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TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Guide Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Mar 19, 2024

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Guide

The TAG Heuer Carrera is widely regarded as one of the OGs of racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches, and today - decades after both the model and the deadly road race that gave it its name appeared to have been permanently discontinued - it claims a spot atop the leaderboard in the Swiss watchmaker's modern collection. Here's how the Carrera raced to worldwide acclaim, upgraded its engines along the way, and roared back from the Quartz Crisis to engage and energize a new generation of watch enthusiasts. The company we now know as TAG Heuer traces its history to 1860 and its founder Edouard Heuer; “TAG” would be added to the family business’s name in 1985, when the Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) Group obtained a majority share. From its beginnings, the company placed an emphasis on sports timing and on optimizing the precision of the hand-held and dashboard-mounted chronograph timepieces that were its specialty. Edouard Heuer’s most significant contribution to timekeeping was the oscillating pinion, patented in 1887. This device, which simplified the construction of chronograph calibers by decoupling the stopwatch mechanism from the timekeeping function, is still used commonly in movements today. In 1911, Heuer developed what is regarded as the first dashboard chronograph for cars and aircraft, the “Time of Trip,” and in 1914 released its first wrist-mounted chronograph (which, like many of its contemporaries, was a repurposed pocket watch with its sin...

Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156 Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Mar 19, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156

As you may have read on Fratello before, Seiko is celebrating the 100th anniversary of having this brand name on its watches’ dials this year. The house is introducing limited anniversary editions of new models throughout the year to commemorate this. Today, the Astron line sees a big new release, including an anniversary LE. These […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156 to read the full article.

Collector Profile: Andrew Benzer and His Prodigious “To Sell” Pile Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Mar 18, 2024

Collector Profile: Andrew Benzer and His Prodigious “To Sell” Pile

Andrew Benzer has around twenty or thirty watches he’d like to get rid of at any given time. The longtime reader and friend of Worn & Wound’s slough pile would form an impressive collection on its own, complete with grail watches like an Omega Speedmaster Professional. The watches he holds on to are even more varied and impressive. “I love watches, I love different kinds of watches,” said Andrew in an interview. “There is no other experience that’s akin to actually having something on your wrist for an extended period of time. And as a result, I have acquired probably more watches than most people would like to admit.” That collection is in the range of 60 to 70 watches and major names like Tudor, Omega, Zenith, and Grand Seiko, and smaller brands like Brew, Ming, and Halios. But like so many watch enthusiasts, for Andrew it all started with Timex and Seiko.    View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Andrew Benzer (@vintage1982benz) “My godfather gifted me a Timex for my first communion,” Andrew recalled. “And I remember just thinking it was the coolest thing in the world, it made me feel so grown up. I would wear it to school every day, I wore that thing until the plastic band basically disintegrated. And just from a very practical standpoint, I always thought a person should have a watch, you should know what time it is. This is in the 80s and 90s and well before smartphones and everything.” Timex led to Casio, Casio led to Fossil, and Fos...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - RJ’s Picks From Seiko, Hamilton, And Christopher Ward Fratello
Christopher Ward Picking three watches under Mar 18, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - RJ’s Picks From Seiko, Hamilton, And Christopher Ward

Picking three watches under €1,000 that I think are the best buys in 2024 is not easy. What I always find amusing are comments under articles that say, “This list is not valid if it doesn’t include brand X, Y, or Z.” But I understand comments like these if you’re a fan of one of […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - RJ’s Picks From Seiko, Hamilton, And Christopher Ward to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Mar 17, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. It’s time to get that extra-large coffee this morning because we have a special showdown for you! It is the battle of the Moonwatches. If you are a regular Fratello reader, you could have seen this one coming from a mile away. Today, Jorg will defend the recently introduced […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial to read the full article.

