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Only Watch 2021: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 15202XT SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 15202XT

Audemars Piguet (AP) has made no secret of the fact that it’s retiring the Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 15202 at the end of 2021 – along with the slim cal. 2121 movement inside. Essentially a remake of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 “Jumbo” launched in 1972, the ref. 15202 will be missed and its successor much anticipated. But AP is saying farewell in style at Only Watch 2021 with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Only Watch ref. 15202XT in titanium and bulk metallic glass. Despite the modern materials, the watch is a dead ringer for an “A Series” Royal Oak ref. 5402 because the dial is a replica of the original, right down to the typography. Note the typography, as well as “Swiss” at six under the indices – details identical to those on the ref. 5402 Initial thoughts It’s hard to render the ref. 15202 unattractive. Close to the original in look and feel, the ref. 15202 has been iterated several times in the last few years, with each version slightly different in style but similarly attractive – examples include the “salmon” or smoked-green versions. Dressed in shades of grey, the Only Watch edition differs from its predecessors in colour and texture, but remains equally handsome. The all-grey, tone-on-tone palette has an appealing industrial feel, which suits the angular style that’s slightly brutal but refined in construction. The colours are not the only differentiating factor for the Only Watch “Jumbo”. The sandblasted titanium case ...

Only Watch: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II

What can one infer from a drawing of a new timepiece? As it turns out, a fair bit. The below sketch is the only bit of information revealed by Akrivia for its contribution to Only Watch 2021, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII). Despite the paucity of information, much can still be deduced from the single image. Initial impressions The most apparent fact that can be gleaned the sketch is a deadbeat seconds – a seconds hand that jumps discretely once a second. We can infer this from the star and flirt mechanism. The star is mounted on the escape wheel, which is located at six o’clock and completes a revolution once every five seconds. The star blocks the rotation of a flirt, a long lever that presses against the face of the star’s teeth. After each second, the star rotates far enough that the tooth provides enough clearance to release the flirt, allowing the star to rotate until the flirt contacts the next tooth of the star. This sudden release of the flirt is what controls the burst of rotational energy that drives the deadbeat second geartrain. Further inferences can be made from our May 2020 chat with Rexhep, where he hinted the RRCCII will have twin barrels powering separate going trains. In retrospect, that now makes sense in the context of the deadbeat seconds. One barrel drives the going train for timekeeping, including the escape wheel and the star. The other barrel drives a secondary gear train for the deadbeat seconds hand and the flirt...

Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2021

Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown

Much like the many-headed Hydra that Hercules was sent to kill in the Greek legends, the coronavirus pandemic is a beast that just won’t go away. Just when one head has been cut off, two more grow back in its place. As a result of this multifaceted challenge, greater Sydney (as well as several other … ContinuedThe post Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

John-Mikaël Flaux Debuts Rearing Horse Automaton Clock SJX Watches
Jun 23, 2021

John-Mikaël Flaux Debuts Rearing Horse Automaton Clock

A clock and automaton maker whose timekeepers have taken the form of a running leopard and race car, John-Mikaël Flaux has just unveiled his most complex creation to date. Hand made from brass and steel, Le Cabré is a mechanical sculpture of a rearing Arabian horse with a key-wound clock in its base that doubles as a “mysterious trigger” for the automaton. Initial thoughts Le Cabré is very much mechanical objet d’art – handmade and hand finished, while being complex and extravagant. Automaton-clocks like this have long been part of independent watchmaking, but are typically little appreciated, largely due to their cost (and the necessity of having an office or house grand enough to install one of them). But the craft that goes into creating one is easily understood. Le Cabré is made up of 450 parts, three-quarters hand made by the clockmaker himself, a process that requires 1,500 hours of work according to Mr Flaux. Priced at a little over US$160,000, Le Cabré is substantially more expensive than Mr Flaux’s prior creations, but it is also substantially more complex. At the same time, considerably more lavish automaton clocks that are made of precious metal and decked out in precious stones traditionally have price tags in the millions, making this relatively affordable. Equine ballet Standing 24 cm, or a bit under 10″, Le Cabré is made up of a horse automaton protected by a glass case, sitting on a wood base. It was conceived by Mr Flaux in collaboration...

