Deployant
Review: The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar
Glashütte Original introduces its first ever annual calendar wristwatch, the PanoMaticCalendar, which features a retrograde month display.
Results for Retrograde Display
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SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton
Continuing Louis Vuitton’s slow-but-steady progress upwards as a technical watchmaker, the Tambour Carpe Diem is its flagship watch for 2021. The Carpe Diem boasts a quadruple jacquemart – it incorporates four automata – along with a jumping hour and retrograde minutes display. Developed and produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps, the Geneva complications specialist owned by Louis Vuitton, the LV 525 movement in the Carpe Diem is accompanied by artisanal decoration on the dial. All of the engraving is done by Dick Steenman of Art&D; in Geneva, while the enamelling is the work of Anita Porchet, who needs no introduction. Initial thoughts One of the most impressive watches of the year, the Carpe Diem is highly complicated – and boasts extremely fine enamelling – but the gothic style will be a bit too much for many. I saw the watch in person a few weeks ago, and I was amazed by the delicate quality of the artisanal decoration. The memento mori motif is not for me, but the work is unmistakably excellent. The snake is enamelled by Anita Porchet and particularly fine. It’s extremely slender and its skin is incredibly nuanced, covered in scales and the Louis Vuitton monogram. The tail of the snake is coiled around a single brilliant-cut diamond, while the eyes of the snake are a pair of rubies The only tangible downside of the watch is its size. It is almost 47 mm in diameter and 15 mm high, and feels every bigger due to the narrow bezel and tall, sloping...
Deployant
Review: Hautlence HL Sphere 01
Hautlence break tradition with a revolutionary (sic) time display. A ball spins at the top of each hour to reveal the next with a retrograde minute display.
Deployant
Live from SIHH 2019: Bovet
At Bovet, we have four novelties, four new calibers. All in writing desk case. We start with the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, which Bovet calls Recital 21. CHF72,000. The Next s the Amadéo Fleurier 46 Virtuioso IX. Blue flinque dial (a kind of lacquer which requires hours of polishing) 24 cities display which is totally customizable.Read More
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Six Watches With Unconventional Functions, Displays And Complications
Breaking the rules or pushing back boundaries is critical for the survival of the watchmaking industry. The majority of today’s watches are rooted in the past, yet forget to see what’s needed for today or even the future. There are brands, however, that do things a bit differently for the sake of creativity or innovation. […]
Time+Tide
The DWISS Model A1 is an integrated bracelet beauty from a brand known for crazy, affordable time displays
Does the Model A1 have what it takes to enter a crowded market?The post The DWISS Model A1 is an integrated bracelet beauty from a brand known for crazy, affordable time displays appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Six Watches with Unique Power Reserve Displays
There’s a certain tyre manufacturer from Italy that claims “Power is nothing without Control”, and to an extent, that is very true about mechanical watches as well. Sure, you can have the most beautifully constructed watch, but if you don’t harness the energy that’s generated by winding it properly, it’s useless. Luckily, we’ve figured out […]
Time+Tide
Franck Muller’s Long Island Evolution Master Jumper is an avant-garde manual-winder with three jumping displays
Three jumping displays, a shaped movement, and avant-garde design - that sounds like a Franck Muller, alright!The post Franck Muller’s Long Island Evolution Master Jumper is an avant-garde manual-winder with three jumping displays appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More
Even if I do favor the cool expressions of indie brands, the majority of my watches are traditional. But my €2K Otsuka Lotec got the strongest reaction I’ve ever seen at Geneva Watch Days this year. As usual, I was trying to wear an inoffensive but interesting watch. I didn’t want it to clash with […] Visit Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception Càn displays yet another take on hand-made, affordable guilloché
Continuing their work with Revolution, Atelier Wen is once again bringing hand-made guilloché to the affordable realm.The post Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception Càn displays yet another take on hand-made, affordable guilloché appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Has One of the Most Ingenious Chrono Displays We’ve Seen
The lineup from Jaeger-LeCoultre at this year’s Watches & Wonders is remarkably focused. When I received the embargoed press releases a few weeks ago, I’ll admit to a slight twinge of disappointment at the apparent lack of variety. It would be a Reverso year for the watchmaker’s watchmaker, and vague hopes that I always have for a recommitment to high spec but elegant sports watches were once again dashed. My disappointment (it’s an overstatement to even call it that) was short lived, as I began to dig into those very same press releases and began to realize that we were likely to see some beautiful stuff from JLC. The Reverso is such a great watch, it’s tough to be anything but charmed by them at the end of the day. The most interesting of the new Reversos that I saw is also the most clever, and is a fun, practical, and beautiful use of the iconic hinged case and the capacity for the watch to feature two dial displays. The new Tribute Chronograph is part of a large package of new references in the “Tribute” category, all paying tribute to the original Reverso in their perfect proportions. For the chrono, we get two references, one in gold and the other in steel, each with a dial that tells the current time and a secondary dial that displays elapsed time via a rather ingenious chronograph display. Think about almost every chronograph you’ve ever seen, and you begin to realize that a circular case and dial are practically core to the complication itsel...
