Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

Did Tudor Read Our Minds? The Ranger is Now Available in a 36mm Size (With a New Dial Color)

Tudor just released a watch that fans have been clamoring for and perhaps manifesting since at least 2022. That’s the year Tudor released a new 39mm Ranger to a great deal of fanfare and also a great deal of “Well, this would be even better if it was just a little smaller.” To be fair, that 39mm Ranger was perceived by most as an improvement over the 41mm Ranger, introduced in 2014 during an era when the enthusiast voice demanding vintage inspired watches match actual vintage proportions was much quieter. Now, with a new Ranger in 36mm, it feels like it’s finally back to the correct size.  What’s more, Tudor has taken this as an opportunity to release the Ranger in a new dial color. The “Dune” colorway is a really appealing, creamy off-white with contrasting black indices and Arabic numerals. The hands match the color of the dial but have been given a black outline to improve legibility, which looks great. The key difference between the black dial (also available in a 36mm size and unchanged in layout from the larger version) is that the Dune dial does not have lumed numerals, but small lume plots next to each numeral.  The case, of course, is smaller, but the general design and proportions do not appear to have changed. It’s dominated by a brushed finish which bolsters the tool watch roots of the Ranger, and has a water resistance rating of 100 meters. The Ranger runs on the COSC certified MT5400 automatic movement, which has 70 hours of power reserve on...

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato Three Gold Bridges, Merging Past And Present (Incl. Video)

After the release of what is regarded as the blueprint of the first integrated sports watch in 1972, others quickly followed, including Girard-Perregaux. Launched in 1975, the Laureato was the brand’s answer to the growing demand for a watch with an integrated design. It is one of the earliest, yet also one of the most […]

Tudor debuts new, Goldilocks 36mm size for the Ranger + a ‘Dune White’ dial option that’s sure to excite vintage lovers (live pics)

An extremely approachable new 36mm diameter and an Albino Explorer-esque white dial option join the Tudor Ranger range.The post Tudor debuts new, Goldilocks 36mm size for the Ranger + a ‘Dune White’ dial option that’s sure to excite vintage lovers (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Lederer Inverto Titanium

One of my favorite burgeoning brands is Lederer. The small independent sets its sights on creating incredibly technical movements and houses them in surreptitiously complex cases. Today’s release is unmistakably a Lederer, but it’s a watch in reverse. The Inverto Titanium literally flips the company’s CIC 39 over to present a unique offering. It was […] Visit Introducing: The Lederer Inverto Titanium to read the full article.

The Fratello Holiday Gift Guide 2025

Season’s greetings, dear Fratelli! As the year winds down and the festive spirit begins to sparkle, it’s time once again for our annual tradition - the Fratello Holiday Gift Guide. Whether you’re shopping for a seasoned collector, a budding enthusiast, or simply treating yourself, we’ve curated a selection of thoughtful, stylish, and horologically inspired gifts […] Visit The Fratello Holiday Gift Guide 2025 to read the full article.

Tornek-Rayville Review: The Collectible Military Dive Watch Reborn

The story of Tornek-Rayville is one that represents a significant chapter in both watchmaking and military history, from the earliest purpose-built watches for divers in the 1950s up to the re-emergence of the cult-classic brand (in a notably new form) in the 21st Century. And it begins with the development of the world’s first modern dive watch: the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms History"] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, but its most famous timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, who headed Blancpain at the time, was an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. The watch’s 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater.  It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the ...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal

One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out. The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well. Initial thoughts Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials. It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist. Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard mod...

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Celebrate 160 Years With Milestone Gala At The Plaza Hotel

Black-tie evening to feature celebrity co-chairs, lifetime achievement award, charity auction presented by Sotheby's & more.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Fall 2025

A window into the early days of contemporary independent watchmaking, the upcoming Phillips Hong Kong auction offers an unexpectedly diverse line-up, including a single-owner collection of 1990s watches. The indie selection ranges from Daniel Roth in the late 1980s to Philippe Dufour’s influential finissage. And the historically-minded enthusiast will also notice the catalog includes work from an era when star independent watchmakers, such as Louis Cottier, counted brands as their clients. Lot 982 – Daniel Roth Ref. 2187 Tourbillon “Double Face” After helping establish Breguet as a Swiss watchmaker, Daniel Roth established his eponymous brand in 1988 with his inaugural model being the ref. C187/2187, a tourbillon wristwatch with two faces. The front indicates the time and showcases the tourbillon at six o’clock, while the reverse is home to the date and power reserve indicator. Despite the strikingly exotic look for the time – remember this was the late 1980s – the tourbillon actually employs the familiar Lemania tourbillon calibre, unsurprising given that Mr Roth helped with the construction of the calibre while he was at Breguet. While the bones are Lemania, the aesthetic is uniquely Daniel Roth. The grey dial has a pinstripe guilloche while the three-armed seconds hand indicates the time on a three-layer scale. Just last year, Louis Vuitton resurrected the Daniel Roth marque with a new generation of the iconic tourbillon powered by an all-new calibre deve...

