch that changed his life.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to horology are as numerous as they are fundamental. Practically every avenue of watchmaking is built on the foundations he laid down, from the perpetuelle self-winding mechanism to pare-chute shock-protection for balance pivots. But most famous of all was the tourbillon, patented in 1801. It was crucial to the precision of mechanical pocket watches and clocks, the only kinds of timepieces in use then, which normally sat in an upright, vertical position. The Breguet Souscription pocket watch of the 1990s that replicated the 19th century originals, right down to the pare-chute escapement The tourbillon, however, was not Breguet’s only effort in improving chronometric performance. Prior to the tourbillon, he created the lesser known but more elegant echappement naturel, or natural escapement, in 1789. It was a double-wheel chronometer escapement that in theory, needed no oil. Breguet managed to incorporate it into just 20 pocket watches, but serial production of the natural escapement ultimately eluded him as its design had inherent shortcomings – primarily backlash in the motion of its wheels – that made it impossible to commercialise. The idea was ahead of its time, and it would take some 200 years before technology made the natural escapement feasible. The concept of natural escapements continues to fascinate watchmakers, many of whom have conceived modern-day descendants, the most recent of which is the Ch...
Time+Tide
Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out?
When a name renowned for its personalisation of higher-end pieces announces an off-the-shelf offering, it tends to raise eyebrows. However, the Bamford brand has defied expectations not once, but twice, now with the Bamford London GMT. Housing the self-winding Sellita SW330-1 25, it has already been widely pointed out that the Bamford GMT case and … ContinuedThe post Is the Bamford London GMT a knock-out? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the New Seiko 5 Sports Collection
Long offered in a dizzying range of iterations – all priced extremely affordably – the Seiko 5 Sports collection has, for the longest time, enjoyed stardom in the segment of watches below US$200. The affordability of the range and its core features – automatic winding, day and date, water resistance, a durable case and bracelet, plus the recessed crown at four o’clock – have been a gateway drug for aspiring watch enthusiasts who have never owned a mechanical timepiece. The Seiko 5 Sports line-up has just been streamlined, and now consists of five core variants, each conceived for a specific style of dress. The entire line-up will be made up of 27 specific models. All the watches are essentially “diver-lite”, looking much like Seiko’s “SKX” scuba diver’s watches but not built to the same robust standards. The new Seiko 5 Sports collection is centred on a common watch design, sharing the same case, rotating bezel, hands, and dial design. And the movement used across the line is the self-winding cal. 4R36. All the redesigned models are identified by the new Seiko 5 logo that has the “5” rotated 45 degrees to the left. The first Seiko 5 Sports from 1968 What seems to be missing from the revamp is a new version of the popular Seiko 5 Sports “field watch” that has a distinctive, military-inspired design and has long been a perennial favourite for first-timers to the watch world. Given Seiko track record in swiftly iterating a model into do...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Daymatic “25th Anniversary”
The gradual, one-a-month rollout of the 10-piece A. Lange & Söhne 25th anniversary is, fortunately, almost at an end, with number eight just being unveiled: the Lange 1 Daymatic “25th Anniversary”. Launched 16 years after the Lange 1, the Lange 1 Daymatic was an exercise in practicality, being the first watch in the family to be powered by a self-winding movement, the cal. L021.1. And it also included a day of the week indicator, in addition to the date. A splitting image of the original Though functionally different, it was a mirror image likeness the original Lange 1, featuring the familiar asymmetric dial, but inverted. A retrograde display for the day of the week replaced the power reserve of the original. Not only does the Daymatic look like the original, it also has the same dimension, and even retains the pusher for the date at 10 o’clock. But despite the upgrades, the Daymatic has never been as popular as the original Lange 1, leaving it as the least known of the line-up. The new Daymatic is the commemorative, white gold rendition of the model. At 39mm in diameter and 10.4mm high, it is just 1mm wider and 0.6mm thicker than the standard Lange 1. And, in keeping with the anniversary colour theme, it features a solid silver, argenté dial with recessed, grained segments that’s paired with blued steel hands. Instead of the applied hour markers found on the standard Daymatic, the Roman numerals and indices are printed in blue. Visible through the ...