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Freeride World Tour Displays Shredding the Gnar at its Finest, Never-Before-Seen Footage of the Titanic, Filson’s Tin Cloth Cruiser, & More
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Freeride World Tour Freeride World Tour Golden B.C. Kicking Horse This past week, Golden B.C. hosted the final qualifying run for the Freeride World Tour. If you’re not familiar with the event, it’s a freestyle ski and snowboard competition where each rider makes their way down a mountain face – the catch here is that they have to do it with a certain style and flare that’s not limited to booking it downhill, dodging in out and out of trees, or doing flips off a narrow ridge. Oh, and if they wipe out or at any point lose their skis or board, then the run does not count. Each run is scored by a panel of judges that base their score on five different categories: line choice, control, fluidity, tricks, and technique. Via Freeride World Tour Alpina has been one of the main sponsors for the Freeride World Tour since 2018, and thanks to them, we were able to get boots on the ground to catch the insaneness of the event in person. Our vantage point was located on a ridge directly across from the mountain face. From there, we witnessed several jaw dropping runs i...
Time+Tide
This new Gerald Genta watch displays Mickey Mouse playing football ahead of the World Cup
Gerald Genta Disney watches are über collectable these days. So when Gerald Genta, owned by Bulgari, revived the collection with a new Mickey Mouse “Smiley” watch last year, the 150-piece limited edition sold out in the snap of a finger. Well, for those who may have missed out, Mickey is back ahead of the FIFA … ContinuedThe post This new Gerald Genta watch displays Mickey Mouse playing football ahead of the World Cup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With The Elegant IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince!
The poetic world of Le Petit Prince meets the understated elegance of IWC’s compact Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34! What We Love: Beautiful integration of the Le Petit Prince for the first time in a Portofino model. Poetic day-and-night display Slim, elegant, and exceptionally comfortable What We Don’t: 34mm sizing limits its broader appeal No view of the movement Limited choice of suitable alternative straps Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.8/10 IWC Schaffhausen’s Portofino collection is one that can seem overlooked at times. With collections such as the Portugieser, Ingenieur and Pilot’s Watches taking centre stage more often, the Portofino can feel like a line that frequently flies under the radar. For me personally, however, it remains one of IWC’s best-kept secrets. View this post on Instagram A post shared by IWC Schaffhausen (@iwcwatches) Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2026 is the first-ever Portofino to feature IWC’s Le Petit Prince theme! The Portofino collection also has a distinctive design within IWC’s broader range, allowing it to stand entirely on its own. How this design originated is a story in itself, as the Portofino emerged during a period when the world of mechanical watchmaking was going through considerable turmoil. By the early 1980s, quartz watches were dominating the market, forcing IWC to explore different ideas that would make its mechanical timepieces appe...
SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10
The Ressence Type 10 DN pairs the brand’s proprietary base calibre with its oil-filled display module for the first time. The organically shaped case is a natural evolution of Ressence’s minimalist style, finished in dark blue DLC-coated titanium for this 100-piece debut. The new movement brings a practical benefit, extending the power reserve from 36 to 60 hours compared with its ETA-powered oil-filled siblings. Initial thoughts Ressence debuted its first proprietary base calibre earlier this year in the Type 11, and it was only a matter of time before the Belgian independent paired this platform with its signature oil-filled display module. We didn’t have to wait long, which suggests the industrialisation of the new movement is progressing well. Inspiration for the Type 10’s organic shape came from founder Benoît Mintiens’ curiosity about what a watch would look like if shaped by the laws of nature. The result is an organic form that smoothly integrates the lines of the crystal into the case, with scalloped lugs meeting a colour-matched rubber strap. The case surfaces meet along one of its few sharp edges, while the absence of a conventional crown preserves the symmetry. Like other Ressence watches, the Type 10 is set and wound via the case back ring. The case is made of polished Grade 5 titanium with a DLC coating in a shade Ressence calls “Dark Night” — a rich navy that continues across the dial, which has been simplified beyond the brand’s typical m...
Fratello
The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Makes Every Hour A Mechanical Spectacle
Urwerk explores the mechanics of quantum theory with the new UR-300 Time Quantum. Its unusual display combines two interconnected hour modules in a T-shaped frame that rapidly reconfigures itself every hour. The concept gives the independent watchmaker a fresh take on its signature wandering-hour complication, backed by a movement engineered to handle the forces involved […] Visit The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum Makes Every Hour A Mechanical Spectacle to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Mido Multifort TV Big Date Chronometer
Mido revived the distinctive Multifort TV case in 2023, building a collection of rectangular watches with an (almost) integrated bracelet, including fun editions with the retro TV test card dials. The Multifort TV Big Date is one of the recognisable models, with a strong geometric design, a large date display and an accessible automatic movement. […]
SJX Watches
Urwerk Takes a Quantum Leap with the UR-300
Urwerk’s latest interpretation of the wandering hours complication ventures beyond classical physics with the UR-300 Time Quantum, which debuts a cleverly constructed jumping display inspired by quantum mechanics. Housed in a sleek new titanium case with a choice of finishes, the UR-300 is almost as cutting-edge on the inside as its futuristic design makes it out to be, with LIGA-formed levers and wheels that catapult the display forwards in the blink of an eye. Initial thoughts According to Urwerk, the design of the UR-300 was inspired by the property of quantum entanglement, which informed the functional design of the new jumping wandering hours module. This explains why when one of the two “atoms” responsible for the hours flips, so does the other. I got a preview of the prototype movement earlier this year and was immediately taken by the new display and the elegance of its mechanism, which takes a familiar look and adds a surprising, jumping twist. The final design of the space ship-like case suits the concept, making it immediately recognisable as an Urwerk. Ultimately, the unique selling proposition of this watch is aesthetic, but it’s an aesthetic that only works thanks to clever engineering. That said, the roughly US$200,000 asking price is steep by the standards of high-end wandering hours complications, whether from Urwerk or larger brands like Audemars Piguet that, admittedly, have vastly different economies of scale. But no brand does futurism quite li...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Urwerk UR-300 Time Quantum
What We Know If you know Urwerk, you know that they've always been looking toward the stars, making instantly recognizable watches with the brand's iconic satellite display that rotates around the dial, with the hour pointing to the minute track as the whole display turns and snaps to reveal each passing hour. They've played with a variety of approaches to this concept, widening the minute track and speeding up the snap as well, but today's release of the UR-300 "Time Quantum" introduces a new mechanic that the brand says is inspired by things at the atomic level. Not to be confused with Urwerk's other atomic-inspired watch (one of my top 10 favorite all-time modern watches, the AMC special), this watch draws from the concept of polarized entities—neutrons and electrons—swirling around. Instead of the rotating single carousel in the past, the new display features a "T-frame" structure. The current hour displays as usual; the flat portion of a triangular hour module is made of beryllium copper, brass, anodized aluminum, ARCAP AP1D, and titanium, and points to the current minute as it travels on a 108º arc. The other hours are rotated 120º on their axis to hide them for legibility. Once it approaches the 60th minute (and transitions to 0), three things happen. Power built up during the rotation forces the T-Frame into rotation in a split second. The frame jumps forward and rotates 72º to put the next hour display into position, also rotating the hour module to be visi...