In-Depth: Patek Philippe's Travel Time Legacy

Jumping generations and hours.

Independent spirits: Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary limited editions

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomer Duo

Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has approached the milestone with uncommon ambition. The anniversary programme continues with a duo of one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers pieces - Celestia Homage to Ptolemy and Celestia Homage to Copernicus - developed under the brand’s ongoing “The Quest” theme. These one-off creations showcase the manufacture’s dual mastery of horology and métiers d’art. Presented here is a rare hands-on look at both before they disappear into private collections. The pair follows an already packed year that opened with the debut of the Solaria, a landmark wristwatch that claims the title of the most complicated ever made thanks to its 41 functions. Soon after came La Quête du Temps, a monumental astronomical clock that recently wrapped up its exhibition at the Louvre in Paris. Taken together, these creations underscore not only the scale of VC’s technical reach but also the brand’s talent for blending engineering, artistry, and traditional craft. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The new Celestia references utilise the brand’s earlier cal. 3600, but elevate it through intricate case engraving that links science with art. As a pair, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement. As unique pieces, pricing is largel...

Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date

Among Japan’s best-kept secrets, Orient Star occupies an intriguing middle ground between tradition and technology. Its latest creation, the Orient Star M34 F8 Date Green, captures that duality perfectly by combining an old-school movement with state-of-the-art dial and escapement components drawn from the vast capabilities of its parent company, Seiko Epson. The result is a watch that feels distinctly Japanese in both spirit and execution. The M34’s new green dial is embossed with a hand-engraved stamp and coated with an optical multi-layer film that creates shifting hues without a trace of pigment - an effect more often associated with much costlier watches. Beneath its shimmering surface lies Orient Star’s enduring in-house F8 movement, which continues a lineage that dates back to 1971.   Initial thoughts The dial of the M34 immediately distinguishes it within its segment. Its engraved texture, embossed from a hand-engraved die, gives the surface a natural radiance, while the iridescent green tone - created through a PVD-applied optical multi-layer film - shifts fluidly under changing light. It’s a distinctly upmarket look that signals the depth of the Epson manufacturing ecosystem behind it. The case reflects that same industrial prowess, made entirely in-house within Seiko Epson’s facilities, using 316L stainless steel finished with Sallaz (more commonly known as ‘Zaratsu’) polishing to achieve distortion-free mirrored bevels. The 40 mm size and ...

New: Tutima Patria Evergreen

Tutima adds a new dial and colourway to their Patria collection. Limited to only 25 pieces, this evergreen watch is a line extension.

Hands-On Review Of The New Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon

A tourbillon with attitude and a dial that refuses to be ignored. Zenith takes the DEFY Skyline to a whole new level with this rose-gold powerhouse. Bold, modern, and seriously impressive on the wrist! What We Love The combination of a brick-red dial with 18kt rose gold is the perfect combination. Rich, warm, and instantly eye-catching. High-frequency movement and a flying tourbillon is an extremely rare combination that Zenith has executed with some serious technical finesse. From the mirror-polished chamfers to the brushed facets and the rose-gold rotor, everything feels intentional, premium, and beautifully executed. What We Don’t Limited versatility when on the full-gold bracelet. It pushes the watch firmly into “special occasion” territory. A premium model with stunning looks and highly technical movement, the price, however, might put the watch out of reach for many. While the rotor and caseback finishing are gorgeous, much of the movement is still closed off, and some collectors may wish for a more open view. Overall Rating: 9.1/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 Zenith has long stood as a brand that has valued itself on precision and bold mechanical innovation, all the way from its roots back in Le Locle in 1865. This has become apparent even more with the invention of the El Primero movement, cementing the brand’s position as one of the leaders of high-beat performance. In the modern era of watchmaking, Zenith...

