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Results for Wandering Hours

482 articles · 32 videos found · page 8 of 18

Bremont Adds Jump Hour References to the Terra Nova Collection Worn & Wound
Cartier introduced Apr 2, 2025

Bremont Adds Jump Hour References to the Terra Nova Collection

Bremont, Bremont, Bremont. What are we to make of Bremont? It’s been a year now since Bremont first announced their Terra Nova collection alongside a complete corporate rebrand, and while we’ve seen the brand expand the Terra Nova line a few times since then with new colorways and materials, Bremont had - until now, that is - kept the lineup of their field watch fairly restrained. Now, we’re seeing them break away from the trio of models they released last year with a pair of jump hour models; one in bronze, the other in steel. Built around a “unique and exclusive” jumping hour movement developed by Bremont with Sellita, the Bremont Jumping Hour 40.5 Steel and Jumping Hour Bronze are a fun take on what has been a fairly down-the-middle field watch by integrating what is a surprisingly long-standing wristwatch complication. Jumping hour wristwatches have been around since at least the 1920s - Cartier introduced, by way of example, the Tank à Guichets in 1928 - and have remained a constant in the century since. Here, Bremont is offering up two distinct takes on the concept, each in the rough format of the Terra Nova. The stainless steel Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hours 40.5 Steel takes after watches like the Fears Brunswick jump hour, with a traditional sweep seconds hand, and a jump hour and minute window sitting at 9 o’clock. All this is supplemented by a black lacquer dial, with luminous material throughout and the minute track off of a standard Te...

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward who developed their in-house Nov 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

The jump hour is a nearly criminally underrepresented type of watch. These semi-digital mechanical devices simplify time telling through more complex movements, a perfect example of watchmaking’s inherent and lovable absurdity. Their unique displays create different layout challenges, leading to unique and fantastic designs, from the sci-fi Space One to the extravagant A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. As such, a new jump hour is always cause for celebration and temptation. However, the challenge for brands that want to enter the jumping game is a lack of readily available movements and modules. So, what’s a brand to do? For Fears, this is where the power of collaboration comes into play. By teaming up with the industrious Christopher Ward, who developed their in-house jump hour module, the JJ001, back in 2010-11, Fears could access an already proven but exclusive solution. In 2023, they debuted their jump hour as the highly limited Alliance 1 for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and in 2024, their follow-up mainline version, the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, which we reported on here. I’m all for watches that provide different and uncommon experiences, whether it be the smooth glide and accuracy of a Spring Drive, the hourly dinging of the Bel Canto, the central minute counter of a Lemania 5100, or the decentralized displays of a regulator. Jump hours stand out even among that crowd by fundamentally changing how time is read. Though most akin t...

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Eight-Day Jump Hour SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Apr 3, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Eight-Day Jump Hour

A watchmaker with many excellent movements – and some exceptional calibres – Chopard is instead better known for its jewellery watches or auto-racing chronographs. Now Chopard keeps at its, and has just added to its list of excellent movements with the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Conceived to mark the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C line – made up of the brand’s high horology offerings and named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard – the Quattro Spirit is its first jump hour. Dressed up with a fired enamel dial, it is powered by an impressive and refined eight-day movement. Initial thoughts An instinctively appealing watch, the Quattro Spirit is good looking and size well; most notably, the movement is interesting. While jumping hours isn’t particularly complicated, the leap of the digital display on a mechanical watch is still an intriguing sight. Add to that four barrels that supply a run time of eight days, the cal. L.U.C 98.06-L becomes even more compelling. Assembling one stack of twin barrels Notably, even with the long power reserve, the watch remains relatively compact, just 40 mm wide and 10.3 mm tall. That’s thanks to a clever optimisation of space, with the movement relying on twin stacked barrels, with each stack containing two mainsprings connected in series. Priced at a bit under US$45,000, the Quattro Spirit costs substantially more than other L.U.C watches with the same eight-day base movement without the jumping hours. In fact, the addition of the jump ...