Worn & Wound
Owner’s Review: the Straum Jan Mayen Stormy Seas
Spirit Halloween stores are popping up around the city, pumpkin beer has hit the shelves, and 80-plus-degree highs in Brooklyn are in the rearview mirror (please remain true). I’ve returned my most worn summer watch to the display box and this one included quite a few “firsts”. I received my Jan Mayen Stormy Seas, a collaboration between the Norwegian brand and The Real Time Show (a podcast I’ll admit I’m still ignorant of) in late May after a production issue with the rubber straps delayed the promised delivery date by about three months. I grew up on the west coast sailing with my parents (who until very recently lived fulltime on their 43ft Hans Christian Ketch named “Galatea”) so perhaps that’s why I’m drawn to a watch called “Stormy Seas”, but regardless I found the contents of the precision machined capsule absolutely stunning. This was the first watch I’ve ever pre-ordered. While it’s not my favorite business practice, I knew the risks involved and was quite happy when they included a second strap gratis for the inconvenience. It remained on my wrist almost exclusively for the next three months. As well as my first pre-order and first Straum, it is also the first watch I’ve owned on a rubber strap, my first titanium case, and first integrated bracelet (more on that later). Straum has been on my radar since a Limited Edition Jan Mayen they released with Fratello back in the Spring of 2023. I loved the textural details in that fiery red dia...
Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin And Phillips Announce 34 Finalists For The Inaugural Concours D'Élégance Horlogère
Earlier this year, we covered the announcement of a novel idea from the minds at Vacheron Constantin and the Phillips auction house: an open call looking for the best vintage Vacheron Constantin watches in the world for display, appreciation, and eventually the potential to be crowned the best in its category. It was a Concours D'Élégance like any held for cars, except this time for Vacheron timepieces. The underlying raison d'être was not just to show the best of vintage Vacheron but also to show support and appreciation to the collectors who have carried the passion for the brand (and maybe to draw some watches out of hiding). A platinum ref. 6448 from 1962 with JMV RA 13-ligne ultra-thin hand-wound movement (left) and a ref. 30030 from 2006. The jury (all fourteen members) reviewed 550 entries from vintage collectors worldwide. Now we know the 34 finalists in the seven categories (chronographs, Métiers d'Art, Chronomètre Royal, astronomical complications, multiple complications, design, and chiming mechanisms), and there are some truly phenomenal pieces, including some that I did not know existed. And for those in Geneva during the lead-up to GPHG and the fall auction season, you can see the watches on display from November 4th to 8th before the winners in each category—plus a potential "Best in Show"—are announced at a ceremony on November 10th. The legendary retrograde full date and 'Don Pancho' minute repeater from 1940, with a replacement dial faithful to...
