Hodinkee
The Video Vault: Inside The Workshops Of Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, And Roger Smith
Revisiting three of the top independent watchmakers working today.
Results for Roger W. Smith
389 articles · 25 videos found · page 8 of 14
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Roger Dubuis Debuts an All-New Perpetual Calendar Caliber Alongside a Sporty Version of its Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Roger Dubuis’ latest releases at Watches and Wonders are steeped in the brand’s history. For the occasion, the maison introduces two complicated pieces – a perpetual calendar and day-date calendar – each in the brand’s patented biretrograde display. Prior to founding his namesake maison, Mr. Roger Dubuis was a prolific watchmaker for several brands, from Patek Philippe to Longines. One such project came in 1989 when he and fellow watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht collaboratively pioneered and patented their famous biretrograde display, which reworked the traditional concept and made it more streamlined. This approach eased assembly and improved the stability and readability of the hands on the ecliptic retrograde counters. Soon after, the pair engineered a double retrograde perpetual calendar module, which was notably used in a timepiece for Harry Winston. A year after the brand’s official founding, Roger Dubuis introduced its own biretrograde display timepiece and later the perpetual calendar complication in its iconic Sympathie and Homage collections. Today, we see the next evolution of these concepts highlighted in a rather modestly sized 40mm version of its Excalibur line. The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is notably powered by an entirely new movement: the RD850. Here, the maison builds upon the work set forth four decades ago with a self-winding caliber built from 435 components in-house at Roger Dubuis’ Geneva manufacture. A key functional i...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs
Kuoe (pronounced like “quo”) is not a brand that we have featured in a dedicated article before here on Fratello. However, it has been on our radar for some time. My Fratello colleague Gerard has been interested in the Japanese brand for some time and featured its Old Smith 90-002 in a list of his […] Visit Hands-On With The Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Summons Merlin and King Arthur’s Knights
Roger Dubuis continues its decade-long exploration of Arthurian mythos with The Enchanter Merlin, the twelfth iteration in its fantastical Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, and the second Merlin-themed watch in the series. At the heart of the spectacle is a highly architectural dial composed of 56 stepped columns, inspired by the basalt pillars of Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. The columns are rendered in a variety of materials, including Murano glass, vitreous enamel, and invisibly set diamonds. Above them stand 12 hand-engraved knights, each a unique character from the Matter of Britain, the medieval tales of King Arthur and his knights. Initial Thoughts Geneva has a long tradition in the decorative arts dating to the 18th century, mostly focused on enamelled boxes, small clocks, and of course, watches. It’s only natural that a Genevan watchmaker like Roger Dubius would continue that tradition, as do neighbouring Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 2013, Roger Dubius launched the first KRT watch with a miniature enamel replica of the famous Round Table in Winchester’s Great Hall. Since then Roger Dubuis has pushed the boundaries of what can be reasonably called a “table” with striking results. While the miniatures were what made the first KRT special, The Enchanter Merlin’s basalt pillar-inspired crystal palace dial could easily stand on its own (perhaps Kollokium should take notes for its next Projekt). The 45 mm case is 18k pink gol...
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph
Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Roger Dubuis is celebrating 30 years by looking back on its days as a trend-setting independent. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar deftly balances the spirit of Genevan watchmaking from the brand’s early years in the 1990s with the boisterous designs of the 2000s in a manageable size, but less manageable price. While the style is reminiscent of the oversized Excalibur models that were far from ergonomic, the Biretrograde Calendar has been redesigned for wearability. The retrograde calendar mechanism on the front is an in-house construction, built on top of the brand’s own automatic movement that is unexpectedly sophisticated and classical. Initial Thoughts Roger Dubuis is a marque built on calendars, so the new Excalibur has historical resonance. The late Roger Dubuis was a Patek Philippe alumni who caught his big break working with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who would go on to found Agenhor, on a double retrograde perpetual calendar developed for New York jeweller Harry Winston. It was during the project that Dubuis met his future business partner, Carlos Dias, an entrepreneur who would help establish the Roger Dubuis brand and transform it into a hit maker in the 2000s. The same double retrograde perpetual calendar mechanism would accompany the first Roger Dubuis model the brand’s debut in 1995. And the retrograde calendar also has a historical connection to Geneva, as a local watchmaker named Marius LeCoultre created the most prolific retrograde perpetual design of ...