Franck Muller Introduces the Skafander Tonneau Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille models But it was Jun 18, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Skafander Tonneau Diver’s Watch

Introduced in 2018 but put on hold until recently, the Skafander adapts Franck Muller’s trademark tonneau watch case for a dive watch. Getting its name from “scaphander”, an archaic term for a diving suit, the Skafander has been facelifted just as it reaches stores in both stainless steel or titanium. Initial thoughts Brash and bold watch, the Skafander is much typical of Franck Muller’s current style. At first glance, the design might seem derivative, bringing to mind the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang, and of course various Richard Mille models. But it was Franck Muller that made the tonneau case a thing in contemporary watchmaking with the Cintree Curvex – Cartier, on the other hand, invented the shape in 1906 – so the brand has every right to the shape. In fact, the Cintree Curvex was one of the “it” watches of the 1990s, so successful it arguably inspired all tonneau watches in 21st century watchmaking. Complicated and mechanical in style, the Skafander has a partially open-worked dial, which doesn’t help legibility, but it’s very much the style for modern sport watches. The Skafander manages to set itself apart amongst watches in this genre, by way of its case shape and inner rotating bezel. And priced at about US$15,000 (or 23,800 Singapore dollars), it’s relatively pricey, but on par with comparable dive watches from Hublot. The Skafander in brushed titanium Tonneau case, round bezel The Skafander’s key feature results from matching a rotatin...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26239 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26239 Jun 17, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26239

Two years after the base-model Royal Oak got was revamped with a latest-generation, in-house movement, Audemars Piguet has quietly updated its chronograph counterpart. Though it might seem barely changed at a glance, the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26239 is very much a different watch, and one that’s tangibly improved. Launched earlier this year, the new Royal Oak Chronograph retains the recognisable style of its predecessor and is seemingly alike, save for a crucial detail. The chronograph registers have been lightly revised, giving away its most important upgrade – the cal. 4401 inside that’s the first in-house calibre found in the Royal Oak Chronograph. The new movement made possible a redesigned dial that is subtly different, but substantially better. Studying the dial layout of a chronograph is an exercise in details, but it reveals how proportions are crucial to beauty. There aren’t many chronographs on the market today with perfect proportions, simply because most movements in use today were designed years ago for smaller cases and dials. The dial on the new Royal Oak Chronograph, however, stands out as an excellent example that is almost perfect. Initial thoughts With half a dozen new calibres having made their debut with the Code 11.59 in 2019, from time-only to tourbillon, Audemars Piguet has a stable of latest-generation movements that are being progressively installed in the Royal Oak. Two years ago, the three-hand ref. 15500 was the first Royal Oak t...

EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V Time+Tide
Jun 17, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V

Editor’s note: Having kids make you think about watches differently. Not so much in the manner of potential heirloom appraisal. More that durability and scratch-resistance quickly become more urgent priorities when you’re trying to avoid copping one in the knackers from an excitable three-year who’s whirling a toy lightsaber with deadly intent. Luckily, Andrew has … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Takes A Voyage Around The World In 80 Days By Land, Sea, And Air With Pens And A Smartwatch Quill & Pad
Montblanc Takes Jun 16, 2021

Montblanc Takes A Voyage Around The World In 80 Days By Land, Sea, And Air With Pens And A Smartwatch

As the world gradually reopens for travel, Montblanc’s newly introduced Around the World in 80 Days accessories collection seems that much more meaningful. Not only is it a notable assemblage of pens, leather, accessories, and a limited series Summit Lite smartwatch, it is also symbolic of a sense of adventure that has been acutely missing from our lives during the pandemic months.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G

While the Sky Moon Tourbillon introduced at the same time is bold and over the top, the Rare Handcrafts Ladies’ Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G is graceful and delicately detailed. Now the only minute repeater for ladies in the catalogue, the ref. 7040/250G features a dial with spiral guilloche covered in translucent enamel, match with unusual, spear-shaped hands and markers. Initial thoughts The ref. 7040/250G is surprisingly reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s men’s watch of the 1990s with its “officer’s” case. In fact, that case is quite close to that of the ref. 5029, the limited-edition minute repeater made in 1997 to commemorate the opening of its factory in Plans-les-Ouates. That resemblance is a good thing, because the ref. 5029 was an elegant, classical watch. The new repeater shares similar lines, but has been tastefully dressed up as a ladies watch with a diamond bezel and guilloche dial. The dial is a first for Patek Philippe, and certainly good looking. There’s a hint of Laurent Ferrier design in the dial, but again, the resemblance isn’t a bad thing. All in all, the ref. 7040/250G is an all-rounder – a pretty watch with a finely detailed dial and a complex movement. Svelte dimensions Slightly larger than the preceding minute repeater for ladies (the ref. 7000 that was 33.7 mm), the ref. 7040/250G has a case of 18k white gold that measures just 36 mm by 10.14 mm high – more or less the dimensions the men’s minute repeater of the 1990s. The rou...