Revolution
Introducing the Lange 1 Daymatic “25th Anniversary”
The Lange 1’s 25th anniversary celebrations continue with the launch of a special version of the watch that gave the icon an automatic winding mechanism: the Lange 1 Daymatic “25th Anniversary”.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ref. 4300V
Vacheron Constantin’s sports luxury line-up is a diverse one, including a world time, dual time, and chronograph. The most appealing models in the range, however, are unquestionably the Ultra-Thins, which are unfortunately only available in 18k gold, making them the most expensive. But they are slim, sharply executed and sit beautifully on the wrist. The collection includes two ultra-thin models, the time-only Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 4300V. Both share the same base movement, and nearly identical dimensions; close your eyes and it’s difficult to tell the two apart on the wrist. But this story is only about the top of the line perpetual calendar. Cutting an elegant figure The perpetual calendar looks like all other Overseas watches, with the trademark bottle cap bezel and sloping case sides. But it is the most elegant of them all despite being a largish watch. It is exceptionally refined in profile – the case is 41.5mm in diameter, but just 8.10mm high. The elegant proportions are similar to those of the luxury sports watch greats, namely the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Because the watch is available only in 18k white or pink gold, it weighs enough to feel as expensive as it is. The weight is reassuring, and an important quality. Put simply, it’s a big, flat and heavy watch, which is what a luxury sports watch should be. Though the perpetual calendar is available in pink gold on a leather or rubber st...
Time+Tide
Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase
Editor’s pick: If you’re in the market for a massive, 45mm manually winding dress watch with more power than you can shake a mainspring at, we think the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase might just be up your alley … Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I’ve got … ContinuedThe post Full power! The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Longines Legend Diver Watch 36mm “Tropical”
Longines rolled out a smaller version of its popular Legend Diver last year, one that is just 36mm in diameter and catered to ladies. Now it’s added a “tropical” dial model to the line-up, creating a dive watch for ladies with serious retro style. The first Legend Diver, which was made for men, was based on the twin-crown dive watches of the 1960s, specifically the refs. 7042, 7150 and 7594. The lower crown was for winding and setting, while the upper crown rotated the elapsed time bezel, a feature that has been reproduced in the modern day remake. Sometimes nicknamed “Super Compressor” after the type of water-resistant case made by case maker E. Piquerez (which also supplied other brands), the originals were notably large for watches of the era, measuring 42mm in diameter. The men’s Legend Diver is exactly the same size, but the mini Legend Diver is substantially smaller, just 36mm in diameter. Despite its reduced size, the Legend Diver 36mm manages to retain the look and proportions of its bigger brother. And with the new “tropical” dial, it also replicates the highly desirable discoloured dials of some vintage “Super Compressor” divers. The original watches all had glossy black dials, but exposure to sunlight over the decades caused some dials to fade, resulting in varied shades of brown. The new Legend Diver “tropical” replicates the aged dials found on some vintage examples, with a tobacco coloured centre that darkens towards the edges. T...
Deployant
Grand Seiko Elegance Collection SBGZ001
The new Grand Seiko Elegance collection which marks the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive, reveals a new manual-winding thin dress series. The collection is made up of four different models, with the most talked about model, the Platinum SBGZ001 with a hammered case and snowflake dial.
Revolution
50th Year of the Automatic Chronograph: Race to be the Best
From charting the rise of the self-winding chronograph in the 20th century, we survey the best on the field in the 21st.
Deployant
Review: Patek Philippe Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time
Patek Philippe is unveiling a new self-winding grand complication that adds a 24-hour alarm to its exclusive Travel Time display with two time zones; the alarm signal is struck by a hammer on a classic gong. The new Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s SBGY002, a hot new hand-wound take on the Snowflake
It’s been an excellent crop of new releases for Grand Seiko, and hiding amidst a healthy assortment of models came this gem - the yellow gold SBGY002. Using a new hand-winding 9R31 Spring Drive movement with a power reserve of 72 hours, the new piece mates a variation of the brand’s iconic Snowflake dial with a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s SBGY002, a hot new hand-wound take on the Snowflake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection: 4 thin dress watches
Grand Seiko's new slim design in the Elegance Collection. Four new watches in a new case design with a new manual-winding caliber, 2 with urushi dials.