Quill & Pad
Pol Roger Brut Vintage 2018: An Absolutely Brilliant Champagne!
In Ken Gargett’s opinion, the Pol Roger Brut 2018 vintage is brilliant champagne that you simply fall head over heel for, it will easily handle the best part of twenty years in a good cellar, over which time the complexity will grow.
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis
Watches and Wonders 2025 might be done and dusted, but some watches continue to haunt me. Patek Philippe is always impressive, but this time, it wasn’t something complicated that struck a nerve. Rather, it was the introverted Calatrava 6196P, a classic with a contemporary twist. The Chanel J12 Bleu collection surprised me in the metal […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Will Smith marks his award show return with a stunning vintage Universal Genève Polerouter
Will Smith wears a vintage Polerouter, and you could say we got excited about it.The post Will Smith marks his award show return with a stunning vintage Universal Genève Polerouter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds x Oliver Smith Jeweler Limited Edition debuts at Watch Week Aspen
Watch Week Aspen is not only a new home for engaging horological events, but also a new Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds Limited Edition.The post Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds x Oliver Smith Jeweler Limited Edition debuts at Watch Week Aspen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Crimes against typography: adventures in watch design with Matt Smith-Johnson
What makes watch designer Matt Smith-Johnson, er, tick?The post Crimes against typography: adventures in watch design with Matt Smith-Johnson appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon
The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner. Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings. At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, t...
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph
One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...
Time+Tide
It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price
Editor’s note: One of the great things about dropping in on a brand’s HQ is that you invariably learn things you never would normally. On a recent visit, I discovered a lot about Maurice de Mauriac and the Dreifuss family, Daniel, the father, and Leonard and Massimo, the sons. And mostly it is this: they are completely crazy. Like … ContinuedThe post It’s tennis season and we have a handful of the “Stan Smith Signature Watch” Limited Edition by Maurice de Mauriac for sale at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT and Tondagraph GT in celebration of Oliver Smith Jeweler’s 40th Anniversary
Oliver Smith Jeweler’s chooses Parmigiani Fleurier to execute the perfect tribute to 40 years of business with PF Tonda GT and PF Tondagraph GT editions
Quill & Pad
Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2012 Champagne: It Matches The Hype. And Then Some
As Sir Winston Churchill said, "My tastes are simple: I am easily satisfied with the best." He would surely have been more than satisfied with this brilliant Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2012 champagne. The great man also thought that a magnum of champagne is the perfect size for two gentlemen to have over lunch, especially if one isn’t drinking. But what is his relationship with this great champagne house?
Quill & Pad
Roger Federer Explains A Few Of His Special Rolexes (Video) – Reprise
Roger Federer is a longtime Rolex ambassador, having lent his wrist to the brand since 2001, and as such naturally owns a few Rolex models, both new and vintage. In this video, Federer explains the personal significance of three of his favorite Rolexes.
Quill & Pad
Reconstruction Of The John Harrison H4, The World’s First Precision Marine Chronometer, By Derek Pratt And Roger Stevenson/Frodsham
Here we present the full three-part series about the making of Derek Pratt's John Harrison H4 reconstruction, originally written by Roger Stevenson, chief watchmaker at Frodsham.
Quill & Pad
Pol Roger 2012 Champagnes: Grand Releases For Perhaps The Grandest Vintage
It was the wonderful 1975 Pol Roger that first ignited Ken Gargett's love of great champagne. Here he looks at (and tastes) the 2012 releases and they do not disappoint: the great vintages of this century have been 2002, 2008, and perhaps now 2012!
Time+Tide
A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction
Smith & Singer (formerly Sotheby’s Australia) are hosting their first watch and jewellery auction of the year this week, featuring a smattering of interesting watches, with a few standout pieces. While the current circumstances mean a crowded room focused on a rostrum is impossible, the auction will be held virtually, with bidding allowed via telephone … ContinuedThe post A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Smith & Sheth Cru: Rich, Exciting Wines From New Zealand With Alluring Aromas
New Zealand native Steve Smith has partnered with Brian Sheth to create a new operation: Smith & Sheth Cru. Ken Gargett believes this young winery co-founded by Smith, a highly decorated and experienced winemaker, could well take its place among the world’s exciting emerging wineries.