What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist) Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2021

What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist)

Our European editor, Mike Christensen, teams up with Andrew Vottero – Jeff Goldblum’s personal stylist – to help fellow timepiece aficionados ensure any bling they wear is complementing their watches and not detracting from them. We all love watches, that much we can agree on. But are we wearing them correctly with other pieces of … ContinuedThe post What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

George Daniels Millennium Wristwatch With High Estimate Of £300,000 To Be Auctioned By Bonhams Quill & Pad
Jun 10, 2021

George Daniels Millennium Wristwatch With High Estimate Of £300,000 To Be Auctioned By Bonhams

With auction prices soaring, it’s a good time for an auction house to be offering rare timepieces by the world’s best independent watchmakers. George Daniels and Roger Smith made a series of 50 Millennium wristwatches back in 1999, and Bonhams is now offering one in its sale on June 16, 2021 with a high estimate of £300,000. Don't be surprised if it goes for much more than that, though.

Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 5, 2021

Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind

Each year the Horological Society of New York and Phillips team up to raise money to advance the art and science of horology – offering financial aid to watchmaking institutions and full-time watchmaking students in the United States. All proceeds, including the 26% buyers premium, go towards the cause, a much needed effort to help … ContinuedThe post Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Do you secretly have a fortune worth of watches sitting in your drawer? Time+Tide
Jun 4, 2021

Do you secretly have a fortune worth of watches sitting in your drawer?

Most watch collectors know, down to the dollar, how much each of their watches are worth. But there’s an even bigger number of watch owners who have no idea of their watches’ true value.  In fact, new data from a Watchfinder & Co report, suggests that $60 billion of watches could be gathering dust in … ContinuedThe post Do you secretly have a fortune worth of watches sitting in your drawer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people Time+Tide
May 30, 2021

The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people

Buying a watch is rarely something that you do on a random whim. Much like buying a car, it tends to be an extremely considered purchase where you research and agonise over every last detail. In addition, watch collectors also tend to have highly informed (and vocal) opinions over most aspects of a timepiece from … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack Time+Tide
May 25, 2021

NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack

First up, an introduction as to how this column is going to run and for that a high-end car metaphor is required. The majority of the timepieces that fill this site can, without too much of a stretch, be equated to wrist Ferraris, horological McLarens, an Aston Martin with tourbillons – you get the picture. … ContinuedThe post NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces May 17, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum

Very much the fashion of today, sports watches with integrated bracelets have proliferated rapidly at every level of the price spectrum. At the more accessible end is the Bell & Ross BR 05 launched two years ago and now available in three formats: time-only, chronograph, and skeleton. Continuing a glow-in-the-dark theme established by several recent models, Bell & Ross (B&R;) now unveils the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. Legible in the dark Initial thoughts Though the BR 05 was contentious because of its design, I’m a fan. The square case – with perfectly aligned bezel screws – evoke B&R;’s signature watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, making the BR 05 instantly recognisable. And it is executed well, with strong finishing on the case and bracelet considering the price. The most striking BR 05 model is arguably the skeleton variant, and that remains true with the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. Revealing most of the movement, including key bits such as the balance wheel and mainspring, the skeleton is a good looker. The BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum to be more attractive than its predecessors, including last year’s iteration in blue. It has a tactical feel thanks to the all-black movement, bringing to mind the recent BR 03 Diver Military and feels true to the brand’s history of watches for military and police personnel. Notably, the new Skeleton Nightlum has a clear dial, in contrast to the blue-tinted dial found on last year’s Skeleton Blue. The clear finish gives the Sk...

What’s It Like To Get Your Grail Watch? The Story Of My Louis Cartier Tank – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Tank – Reprise May 15, 2021

What’s It Like To Get Your Grail Watch? The Story Of My Louis Cartier Tank – Reprise

A grail watch can be pretty much anything. But one thing a grail watch always is is personal. Very personal. Martin Green was introduced to his personal grail watch by a close friend who had recently treated himself to a new watch: a pre-Collection Privée Cartier Paris Louis Cartier Tank in platinum. Here's the story of how Martin got his grail.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium Time+Tide
Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol May 8, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium

Longines have been leading the nostalgia bandwagon for years now. Their Heritage line has been pumping out hit after hit of vintage-inspired reissue models for much longer than most other Swiss juggernauts, one of the most popular being the Avigation BigEye Chronograph. The original BigEye is full of character, even having won the price in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph Petrol Blue Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

300 Years Of Jaquet Droz – And The Brand Is Just Warming Up! Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz May 6, 2021

300 Years Of Jaquet Droz – And The Brand Is Just Warming Up!

What appeals to Elizabeth Doerr about Jaquet Droz is that within the Swatch Group's 190 separate companies (including 18 marques), the brand operates very much like an independent watchmaker and its artful timepieces reflect this. Here she goes deep into the history of one of the Swatch Group's oldest brand names, celebrating the 300 years since the birth of its founder.

