Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Birth-Year Watches For The Next Generation
Each of these watches came out in one of the last 18 years. Here's why we think they stand the test of time.
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Time+Tide
Right now, Chris Hemsworth is living his best watch life
“Freedom. After many ages in shackles, however golden those shackles may be, I have tasted the sweet, honeyed mead of liberation. And as sure as I am Odin’s son, I vow to never allow myself to be bound by such restraints again, though they may have a rich heritage, and are super-comfortable and attractive in … ContinuedThe post Right now, Chris Hemsworth is living his best watch life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph
The latest offering in Montblanc’s high-end chronograph lineup is the 1858 The Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. In many ways it looks and feels like the Minerva chronographs that came before it. The case remains extra-large because of the pocket watch movement within and it still has a fluted bezel along with cathedral hands. But the Unveiled Secret is totally different from its predecessors, as its movement has been inverted in order to bring the most interesting bits to the front. That required some mechanical rearrangement to accomplish, but manages to realise the desire often expressed by collectors who want to wear a watch with the finely finished movement showcased on the dial. Initial thoughts Hand-wind chronographs have been a specialty of Montblanc, at least for its high-end models, since it acquired Minerva several years ago. Minerva came along with its stable of historical chronograph movements, all traditionally constructed in an elegant, delicate manner, albeit in a slightly anachronistic manner since the calibres mostly dated to the early-20th century. As a result, Montblanc can count several impressive chronographs in its collection, but the Unveiled Secret does it differently. Though the inversion trick has been done before by other hands, the Unveiled Secret is still a little more creative and a little more interesting. It relies on a simple trick: the hands are mounted on what is ordinarily the back of the movement, while the entire mo...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm
BALL are a bit of an oddity in the hierarchy of Swiss watches, having enjoyed such a rich history but not always getting the attention they deserve. They’re not exactly a budget brand, but their prices are definitely reasonable, so they fit into a very versatile pocket of luxury. Having been updated with three fresh colour … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The New Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon
‘Tis the season for integrated sports watches, and Chopard has been in the thick of it since 2019. The brand’s Alpine Eagle sports watch landed three years ago in catalogues and has never looked back. What began as a time-and-date-only model – inspired by the evocative St. Moritz sports watch from the 1980s – eventuallyRead More
Time+Tide
MICRO-MONDAYS: The Wolkov W22 shapes up with a truly innovative design
You’ve heard of square watches and rectangular watches. Even octagonal watches are essentially common these days. With around a century of experimentation since wristwatches were popularised, there’s not a lot of room left for brands to find something truly original, and yet Wolkov have managed it across all aspects of design. There must be hundreds … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Wolkov W22 shapes up with a truly innovative design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #11 “Mastering Chronographs”
In honour of Zenith’s exhibition “Master of Chronographs” that was held at Phillips in NYC this past week, what better time than the present to ensure we understand this legendary complication. Test your chronograph knowledge in the crossword below!The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #11 “Mastering Chronographs” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial
The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way Seiko know how - with a selection of gorgeous reissues. The latest off the block … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer
EDITOR’S NOTE: Blame it on a certain Patek Philippe ad if you will, but the idea of the watch as a family heirloom passed down from father to son retains a special emotive power. Today, in many parts of the world, it’s Father’s Day and that’s a good enough reason for us to revisit D.C’s … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
4 Gold Dress Watches For The Classic Gentleman: Yes, Gold Dress Watches Still Exist. Gentlemen On The Other Hand Are Ever Rarer – Reprise
Gold dress watches sometimes seem to be on the brink of extinction, and Martin Green was almost ready to write their obituary. However, they do still exist and here he presents us with four classic gold dress watches for the consideration of the discerning modern-day, yet classically inclined, gentleman.
