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RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement Time+Tide
Seiko s 9F Quartz Movement Sep 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement

SJX Watches recently published an in-depth look at Seiko’s prodigious and fabled 9F Quartz movements, which are now in their 26th year of production. And there’s no question the 9F is a genuinely high-end movement that has taken decades of engineering to perfect. It’s actually a remarkable feat of timekeeping when you think about it … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition Sep 25, 2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer has unveiled its penultimate limited edition 50th anniversary Monaco, and this one pays homage to the wonderful era that was the noughties. This is the fourth iteration of the limited-run watches, which are celebrating 50 years of the fabled original Heuer Monaco, first released in 1969. We’ve already seen the eclectic mix of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Badger Islander Wristwatch SJX Watches
Sep 18, 2019

Introducing the Badger Islander Wristwatch

Badger Watches makes it debut on Kickstarter with the Islander, an automatic wristwatch with an interesting tonneau-shaped case. While most tonneau cases are made up of multiple curved lines, the Islander case is composed of several straight lines and flat surfaces, giving it a slightly 1970s vibe. The brand is based in Singapore – a city-state that’s an island – which is where the model name comes from. Affordable watches like the Islander usually work best if most of the effort is concentrated on one element; here the focus is undoubtedly the case. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 48mm long, the case is steel with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’s stamped from a block of steel, giving it softer edges and corners than if it were milled, but with a price tag of under US$400 that’s more than enough. Four dial colours are available, including one in silver with blue accents that’s a 99-piece limited edition. With only minimal text on the edge, the dials have the same stamped radial motif, along with tapered hands reminiscent of the Marc Newson-designed Ikepod watches. The date window is placed at six o’clock to maintain the symmetry of the dial. The Islander is powered by a Sellita SW200-1, which is a clone of the ETA 2824. A low-cost but robust movement, the SW200 has a shortish 38-hour power reserve. Key facts Diameter: 38mm Height: 11mm Material: Steel Water resistance: 50m Movement: SW200-1 Functions: Hours, minutes, and second; date W...

7 fun facts I discovered at the Seiko Museum Time+Tide
Seiko Museum Editor’s note Seiko Sep 13, 2019

7 fun facts I discovered at the Seiko Museum

Editor’s note: Seiko is a brand with a pretty incredible history. And a lot of this history goes under the radar, to be honest. Which is why, when Sandra visited Tokyo last year we strongly suggested she make a detour to Seiko’s Museum. Here’s what she learned … If you’re ever in Tokyo, I strongly … ContinuedThe post 7 fun facts I discovered at the Seiko Museum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100 SpaceTime SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet with the Star Wheel But Sep 12, 2019

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100 SpaceTime

Known for its innovative, avant-garde complications and cases inspired by sci-fi, Urwerk’s latest creation is doubly interesting. The UR-100 SpaceTime takes the astronomical theme even further with two quirky, celestial indicators – and it is also priced as an entry-level model. The UR-100 utilises the brand’s signature wandering-hours satellite display, where conventional hands are replaced by a semi-circular minute gauge, across which three discs mounted on a carousel sweep successively. It was originally invented in the 17th century for a Vatican City clock, then popularised for wristwatches in the early 1990s by Audemars Piguet with the Star Wheel. But it was Urwerk that took the wandering hours into the 21st century when it launched at UR-103 in 2003; though it was not the first Urwerk wristwatch, the UR-103 was the watch that put the brand on the map (and the recent UR-105 is a nod to the original). Celestial hours On the UR-100 SpaceTime, the hours wander even further: once the red minute pointer completes 60 minutes (or an hour), it disappears under a bridge and reappears through a cutout at 10 o’clock to indicate the distance travelled from the Earth’s rotation on its own axis, as measured at the equator, or 555km every 20 minutes. Another red pointer at two o’clock measures the distance travelled by the Earth orbiting the Sun, which is 35,740km every 20 minutes. Both astronomical distance displays, however, are a philosophical exercis...

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age SJX Watches
Sep 10, 2019

Editorial: Movement Finishing in the Instagram Age

Thanks to Instagram, and social media in general, fine watchmaking has become something of a spectator sport. Roger W. Smith’s YouTube channel has over 10,000 subscribers, and though he produces only about a dozen watches per year, his video about polishing the flanks of pinions has been viewed more than 115,000 times. Akrivia, which produces watches on a similar scale, has almost 40,000 followers on Instagram and their videos, which focus on hand finishing techniques, get thousands of views and likes. These numbers suggest a huge appetite among watch enthusiasts for information about movement construction and finishing. Yet while collectors now have unprecedented access to this kind of information, finishing is a highly nuanced topic that doesn’t readily lend itself to the brevity of an Instagram comment. This can make it difficult, especially for new collectors, to understand how finishing fits into the overall value proposition offered by a fine watch. What is finishing and why it matters Finishing is the process by which the components of a watch movement are treated between fabrication and final assembly. At lower price points, finishing is done by machine. At higher price points, it is often applied by hand. The results of good hand finishing are unmistakable, often cited as the main reason for drastic price differences between watches. I asked Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi about the value of hand finishing, and he replied, “Let’s face facts – the differe...