Insight: The Triumph of the Maltese Cross SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s logo adopted 20h ago

Insight: The Triumph of the Maltese Cross

The Maltese cross is a ubiquitous device found inside all sorts of mechanical movements. Originally devised to limit a mainspring’s working range, it also makes an appearance in perpetual calendars and unconventional jumping hours complications. The elegant mechanism is both simple and clever, warranting a closer look. From cross to mechanics The Maltese cross mechanism gets its name from the heraldic symbol adopted by the Order of St. John, and remains associated with the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. While the original cross has four arms, the Maltese cross as a horological component commonly features five arms or more. Collectors also recognise the cross as Vacheron Constantin’s logo, adopted in 1880 in tribute to the horological component. Today, Vacheron Constantin also incorporates the cross into its tourbillon cage and even some decorative screw heads. Screw for the column wheel fashioned with a Maltese cross head inside the Vacheron Constantin caliber 3200. The component itself is a masterfully simple example of geometry and mechanics. The system allows a true 1-to-any transmission ratio, since the driving component only has one tooth which makes the cross-shaped wheel advance one single step every revolution. For comparison, a 1:5 transmission ratio can be accomplished by a pinion with ten leaves paired to a wheel with 50 teeth, but the motion transmitted would then be continuous. A Maltese cross still makes one full revolution after the driver turns five...

First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy Monochrome
Frederique Constant Dresses 3 days ago

First Look - Frederique Constant Dresses Its Attainable Perpetual Calendar in Burgundy

Frederique Constant is known to make traditionally expensive watchmaking complications more accessible. Its Manufacture Perpetual Calendar, first introduced in 2016, was a QP priced well below that of many established competitors. In 2025, the watch received an update: a more refined 40mm case and a revised movement, with a power reserve extended to 72 hours. […]

Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10 SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10 3 days ago

Ressence Unveils Oil-Filled Type 10

The Ressence Type 10 DN pairs the brand’s proprietary base calibre with its oil-filled display module for the first time. The organically shaped case is a natural evolution of Ressence’s minimalist style, finished in dark blue DLC-coated titanium for this 100-piece debut. The new movement brings a practical benefit, extending the power reserve from 36 to 60 hours compared with its ETA-powered oil-filled siblings. Initial thoughts Ressence debuted its first proprietary base calibre earlier this year in the Type 11, and it was only a matter of time before the Belgian independent paired this platform with its signature oil-filled display module. We didn’t have to wait long, which suggests the industrialisation of the new movement is progressing well. Inspiration for the Type 10’s organic shape came from founder Benoît Mintiens’ curiosity about what a watch would look like if shaped by the laws of nature. The result is an organic form that smoothly integrates the lines of the crystal into the case, with scalloped lugs meeting a colour-matched rubber strap. The case surfaces meet along one of its few sharp edges, while the absence of a conventional crown preserves the symmetry. Like other Ressence watches, the Type 10 is set and wound via the case back ring. The case is made of polished Grade 5 titanium with a DLC coating in a shade Ressence calls “Dark Night” — a rich navy that continues across the dial, which has been simplified beyond the brand’s typical m...

Introducing: The Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic In Deep Blue Hodinkee
Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic Oct 9, 2026

Introducing: The Bremont Supermarine 500 Full Ceramic In Deep Blue

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Under the stewardship of CEO Davide Cerrato, we’ve seen a revitalised Bremont experiment with all sorts of things—jumping hours pieces, meteorite dials, space watches—as well as ceramic cases, especially for its Supermarine dive watch. In 2024, they launched their first full-ceramic watch, the Supermarine 500 Black Ceramic, following up with a Jungle Green ceramic limited edition built to take on the tropics. Now, the British brand has debuted a Deep Blue ceramic Supermarine 500 that’s ready for the depths. While this new colored ceramic Supermarine is a follow-up to the Jungle Green, quite a lot has changed in the Supermarine lineup since its launch, including an upgraded movement with an improved power reserve. It also now sports a wave pattern on the dial rendered in black, which provides good contrast against the white Super-LumiNova (with blue emission), and brings some added texture and depth to the dial. The blue ceramic case measures the same dimensions as the rest of the Supermarine 500 lineup at 43mm across with a thickness of 13mm. It’s rated to 500 meters and also features a helium escape valve on the left side of the case that’s finished in a color-matched blue. The bezel insert is ceramic - it's laser-engraved with embossed numerals - yet both the bezel ring and the crown are titanium, not that you'd immediately clock it. Bremont has nailed the color-matching acro...

Can AMT Bridge the Gap Between Off-the-Shelf and In-House? Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Oct 8, 2026

Can AMT Bridge the Gap Between Off-the-Shelf and In-House?