Deployant
Breguet Reine de Naples for Valentine’s Day 2019
Created as part of Breguet’s time-honored tradition, the Reine de Naples is adorned with mother-of-pearl in hues of pink and mauve, encircled by diamonds. The timepiece ticks to the rhythm of a self-winding caliber with moon phases.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The old world charm of Tissot’s Heritage Petite Seconde
Watches - the best watches at least - do more than tell the time. They transcend their function to evoke an atmosphere or a mood. Tissot’s latest heritage piece, the Petite Seconde, is a quite wonderful example of this. Sure, it’s a 42mm steel piece with a classic manually winding movement, and a pretty classic … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The old world charm of Tissot’s Heritage Petite Seconde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Grand Seiko SBGM235G 9S Mechanical 20th Anniversary Limited Edition
The SBGM235G is part of a flurry of Grand Seiko models that Seiko released to mark the 20th anniversary of its 9S self-winding movement.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Big-hearted - the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase
Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I’ve got to say the levels of satisfaction achieved in watching the power reserve indicator on this plus-sized IWC Portofino are pretty intense. On one level it’s because there’s a lot of winding to be had, thanks to the eight days of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Big-hearted – the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Made for adventuring over and under seas - the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition SBGE245
There are certain (and few) movements in watchmaking that truly define a brand. Seiko’s Spring Drive is one of them. Unveiled by the Japanese manufacturer in 1999, it was four years later – after the inclusion of an improved automatic winding system and longer power-reserve – that the smooth sweeping calibre was adopted into the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Made for adventuring over and under seas – the Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT Limited Edition SBGE245 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Moritz Grossmann’s first automatic watch the ATUM Hamatic
Moritz Grossmann’s first automatic watch reveals the maison’s new approach to self-winding. It features a modern interpretation of an older-generation device: a pendulum mass, referred to as an automatic hammer mechanism. Christened ‘Hamatic’, this piece transforms automatic winding into a fascinating visual experience within a brand new 106.0 calibre. Compared with standard rotor-based systems, this automatic hammer system is a thorough rarity. It works by transferring power from a moving bi-directional hammer with a heavy gold head that sits on a fine stem.
Deployant
Czapek & Cie acquires a timepiece made by Patek, Czapek & Cie in 1842: a milestone of its founder’s earliest history
Czapek has announced the acquisition of watch No. 535 at Sotheby's Important watch auction, May 2018. This timepiece, made by Patek, Czapek & Cie in 1842 is a very rare and early yellow gold open faced stem winding cylinder watch.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton - a Defy Lab-inspired entry level to the collection
It sort of feels like all we’ve been hearing about from Zenith through the last year leading up to Baselworld 2018 has been all things Defy. And fair enough, the Defy Lab is technically the biggest thing since the horological equivalent of sliced bread (the winding rotor perhaps?). As we got closer to the fair, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton - a Defy Lab-inspired entry level to the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic
Bulgari wows the crowd with yet another fascinating addition to the Octo collection. If you’ve no time to read the full review, the must-know is that the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic measures only 3.95 mm thick, yet it still houses a tourbillon and a 52 hour self-winding movement. Award winning and an incredibly
Revolution
Basel 2018: Oris - The Fourth Iteration
Oris’ manual-winding 10-day power-reserve movement now comes with a universally appealing GMT function in the Caliber 114.
Revolution
The Richard Mille RM 005, RM 010 and RM 011 Ti
Richard Mille pioneered new roads in the creation of watch movements when it released three automatic-winding watches with titanium movement parts.
Deployant
New Release: More Audemars Piguet novelties from SIHH 2018
With the newly announced RD#2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (the thinnest self-winding Quantième Perpétuel on the market today), the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak collection has proven itself once again that it is more than just a pretty face. Audemars Piguet’s latest novelties at SIHH 2018 is bursting with colour and contrast, vibrant with new ideas, material combinations and design features.
Revolution
SIHH 2018: The Ulysse Nardin Freak Vision
Ulysse Nardin unveils the first self-winding Freak watch at SIHH 2018 with the all new Freak Vision featuring the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Constant Escapement.