VIDEO: Vintage style done right, the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph Time+Tide
Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph Broadly Sep 10, 2019

VIDEO: Vintage style done right, the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph

Broadly speaking, heritage-inspired watches fall into two significant camps - faithful reissues or modern interpretations. The Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph falls very much into the former camp. And, as far as faithful reissues go, it’s awesome. The big picture is the case, which is a hefty, hunky cushion - bonus points for the smart mix … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Vintage style done right, the Tissot Heritage 1973 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hour Glass celebrates its 40th with an awesome TAG Heuer Monaco LE Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco LE Sep 10, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Hour Glass celebrates its 40th with an awesome TAG Heuer Monaco LE

A few months ago we introduced you to the first in a series of limited edition watches made to celebrate The Hour Glass’s 40th anniversary. Well, we’ve just had a look at the latest in the series, which takes the form of a TAG Heuer Monaco. Now, if this were any other watch it would … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hour Glass celebrates its 40th with an awesome TAG Heuer Monaco LE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide Time+Tide
Rolex or Patek Adding Sep 9, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide

I don’t know about you, but I find navigating Casio’s iconic and uber-tough G-Shock family a tricky process. It’s a reference number dominated space which, to the outsider, is every bit as confusing as the worlds of vintage Rolex or Patek. Adding to the complexity is the sheer profusion of models. Limited editions, collaborations and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Full metal Jaquet Droz – the Astrale Grande Heure Minute  Time+Tide
Jaquet Droz Sep 5, 2019

Full metal Jaquet Droz – the Astrale Grande Heure Minute 

Editor’s note: Jaquet Droz is a brand with an increasing presence on our fair shores. And while they’re best known for their watches that exhibit a decent amount of both pomp and circumstance, there’s a lot to be said for their simpler offerings, which are still distinctive as all get-out. Don’t believe us? Check out … ContinuedThe post Full metal Jaquet Droz – the Astrale Grande Heure Minute  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 4, 2019

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel

Originally available in platinum and then rose gold, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is a well regarded vintage remake, being well executed and faithful to the original. It’s modelled on the ref. 6087 of the 1950s, which was characterised by pointy, horn-shaped lugs, hence the model name; cornes de vache translates as cow horns. Now it is available in stainless steel, making the Cornes de Vache the second Historiques model to be offered in the metal, after the Historiques 1942 and 1948 triple calendars. The steel case naturally makes it far more accessible, with a retail price that’s a third less than the same in platinum. Material aside, the specs of the new model are identical to the earlier precious metal versions. The case is 38.5mm in diameter, and contains the cal. 1142 movement. Now made in-house by Vacheron Constantin, the cal. 1142 is derived from the Lemania 2310. Vacheron Constantin has upgraded the movement in several ways, most notably with a free-sprung balance wheel. The dial is a pale grey with a fine “velvet” finish and red accents on the elapsed seconds track. All of the applied hour markers are 18k white gold, as are the hands. Notably, this is not the first Cornes de Vache in steel. In 2017 Vacheron Constantin produced a small run of 36 watches – with a steel case and dark grey dial – for American watch blog Hodinkee. Key facts and price Diameter: 38.5mm Height: 10.9mm Material: Stainless steel Water resist...

NEWS: The GPHG has announced the full list of finalists for 2019, and we’re pretty excited by these 5 contenders  Time+Tide
Sep 2, 2019

NEWS: The GPHG has announced the full list of finalists for 2019, and we’re pretty excited by these 5 contenders 

Overnight, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève dropped the list of their 84 pre-selected watches, which will be judged within an inch of their lives and presented to an adoring crowd of industry professionals.  You can check the full list over at the GPHG site. There’s a lot to dive into, and quite a few … ContinuedThe post NEWS: The GPHG has announced the full list of finalists for 2019, and we’re pretty excited by these 5 contenders  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith SJX Watches
Ming Sep 2, 2019

Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith

Ming made its debut with the affordable and well received 17.01 – which cost only US$900 – later revived as the 17.03 for the brand’s anniversary. Both models were limited editions, but popular enough that Ming has just unveiled the 17.06, which is essentially an improved version of the 17.01. The basics like the case size and movement are the same, but several details have been upgraded. To be produced in limited numbers each year, the 17.06 retains the styling of the original model, but incorporates subtle design tweaks as well as more substantial construction changes. The 17.06 retains the raised, luminous hour track that’s a Ming signature The bezel, for instance, is now secured by screws from inside the case, making removal for polishing easier. And the hands also sit closer to the crystal. Notably, the 17.06 is the first serially produced Ming wristwatch to have a stainless steel case. According to the brand, this resulted from the steel prototypes of the 17.06 being particularly well-liked by the brand’s founders. The 17.06 is available in two guises, each priced at slightly more than the original 17.01. Both are powered by an ETA 2824-2 “top grade” that’s regulated in five positions. The 17.06 Copper has a copper-tone dial with an engraved motif, matched with a case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’ll be limited to 300 pieces a year. The 17.06 Monolith is all black – the dial is matte black while the case is sandblasted...