As a watch enthusiast, one should be a movement enthusiast too, right? Sure, everyone loves a handmade, ornately finished, über-high-end independent movement labored over for hundreds of hours, but I’m talking about something more industrial. The movements for the masses, so to speak. If you’ve been into this hobby for even a short time, you’ve likely seen models featuring movements from ETA, Sellita, La Joux-Perret, Soprod, Miyota, Seiko, and maybe a couple of others. Well, there is another whose name you might have bumped into here and there, poised to become a much larger player: Manufacture AMT (Advanced Mechanical Technology). Manufacture AMT was founded in 2018 and is owned by Sellita, though it operates as a separate company. This is, admittedly, somewhat confusing, as they clearly share IP, as shown in the movements. Regardless, AMT largely does white-label development for brands and offers only a small, nonpublic catalog to third parties. The AMT5000 chronograph, used by Hanhart, Oak & Oscar, Furlan Marri, and a few others for several years, is a good example of what AMT is all about. Based on the SW500 but improved in many ways, AMT5000 variants feature column wheels and flyback functionality as standard features across automatic and manual configurations with different subdial layouts. We all love a hand-finished movement, but what about the ones that power most of our watches? As a confessed movement enthusiast, I reached out to learn more about AMT’s ...

The Chronograph That Rules Them All Is Back: Bow To The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In Platinum Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 11, 2026

The Chronograph That Rules Them All Is Back: Bow To The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In Platinum

There are 567 reasons to fall in love with the A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split in platinum. The only watch in the world capable of measuring intermediate and comparative times with an aggregate duration of up to 12 hours houses the 567-part hand-winding triple-rattrapante caliber L132.1, which has a hypnotizing effect on watch connoisseurs. […] Visit The Chronograph That Rules Them All Is Back: Bow To The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In Platinum to read the full article.

First Look - The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Brings Fresh Tones to the Collection Monochrome
Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Sep 10, 2026

First Look - The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code Brings Fresh Tones to the Collection

Chronoswiss founder Gerd Lang will forever be remembered as the watchmaker who produced the world’s first serially produced wristwatch with a regulator layout in 1987. Without a shared central axis, the separation of hours, minutes and seconds characteristic of regulators connects directly to the Digiteur of 2005, a digital regulator with jumping hours at noon, […]

Introducing - The New, and Splendid De Bethune DB25 Digitale Monochrome
De Bethune DB25 Digitale De Bethune Sep 3, 2026

Introducing - The New, and Splendid De Bethune DB25 Digitale

De Bethune, a co-founder of Geneva Watch Days, returns for the seventh edition with a beautiful piece that revisits the brand’s digital time display. Featured across various models, the first digital display appeared in 2006 with a sophisticated in-line calendar displaying the day, date and month, with jumping hours and a scrolling minute disc. Equipped […]

De Bethune Revives the Digitale in Style SJX Watches
De Bethune Revives Sep 2, 2026

De Bethune Revives the Digitale in Style

One of De Bethune’s earliest models was a jumping hours wristwatch and now the brand has returned to concept with the DB25 Digitale. While largely similar to the earlier version in terms of function, the latest Digitale is presented in a new format. This is the third iteration of the Digitale – the second was introduced some 12 years ago – and the most elaborate yet in decorative terms. The case is in the wearable DB25 style, but the dial is decorated with the brand’s hallmark techniques, wavy guilloche and star-studded heat-blued titanium. Initial thoughts The DB25 Digitale revives one of De Bethune’s initial concepts, the “digital” time display, but now presented in the De Bethune greatest-hits livery of expansive blued titanium decorated with both the sea and the stars. With its striking, high-contrast colours, the new Digitale looks more current than its predecessor that carried something of an Art Deco pocket watch aesthetic. Admittedly, the DB25 Digitale is a cosmetic makeover and doesn’t add much novelty in technical terms. But it is still very much up to date in technical terms, illustrating the remarkable technical innovation, driven by Denis Flageollet, which continues to serve as De Bethune’s foundations. The DB2144V3 movement remains a sophisticated calibre even though it’s over two decades old. In fact, it arguably boasts substantially more technical content that “new” movements recently debuted by startup independent watchmakers. At CH...

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator And L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Limited Editions Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: Chopard L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator And L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph Limited Editions

What We Know While not a part of Geneva Watch Days (which starts this week), Chopard is preempting the show a bit with two new 25-piece limited editions in their L.U.C. line—the brand's in-house haute horlogerie division. The first up (and more expensive of the two) is the L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator, a 40mm by 10.3mm watch in 18k ethical white gold with 30m water resistance. The dial—which conveys hours (in a subdial), regulator-style minutes, GMT, power reserve, running seconds, and date—is a sunburst-finished silver tone with blue-transferred numbers. The caseback showcases the manually wound, four-barrel (in series) L.U.C 98.02-L movement layout that delivers a massive 9 days of power (part of the Chopard Quattro technology). This kind of high-power-reserve movement has become pretty normalized for Chopard and, because of that, I don't think it gets the appreciation it deserves. The movement, running at 4Hz, is also fantastically finished and features a Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, plus COSC accuracy certification. As mentioned, the L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Regulator is limited to 25 pieces and is now available, retailing for $50,900. On the sportier end of things is the 42mm by 11.48mm 1963 Heritage Chronograph cased in Lucent Steel. It features a deep blue sunburst-polished, galvanic-treated dial, an eggshell-colored printed dial, and Rhodium-plated white gold hands for the hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, and 30-minute and 12-hour counters. The wa...