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a fashion-forward diving watch that oozes urban cool Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver May 5, 2021

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a fashion-forward diving watch that oozes urban cool

Establishing a recognisable design DNA is a difficult thing to achieve, especially in a short period of time, but Louis Vuitton Tambour collection has done just that. Exhibiting a case  and shape unlike pretty much anything else out there, the all new Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a watch that will stand-out whether you’re … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a fashion-forward diving watch that oozes urban cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase SJX Watches
Casio nally created Apr 28, 2021

Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase

A custom shop best known for its extensively reworking of popular sports watches – occasionally created in collaboration with celebrity sportsmen  – Artisans de Genève has a diverse portfolio of work that range from the intriguing to the mystifying. Certainly one of its more intriguing timepieces is the Sea Shepherd Challenge, a Submariner with a moon phase display surrounded by much aventurine glass that was commissioned by the founder of the eponymous marine conservation group. Initial thoughts Aftermarket customisation of fashionable watches is common. It can often be merely opportunistic, with customisers taking advantage of the watchmaker’s well-established brand and design. Rarely are customised watches interesting in a technical sense. The Sea Shepherd Challenge is interesting, being a mechanical customisation rather than the change of colours that’s the usual formula applied to such watches. It incorporates an oversized moon phase display (driven by a mechanically simple, but elaborately-constructed mechanism going by this animation), along with an aventurine-glass dial and bezel insert. Add to that the added decoration to the movement, and the watch does have its appeal. The customisation alone costs about US$35,000 (and the client either provides the watch or purchases one), which is probably too much for the work done, but within reason given the benchmark prices of such customised watches. A mariner’s watch This customised Submariner was a request...

Living With: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 26, 2021

Living With: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

I’m familiar with IWC pilot’s watches, having once owned a Mark XVII, which I bought as the quintessential flieger watch. But the Mark XVII didn’t last too long in my collection because it is very much military-inspired, and I’m not much of a military man, making it hard for me to connect with the design. When I got the chance to test drive the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 (ref. IW3881) – the latest version of IWC’s longstanding bestseller – I figured it was an opportunity to see if the fliegerchronograph would appeal to me where the time-only Mark XVII did not. Initial thoughts On paper, the 41 mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is an evolution rather than a revolution, perhaps unsurprising given how popular successive versions of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph have been over the three decades they have been in the catalogue. The various elements that make up the watch are familiar – the blue dial can be found on the larger “Le Petit Prince” Pilot’s Watch Chronograph from 2016, while the cal. 69000-family movement inside a reduced, 41 mm case was exactly the revamped Spitfire Pilot’s Watch Chronograph launched in 2019. But still, the new chronograph manages to be a whole that’s greater than the sum of its parts. While constituent parts might be similar, but they arguably work better together here than in any prior watch. I was surprised at how much I liked the watch. For one, the 41 mm case is significantly more wearable than the previous-g...

Cohiba Maduro 5: Some Of The Most Faked Cigars In The World (For Good Reason) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Apr 24, 2021

Cohiba Maduro 5: Some Of The Most Faked Cigars In The World (For Good Reason) – Reprise

The Cohiba Maduro 5 consists of three cigars – all using maduro leaf as wrapper, which gives the cigars a much darker, almost chocolaty appearance. These are upper leaves that have been through fermentation but have seen five years' worth of aging, more than twice the norm. And that's only part of why Ken Gargett thinks these Cuban cigars are so special.

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition is a fumé fantasy Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition Apr 22, 2021

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition is a fumé fantasy

The TAG Heuer Monaco is a classic in every sense of the word. I mean, Steve McQueen famously wore it on the silver screen and if you’re looking for an endorsement from the King of Cool, it doesn’t get much better than that. The Monaco has been a collection that has regularly been refreshed in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Green Limited Edition is a fumé fantasy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 Apr 22, 2021

Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084

I admit that I wasn’t much of a Panerai fan. Nothing against the brand – it’s just that large, military-inspired watches aren’t my cup of tea. However, I’ve always been intrigued by the loyalty and enthusiasm that the brand engenders in Paneristi, its most loyal aficionados. In a nod to that following, Panerai launched a limited edition for the 20th anniversary of the Paneristi forum last year – the sixth watch created for the community. Few brands have their own watch forum, much less one that has lasted two decades. Clearly, there’s a lot of love for Panerai watches, and I’ve always wondered what lay behind that. When Panerai offered me the chance to test-drive the Luminor Logo 44 mm PAM01084, the latest version of its entry-level model, it was the perfect opportunity to venture outside my comfort zone and see what Panerai is all about. Initial thoughts The PAM 1084 is very much what I had expected. Let’s start with the positives. One is a utilitarian and eminently legible dial that is quintessentially Panerai – I never had an issue telling the time. Another is the classic Panerai case with its signature, oversized crown-lock bridge. And at 44 mm, it has significant wrist presence, but doesn’t feel overly large due to its short, sloping lugs. There is substantial heft to the watch, but it comes across as reassuring rather than bulky. And despite being one of the most affordable references in Panerai’s current lineup, the PAM 1084 retains much of...