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Time+Tide
Now that the smoke has cleared, and I’ve had a moment to wrap my head around the enormity of Watches & Wonders 2023, I’ve nailed down a list of my favourites from the show. Yes, I realise my taste can be quirky, and you won’t find anything overtly dressy, blingy, or haute horology-leaning in my … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top five releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Tanner T. shares a tidy three watch collection that spans from some all-time classics, to some newcomers on the scene. There’s plenty of style here to enjoy, and even a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. Best of all, this collection could come in under budget at the right spec. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I must admit this was a challenge, not because I am spoiled for choice (which we all are these days as watch enthusiasts), but because I actually aspire to not be a collector. Wearing and enjoying a single piece day in, day out is something I pursue and practice. There’s something rewarding about a watch so satisfying and inherently capable that it requires no stablemates. Now for the rest of us who live in reality and want to experience more, here are three watches that comprise a solid trio and share unique aspects about what keeps collecting interesting. Oh, and they all fit well under five thousand of your hard-earned buckaroos. Cartier Tank Must Solarbeat ($2610 in small, $2740 in large) Cartier’s reputation as the “Jeweler of Kings and King of Jewelers” is another way of suggesting they’re your favorite watch company’s favorite watch company (the folks at Jaeger LeCoultre are gonna love that). The storied maison has been on an incredible run over the last few years with reimagined hits li...
Worn & Wound
Horage is a bit of an oddity in the watch world. Most brands build for years and years to be able to produce even a simple three-hand movement, should they even choose to go that route, and they tend to demand a high price. Horage has been working on theirs since its inception and has maintained a goal of industrialization over high prices starting with the K1, which had a silicon escapement and a modular complication system back at launch. Though it didn’t get the attention it deserved initially, it did inevitably ascend the horology ranks and prove its viability, as the K1 serves as the basis of Bremont’s ENG300 calibers. Eventually, Horage added the micro-rotor wound K2, featured in the Supersede. Another rarity, in addition to being thin, as micro-rotors tend to be, the K2 also featured modular design allowing for complications without increasing the base movement’s thickness by much, as well as a silicon escapement, 72-hour power reserve, and within chronometer accuracy. Another movement that would be impressive coming from a large luxury group, let alone an independent brand like Horage. While neither are small feats, today we’re looking at a watch with a movement that is perhaps even more impressive. The Lensman 1 features the K-TOU caliber, which is Horage’s in-house, Swiss-made tourbillon. Yes, you read that right. And the watch, despite featuring such a rare and exotic complication, comes in at under $10k. There’s a lot more to the watch as well, whic...
SJX Watches
Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...
Time+Tide
With Zach’s regularly scheduled programming interrupted by a Japan trip with Grand Seiko, I thought I’d wind you down for this week. With releases still coming in strong even after the biggest watch fair of the year wrapped up, we’ve got two releases from opposing ends of the horological spectrum. The rest is as you’d … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Naoya Hida teases new releases, Vulcain goes salmon fishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ineichen Auctioneers are renowned for promoting some of the most exciting watch auctions in the last few decades, and the upcoming Independents Auction is shaping up to shock and surprise. The focus hasn’t just been put on independent watchmakers, but specifically some of their rarest and even unique pieces that will command a lot of … ContinuedThe post T+T’s favourites from the upcoming Independents Ineichen Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
While mainstream movie buffs may be up in arms over missed Easter eggs from the Mario movie and debating whether Oppenheimer or Barbie will take the cake for the best movie of 2023, real film connoisseurs will be keen to get their eyeballs on this – The Chase for Carrera. Starring none other than the watery-eyed … ContinuedThe post Ryan Gosling commits grand theft auto in The Chase for Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The late ’90s were a simpler time when it came to activity devices. There were no smart or connected watches, just simple, straightforward timers from brands like Timex and Casio. They could time you, and even keep track of laps, but they couldn’t track you the way these things do today. If you miss devices like that, you’ll be thrilled about this latest collaborative effort between Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who are bringing back the Ironman Flix watch, complete with that sweet Indiglo dial. The nostalgia hits hard with this one, like digging up that Walkman that still works, or even the Talkboy you absolutely needed that one Christmas. Tech wasn’t afraid to have some personality back in the ’90s and early ’00s, and the original Timex Ironman Flix was no exception. The Timex Ironman Flix gets the same Ironman labeling as the original, a nod to its pedigree in helping train triathletes thanks to it’s expansive 100 lap memory (!), and memo mode where you could store some (brief) notations on your activities. This may seem paltry by today’s super high-tech smart wearable devices, but this was impressive stuff for such a small device not long ago. Further, this boils your activities down to their basics, and encourages a far more straightforward approach to working out… just doing it. The Ironman Flix is a breath of fresh air, and I should know, it was my sole running companion for a week. With every major new Apple Watch release I tend to spend a f...