First Look – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph gets a Modern Refresh Monochrome
Glashütte Original also owned Mar 15, 2024

First Look – The Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph gets a Modern Refresh

Union Glashütte might be one of the lesser-known brands of the Swatch Group, but it is nevertheless one that has recently caught our attention, and for very good reasons. It shouldn’t be overlooked. Headquartered in the small town of Glashütte, Germany, close to sister brand Glashütte Original (also owned by Swatch), UG acts in a […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 4 - Featuring Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Zenith, And More Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Zenith Mar 15, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 4 - Featuring Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Zenith, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! We’re continuing our series of pre-owned picks that we feel deserve your attention. It’s a mix of vintage pieces and more modern watches. What they all have in common is each can be yours for a good price. In today’s market, looking at pre-owned options is a smart thing. With […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 4 - Featuring Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Zenith, And More to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Mar 15, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

IN PARTNERSHIP: Zenith has gone back to their vintage roots with a faithful re-creation of the intended design from the 70’s, and we’ve road-tested it to see if the 1970’s works in 2024! What We Love Vintage styling that doesn’t look out of place todayPracticality of the chronograph and calendar functionsThe subtle green colour that’s not in your face What We Don’t The 38mm size is a touch on the small sideLeather strap could be more detailed to suit the watchThickness when compared to the case size with the raised lugs Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Zenith came out of the blocks strong for 2024 where at LVMH Watch Week in January they went strong on their Chronomaster line. Part of these launches was the re-introduction of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in three colourways, which we covered here. The commentary and feedback from these releases were overall positive, especially amongst the collector community where vintage and sub 40mm pieces are received incredibly well. Just look at the below Instagram post from ChampsG with the comments on this. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) So when we agreed to do this hands on review, I was curious as to how I would like the green boutique edition, as quite frankly it’s not a watch I would generally gravitate towards – the Chronomaster Sport is a little more my style. But that’s what I love about havi...

Introducing – Meet TAOS, a new Brand Entirely Dedicated to Metiers d’Art Monochrome
Mar 15, 2024

Introducing – Meet TAOS, a new Brand Entirely Dedicated to Metiers d’Art

At MONOCHROME, we are always delighted to discover and present new watchmaking projects. Founded by renowned Geneva-based dial maker, Atelier Olivier Vaucher, and watchmaker Olivier Gaud, TAOS emerges as a new independent watchmaking brand dedicated to métiers d’art and artistic crafts. Each of their watches is one-of-a-kind. The brand debuts with an inaugural collection of […]

Four Rugged EDC Picks from The James Brand Worn & Wound
Mar 13, 2024

Four Rugged EDC Picks from The James Brand

The ethos of EDC is easy enough to understand; it is a relentless belief in having the right tools for the job and being prepared for anything that life may throw at you. It’s no surprise we often draw parallels between good EDC and watches we love to wear every day. The satisfaction of having good quality gear that just works is what drives our friends at The James Brand and every product. Based in Portland, Oregon, The James Brand has been making knives and other everyday carry gear for over a decade. Their focus on premium materials and attention to detail is obvious the closer you look. In this Chronicle, we look at four different products that showcase the best of what The James Brand has to offer.   As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. The ethos of EDC is easy enough to understand; it is a relentless belief in having the right tools for the job and being prepared for anything that life may throw at you. It’s no surprise we often draw parallels between good EDC and watches we love to wear every day. The satisfaction of having good quality gear that just works is what drives our friends at The James Brand and every product. Based in Portland, Oregon, The James Brand has been making knives and other everyday carry gear for over a decade. Their focus on premium materials and attention to d...

Interview – Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard on Integrated Production, Future Generations and Sustainability Monochrome
Chopard Mar 13, 2024

Interview – Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard on Integrated Production, Future Generations and Sustainability

The roots of Chopard trace back to 1860 when Louis Ulysse Chopard founded his company in Sonvilier, Switzerland. The Scheufele family took over the company in the 1960s. Under their stewardship, Chopard experienced a renaissance and evolved from a traditional watchmaking company into a globally renowned luxury brand. Chopard is a vertically integrated, family-owned company, […]

Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s titanium finishing Mar 12, 2024

Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Somehow, to this point, I’ve avoided taking a stand in the ongoing conversation in our ranks about the merits of titanium. Zach Weiss, our cofounder, is an unabashed fan, and confidently declares at every opportunity that all watches might as well be made of the stuff. Our friend Taylor Welden at Carryology takes it a step further, and said he’d happily eat little titanium chips if given the chance. No one’s titanium journey on this team has been more closely watched than Kat Shoulders’ though, who was first a skeptic, then an adopter, and now, well, her stance continues to evolve.  For my part, I guess I don’t have a strong opinion either way. I have nothing against titanium watches at all, and I’ve owned several, but it’s not, in general, a material I seek out. I think it’s because as a metal, it tends to not have the characteristics I like most. I like elaborate, complex case finishing, and a bit of weight. I tend to prefer steel’s glassy shine to titanium’s grays. There are exceptions, of course. Grand Seiko’s titanium finishing is notable in that it has many of the qualities of steel. And some watches just work better when they are feather light.  $11800 Hands-On: the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Case Titanium Movement El Primero 3600 Dial Gray Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Titanium bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 41 x 46.8mm Thickness 13.6mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $11800 The new Chronomaster Sport f...

Minase Debuts a DLC Coated Limited Edition Horizon Worn & Wound
Seiko or “G-SHOCK.” It’s Mar 11, 2024

Minase Debuts a DLC Coated Limited Edition Horizon

Of all the countries with prominent watchmaking industries, it’s possible that Japan’s is least understood. There’s a mythology around Swiss, German, and even American watchmaking that transcends any particular brand, but for many “Japanese watchmaking” is akin to saying “Seiko” or “G-SHOCK.” It’s unfair, for sure, as there are many interesting brands in the independent space making a name for themselves in Japan, and while it can be argued that Japanese brands share a certain sensibility when it comes to craftsmanship and quality, the aesthetc and design range is incredibly wide. Minase is one of my favorite examples of a brand that really illustrates this concept, as there’s a huge range within their own catalog, and they very much do their own thing while adhering to certain Japanese design and craft principles. Compare their execution of urushi lacquered dials to Seiko and you’ll begin to get the idea. Their newest release, the limited edition Horizon GEN DLC. The Horizon is a classic Minase case shape with an elongated, rectangular profile. The design is inspired by the horizon line stretching over the sea, which you really pick up in the subtle curves of the midcase. Like all Minase cases, however, this one is deceptively complex, with plenty of facets and other flourishes that make it visually interesting and appealing from every angle. The curve of the crystal, for instance, follows the curve of the case, and the case and bracelet appear on ...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge Meteorite SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 11, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge Meteorite

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is dressing up its entry-level “bridge” model with meteorite panels that flank the visible barrel and going train. The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite retains the model’s 44 mm steel case with a domed crystal and ergonomic lugs, with the centrepiece being the free-sprung balance wheel and escapement in silicon. Initial Thoughts GP’s flagship complication, historically speaking, was the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. The Free Bridge is an abbreviated, affordable take on the Three Bridge concept. Although the Free Bridge is a simple watch – it’s a two-hand timepiece indicating just hours and minutes – it has been executed fairly elaborately in terms of the movement. In that sense, the Free Bridge is similar to the Ulysse Nardin Freak X, which is not surprising since the two are sister companies. However, past versions of the Free Bridge were fairly plain in terms of design. The Free Bridge Meteorite is a bit more stylish in terms of aesthetics thanks to the meteorite panels that frame the open-worked movement. The silvery-grey tone of the meteorite is a good match for the black and grey palette of the watch. At CHF24,600, the Free Bridge Meteorite isn’t too expensive, though it isn’t the same sort of value proposition that the Freak X is. Though the two watches are similar thematically, the Freak X has a more complex movement but only costs about 10% more. The Free Bridge Meteorite would have been a similar value propositio...

Hands-On With The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph Fratello
Mar 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph

Today, we’re taking a look at the latest entry from Titoni. The Heritage Bicompax Chronograph is, as you’d expect, a vintage-inspired piece that takes its cues from historic ’50s and ’60s models. It’s clean, uses a reliable automatic caliber, and is relatively affordable. Let’s take a closer look. As a fan of vintage watches, I […] Visit Hands-On With The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph to read the full article.