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese SJX Watches
Blancpain Sep 1, 2026

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese

For it’s third M.A.D. Edition, MB&F; has reimagined Vincent Calabrese’s signature jumping hours complication. While still allocated via raffle, the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese represents a significant departure for MB&F;’s entry level sub-brand, being the first to fully conceal the winding rotor and the first to be based on a historical design from a notable watchmaker. Initial thoughts Vincent Calabrese is a pioneering independent watchmaker who co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) alongside Svend Andersen in 1985. Mr Calabrese is perhaps most well known for developing highly original movements for other brands including the Corum Golden Bridge and the first-ever flying tourbillon wristwatch movement for Blancpain in 1989. But Mr Calabrese also produced watches under his own name, including the Baladin that served as the inspiration for M.A.D.3. Maximilian Büsser and Mr Calabrese have been friends for years and discussed collaborating on a watch project many times, but the M.A.D.3 is their first joint effort. The M.A.D.3 is affordable as such things go, at CHF2,900. That’s roughly equivalent to where original Baladins trade on the secondary market, depending on the specifics. But the M.A.D.3 is a worthy remake in a more contemporary size and should prove more reliable and easier to service when the time comes. For better or worse, the solid value proposition almost dictates a mechanism to manage demand, so buying a M.A.D.3 isn’t a...

Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Monochrome
Aug 31, 2026

Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero

Officially launched just two years ago, Gagà Laboratorio is a spin-off of the longstanding Italian luxury designer watchmaker Gagà Milano. The inaugural Labormatic line encapsulates the brand’s highly creative mechanical personality, underscored by 1950s Italian industrial design codes and powered by Swiss La Joux-Perret movements. Instead of traditional hands, the Labormatic displays the digital hours […]

Why Is Everything Inverted? SJX Watches
Voutilainen 28TI Aug 25, 2026

Why Is Everything Inverted?

At the beginning of the year, we wondered if 2026 might become the year of the jumping hours wristwatch. While that trend is still developing, a spate of new releases in the past few months has crystallised another trend that’s been taking shape for a number of years: the inverted movement. While not an altogether new format, it’s hard to miss its growing popularity. What is an inverted movement? There’s no hard-and-fast rule for what constitutes an inverted movement, since the category itself has emerged informally. That said, a simple definition takes the term at face value: a movement that’s been reversed inside the case, such that barrel(s), gear train, and escapement are fully exposed on the wrist. The dial, if there is one at all, is usually consigned to a dial flange or small, off-centre time display. Ordinarily, an inverted movement begins its product lifecycle like any other conventional calibre. The Voutilainen 28TI, for example, was adapted from the brand’s normal cal. 28, with an additional train over the centre wheel to reverse the direction of the hands. However, sometimes the inverted variant is selected as the launch platform, with a conventional sibling that follows later — sometimes much later. The inverted cal. 507DR that powered the Breguet Tradition 7027 — the watch that arguably pioneered this trend back in 2005 — pre-dated its conventional counterpart by two decades. The cal. VS00 that powers the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is...

In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy SJX Watches
Aug 10, 2026

In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy

Sometime around 1949, in a workshop above a stationer’s shop in Carouge, Louis Cottier built a worldtime watch out of a piece of cardboard. Movado had asked him to fit their famous Ermeto — a small purse-watch that was wound by opening and closing its case — with a device to read the hour in any country. What Cottier delivered was a piece of card: two columns listing the 12 antipodal city pairs, with a sliding paper scale of hours. Open the case, slide the scale, read New York against Rome. It was ingenious to a fault. Movado’s verdict was blunt, and fair: it ignored the running of the watch entirely and “…could just as well be made on an address-book or a diary,” they wrote on February 4, 1950. The brand concluded that “Nobody would want to carry such a piece.” The 1949 World Time cardboard maquette proposed to Movado. Image – SJX composite/Musée d’art et d’histoire de Genève The cardboard maquette survives, in an archive of some 260 items — letters, patents, notebooks, photographs, a school exercise book, a golf-scoring mechanism — that comprise the most complete record we have of the man the watch world calls the father of the worldtimer. But the story revealed by this evidence is more nuanced than Cottier’s reputation suggests. The legend, briefly The received Louis Cottier is easy to summarise, because everyone summarises him the same way. He was born in Carouge in 1894, and trained in Geneva. After losing his job in the aftermath of th...