Time+Tide
HYT reinterpret the classic moonphase with their futuristic Moon Runner Supernova Blue
Watchmaking is a traditional art form, and its heritage often generates a strong connection between client and manufacturer. But we’re in the 21st century now, so to only create designs that are evocative of what we have traditionally seen over the last century would be a disservice. We need pioneers to revisit what it means … ContinuedThe post HYT reinterpret the classic moonphase with their futuristic Moon Runner Supernova Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Wearing The Crown, The Ressence Type 2 E-Crown (Video)
Check out The Watches TV founder Marc-André Deschoux as he explains how the personal watch of Ressence's founder, Benoît Mintiens, works in this video. Mintiens wears the Type 2 e-crown and lent it to our pal Marc-André for several weeks.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: HODINKEE Staffers Share Their Fathers' Watches
Now that we're all grown up, we – the men and women of HODINKEE – live and breathe watches. Here are the pieces we saw our dads wearing when we were impressionable little kids. It's a reminder to all you dads out there: Teach the children well!
Time+Tide
How the Rolex Submariner went from bulletproof tool watch to stone-cold classic
Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. This week it’s the Rolex … ContinuedThe post How the Rolex Submariner went from bulletproof tool watch to stone-cold classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Collection offers a fresh take on a luxury sportswatch
Cvstos don’t pop up on the radar of your average watch collector often, but the new collection of Cvstos Metropolitan PS watches is aiming to change that. The idea of a luxury microbrand isn’t all that crazy, and Cvstos aim to hone in on what customers really want from their avant-garde, high-end sports watches. The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Collection offers a fresh take on a luxury sportswatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon – Reprise
GaryG outlines why he bought a Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon, providing commentary on a collector’s mindset and the motivations, delights, and possible misgivings. And, of course, there are amazing photographs.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000
Here’s something I didn’t see coming: an entry-level automatic GMT watch from Seiko has just dropped, and it’s packing some serious GMT-Master vibes. The three colourways remind me of the modding community from the SKX message boards back in the day, where home tinkerers would modify their Seiko divers with aftermarket two-tone bezel inserts and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT delivers an automatic GMT for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Doble Luna: A Delightful (Latin) Twist On A Classic Complication
Cuervo y Sobrinos drums to its own beat. And that beat has a vibrant Latin vibe to it as the heritage of the brand is anchored in the spirit and style that made Havana one of the world’s cultural hotspots. Now headquartered in Switzerland, the Latin spirit is still present in each of Cuervo y Sobrinos’ watches, including its latest creation, the Historiador Doble Luna.
Time+Tide
Michael Fassbender follows Newman and McQueen as an actor turned racer at Le Mans
There’s a storied history of thrill-seeking actors jumping behind the wheel of a fast machine. There was Steve McQueen and his escapades on his motorbike and Paul Newman who spent decades racing in American series. They’re known as much for their acting prowess as they’re known for their love of racing. So it’s no surprise … ContinuedThe post Michael Fassbender follows Newman and McQueen as an actor turned racer at Le Mans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Undefeated Moser in a subway speakeasy and mastering chronographs with Zenith
We’ve had an action-packed week, but there were two highlights in particular. Ricardo swung by La Noxe in NYC for the unveiling of the Undefeated x Moser Streamliner collaboration, and the only thing as interesting as the watch was the space he got to see it. To anyone on the street, Ricardo was just heading … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Undefeated Moser in a subway speakeasy and mastering chronographs with Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
English Independent Garrick Introduces the S5
Having debuted an elaborately open-worked watch in 2014 and then applied its trademark style to something more basic, Garrick has just unveiled its fifth model to date, the S5. Retaining the quintessential elements of Garrick, namely a guilloche dial with Roman numerals and hands with an uncommonly large counterweight, the S5 is essentially a smaller and simpler iteration of Garrick’s earlier models, but it’s an all-new watch in a technical sense. Equipped with a new, in-house movement, the S5 sets itself apart from its predecessors with compact dimensions that make it Garrick’s smallest to date. Initial thoughts The proportions of the S5 are its primary point of appeal. It’s only 39 mm wide and 8 mm tall, making it substantially smaller than the brand’s previous offerings. Those were all 42 mm in diameter, making them too large for the largely elegant and traditional aesthetic. And the large case size also brought to mind similarly styled but less expensive watches equipped with Unitas movements. Along with the reduced size, the S5 is also the brand’s most minimalist watch so far and the first with centre seconds. Given that Garrick’s earlier models all had subsidiary seconds, the centre seconds (and the smaller diameter) makes it clear that the movement within the S5 is different. It is indeed a new calibre, albeit one that wasn’t originally constructed with a centre seconds, which requires means a secondary train was required to reposition the second...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS”
If you’ve ever been catching some public transport and spotted someone wearing a six-figure luxury watch, you know the feeling of seeing something extraordinary in an ordinary context. The Mercedes-AMG ONE is possibly the most extreme example of this concept - a hypercar using Formula 1 technology to achieve over 1000 horsepower in a street-legal … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Every Watch Tells A Story: How Borna got lucky with his Universal Genève Polerouter
It was the end of last year at the Time+Tide Club party. Drinks were poured and Santa hats were circulated. Watches were admired and discussed. There were further drinks. Impressed by the horological range on display, Andrew suddenly decided we should shoot some video of different people discussing their watches and unpacking the personal stories … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: How Borna got lucky with his Universal Genève Polerouter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet
Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...