Quill & Pad
Italians have the gift of making the most common object look great; they can even make a coffee grinder with enough sex appeal to make Tom Jones jealous! For a relatively small country, Italy still has quite a few fountain pen manufacturers. And Martin Green thinks that he has tried products from almost all of them. Find out here what he settled on for his personal writing needs.
SJX Watches
Last year Habring² finally delivered something collectors had long been seeking, a compact version of its signature split-seconds chronograph, which now forms the base for the Doppel 38 “Monochrome x Habring²”. A one-off that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction to benefit charity, the Doppel 38 is a collaboration between Habring² and Monochrome Watches, online watch magazine based in the Netherlands. The Doppel 38 takes its cues from the limited-edition chronograph Habring² made for the 15th anniversary of Netherlands-based Monochrome. Initial thoughts The one-off Doppel 38 is essentially a more complex version of Monochrome’s 15th anniversary edition, the Montre de Souscription 1 (MDS1), which was a conventional, single-button chronograph. Naturally the Doppel 38 sports a split-seconds movement and consequently, a slightly thicker case, but it is aesthetically almost identical to the MDS1, having the same “salmon” dial. Ordinarily, reissuing a limited edition in near-identical format is a no-no, but in this case it is both sensible and appealing because the Doppel 38 is a one-of-a-kind creation and it will be sold to benefit a children’s charity. It’s being offered with an estimate of CHF10,000-20,000 – the low estimate is approximately the retail price of the regular production Doppel 38 – which is certainly acceptable. And given the worthy recipient of the proceeds, one certainly hopes for more than the high estimate. Subtle tweaks ...
Worn & Wound
“Just a Minute” is one of our video segments where we take you through the ins and outs of some of our favorite products in just a minute! We’ve been doing this format for quite a while and our followers keep asking for more so here we are! Today, we’re taking a quick look at the “True” GMT offering from BOLDR Supply Co; the Odyssey Freediver GMT. A great piece from a trusted brand that has quite a bit to offer. “Just a Minute” is one of our video segments where we take you through the ins and outs of some of our favorite products in just a minute! We’ve been doing this format for quite a while and our followers keep asking for more so here we are! Today, we’re taking a quick look at the “True” GMT offering from BOLDR Supply Co; the Odyssey Freediver GMT. A great piece from a trusted brand that has quite a bit to offer. The post Just A Minute with BOLDR Supply Co’s Odyssey Freediver GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Coming up to Watches and Wonders, many were excited to see a new Rolex Milgauss model or an updated version of the one running since 2007. Rumours even circulated about an all-titanium Milgauss. Watches and Wonders ended, brand new Rolex models came, and the Milgauss disappeared from the brand’s website without a trace. The Yacht-Master … ContinuedThe post Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Piaget releases an e-commerce exclusive Polo Date 36mm. The novelty is in stainless steel with a midnight blue dial and leather strap.
Time+Tide
Since CODE41 released their X41 AeroCarbon back in 2020, I have viewed the independent brand as a champion for watch collectors. Since their foundation in 2016, they have pushed the boundaries of affordability by offering highly technical watches for a fraction of the big-name prices. With an emphasis on clear, honest communication about component cost … ContinuedThe post CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most compelling new releases at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Rolex Perpetual 1908, brand’s most serious take on the dress watch in decades. Elegantly sized and surprisingly thin, the 1908 is equipped with the all-new, automatic cal. 7140. Perhaps the most significant debut from Rolex in recent years, the 1908 replaces the ill-fated Cellini. Named after the year Rolex was founded by Hans Wilsdorf, the 1908 is significant not so much for what it is – a dress watch with exceptional quality of manufacture – but simply because it is the first new collection of watches from Rolex in decades. Importantly, the 1908 is the first model in the new Perpetual collection, which implies that Rolex will be introducing more watches like this in time to come. Initial thoughts In my view, the Cellini collection always felt underdeveloped. The models introduced in 2017 had potential, but they shared too much in common with their sportier siblings, both in terms of movements and dimensions, leaving them feeling too clunky to be an alternative to the entry-level dress watches from traditional haute horlogerie brands. The 1908, on the other hand, feels like a proper effort. Compared to the outgoing Cellini models, almost every detail has been tangibly upgraded to some degree. In the hand, the 1908 feels like a Rolex – the tactile feel of quality is quickly apparent. Despite being fairly svelte at 9.5 mm high, the case of the 1908 has the solidity of an Oyster case – th...
