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Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success
The domination of the Swiss watch industry feels like an eternal truth, especially given the age of some of the most popular brands which stretch back hundreds of years. They may have always had the upper hand when it came to high-end complications and ornate decoration worthy of royalty, but there was a period of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: How a fatal train crash became the catalyst for the Ball Watch Company’s success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
At Watches & Wonders 2022 Vacheron Constantin introduced watches in a diverse range, but sandwiched in between the artisanal decoration and complications was a new addition to the Historiques collection of vintage remakes. An unexpected launch given that Vacheron Constantin (VC) already has a luxury-sports watch in its lineup, and largely focuses on dress watches and complications in any case, the Historiques 222 was nevertheless a highlight amongst the new launches, especially given the current appetite for such watches. But the 222 is more than just something that caters to today’s fads. It is a sympathetic remake that manages to incorporate substantial, hidden improvements while preserving the look of the original – but not the feel thanks to a significantly improved bracelet. Initial thoughts As the Overseas has long matured into an established collection amongst VC’s offerings, the return of its predecessor is surprising. My initial reaction was that it is confusing to offer two different luxury sports watch models simultaneously, but it makes sense given that the 222 is a Historiques model, a vintage remake in other words. Not only does VC have a track record of reviving vintage models in style, the 222 can cater to an audience that seeks something more elegant and compact than the Overseas. It’s likely that the return of the 222 was a deliberate decision on VC’s part to create a luxury-sports watch that is different. Of the three luxury sports watches ...
Quill & Pad
John Duval: World-Class Wines From Barossa
Ken Gargett suspects that many wine lovers might be wondering just who John Duval is. However, the chances are very good that most wine lovers have indeed enjoyed wines made by John Duval as he was just the third man to be put in charge of Australia’s most famous wine, Penfolds Grange. Duval is now making sensational wines under his own name.
Hodinkee
Inside The Design: Documentary Short: How We Made HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 10
Our head of content and magazine design director share their creative process, from photography to typography – and explain all those mysterious runes on the cover.
Hodinkee
Four + One: Hello, Patek. And Hello Kitty! Her Collection Runs The Gamut From The Silly To The Sublime
Mojdeh Cutter only recently discovered the joys of collecting. Now she's making up for lost time.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style
Eschewing the influence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Letter From The Editor: Here's Why We Keep Publishing A Magazine – And Why We'd Love For You To Read It
Today we unveil Vol. 10 of our biannual print journal. Pack it in your tote bag for summer vacation. Then save it for the rest of your natural life.
Quill & Pad
Danièla And Philippe Dufour: They Like It Complicated (Video)
The Watches TV presents a follow-up video of Danièla and Philippe Dufour, marking close to a year of the two working together. Philippe expresses his joy at working with his daughter, who is in a perfect position to achieve the high level of work that the master requires for his timepieces and carry on the family name.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Just In Time For The French Open Finals, There's A Hot New Tennis-Inspired Watch To Love
The Rallymaster comes courtesy of our friends at Racquet and Maurice de Mauriac.
Time+Tide
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #9 “German Watch Manufactures”
There are definitely more than 10 of them, but for this week’s crossword let’s see how well you know German watch manufactures that deal in varying levels of price points. Good luck!The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #9 “German Watch Manufactures” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations
It’s easy to throw the phrase “museum quality” around when talking about haute horology timepieces, as a multitude of brands are capable of the high-art techniques required to earn that label. However, no matter how many time-consuming handmade techniques a brand perfects, only a brand like Vacheron Constantin are able to reproduce actual historical artworks … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hubi Hurkacz may have just lost at the French Open, but he won in wrist-wear…
While Hubi Hurkacz may have just lost in the fourth round of the 2022 French Open, he lost in style - wearing a Gerald Charles GC Sport.The post Hubi Hurkacz may have just lost at the French Open, but he won in wrist-wear… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S
The first battery-powered watch, and the one that graced the famous wrists of Elvis, Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones – still doesn’t quite sum up the Hamilton Ventura for me. Throw in a line about its military-derived styling somehow combined with stepped Art Deco-like lugs, and we’re getting somewhere. Today, the Ventura is no … ContinuedThe post Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
“Sparkling Burgundy,” Spurgles, Cold Duck From Detroit, Rene Pogel (Spell It Backwards), And Other Australian Oddities: If They Are Your Thing You’ll Never Regret It – Reprise
Effervescent red wine in Australia was originally known as "sparkling Burgundy" and is often still affectionately referred to as “Spurgles” in accordance with the country's national need to shorten every name. Ken Gargett confesses that he is a fan and shares a few of his favorites here alongside the history of this fascinating sub-genre.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Paying Tribute To Ray Liotta, Who Wears A Rolex Day-Date In 'Goodfellas'
Remembering a magnetic actor and his three gold timepieces in our watch-related movie of the week.