Hands-on - The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic, Poetic Time Measurement at the Speed of Light Monochrome
Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic Poetic Aug 5, 2026

Hands-on - The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic, Poetic Time Measurement at the Speed of Light

Since its debut in 2019, the UR-100 Series has become one of Urwerk‘s most approachable and recognisable creations. “Approachable” is, of course, a relative term in terms of price, yet it is true regarding wearability. The UR-100 features the brand’s signature wandering-hour satellite display, but unlike the more extravagant EMC, UR-120 or UR-230, it packages […]

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy Brings Samurai to the Round Table Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Jul 20, 2026

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy Brings Samurai to the Round Table

Twelve warriors gather around the table once again, but this time, Camelot gives way to Edo Castle. Roger Dubuis has a knack for creating watches that are equal parts human imagination and great craftsmanship, the kind you can spend hours staring at, whether they call upon dragons, knights, or are high complications that look like […]

Review: the Fears Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” Worn & Wound
Fears Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” I Jul 17, 2026

Review: the Fears Brunswick 40 “Helmsman”

I want to preface this whole review by stating that I’m not that much of a yachtsman. My last experience on a “yacht” was when I helped a buddy of mine move his sailboat. We needed to move the boat a scant 20 miles. Except that was the distance when traveling by land. Luckily, we live on an island (a Long one) and had some available water to move the boat. 23 hours, nearly 100 miles, too much sun exposure, and many bags of chips later, we made it through a stretch of the Atlantic Ocean around Long Island, then up through NYC’s East River and into the Long Island Sound. On my wrist was a Bertucci Field Watch — not exactly the most suited timepiece for the job, but since we stayed in the boat and out of the water, it worked just fine. Perhaps the journey would have gone a bit smoother had I had the right watch for the job…like the Fears Brunswick Helmsman. If this watch was on wrist, maybe we could have avoided the three hours straight of choppy seas off the Rockaways, remembered to put some more sunscreen on, and not decided to put the sail up five minutes before hitting a random thunderstorm. Fears Watch Co. was much more considerate in designing their Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” – a cushion-cased watch sporting 200 meters of water resistance, a bright white dial, blue accents, and a vibe that’s right at home on a sailboat. Let’s take a closer look at this watch that was designed for “those who find themselves regularly at the helm of a yacht or boat”...

Fratello On Air: These Are The Most Misleading Words In Watch Ads Fratello
Jul 7, 2026

Fratello On Air: These Are The Most Misleading Words In Watch Ads

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! Apologies for the late publishing time, but a baby and World Cup 2026 have us keeping odd hours. This week, we target a humorous but potentially dangerous subject. Misleading words when describing a watch, especially a vintage one, are rife within our hobby, so we attempt […] Visit Fratello On Air: These Are The Most Misleading Words In Watch Ads to read the full article.

Seiko Unveils One-Off Cosmic Watch for Shohei Ohtani SJX Watches
Seiko Unveils One-Off Cosmic Watch Jul 3, 2026

Seiko Unveils One-Off Cosmic Watch for Shohei Ohtani

Seiko’s latest wristwatch is the surprising Star Time, which features a disc-based display that tells the time as well as elapsed time for up to one million hours, equivalent to 114 years. An unconventional and philosophical watch for a typically conservative brand, the Star Time is unfortunately not available commercially but is instead a unique creation for baseball superstar Shohei Ohtani. Japanese by birth but now a star in America’s Major League Baseball, where he plays for the Los Angeles Dodgers, Mr Ohtani is a longtime and loyal Seiko ambassador who first partnered with the watch brand in 2016, well before he was a global star. Though Seiko has unveiled limited edition models associated with the ballplayer in the past, the Star Time is the first unique watch made specifically for Mr Ohtani. Shohei Ohtani (left) and Seiko Watch Corporation Chairman and chief executive Shinji Hattori Initial thoughts The Star Time is a surprise coming from Seiko. Even though Seiko builds excellent watches across the breadth of the price spectrum – while keeping a keen eye on value – its watches are almost always predictable (though the concept watches from its annual Power Design Project are always intriguing but never commercially available). In contrast, the Star Time philosophical and impractical, with a simple yet complex display. Though the display is straightforward, the engineering behind the module that underpins the five discs is more complex than it might seem given...