Time+Tide
In a world where heritage is often a deciding factor when it comes to credibility, Tissot’s long-standing existence is certainly a plus. The brand has never strayed from looking back at its catalogue and re-releasing a winner – the PRX is the only proof of that you’ll need – but the way Tissot intertwines their … ContinuedThe post How Tissot weaves history into their collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei and Jeremiah sit down with the Co-Founders of Atelier Wen, Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Burion, to unbox our very first collaboration with the brand they started, borne out of pure passion to champion Chinese culture and watchmaking. We are privileged to be partnering with two incredibly humble gentlemen on a project that we feel […]
Worn & Wound
As watch enthusiasts, we understand the desire to change up the look of our timepieces without breaking the bank. Thankfully, the market for third party straps and bracelets has exploded in recent years, and quick release options have made swapping them out a breeze. But sometimes, a new set of shoes just isn’t enough. Still, the options for a more dramatic swap have been somewhat limited until recently. Brands like Formex offer an inventive quick bezel swap system and Hegid offers an interchangeable case system. Still these options leave a gap at a more attainable budget. Enter Liberum, an Italian microbrand with a new modular watch system that’s both fun-focused and budget-friendly, with a project that is ending soon on Kickstarter. The watch features a modular design consisting of five different colored outer cases, one or two inner cases (depending on the package you select), and five integrated polyurethane rubber straps. These pieces seamlessly integrate with each other, allowing you to swap and combine them for 25 different color combinations. While some color combinations may work better than others, the Liberum watch lets you switch and swap until your heart’s content. Its genius lies in its simplicity: the durable TPE outer watch cases integrate seamlessly over a stainless steel inner case encapsulating the dial and movement in a sapphire sandwich, making the swap incredibly easy. To change the case and strap, all you need to do is remove the quick-releas...
The Radiomir Quaranta Steel collection brings a casual touch to one of Officine Panerai’s most classic formats. The collection is a modern interpretation of their first-ever watch, bringing the look of the legendary divers of the 1940s to contemporary, enthusiast-friendly proportions. Pared down yet commanding in presence, the Radiomir Quaranta features Panerai’s iconic details and precision reinvented in a stylish, everyday package. The new Radiomir Quaranta Steel collection is available in multiple versions, with three variants featured here: a white dial with beige Super-LumiNova® and brown strap (PAM01292), a blue dial with white Super LumiNova® and dark blue strap (PAM01293), and a dark anthracite dial with beige Super-LuminNova® and black strap (PAM01294). And starting today, Panerai has added a 4th exclusive model, a green dial and brown strap combination (PAM01386), which is an E-commerce exclusive limited to 500 pieces. Now there’s a look for everyone with colorways that perfectly complement your mood, environment, and attire. Technical details include the P.900 caliber a 4.2mm thick next-generation automatic movement, the first of its size from Panerai to combine the date, three days of power reserve, and water-resistance to 50 meters. It’s clear that this is a package geared for everyday styling and wear. The post Everyday Lookbook: Introducing The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Atelier Wen Perception has seen a few permutations by this point, initially launching as an incredibly well-priced entry point into hand-made guilloché, courtesy of the only Chinese artisan able to produce them. Though the price has risen considerably since the early bird specials, each new special edition had something unique to offer, and this … ContinuedThe post Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer is celebrating the Carrera’s 60th Birthday this year, and doing so, has released the vintage inspired 39mm “Glassbox” Carrera Chronograph at Watches and Wonders. I had the pleasure of going hands on with the watches prior to it’s release, and was quietly impressed! What We Like Great styling and designComfortable and easy to wearSizing hits the mark What We Don’t Like Leather strap could use some additional styling cuesLack of lume on the dialMovement finishing is a step up from the old, but could be better given the price point Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 8/10 No matter what you think about TAG Heuer, it’s hard to argue that they are one of the most recognised luxury watch brands in the world. Synonymous with motorsport, TAG Heuer have helped to shape the modern day chronograph, evolving the Carrera over the six decades since Jack Heuer designed and produced the very first Carrera in 1963. For those keeping track, I was not the biggest fan of TAG Heuer, and wasn’t until I reviewed the 60th Anniversary Edition TAG Heuer Autavia Flyback Chronograph (which you can check out here) around 12 months ago that I started to change my mind. The all new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm “Glassbox” TAG Heuer are having a renaissance of sorts. They are revisiting their roots, heading back to the days of Jack Heuer and what helped to make them the brand they are today. And the new Carrera Chronogra...