Quill & Pad
The Story Behind Maurice de Mauriac’s Watch Honoring Stan Smith, The Tennis Champion Some People Think Is A Shoe
“Nice shoes you’ve got there!” Miguel Seabra was walking down Church Road with Maurice de Mauriac founder Daniel Dreifuss and his youngest son Leo when they heard someone behind them praise Daniel’s Stan Smith Adidas footwear. They turned around to find it was Stan Smith himself, the American tennis champion from the 1970s after whom the famous sneakers are named. And that’s how the plans for the new Stan Smith Signature Watch all started!
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac
Much as it shames me to admit it, until writing about this watch, I rather naively thought that Stan Smith was a shoe designer … how very Gen Y of me. As it turns out, Smith is rather more than a proponent of Adidas’s enduringly vogue white sneaker – he was a legend of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity
As has become a tradition for Singapore children’s charity Kidz Horizon Appeal, its annual fundraising dinner will include an auction of one of a kind watches created especially for the event. Past auctions included timepieces by Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen. This year’s line-up is made up of three watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Louis Moinet, the proceeds from which will go to the charity that funds medical treatment for children from poor families. Inspired by the colours of the Greek island, the Franck Muller Vanguard Mykonos (also pictured above) is the first watch from a limited edition of 28 made for the brand’s retailer Sincere Watch, which donated the watch to Kidz Horizon. It’s a variant of Frank Muller’s popular sports watch, with a polished steel case that has an integrated strap and a white resin insert running lengthwise along its side. Inside is the FM 0800, an automatic ETA movement. Vanguard Mykonos Commissioned by an anonymous donor, Roger Dubuis put together the Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”, based on the wristwatch inspired by Lamborghini’s V10 coupe. Ordinarily available only with a titanium case, the Kidz Horizon edition has a case made from a combination of lightweight materials: titanium for the bezel and back, and a skeletonised case middle in C-SMC carbon – the same carbon composite used in the Huracan. The red accents on the dial and bezel are also unique to ...
Time+Tide
WATCHSPOTTING: Forget Roger’s Sky-Dweller – Mirka Federer’s Rolex Yacht-Master is next level
Last night, Roger Federer confirmed his GOAT status with his sixth Australian Open win, beating 29-year-old Marin Cilic in three hours in the sweltering Melbourne heat. Roger Federer - the first man to win 20 Grand Slam titles - is one of Rolex’s most important international testimonees, so it was no surprise he was … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: Forget Roger’s Sky-Dweller – Mirka Federer’s Rolex Yacht-Master is next level appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Farewell Roger
I will never forget how the feeling of fear and apprehension dissipated and I felt instantly welcomed. Roger could do that, just with his smile.
Revolution
Live and Let Die: Sir Roger Moore (1927 – 2017)
007 Sir Roger Moore breathes his last at the age of 89.
Time+Tide
WATCHSPOTTING: Forget Roger Federer’s Rolex Batman – his wife Mirka’s Day-Date is the real champion
While most eyes were on Roger Federer and the Rolex GMT Master-II BLNR he strapped on to hoist his 18th grand slam trophy at the Australian Open in Melbourne on Sunday night, there were other watches nearby worth noticing. Yes, there was the Richard Mille RM 27-02 tourbillon worn by Nadal throughout all five sets – … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: Forget Roger Federer’s Rolex Batman – his wife Mirka’s Day-Date is the real champion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Spot the Watch: Roger Federer wins his 18th Grand Slam title and collects the trophy with a Rolex on his wrist.
Roger Federer wins his 18th Grand Slam title at the 2017 Australian Open and collects the trophy with a Rolex GMT Master II on his wrist.
Deployant
Roger Dubuis Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Roger Dubuis…this brand have had a mystique since its early days when Mr. Dubuis was running the company…after his retirement from Patek Philippe. The Symphatie case, as shown here today in the now classic Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was a wonder in those days…still is. Then Carlos Dias took over the company, and for me,Read More