New: OMEGA Launches New Speedmaster Moonwatch With Lacquered White Dial Deployant
Omega Launches New Speedmaster Moonwatch Mar 9, 2024

New: OMEGA Launches New Speedmaster Moonwatch With Lacquered White Dial

The new Speedmaster Moonwatch with lacquered white dial is a stunning addition to the iconic collection. Speedmaster Professional in white dials are usually the most coveted - consider the Snoopies, and Alaska models. A new regular production model in white dial will likely be a hit among collectors, who want a white dial Speedy for that special model look.

Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right Quill & Pad
Mar 9, 2024

Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right

Sometimes perpetual calendars are too complicated but a simple calendar just doesn't cut it anymore because nearly half the months have less than 31 days, making it five adjustments a year too many for some. But don’t fret, there is a middle ground between the most basic calendar watches and complex perpetual calendars: the annual calendar automatically adjusts for each month with 30 or 31 days, meaning just one adjustment per year for the owner in February. Here's a brief history of the complication.

Hands-On With The Zenith Pilot Automatic And Big Date Flyback Boutique Editions Fratello
Zenith Pilot Automatic Mar 8, 2024

Hands-On With The Zenith Pilot Automatic And Big Date Flyback Boutique Editions

Zenith presented a fully redesigned and thoroughly modernized Pilot range at Watches and Wonders last year. Although many of our team members had a chance to try them on at the fair, we had not yet done a full hands-on article on Fratello. We figured it was long overdue! So, now that there is a […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Pilot Automatic And Big Date Flyback Boutique Editions to read the full article.

Leica Unveils the Highly Anticipated SL3 Worn & Wound
Rolex Mar 7, 2024

Leica Unveils the Highly Anticipated SL3

Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: Leica is the Rolex of cameras. It’s a bit of a tired comparison, but it’s not an invalid one. They are each known for their impeccable build quality, a wonderful user experience, and for making beautiful objects. Both Rolex and Leica draw as much, if not more, attention to their vintage product as their modern, and each has a passionate and devoted fan base. And, at the end of the day, Leica and Rolex both make wonderful things. Today, we get to see a new wonderful thing from Leica; the SL3. The SL3 replaces the SL2 as Leica’s flagship full-frame, interchangeable lens mirrorless camera. At first blush, the new SL3 looks a lot like the SL2, but take a closer look and you’ll start to see major differences. Working from the outside in, the SL3 is smaller and lighter than the SL2. According to Leica, the SL3 has shed about 70g from its predecessor, and the overall dimensions of the camera have been shrunk down slightly. The SL3, despite these changes, remains weather-sealed to the IP54 standard. The SL3 also gets, for the first time in the model line, a tilt screen for its rear display, similar to the one the Q3 got last year. The 3.2” LED display has a slightly higher resolution than the display on the SL2 (2.3 million dots vs 2.1 million on the SL2) and the SL3 also comes equipped with a 5.76 million dot EyeRes EVF. The control layout of the SL3 has also seen a revision. Like with last year’s Q3, the introduction of a ti...

Hands-on – The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III, Traditional German Watchmaking at its Best Monochrome
Lang & Heyne Mar 4, 2024

Hands-on – The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III, Traditional German Watchmaking at its Best

Those acquainted with Lang & Heyne’s collections know the watchmaker to consistently impart a historical narrative, with each series bearing the name of a past Saxony ruler. The design of each timepiece, unmistakably German, is steeped in traditional aesthetics that reflect its inspiration. The model under consideration today draws it from the straightforward thinking of […]