Hodinkee
Point/Counterpoint: The Black Bay Pro Does NOT Look Too Much Like The Explorer II Ref. 1655
Homage is the sincerest form of flattery.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Black Ceramic Royal Oak 34 mm “Rainbow”
Having devised the granular Frosted Gold finish that’s now found on several Royal Oak models, Italian jewellery designer Carolina Bucci has teamed up once again with Audemars Piguet, but on a collaboration that goes in an entirely different direction. This time it’s all about contemporary materials and aesthetics with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Carolina Bucci Limited Edition 34 mm in black ceramic with an iridescent, laser-engraved sapphire dial and a generous dose of pink gold accents. Initial thoughts Though the Royal Oak has an unmistakable identity, Ms Bucci has proven that the iconic octagonal design can be a canvas for something different. Her latest creation proves that remains true. Although this is merely a new dial, the execution is novel enough to be interesting. The dial isn’t traditional in either technique or materials – the dial is ultra-modern in fact – yet still preserves the classic Royal Oak aesthetic with a chequerboard pattern that evokes its signature tapisserie guilloche. Pairing the iridescent dial with the muted black ceramic case makes the watch even more striking, resulting in an eye-catching aesthetic despite the moderate case of just 34 mm. Still, its modernity in both style and techniques means it could be criticised as a gimmick. But that is too harsh. It’s less timeless than a traditional Royal Oak, but still a timeless design. And it is definitely chic. The hands and applied markers are pink gold, as are the nuts on the bezel R...
Deployant
New: Zenith collaborates with Phillips and Kari Voutilainen to create a masterpiece chronometer – Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire
A new and unprecedented collaboration between Philips and Voutilainen and Zenith to restore and hand decorate a batch of Zenith Calibre 135-O movements.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire
Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...
Time+Tide
Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch
The British royal family has endured another calamitous year. Prince Andrew cemented his position as a global embarrassment after settling his sex abuse case out of court, Megan and Harry polarised the nation with their self-serving interview on Oprah, and it’s barely a year since Prince Phillip died. As an institution, the monarchy appears increasingly … ContinuedThe post Swatch celebrate The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee with “How Majestic”, a colour-changing watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Teams Up With Kari Voutilainen And Phillips To Bring Its Historic Caliber 135-O Back To Life
The reborn Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire is a limited edition of 10 pieces, available exclusively through Phillips.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend
The first rule of half-arsed journalism is that if something happens twice it’s a coincidence and if it happens three times then it’s a trend. On that basis the theme of the past week has been bronze-cased watches with blue dials. Along came the Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Bronze Midnight Blue, followed in quick succession with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Bronze Pilot’s Chronograph 41 offers a grittier take on a rising trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087
The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history, as this brand with so many achievements is never short of watches to be celebrated. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The King Seiko KSK Re-Creation Limited Edition SJE087 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver
Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...
Time+Tide
Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made?
What’s the biggest difference between Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet? For me, while both manufactures embody the best of traditional watchmaking, Audemars Piguet does a far better job of re-interpreting their tradition towards modern sensibilities and bringing their creations to a younger demographic. It’s the 50th anniversary of the AP Royal Oak this year, and … ContinuedThe post Is the new AP Royal Oak Carolina Bucci Limited Edition the best rainbow watch design ever made? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Marie & Me - Hodinkee Magazine
Joe Thompson’s gripping tale of the time he asked Nicolas Hayek Sr about Breguet’s lost Marie-Antoinette Watch, and what happened next.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: The Watches We Wore To Our HODINKEE Job Interviews
'Tis the season for graduation – and (gulp) job interviews. For a little inspiration, here's what 20 of us wore when applying to work here at the Dink.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Oris takes us on a trip to the past with the Hölstein Edition 2022
In the town of Hölstein, 118 years ago, Oris was founded. Since then, the brand has been a darling of collectors, championing the idea of making watches for people of every persuasion. With mantras such as robustness, dependability and affordability, it’s no wonder the brand continues to see success. As a celebration of how far … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris takes us on a trip to the past with the Hölstein Edition 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: MB&F; LM Sequential EVO
MB&F; has just rolled out its very first chronograph, which becomes the second model in its EVO line of sports watches that began with the LM Perpetual EVO, now the brand’s bestselling watch. Christened the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, the new chronograph continues with the same aesthetic of an open dial that reveals the mechanics along with a streamlined case. The LM Sequential EVO is most interesting for its movement, which is paradoxically complicated yet simple. Developed by Stephen McDonnell, a constructor who’s been a longtime collaborator with MB&F;, the movement is a double chronograph capable of recording twin times simultaneously along with a “Twinverter” mechanism that can either operate both chronographs or invert them – a complicated endeavour. But the setup is a simple one, essentially two discrete chronograph mechanisms that operate independently but linked by the inverter mechanism. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the LM Sequential EVO when I first saw the watch. It is a big, imposing watch with sleek lines and a wide face that is filled to the edges with intricate mechanics and quadruple sub-dials packed tightly together. Despite its size, the watch wears well due to the shape and length of the lugs, while looking like a grand complication on the wrist. And once I understood that it was a double chronograph, I was even more impressed; it looks even more complicated than the top contenders in the category, namely the Lange Triple Split and Au...