Revolution
Since its launch in 2020, the Czapek & Cie. Antarctique is easily one of the most impressive integrated bracelet sports chic watches in terms of construction and finishing both on its exterior and interior. This year, among other launches such as the skeletonized and titanium versions of the Antarctique, the brand has unveiled the Antarctique […]
Revolution
Eleonor sits down with Jean Arnault, Marketing and Development Director for Louis Vuitton Watches, to talk about his much anticipated initiative to discover the next generation of independent watchmakers: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize aims to raise the profile of independent watchmakers around the world that are creating watches in […]
Time+Tide
The history of timekeeping dates back to whenever the first creature wondered where the sun was in the sky, and the earliest evidence for calendars comes from Babylon and Egypt 5,000 years ago. In all that time, there haven’t been any horological events that are mentioned with as much dread as the Quartz Crisis. After … ContinuedThe post The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
On Wednesday, April 12th, Worn and Wound was invited to the G-Shock Soho Store in New York City for the unveiling of their 40th Anniversary watches. There we were introduced to a trio of watches directly inspired by the original DW-5000 the brand famously released in April of 1983. On Wednesday, April 12th, Worn and Wound was invited to the G-Shock Soho Store in New York City for the unveiling of their 40th Anniversary watches. There we were introduced to a trio of watches directly inspired by the original DW-5000 the brand famously released in April of 1983. The post G-Shock Celebrates 40 Years with New Watches and a Museum appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The SF Windup Watch Fair is closer than ever! If you’ve been following along, you know Windup is growing fast. This year, we are returning to the same venue in San Francisco and doubling the floorplan, meaning more watches, more live events, more accessories, and a whole lot more in general. There will be hundreds of watches, watch accessories, and EDC items on display to try on and purchase. You don’t want to miss it. As a reminder, here are the key event details: Terra Gallery – 511 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94105 Friday, April 28: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, April 29: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, April 30: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Here’s a sneak preview of just some of the watches from our Lead Sponsors you’ll be able to get your hands on at Windup this year. For a full roster of presenting brands, scheduled events, and a product showcase, head to windupwatchfair.com and join our email community. Accutron Accutron has built a name in innovation and exploration. Offering the world’s first fully electronic watch in 1960, Accutron changed the way the world told time. In 1962, Bulova produced the Accutron Astronaut, a 214-based GMT timepiece with a 24-hour rotating bezel, secondary 24-hour hand and hack function. Originally made for high altitude CIA spy plane missions in conjunction with emerging NASA rocket technologies, it also found commercial success. Accutron is proud to bring back the 1968 “T” version of the Astronaut model, featuring a di...
Hodinkee
Supported by some of the greatest brands and individual watchmakers today, the Espace Horloger shows how collaboration started the industry and has helped it survive.
SJX Watches
Breguet has announced a new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327. Succeeding the ref. 5327 that’s been in the catalogue almost two decades, the new ref. 7327 retains the traditional style that defines the brand while incorporating refinements and gentle modernisation in the design. Importantly, the ref. 7327 features a new perpetual calendar mechanism that boasts an elaborate retrograde display that illustrates Breguet’s sophisticated approach to movement construction. Initial thoughts The design of the ref. 7327 is quintessential Breguet and indisputably the main attraction. The orderly yet asymmetrical dial finished in guilloche, pomme hands, and the slim case with a fluted band – it is Breguet. Yet I’d be remiss not to mention the immense charm and finesse the ref. 7327 exudes. Thoughtfully executed dress watches are seldom encountered today, especially ones with svelte, just-right proportions, but this a niche that Breguet has mastered with consistency and quality. The design of the ref. 7327 is particularly interesting because it is clearly classic Breguet, but with a modern twist. The dial is slightly cleaner than old-school Breguet wristwatches, which were often elaborately, and sometimes fussily, decorated. But unlike the facelifted ref. 7337, for instance, which traditionalists might argue is too modern, the ref. 7327 is still eminently classical. Additionally, the addition of a retrograde month display at 11 ...
Time+Tide
Humans are strange creatures. We flock to what’s “hot” and turn our noses up at what’s “not” in order to feel a part of something. It happens all the time. In fashion, in cars and most definitely in watches. We stick with the hits (even when we can’t buy them!) and ignore the rest. For once … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
For La Regatta, L'Epée drew inspiration from the noble sport of sculling, in which the most beautiful crafts cut through the water like a razor-sharp knife. They are not only very fast but also barely have a wake, so they hardly disturb the water around them. L'Epee used the distinct shape of the boat and made the clock leaving all the mechanical parts visible as well.
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