[VIDEO] First Impressions: the James Lamb Origin Series Worn & Wound
Mar 4, 2024

[VIDEO] First Impressions: the James Lamb Origin Series

Writing an “Owner’s Review” is tricky. Beyond a certain unavoidable self-indulgence that goes hand-in-hand with writing about your own “stuff,” there’s the matter of when to do it. I’ve always felt that watches, being, at least in theory, objects that can be heirlooms at best, or at least live in a collection for years, or decades, are not well served by a full throated review in the first weeks or months of owning it. The truth is, sometimes (but not always) a review sample comes our way that we might possess for longer than a watch that we’ve previously given the full “Owner’s Review”  treatment. My thinking here is: what’s the rush? If I bought the watch, wouldn’t it be more interesting to provide an analysis of it a year down the road, or more? As collectors, we all understand our impressions of a watch are shaped not in days, but in months, years, and beyond.  That said, first impressions are important. And sometimes we’ll decide to purchase a watch, maybe under unusual circumstances, and have quite a lot to say about right from the jump. There should be a place for that type of analysis as well. Something that’s not quite as in-depth as the ideal long-term owner’s review, but captures that initial feeling you get during the honeymoon period with a new watch.  I recently picked up a watch by James Lamb, a UK based watchmaker who has been on my radar for the last few years, since he founded his eponymous brand. Do you ever see a watch...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Mar 3, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 75: Can Watches be Funny?

On episode 75 of A Week in Watches, we look at a handful of new releases. Things are a bit quiet right now with British Watchmaker’s Day and the Watches and Wonders looking around the corner. That said, we’ve got some cool stuff to look at, from a very dark Minase to some globe-trotting Farers to a departure for Fears and a funny Frederique Constant. This episode of a Week in Watches is presented by the all-new Tissot pr516 mechanical chronograph – based on a beloved 1970s design; this thoroughly modern reinterpretation is powered by a Valjoux hand-wound movement all for under $2,000 dollars – click here to find out more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 75: Can Watches be Funny? appeared first on Worn & Wound.

eBay Finds: A Quartz Seiko with a Surprising Name, a Gorgeous Wittnauer Chronograph, and Some of the Fanciest Lugs You’ll Ever See Worn & Wound
Seiko Mar 1, 2024

eBay Finds: A Quartz Seiko with a Surprising Name, a Gorgeous Wittnauer Chronograph, and Some of the Fanciest Lugs You’ll Ever See

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko Speedmaster Chronograph  Starting off this week with a killer vintage Seiko Speedmaster with the amazing 7A28 quartz chronograph movement. While I’m not usually a fan of quartz, you really can’t beat the 7A28 for quality, function and reliability. I don’t know how Seiko got away with usurping the Speedmaster name, but nevertheless this is a great watch. The 40mm bead blasted steel case looks unpolished, and the original bracelet with “Speedmaster” branded buckle is excellent. Dial and bezel are mint…what more can you want? Seller states it is functioning perfectly as it should. This is one that doesn’t show up all that often for auction, especially in this condition. Not one to be missed! View auction here Vintage Wittnauer Revue  From 1980s sleek quartzness to 1950s fancy dress-watchness. Here is a wild vintage Wittnauer Revue with waffle textured dial and insanely curved fancy lugs. The 22mm wide 10k yellow gold case is mint, with super sharp edges and brushed finish on the back. You really don’t see watches from this era with cases this sharp very often. And the cream dial is mint, with applied gold markers and gold hands. But man, look at those lugs...

Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300G-010 Feb 29, 2024

Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong

Five years since opening its first concept store in London, Phillips has now officially launched Phillips Perpetual in Hong Kong. Conceived as a conduit for collectors to buy and sell watches between the biannual auction seasons, Perpetual is located in Pedder Building, a 1920s Beaux-Arts style located in the Central business district. Established in 2019 with a showroom in London and led by James Marks, Perpetual is the private-sale arm of the auction house that allows clients to buy and sell anytime, instead of during the traditional May and November auctions. Perpetual operates physical stores in London and Hong Kong, along with a seasonal pop-up in Gstaad, as well as its e-commerce platform. The Hong Kong outpost strengthens its foothold in Asia, home to many of Phillips’ important clients. Something for everyone As with its London store, the Hong Kong boutique’s offerings will continually evolve. At opening, however, Perpetual in Hong Kong showcases diversity in terms of brands, complications, and styles. The flagship offering is a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G-010, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch boasting a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, second time zone, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. Another highlight is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange” in Honey Gold launched in 2010 to mark the 165th birthday of its founder. Setting it apart from the earlier Lange 1 Tourbillon is a larger a...