Review: the Jacques Bianchi JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc

Being surprised by a dive watch is a rare occurrence at this point in the watch industry, except for a few brands trying to break the mold. The formula is relatively simple. Take a large case, add a snappy bezel, give it a legible design language, and what you end up with tends to be a staple model in your collection. What that leads to, though, is a sea of look-alike options with slightly different specs and price points, leading to enthusiast banter over slight obscurities. However, for a watch to tweak the formula with considered, bold design choices and still win me over is a rare thing. That is why, with over 140 brands and thousands of watches on display, I found myself returning to the Jacques Bianchi booth all three days of the Windup Watch Fair in New York City to handle the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.edc collaboration dive watch. Unfortunately, if you were not among the over 11,000 attendees at this year’s Windup Watch Fair in NYC and, furthermore, did not manage to squeeze into the Jacques Bianchi booth, your chances of seeing this watch in person are now slim to none. Within hours of officially launching the JB300 Profonde X Deepsea.EDC, all 150 individually numbered units have officially been sold and will be delivered to their excited owners in January of 2026. Given that reaction, it’s hard to imagine this being the last we hear of these two. The fever behind the collaboration came as no surprise to me, in part due to the specifications, but also the stori...

First Look - The Voutilainen KV21 Tonneau, An All-New Collection for the Indie Watchmaker

A seminal figure of independent watchmaking, Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected and revered craftsmen of the watchmaking industry, manufacturing only a few dozen timepieces each year to a standard that mass production can never attain. With integrity and exceptional artistry, his creations – produced in highly limited numbers – are considered grail […]

Top 21 Best Watch Brands Of All Time

Watchmaking is a centuries-old craft, and as such, there are brands operating today with no shortage of heritage, not only stewarding the industry as a whole, but also fostering its continued cultural relevancy. Modern relevancy is vital to a crop of young brands looking to make their own mark on history. The complexity of the industry, and the purpose that watchmakers serve in a modern society, may have shifted, but their importance, and indeed their existence, says something deep about the value that humanity places on these things. Today, we find a vast landscape of watch brands and watchmakers operating, providing the most diverse range of watch offerings available to the public than any other time in history. This also begs the question: which are the best? Settling on the best watch brands operating today is no small task, and of course involves a heavy measure of subjectivity. That said, we can bring some structure to the table in an attempt to qualify the very best by an assortment of metrics, from industry leaders, to gateway brands, and even some wild cards that have the potential to shake things up. But what makes a watch brand great? Is it a consistent history of growth and innovation? Annual sales volume? Number of horological contributions made over time? Wholly verticalized manufacturing? Or is it something a little more amorphous, like public sentiment and goodwill, or risks being taken that net a positive influence on the industry as a whole? As with most ...

Headlines and Takeaways from Geneva Fall Auctions

Timex and Worn & Wound Team Up for the Field Watch w/a Twist

The post Timex and Worn & Wound Team Up for the Field Watch w/a Twist appeared first on Worn & Wound.

New: Studio Underd0g x Massena Lab Champagne & Caviar

This next Massena Lab release is in partnership with Studio Underd0g, and the novelty is in the Series 03 collection and is called Champagne & Caviar.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary Les Cabinotiers offerings include a variation on a theme with the Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”. Having been introduced several years ago, the Armillary Tourbillon is a double-axis regulator with a bi-retrograde time display. This unique iteration is dressed entirely in yellow gold, and intricately hand engraved across all of the case surfaces. Initial thoughts The Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” channels the same celestial inspiration found on the other 270th anniversary watches into mythological storytelling, blending the brand’s signature double-axis tourbillon with sculptural engraving. Still inspired by the stars, this unique piece takes its theme from the Greek myth of the Pleiades - seven sisters transformed into stars who have guided sailors for millennia. The watch is as much about artistic expression as it is about mechanics. The heavily open-worked dial exposes much of the movement beneath, showcasing the double retrograde system for the hours and minutes. The champagne-toned bridges share the same warm hue as the Cosmica Duo, while the finishing throughout is of the highest standard. The cal. 1990 inside remains as appealing as ever, with skeletonised snail cams and beautiful swirling levers for the retrograde works, all tightly packed on the right side of the dial. The blued hands point to a numbered half-circle sector, which is useful since reading the time on this “halved” fo...

What Is A Fluted Bezel On A Watch?

If you’re new to the watch-collecting hobby, you’ve undoubtedly seen or heard references to watches with fluted bezels, but what does that description actually mean? Are fluted bezels a feature of sports watches or dress watches, of watches for men or for ladies? Are they designed for practical use or purely as an aesthetic touch? As is common in the world of watches, the answers to all of these questions are not as simple as you might think.  Before getting into the fluted type in particular, let’s get really basic and review what a watch’s bezel is and what it’s for. As we explore in more detail here, a bezel is the front part of a watch’s case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. They can also be thin or wide; stationary or built to rotate in either one direction or both; purely decorative (i.e., set with diamonds) or utilitarian in nature (i.e., inscribed with a scale for some type of calculation). Fluting is defined as “a groove or set of grooves forming a surface decoration,” so a fluted bezel is one that features this type of grooved or ribbed texture on its top surface. Initially, as with most every element of a watch, a fluted bezel design was designed with a practical purpose in mind: the grooved surface made it easier for a watchmaker to screw the bezel tightly into the case to...