Monochrome
Introducing - The MeisterSinger No03 and Perigraph Special Editions with Turquoise Dials
Watchmaking enthusiasts know MeisterSinger and the foundational idea behind its creations: time does not always need to be read to the nearest second. Two of the Münster-based brand’s long-standing models, the No03 and the Perigraph, now come as special editions that pair the signature single-hand display with a cool new dial colour. Both watches are […]
Fratello
RZE Introduces The UTD-8080 With Its First In-House Digital Module
RZE is taking its UltraHex Titanium Digital (UTD) platform into its next generation with the UTD-8080, the first watch powered by a digital module developed in-house by the Singapore-based brand. The new RZE-8080 module adds several new functions and a higher-contrast FSTN display. Just as importantly, RZE is keeping the platform upgradeable. Existing UTD-8000 owners […] Visit RZE Introduces The UTD-8080 With Its First In-House Digital Module to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Hands-On Review: The Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee Opens A Stunning New Chapter
I take the new Raymond Weil Millésime Jubilee hands-on to see how the bi-compax anniversary edition compares with the existing Tri-Compax Chronograph! What We Love: Bi-compax layout gives the signature Millésime sector dial more room to shine The model retains the exceptional wearability of the Millésime chronographs Carries defining traits of “The Fifty” into a more accessible format What We Don’t: No date display for those who may prefer the added practicality No steel bracelet option! 12.9mm thickness may be substantial for those who prefer slimmer chronograph proportions. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Raymond Weil, like many other watchmakers, went through some turbulent times during the COVID-19 era. However, as is often the case, periods of adversity can inspire some of the most creative and important work. This was certainly the case with Raymond Weil, as it was during this period that the Millésime collection was born. While the collection was introduced in 2023, its development and design began a few years earlier. The brand wanted to create a new expression of its watchmaking identity, bringing together its history with accessible contemporary watchmaking. The word “Millésime” literally translates to “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, directly reflecting the collection’s inspiration from watches produced between the 1930s and 1960s. View this post on Instagram A pos...
SJX Watches
Off the Cuff: Audemars Piguet and Konstantin Chaykin Think Beyond the Watch
Watchmakers regularly turn familiar design cues into accessories, but Audemars Piguet and Konstantin Chaykin have taken notably different approaches to the genre with their latest offerings. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Joaillerie Collection recasts the Royal Oak as an extensive range of elaborate jewellery, while Konstantin Chaykin’s Master of Days cufflinks incorporate a tiny mechanical calibre that provides a day-of-the-week display. Both draw on the design and manufacturing specialties of their makers, but at vastly different price points and with different audiences in mind. Both approaches, however, lend themselves to gift-giving, which might explain the timing of the releases in the lead up to the holiday season. Initial thoughts Some of the biggest names in series watchmaking dabble in accessories on the side. The most obvious is probably Rolex, which made headlines when it formally launched a line of cufflinks — and a desk clock — late last year. Patek Philippe, too, has a long history of making jewellery and accessories. Today the brand offers cufflinks that match the Golden Ellipse, Nautilus, and Cubitus, and jewellery that takes after the Aquanaut and the Twenty-4. Even smaller-scale independent watchmakers evidently see value in the category. F.P. Journe offers a set of cufflinks in a choice of platinum or 18 pink gold — to match the brand’s watches — as does Biver. Franck Muller goes even further, with a full collection of Crazy Hours-inspired ne...
Time+Tide
Over The Moon: Van Cleef & Arpels Chases the Cosmos with the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune
Van Cleef & Arpels puts its watchmaking prowess on display with a stunningly decorated take on the sun & moon display
Monochrome
Introducing - The Two Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater 5531G Limited Edition Milano 2026
Among the special editions revealed for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026 are two variants of the reference 5531, first introduced in 2017 and since occupying a particular place in the modern collection. The 5531 brought together two complications strongly associated with the manufacture: the World Time display, rooted in the Louis Cottier tradition, […]
Deployant
New: Lang & Heyne Friedrich III Power Reserve (Sept 2026)
Lang & Heyne marks their 25th anniversary with a new interpretation of their Friedrich, now version III with a power reserve display.
Monochrome
First Look - New Colours for the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Unfrogettable
One of Manuel Emch’s defining moves to put Louis Erard back on solid footing was his collaboration strategy. By inviting avant-garde independent watchmakers such as Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter to create collaborative pieces using the brand’s signature Regulator display, he elevated Louis Erard’s cachet without tying it to stratospheric pricing. Another winning collaboration involves […]
Time+Tide
H. Moser expands digital offerings with new Streamliner OFF-GRID
H. Moser & Cie unveils new analogue-digital display multi-functional timepiece with its Streamliner OFF-GRID With multiple practical functions including perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, and vibrating alarm, the watch features an “OFF-GRID” mode, displaying a multilingual dictionary Available in two colourways, both versions are limited to 1,000 pieces, with priority access given to existing Moser clients. … Continued