Time+Tide
Damaged Rolex MilSub smashes estimate at auction to reinforce its grail watch status
A 1970s Rolex MilSub that had been languishing in a chest of drawers for more than 25 years has sold at auction for £155,000. The sale that took place at Bonhams, in London’s New Bond Street, comfortably smashed the estimated value of £80,000 to £120,000. The anonymous owner from Scotland, took the rare item to … ContinuedThe post Damaged Rolex MilSub smashes estimate at auction to reinforce its grail watch status appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Interview: What Can Watches Learn From Streetwear?
Eric Peng Cheng, watch mega-collector and founder of streetwear brands Bait and Undefeated, might have the answer.
SJX Watches
Furlan Marri Introduces the Ref. 2116-A “Sector” Dial Automatic
A brand that made its debut just last year, Furlan Marri is all about affordable watches with retro style – just like many of its peers that entered the business around the same time. But the brand manages to set itself apart with a keen sense for design and details, something that was evident in its inaugural model, a quartz chronograph modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463. Now the brand unveils something that’s arguably more compelling, the Reference 2116-A “Black Sector”. Once again vintage in style with compact proportions, the “Black Sector” is however automatic. Initial thoughts My first impression of the Reference 2116-A was positive. The styling is appealing and it is well priced, despite being a major step-up from the quartz chronograph in terms of case quality and the movement. In fact, the 2116-A is very well priced. It costs about US$1,250 but brings along fancy features such as artfully finished “cow horn” lugs, which is typically found on more expensive watches or actual vintage watches. At the same time, the watch is replete with retro details that collectors will like. That includes a properly proportioned dial where everything is laid out just nice, in contrast to many modern-day “sector” dial that can appear sparse. And the Breguet numerals may not be original or novel, but they are pleasing. As appealing as it is, the 2116-A still has a few shortcomings, at least for me personally. One is the wide cover for the central boss of th...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED
It’s a Tuesday night in New York City and I’m a few blocks away from Times Square. To anyone on the street, I’m just heading down a set of stairs to the subway. Instead, I’m knocking on an inconspicuous door at the bottom of the first flight of steps. It’s to a small bar called … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The blacked out H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Chronograph UNDEFEATED appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches
TAG Heuer have established themselves as the go-to brand for luxury smartwatches with each subsequent edition of the TAG Heuer Connected improving both form and function. When considering modern technology, it’s impossible to have a conversation about recent advancements without broaching the subject of NFTs and cryptocurrency. NFTs have seeped into seemingly every walk of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer CEO announces “first and best” NFT Viewer is now available on Calibre E4 Connected Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A
It is quite fitting Furlan Marri decided to name their collections “stories”. Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri knew from the outset they had many stories they wanted to tell. And by stories, I mean an effort to carefully roll out different horological visions, or chapters, with the goal of shaking up the notion of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Furlan Marri take vintage contemporary value to a whole new level with the Black Sector Mechanical 2116-A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.