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Dual Aug 28, 2019

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar

If you’ll pardon the pun, Moser pioneered the development of elegant, perpetual calendars with their subtle Endeavour, which saw the month displayed using a short hand, mounted on the central pinion, and using the 12-hour markers as surrogates for the months of the year. Well, this model, the Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, sees the brand … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New moon – the Longines Master Moonphase Time+Tide
Longines Master Moonphase Aug 27, 2019

New moon – the Longines Master Moonphase

The Master collection has been a staple in Longines’ catalogue for some time, epitomising the sort of casual elegance for which the bramd is so well known. The latest member of this family - the Longines Master Moonphase - continues to offer the strong combination of timeless style and well-integrated small complications that we saw … ContinuedThe post New moon – the Longines Master Moonphase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous Aug 26, 2019

The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome

It might surprise you to learn that one of my favourite watches from this year’s SIHH show was the Dazzling Rendez-Vous from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Rendez-Vous has been a strong women’s offering for some time, but this Dazzling version really ups the ante. This is thanks largely to that outer ring of 36 diamonds, which dominate … ContinuedThe post The fully set Jaeger-LeCoultre Dazzling Rendez-Vous is fully awesome appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – John J and his Panerai 177 Time+Tide
Panerai 177 Aug 24, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – John J and his Panerai 177

The greatest love stories basically go a little like this: lovers meet and instantly fall for each other, other forces separate them and they may never be together, then the lovers are reunited and all is well in the universe. This is also the basic story of John and his Panerai 177, which should indicate … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – John J and his Panerai 177 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris Time+Tide
Oris Chronoris Editor’s note Aug 21, 2019

Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris

Editor’s note: In case you missed it, T+T HQ is located in Melbourne, which is currently rather cold. And one of the few things warming me up right now (because the office heater just isn’t cutting it) is the warm details on this funky Oris Chronoris, which, even though it’s a few years old, I … ContinuedThe post Warm up with the details on this lovely Oris Chronoris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s Dream Aug 17, 2019

In-Depth: Realising Breguet’s Dream of the Natural Escapement

Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contributions to horology are as numerous as they are fundamental. Practically every avenue of watchmaking is built on the foundations he laid down, from the perpetuelle self-winding mechanism to pare-chute shock-protection for balance pivots. But most famous of all was the tourbillon, patented in 1801. It was crucial to the precision of mechanical pocket watches and clocks, the only kinds of timepieces in use then, which normally sat in an upright, vertical position. The Breguet Souscription pocket watch of the 1990s that replicated the 19th century originals, right down to the pare-chute escapement The tourbillon, however, was not Breguet’s only effort in improving chronometric performance. Prior to the tourbillon, he created the lesser known but more elegant echappement naturel, or natural escapement, in 1789. It was a double-wheel chronometer escapement that in theory, needed no oil. Breguet managed to incorporate it into just 20 pocket watches, but serial production of the natural escapement ultimately eluded him as its design had inherent shortcomings – primarily backlash in the motion of its wheels – that made it impossible to commercialise. The idea was ahead of its time, and it would take some 200 years before technology made the natural escapement feasible. The concept of natural escapements continues to fascinate watchmakers, many of whom have conceived modern-day descendants, the most recent of which is the Ch...

Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Aug 11, 2019

Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity

As has become a tradition for Singapore children’s charity Kidz Horizon Appeal, its annual fundraising dinner will include an auction of one of a kind watches created especially for the event. Past auctions included timepieces by Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen. This year’s line-up is made up of three watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Louis Moinet, the proceeds from which will go to the charity that funds medical treatment for children from poor families. Inspired by the colours of the Greek island, the Franck Muller Vanguard Mykonos (also pictured above) is the first watch from a limited edition of 28 made for the brand’s retailer Sincere Watch, which donated the watch to Kidz Horizon. It’s a variant of Frank Muller’s popular sports watch, with a polished steel case that has an integrated strap and a white resin insert running lengthwise along its side. Inside is the FM 0800, an automatic ETA movement.  Vanguard Mykonos Commissioned by an anonymous donor, Roger Dubuis put together the Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”, based on the wristwatch inspired by Lamborghini’s V10 coupe. Ordinarily available only with a titanium case, the Kidz Horizon edition has a case made from a combination of lightweight materials: titanium for the bezel and back, and a skeletonised case middle in C-SMC carbon – the same carbon composite used in the Huracan. The red accents on the dial and bezel are also unique to ...

RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board) Time+Tide
IWC Aug 4, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board)

Some of my favourite releases from SIHH 2019 were the watches from the IWC Spitfire collection, which offers a host of twists on their classic pilot’s collection, and a few special limited editions - like the Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight”.  At SIHH we also learned more about the story of this watch, or … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The Silver Spitfire’s epic 27,000-mile trip starts today (and IWC is on board) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Aug 1, 2019

HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic

It’s easy to forget or overlook the magnitude of what Hublot has achieved with their materials innovation - the scale and scope of their sapphire pieces is impressive to say the least, and their use of ceramic is amongst the most interesting in the business (which is no small feat given that every brand and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Pop pop! The Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.