The Affordable Field Watch We All Needed: Timex Expedition Field Post Solar Review

Review of the Timex Expedition Field Post Solar 36mm-a compact field watch that delivers solid specs and reliability for under $200.

Tune into Episode 2 of Mido’s Multifort TV Big Date special editions

Mido's TV test card special edition returns after a successful pilot episode, with this Episode 2 edition featuring a more subdued grey look.The post Tune into Episode 2 of Mido’s Multifort TV Big Date special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary with the Hommage La Placide, a revival and tribute to its traditional roots

Is this the return to the old Roger Dubuis that watch enthusiasts have been waiting for?The post Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary with the Hommage La Placide, a revival and tribute to its traditional roots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hanhart Introduces the 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date

Brown is a divisive color; get it right, and it can make whatever it adorns seem luxurious, rich, and warm. Get it wrong or pair it with a color that doesn’t go well with earth tones, and you end up with something either dull or downright ugly. Fortunately, German watchmaker Hanhart has gone the right route when designing their 417 ES Mocha Flyback date, with a naming convention and brown and silver color pairing that conjures cafes on a rainy day. Made in collaboration with the Porsche Fahrer magazine, the Mocha Flyback is actually a handsomely-masked nod to motorsport, albeit with a coffee-centric aesthetic twist. The 42mm stainless steel case measures in at 49.75mm lug-to-lug, with a smooth stainless steel bezel, and a crown at the 3 o’clock position. Flanking the crown are two pushers-one matching steel at 2 o’clock, and one in a daring HyCeram red at 4. The red pusher is the sole deviation from the moody brown and silver design, and the first indication of the Mocha Flyback’s infatuation with speeding automobiles. It’s not just for optics, either; the bright red is a hallmark of flyback watches, intended to warn pilots (or race car drivers) before they accidentally reset the stop timer. The dial is a deep mocha brown, with two subdials inset at 3 and 9 o’clock for small seconds and 30-minute counter functionality; a date window sits at 6, replacing the numeral. Around the dial is a military-esque minute track, echoing the pilot watch origin of the model....

Introducing - The Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie, a Unique Edition of the World’s Smallest Mechanical Planetarium

Any watch from Christiaan van der Klaauw that carries a planetarium is, by definition, special. Since the mid-1990s, this rare and spectacular complication has been the brand’s signature feature, conceived and calculated by Mister van der Klaauw himself. Recently, the brand, now under the guidance of Pim Koeslag, presented the fantastic Grand Planetarium Eccentric, the […]

First Look - The New Rado True Square Automatic Open Heart Sparkling

Rado has become a byword for design-led, high-tech ceramic watches spearheaded by the Ceramica watch of 1990. Although the fully integrated case and bracelet of the Cermica were more rectangular in shape, the sleek, minimalist style passed down through the family tree and was inherited by the True Square Automatic collection, released thirty years later, […]

Worn & Wound and Hamilton are Hosting a Giveaway Party at Their Call of Duty Black Ops 7 NYC Pop-Up

Join Worn & Wound and Hamilton on Tuesday, November 18th for a Giveaway Party to commemorate their newest collaboration timepiece with Call of Duty Black Ops 7 by RSVPing via this link!  This event will be held at a fully decked-out Hamilton x Call of Duty Pop-Up experience in NYC. A limited run of the Special Edition Khaki Field Autos will be on full display, along with other Hamilton watches that have been featured on the big screen. Make sure you’re ready to put your gaming skills to the test and try out the new Call of Duty Black Ops 7 in the Hamilton Gaming Lounge! Get inspired by a one-of-a-kind environmental installation by “perpetual artist” Michael Murphy featuring 61 anamorphic light boxes that you’ll need to see to believe. Bring your lume lights for a special in-person scavenger hunt mission. Plus, to make the evening even more exciting, the Worn & Wound team has curated multiple EDC items to complement this Special Edition Khaki Field from brands like OEG EDC, Able Carry, Maratac, Spring Made and Big Idea Design. We’ll be breaking down each of the items in the kit and-even better-giving each of them away to multiple attendees in a fun, raffle-style evening you won’t want to miss! Tuesday, November 18, 2025 6:30PM – 8:30PM EST Hamilton Pop-Up on Broadway New York, New York Address details will be sent once your RSVP is confirmed. An RSVP is required to attend the event, please complete the form once for each person in your party. RSVP via thi...